Road Trip to Las Vegas and Beyond

This year we traded our timeshare week for a week in Las Vegas. We knew Vegas was a city of contrasts where a few blocks from the glitz is a near barren desert wasteland. Both aspects contrast with our central Iowa home. At home in early May, it is a riot of blooming trees, early blooming wild flowers, and carefully tended border plants. With this in mind we set off on our 24-day adventure of exploring a whole different world of colors, plants, and terrain.


In 1820 government sponsored explorations labeled all of the Great Plains and the American Southwest as the Great American Desert that would not support life. Our trek included the states of Iowa, Nebraska, Wyoming, Utah, Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, and Missouri. Except for the first and the last mentioned, these states all were/are identified as desert. It’s amazing what people have been able to do with it since then!

The major highlights of the road trip would be the canyons of Utah and Arizona, Flagstaff, Sedona, Albuquerque, Las Cruses, El Paso, Fredericksburg, and Dallas. We enjoyed nature’s beauty, some terrific museums, good shopping, and food—we also visited friends and relatives. Las Vegas, our primary destination will be covered in another journal (Nothing Vague about Vegas).

Quick Tips:

Our favorite type of travel is by automobile. We control the pace and where and how long we stay at a place. We have learned to set realistic driving distances. Our theory is to avoid bone-numbing fatigue, we don’t spend more time behind the wheel than we would have spent sitting at a desk at work. (9am to 5pm with coffee breaks and lunch.) Evenings are negotiable. Usually we look for our supper at a local favorite restaurant. Then read ahead in guidebooks…and of course my husband monitors the weather channel.

Best Way To Get Around:

When people in El Paso want a really good steak meal they drive 30 miles Southeast on Interstate 10 to the Fabens exit, then drive 5 more miles through the desert to Cattleman’s Steakhouse at Indian Cliffs Ranch. It is worth the drive…and bring the whole family. Besides the restaurant, guests can go on a hayride, see the sites where movies have been filmed, or visit the "zoo".

We came for the restaurant where they serve huge choice aged steaks with side dishes of coleslaw, Texas style baked beans, breads, and baked potatoes that could be a meal by themselves. The menu also includes seafood. Decorated in Western style the rambling restaurant has several large rooms indicative of periodic additions. From our table we had a view of the peacock perch… that was colorful.

There is a small souvenir shop where you can buy the special ingredients that make these steaks so tender and flavorful.

A restaurant waitress and a motel clerk both told me that Cedar Breaks National Monument would not be open for visitors before June, due to snow. Both women assured me that the drive up Highway 14 to the park entrance was well worth the time anyway, and it was free—they were right. We found several wide spots in the road and a couple of legitimate parking lots where we could get out and admire the scenery. The most outstanding view was a cliff formed from several shades of pink rock. Some snow remained highlighting this rugged beauty. The rocks are soft in this area, bands of sandstone and other sedimentary rocks. At one overlook we could see how the fast moving river was opaque with the load of eroded rock.

Mid-June through mid-October the Visitor Center is open 8am to 6pm. The entrance fee is $4 per person and it is good for 7 days. At over 10,000 feet elevation, it is chilly even in summer. Hiking trails are the primary activities along with Ranger talks.

About 20 miles south of Cedar City is a much-ignored part of Zion National Park. This site is Kolob Canyons, a series of almost parallel canyons. There is one major overlook and several places along the road to stop for a safe look at the scenery. The Visitors Center is small and primarily filled with souvenir books and postcards. The fee is $10 per person, or no charge with a current Zion pass, or use your National Parks pass. The undiscovered quality of this park is a bonus; you have great views without fighting the crowds. One bad feature is you must return to the Interstate and then drive a 38-mile loop via Highway 17 and Highway 9 to reenter Zion National Park at the Springdale entrance.

By the time we reached Springdale it was lunchtime. Good luck took us to the Spotted Dog Café, 428 Zion Park Boulevard. We arrived in time for a late breakfast. There were six or eight unique offerings on the menu of this small upscale restaurant. I had a spinach and wild mushroom omelet, with fried potatoes—like my Dad used to make. My husband had pork loin and grits with maple syrup, eggs, and toast. The coffee was rich and not bitter. Yum! The view from the tall windows was of rock formations, trees, and semi-rustic buildings. Breakfast for two was $32.

After our long and enjoyable lunch we tried to storm the gates of the national park. A ranger walking down the road greeted us and told us to park the car and wait for a shuttle. After a very short discussion my husband made a U-turn and we left Zion. This excursion was not planned well on our part. We thought we would be able to do a short drive into the park, and then head for Vegas. You can’t do that on a shuttle. Our plans for a future visit would be to stay in a motel/hotel in Springdale. Then we would be up early enough to gain entrance to the park for a carefree tour. The scenic drive to Springdale and back to the Interstate reminded us of many cowboy movies we saw as kids at the Saturday matinee or on early TV shows.

