Then There Was Bali

Get away from the tourist area in southern Bali.To know the soul of Bali, head north to Ubud. Ubud is Bali's heart and you can stay cheaply at any of hundreds of accommodations in town. We stayed at Hotel Tjampuhan www.asia123.com for /night. This former prince's residence is nothing short of breathtaking. Along Jalan Raya you'll find tantalizing food signs, artisan shops, rooms to let for tourists (we found one that offered very clean accommodations, private bath and breakfast for /day.)or the ubiquitous ceremony. The Balinese life is replete with ceremonies and offerings to the Gods. The women can stack foot long displays of fruit on their heads as they march in long, slow rhythm. Don't miss Monkey Road; it's an adventure in itself. Have lunch at Wayne's Café, one of the town's mainstays and the food is fabulous. Sign up for guided tours) www.indo.com/travel_agent/mandalika they run from USD30 TO USD55. See at least one Legong Dance: Ubud has them at least twice a week. Stop at any of the wood carving workshops where you can see craftsmen at work.Include a Balinese massage for about USD15. Browse Ubud's open market.

Quick Tips:

Indonesia is in the midst of a financial crisis with the rupiah hitting almost 10,000/1 USD. Charge your purchases to your credit card as you'll get a better exchange rate from your bank. If you need some cash for incidentals, go to one of the many "cambio" bureaus and shop for the best rates. Learn how to say no. You'll be accosted on beaches and shopping areas by very aggressive women. If you don't know how to bargain, learn. As a rule of thumb, offer half of what the seller is asking first go round. They expect you to bargain. Oh, DON'T DRINK THE WATER. Some hotels are kind enough to post reminders in the bathroom for you. Others won't. Be sure to get your immunizations prior to departure (check the US State Department web page for recommendations), and come equipped with first aid materials. Drugstores are a rarity in Bali, and you really don't want to start chasing around for anything in the middle of the night. Buy your saris here. Visit a rice terrace. If you're on a budget, stay away from names like Nusa Dua, Jimbaran, and Sanur.

Best Way To Get Around:

With the various methods of getting around, I much preferred hiring a private driver. I don't recommend driving yourself, since you will not find street maps in Bali. Hire a private driver and do it prior to going. You can pick up names from the internet's bulletin boards. The good ones are recommended often as you see their names pop up frequently. Avoid public transportation as it is extremely crowded, slow and hot. There is no air conditioning in public buses and you will need this whenever and wherever you travel. Walking within the town is definitely a better way to do things since you can stop as often as you like.

Check more Bali entries here:

Ubud - An Unquenchable Thirst

Ubud Unforgettable Haven

Tuban: Gateway to Bali

Bali By Bus

Regal. And rightly so, as this used to be a prince''s residence centuries ago and was turned into a hotel. It is a well-hidden secret actually, and our friends and suppliers in Ubud really did not want us to reveal this place to many people. The Tjampuhan Hotel which lies on the banks of Oos river was mentioned and we decided to drop in and check it out for ourselves. The registration area was nothing short of breathtaking. There were no windows; openness everywhere allowing us to look into an internity of green as far as the eye could see. When rain threatened to wet the overstuffed sofas nearest the elements, they were warded off by bamboo mats that were rolled down from the ceilings. We were given huge hats as selecting a room would entail going outside and climbing sinewy stone steps and walking narrow paths bordered by the most magnificent flora you could imagine. Even in the rain, it was ethereal.

Each room bears the name of a god or goddess. The architectural is quite traditional and every room enjoys a veranda set outside the double doors. There you can find settees where you can relax and just get lost in nature. All beds are made to resemble altars. Also, frangipanis or other blooms are tucked into the folds of the beds. There is a writing desk, 2 armchairs and table by the makeshift enormous window that never closes, ample closet space, nightables, and a very spacious bathroom. Every last detail is created to ensure your comfort and spiritual well being. Lotions, shampoos and the like are stored in small clay or earthenware jars. Jasmine is the predominant fragrance, and if you like, you can order massage room service. More details on that later. Meals are served on an upper floor, buffet style and are included in the price. Tropical fruit abounds; banana pancakes, the traditional goreng noodles, assorted breads and cakes, tea (Indonesian black tea is a must if you''re into tea).

