Then There Was Bali

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Ubud - An Unquenchable Thirst

Ubud Unforgettable Haven

Tuban: Gateway to Bali

Bali By Bus

Each room bears the name of a god or goddess. The architectural is quite traditional and every room enjoys a veranda set outside the double doors. There you can find settees where you can relax and just get lost in nature. All beds are made to resemble altars. Also, frangipanis or other blooms are tucked into the folds of the beds. There is a writing desk, 2 armchairs and table by the makeshift enormous window that never closes, ample closet space, nightables, and a very spacious bathroom. Every last detail is created to ensure your comfort and spiritual well being. Lotions, shampoos and the like are stored in small clay or earthenware jars. Jasmine is the predominant fragrance, and if you like, you can order massage room service. More details on that later. Meals are served on an upper floor, buffet style and are included in the price. Tropical fruit abounds; banana pancakes, the traditional goreng noodles, assorted breads and cakes, tea (Indonesian black tea is a must if you''re into tea).

The food was served buffet style, and it was mostly Indonesian with the usual satays, goreng noodles, rices, fruits, salads and desserts. Even though it was a self-serve situation, there were some waiters around who would bring us beverages or remove dirty plates so that you could fill up again, provided you could. We were the only ones in the place, and our bus tour practically filled it. On one side of the restaurants, you could see the terraced rice fields backed by moutains; on the other side, you could see lush vegetation, palm trees, flora as far as your eye would take you. The day was perfectly clear. We were about 800 meters above sea level here and both Chuck and I were eager to get through with the meal and check out the scenery outside.

Once outside, we encountered a young boy and girl, whom we mistakingly took to be sister and brother. He was begging and pleading for some money, and she was pushing him away, and saying she wanted some. We didn't have any coins, but thought they could split a 500 rupiah bill between the 2 of them. Grave error: the boy took off like a bat out of hell, and I cannot describe the look of pain on this girl's face.

Then we went to the rice field side where I snapped a couple of pictures, and we met some people from the kitchen who were extremely intrigued with the digital camera. They were total hams, and loved posing for us. Then Chuck tried to instruct them how to take a photo; at first they thought it was a video camera, and started moving with it. We had to mime the whole thing through for them, and it was great fun because they finally got the hang of it! We found the interractions to be very rewarding, as the smiles are totally genuine. This is actually not a bad place to stay as I wouldn't mind in the least waking up each morning to this formidable setting. Worth the trip up.

They say that this is one of the oldest cafes in Ubud. It opened in 1977 by Wayan Kelepon as a small warung; in 1987 Wayan, the owner of this cafe, decided to expand her growing business and she is reputed enough to have earned reviews in major guide books, the Jakarta Post, Garuda Inflight magazine, Cathay Pacific Discovery magazine, Food and Wine, and Bon Appetit. Her "Death By Chocolate" cake has a following. We went native and had the warm black rice with coconut milk, and that was divine. You can see in the photos how beautiful the presentation is. You MUST stop and eat here if you are in Ubud.

The menu includes the native goreng dishes (vegetable fried noodles), different satais (those are safe to eat at reputable restaurants; be careful if you land at a self-serve type of eatery). A number of creations to tantalize the palate, but we insure with our servers that none will burn the roof of our palates.

We are both gazing at this expanse of lotus floating on tranquil water; even though it's cloudy, it's an amazing vista to behold. You can have Balinese Kopi (coffee) if you wish, or end your meal with tea. Chuck sampled and approved the local beer. By Western standards, the service is quite slow, but if you are in a hurry, get off the island. We are sharing our appetizers, something very similar to the Indian samosas.

Chuck seems to have lost all his inhibitions about local fare, and is no longer sniffing his food. Although we had been warned not to eat raw salads, the salad they serve us is crackling fresh. Again, exercise caution and be more careful when patronizing off the beaten paths warungs (cafés). The decor at Lotus is very tropical and the tablecloths are white with green and red flora. My memories of Lotus Café are less about the food and more about the locale.

There is a sense of orderliness in the village, and it pervades the atmosphere. As I held a baby in my arms, to the utter delight of her mother and sisters, I realized the child never cried or whined or displayed a bad temper. It was sheer joy as we were expressing ourselves in gestures and short words of our own vernaculars, and seem to understand one another perfectly.

The carvers work outside; inside there is a multi chamber gallery, or show place; it's hard to decide what to call it. Some of the smaller, less costly pieces made of soft wood can be gotten for a mere pittance. The really beautiful, intricately carved pieces begin to show in the second anteroom, and they are all perched on glass shelving.

Ebony is a very popular wood, as are sandalwood and jackfruit. While in the past the carving was strictly geared toward religious figures, however, now the lure of export dollars has produced figures that have mass appeal. On the more playful side, we later were able to visit one of the many large art shops in Ubud that display very colorful wooden lotus, banana trees, hibiscus and other flora. One often wonders how it is that these craftsmen make any money; they are all making the same products and are usually in clusters along the same main road.

Mt. Agung is considered to be the abode of Mahadewa, also known as the God Shiva. Thus it reigns as the most sacred to the island's Hindus. At last count, there were at least eleven thousand temples in Bali, and not all of this magnitude, but include medium and small sized structures. You will realize on this and other visits to Balinese temples, that none are closed buildings, but rather rectangular courtyards open to the sky, bordered by rows of shrines and altars which are dedicated to various gods. The shrines themselves are not sacred to the Balinese, but rather the spirits which occupy them. Strict adherence to the laws of traditional Balinese architecture dictate the exact dimensions of a pagoda (meru), how it is to be made, and which woods to use for which parts.

The most impressive thing about Pura Besakih is its size and the aura it projects, even when you are not on its grounds. It is a bit eerie in its beauty; the inner courtyard at the center is off limits to visitors (as it is considered the most sacred), but you can get a fairly good look from several vantage points around the temple. It seems trivial to mention that you will also find incredibly beautiful heliconias in some areas of the temple, but I am a nature lover, so there you have it.

After the tour, our lady guide takes us to her stall so we can purchase something. Do not attempt to tip your "guide". She expects that you will spend your money at her stall when you are done. By the way, you can also feed the bats if you are brave enough.

Balinese architecture makes use of natural elements in most commercial constructions, erecting them amidst spectacular foliage, big stones and boulders which support cascading waters that house fish. Once in a while, a Dunkin Donut stand will rise above the sidewalk in mockery of the splendor around it. I found a very strong connection between places like theBesakih Temple and the elements of our room in Ubud. Let us hope that materialism and greed which have been brought about by tourism does not rob Bali of its magical characteristics.

What was interesting about this creature, after I got over the shock that we were both at eye level, was the fact that he/she could eat a banana upside down. It's not terribly practical for the bat because he/she needs his limbs to hang onto something, but also makes use of them to place nourishment in his/her mouth. Let's make this bat a male, OK?

By the way, if you don't want to scrutinize the bat activity, you can look at the pineapples growing on the side of the road and further down are more rice paddies that extend ad infinitum. I was fascinated with this animal, and only if you experience it can you understand the curiosity.

Some folks were timid at first, others took their 35 mm cameras and started shooting from all angles. The bat, undisturbed, was chewing. These bats usually hang out in low ceiling areas so they can get to the fruit trees. They are not the same as the ones to be found in that eerie batcave called Goa Lawah, which we didn't visit. It's supposed to be quite impressive and the cave itself is considered holy by the Balinese.

The bats are also thought to be instrumental in the propagation of fruit seeds and they serve as dinner for the region's snakes.