In a forest of Ponderosa Pines, adjacent to a lumber mill, stands a unique duplex. This 1904 built 40-room mansion of more than 13,000 square feet was built for the families of Timothy and Michael Riordan (two brothers and business partners). It is furnished with many pieces of Stickley and Harvey Ellis furniture. The decorations, wall coverings, drapes, murals, paint colors are all consistent with the Craftsman style. Who would have thought that this Arts and Crafts gem would be found in the Southwest? It is furnished with many pieces of Stickley and Harvey Ellis furniture. The two house sections are connected with a room that the family called "The Cabin". It was the site for parties, play time, entertaining the community, and sad occasions such as funerals. The brothers had married sisters and also made a home for their mother-in-law and a maiden sister. Members of the family lived in all or part of the double house until 1985. The eastern half of the house was donated to Arizona State Parks complete with furnishings. After the last relative who lived here died, the west half was also donated. Many of its furnishings had been distributed previously. We toured both floors of the east house and admired its unique features such as: skylight ventilation system in the Reception Hall; the Inglenooks that provided a cozy spot by the fireplace to warm up when you came inside in the winter; the porch swing in the living room that would face fireplace or windows depending on the season; the dining room table shaped to promote conversation; the window seats and bookshelves that lined the living-room and office; and the six door icebox in the kitchen. The west house tour was of the main floor only. Display boards were set up in these rooms for more in-depth information. Three differences I noticed in the two homes. West had decoratively carved wainscoting on the walls. East had an oval shaped dining room, while West had a rectangular one to accommodate the larger family. West had glassed over the ventilation, skylight between floors. Our Ranger thought there had been a fire on that side and it was feared the ventilation system helped spread the fire. Our ranger guide supplied us with a wealth of information and family stories. More information is available in the visitor’s center and the gift shop has a nice selection of souvenirs. Admission was only $6. Summer hours are 8:30am to 5:00 pm. Winter hours are 11:00am to 5:00pm. Allow at least an hour for the tour.

Located north of Flagstaff on Highway 180, this spacious museum of eight exhibit galleries educates the public about the Colorado Plateau. This area encompasses the Four Corners region and the Grand Canyon. The galleries featured are archaeology, ethnology, a Hopi kiva, jewelry, fine arts, a special exhibit of spectacular photography, another special gallery exhibit of Hopi and Zuni katsinas dolls, and geology.

Docents wander the galleries and answer questions or as was our experience, just strike up conversation when they notice someone is interested in an item. We learned from one docent that cliff dwelling ancient tribes had a life span of only about 27 to 30 years. This was due in part to the way they ground their corn for meal. They used sandstone grinders, consequently they ate a lot of rock. That wore their teeth down and when you can no longer chew and soft food wasn’t available…you die.

It was interesting to see the evolution of crafts and arts such as basketry, pottery and jewelry making. The reception room and the courtyards charmed us. The Book Store and the Museum Shop are well stocked and have informed personnel. Only non-flash photography is allowed in the museum. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors, $3 for students, and $2 for children 7 to 17.

Fourteen miles south of Flagstaff, on the scenic Highway 89A, we turned into the Oak Creek Canyon Overlook. First we walked to the overlook and admired the scenery. This is the smart thing to do, because when you continue on Highway 89A, it drops down into the canyon by way of some dramatic switchbacks. No stopping there to take pictures. These canyon walls are in the colors of beige and greys, but as you approach Sedona the rocks are very red. On the way back to the parking lot stop at the tables set up along the walkway. This is the site of the Authentic Native American, arts, crafts, and jewelry. Under the shade of umbrellas, you can visit directly with the artists. The items I looked at were all signed by the artist.

There are two things you should know about Sedona. First it is beautiful. Second they want you to buy something beautiful to take home with you. I guess a third thing you should know is they want you to eat well. 

Six thousand years ago, Native Americans lived in this area. Even in these desert conditions they grew beans, corn, and squash to survive. Between 1870 and 1900 homesteaders arrived. The new community was named after the postmaster’s wife. As the town grew and seasonal guests frequented the area, artists and crafts people were attracted to the area. For a town of only 21,000 there are a lot of galleries, gift stores, and good eating.

The red rock formations that can be seen in every direction have been given imaginative names such as: Elephant Rock, Steamboat Rock, Chimney Rock, Coffee Pot Rock, Sugar Loaf, Cathedral Rock, and there is even one named Snoopy. Ponderosa Pines also add to the beauty of the area.

If you weary of shopping, go to Slide Rock State Park and play in the creek.