This is one of the most beautiful points in Central Bali as far as the view is concerned. The restaurant was a stop on our tour after we saw the bats. We made our way up a fairly steep hill, and as we walked into the dining hall (and it is a hall), the entire facility is surrounded in glass so you have an unadulterated view of Bali below. It's an incredibly clever and strategic location for a restaurant, and there is a hotel facility as well.

The food was served buffet style, and it was mostly Indonesian with the usual satays, goreng noodles, rices, fruits, salads and desserts. Even though it was a self-serve situation, there were some waiters around who would bring us beverages or remove dirty plates so that you could fill up again, provided you could. We were the only ones in the place, and our bus tour practically filled it. On one side of the restaurants, you could see the terraced rice fields backed by moutains; on the other side, you could see lush vegetation, palm trees, flora as far as your eye would take you. The day was perfectly clear. We were about 800 meters above sea level here and both Chuck and I were eager to get through with the meal and check out the scenery outside.

Once outside, we encountered a young boy and girl, whom we mistakingly took to be sister and brother. He was begging and pleading for some money, and she was pushing him away, and saying she wanted some. We didn't have any coins, but thought they could split a 500 rupiah bill between the 2 of them. Grave error: the boy took off like a bat out of hell, and I cannot describe the look of pain on this girl's face.

Then we went to the rice field side where I snapped a couple of pictures, and we met some people from the kitchen who were extremely intrigued with the digital camera. They were total hams, and loved posing for us. Then Chuck tried to instruct them how to take a photo; at first they thought it was a video camera, and started moving with it. We had to mime the whole thing through for them, and it was great fun because they finally got the hang of it! We found the interractions to be very rewarding, as the smiles are totally genuine. This is actually not a bad place to stay as I wouldn't mind in the least waking up each morning to this formidable setting. Worth the trip up.

I read about Wayan's Café on internet bulletin boards while I was gathering information for this trip. The name came up very often as one of the best places to eat in Ubud, and that's an understatement. Aside from being one of the best restaurants in Ubud, the decor of this place is almost surreal. When you enter the "dining area", you are actually making your way through a forest, and the garden beds surround eating areas; some are on the floor with pillows, and others are Western style with caned chairs and tables. We chose the floor version as it looked so much more inviting. We had young servers tending to our needs; the food was served in beautiful porcelain containers or banana leaves. It was hard to concentrate on either the food or the atmosphere as both provided an overwhelming experience.

They say that this is one of the oldest cafes in Ubud. It opened in 1977 by Wayan Kelepon as a small warung; in 1987 Wayan, the owner of this cafe, decided to expand her growing business and she is reputed enough to have earned reviews in major guide books, the Jakarta Post, Garuda Inflight magazine, Cathay Pacific Discovery magazine, Food and Wine, and Bon Appetit. Her "Death By Chocolate" cake has a following. We went native and had the warm black rice with coconut milk, and that was divine. You can see in the photos how beautiful the presentation is. You MUST stop and eat here if you are in Ubud.

We did not plan to eat at Lotus; we just happened on it. This was during one of the several foot excursions that Chuck and I embarked on while in Ubud. You cannot appreciate the beauty of the restaurant until you are well inside. We were there for lunch. It's quite busy and informal. We were seated right in front of a huge lotus pond, with a temple sitting atop a brick wall. On our right hand side (picture this, because the restaurant has no back wall)we have a craftsman hammering away at something he's creating.

The menu includes the native goreng dishes (vegetable fried noodles), different satais (those are safe to eat at reputable restaurants; be careful if you land at a self-serve type of eatery). A number of creations to tantalize the palate, but we insure with our servers that none will burn the roof of our palates.

We are both gazing at this expanse of lotus floating on tranquil water; even though it's cloudy, it's an amazing vista to behold. You can have Balinese Kopi (coffee) if you wish, or end your meal with tea. Chuck sampled and approved the local beer. By Western standards, the service is quite slow, but if you are in a hurry, get off the island. We are sharing our appetizers, something very similar to the Indian samosas.

Chuck seems to have lost all his inhibitions about local fare, and is no longer sniffing his food. Although we had been warned not to eat raw salads, the salad they serve us is crackling fresh. Again, exercise caution and be more careful when patronizing off the beaten paths warungs (cafés). The decor at Lotus is very tropical and the tablecloths are white with green and red flora. My memories of Lotus Café are less about the food and more about the locale.

Most Balinese live in traditional villages outside cities like Denpasar, Ubud and the like. The village itself is a microcosm of life, almost self-sustaining. Buildings and temples are placed in very specific relationships to the mountains and the sea (a kind of feng shui, if you will). Each commune has its temples, its living quarters and its graveyard. Although cremation is de rigueur in Bali, most villagers cannot afford to pay for this rite of passage. It may take a lifetime for the average Balinese to save sufficiently for his own cremation. Although our tour guides did not encourage us to wander off, Chuck and I made our way into one of the very neat and clean bungalows and we were welcomed by young women who were selling their own handmade crafts. I picked up a wonderful wooden sculpture and was glad to part with my rupiahs as they went directly into the pocket of the villager. The rest of the people on the tour were not far behind us and caught on. We also walked into the women's area where the cooking and drying of rice is done. The simplicity of their living quarters is another reminder of our own excesses. One of the women unpretentiously opened the door to her bamboo/rattan sleeping quarters to reveal two perpendicular paper thin mattresses. She took me by the hand to show me her cooking pots that were neatly stacked on a table, on the side of her room. By the way, if you are going to touch anyone in Bali, do it with your right hand, as the left is considered unclean. Also, don't touch anyone on the head.

There is a sense of orderliness in the village, and it pervades the atmosphere. As I held a baby in my arms, to the utter delight of her mother and sisters, I realized the child never cried or whined or displayed a bad temper. It was sheer joy as we were expressing ourselves in gestures and short words of our own vernaculars, and seem to understand one another perfectly.

Mas lies southeast of Ubud. Its name means "gold" and how very appropriate. It is reputed for having master carvers, and we were privileged to see them at work. These carvers learn the craft from their progenitors at a very young age, and the technique must be etched into their minds, since they use tools and wood without any sketches, diagrams or directions. Our guide told me that they start at a very young age. Watching the deftness of their fingers and hands is almost trancelike. One man has tackled an entire tree trunk and eventually will give it life as a dolphin. We see a finished piece next to him. It's awesome.

The carvers work outside; inside there is a multi chamber gallery, or show place; it's hard to decide what to call it. Some of the smaller, less costly pieces made of soft wood can be gotten for a mere pittance. The really beautiful, intricately carved pieces begin to show in the second anteroom, and they are all perched on glass shelving.

Ebony is a very popular wood, as are sandalwood and jackfruit. While in the past the carving was strictly geared toward religious figures, however, now the lure of export dollars has produced figures that have mass appeal. On the more playful side, we later were able to visit one of the many large art shops in Ubud that display very colorful wooden lotus, banana trees, hibiscus and other flora. One often wonders how it is that these craftsmen make any money; they are all making the same products and are usually in clusters along the same main road.

Pura means temple in Balinese. Besakih is considered to be the biggest and holiest temple in Bali, and has been dubbed the "Mother Temple" of Bali. It is over 1,000 years old. This sanctuary is made up of 30 separate temples situated on seven terraces up the hill, Mt. Agung, Bali's highest mountain at 10,308 feet.

Mt. Agung is considered to be the abode of Mahadewa, also known as the God Shiva. Thus it reigns as the most sacred to the island's Hindus. At last count, there were at least eleven thousand temples in Bali, and not all of this magnitude, but include medium and small sized structures. You will realize on this and other visits to Balinese temples, that none are closed buildings, but rather rectangular courtyards open to the sky, bordered by rows of shrines and altars which are dedicated to various gods. The shrines themselves are not sacred to the Balinese, but rather the spirits which occupy them. Strict adherence to the laws of traditional Balinese architecture dictate the exact dimensions of a pagoda (meru), how it is to be made, and which woods to use for which parts.

The most impressive thing about Pura Besakih is its size and the aura it projects, even when you are not on its grounds. It is a bit eerie in its beauty; the inner courtyard at the center is off limits to visitors (as it is considered the most sacred), but you can get a fairly good look from several vantage points around the temple. It seems trivial to mention that you will also find incredibly beautiful heliconias in some areas of the temple, but I am a nature lover, so there you have it.

We are on one of the famed bus tours, this one conducted by Panorama Gray. As we approach Alas Kedaton, also famous for its temple, we are warned about the monkeys and their antics. Monkeys are regarded as sacred in Bali and there are 3 distinct monkey forests where they are at liberty to live and breed. This will also mark our first encounter with fruit bats which are deemed harmless. There is a tourist market in Alas Kedaton, and all of this is coordinated very carefully. Each couple on our tour is shown into the monkey area by a young female guide. She will walk you through the park so that you can first purchase food for the monkeys, and subsquently amuse yourself feeding them. Actually, I decidedly had fun with this; I found them so cute and ever so human in their demeanor. At one point, I had a mid-sized primate land on my shoulders, catching me unaware, and in a valiant attempt not to frighten the animal, I opened my mouth in the form of a silent scream. (Picture Van Gogh's painting, the Scream, and you get the idea). Chuck, as usual, is busy taking photos and enjoying the spontaneity of the whole scene. I later realize that he's actually frightened of our 4 legged cousins, as he does everything to avoid contact with them.

After the tour, our lady guide takes us to her stall so we can purchase something. Do not attempt to tip your "guide". She expects that you will spend your money at her stall when you are done. By the way, you can also feed the bats if you are brave enough.

The Balinese are proud and accomplished builders. Despite the influx of Western influence by way of tourism, they have managed to maintain traditional design which serves to perpetuate its existence. Traditional Balinese architects are called "undagi" and it is reported that they consult ancient manuscripts which provide the guidelines they follow. For example, the Balinese roof is one which is constructed with bamboo, rattan and is almost always tapered to a pointy end. Doors and furnishings are elaborately carved to evoke the splendor of their temples. One of the most fascinating places to witness carving at its best is Mas. This is a mainstay stop on any of the island tours. In the corridors of the Holiday Inn Bali Hai were several, magnificent woodcarvings of the goddess, Saraswati. She is purported to be the goddess of art and science, others shorten it to just "knowledge". She has four arms, and is sometimes seen with a string instrument. The day we arrived in Bali was her day. It is celebrated once every 210 days which is the length of the Balinese calendar.

Balinese architecture makes use of natural elements in most commercial constructions, erecting them amidst spectacular foliage, big stones and boulders which support cascading waters that house fish. Once in a while, a Dunkin Donut stand will rise above the sidewalk in mockery of the splendor around it. I found a very strong connection between places like theBesakih Temple and the elements of our room in Ubud. Let us hope that materialism and greed which have been brought about by tourism does not rob Bali of its magical characteristics.

I bet you've never seen a bat eat a banana. Our tour guides actually had an excellent idea to stop on this roadside rest area, which had a small drink stand, restrooms, chairs and tables that were carved out of tree trunks and what seemed to be two resident bats that welcomed the tourists and were quite friendly. I never thought I'd talk about bats in this fashion, but they don't look so inviting when you see them in their sanctuaries.

What was interesting about this creature, after I got over the shock that we were both at eye level, was the fact that he/she could eat a banana upside down. It's not terribly practical for the bat because he/she needs his limbs to hang onto something, but also makes use of them to place nourishment in his/her mouth. Let's make this bat a male, OK?

By the way, if you don't want to scrutinize the bat activity, you can look at the pineapples growing on the side of the road and further down are more rice paddies that extend ad infinitum. I was fascinated with this animal, and only if you experience it can you understand the curiosity.

Some folks were timid at first, others took their 35 mm cameras and started shooting from all angles. The bat, undisturbed, was chewing. These bats usually hang out in low ceiling areas so they can get to the fruit trees. They are not the same as the ones to be found in that eerie batcave called Goa Lawah, which we didn't visit. It's supposed to be quite impressive and the cave itself is considered holy by the Balinese.

The bats are also thought to be instrumental in the propagation of fruit seeds and they serve as dinner for the region's snakes.