Singapore, Again

Haw Par Villa is just a short walk from our condo in Pasir Panjang. Built by the two brothers who made their fortune from Tiger Balm, the park contains a set of scenes from Chinese mythology, telling moral tales and depicting, very graphically, what happens to those who fail to live up to the standards of conduct expected of them.

None of the scenes are more graphic than the ten courts of hell. Passing by the fierce looking, bulging-eyed horse and bull that guard the entrance (quite why one needs to guard the entrance to hell is beyond me), and the place of judgement just inside, you soon find what happens for each misdemeanour. You’ve been disrespectful to your elders? Your heart is cut out. Not paid your tax? You’ll be pounded by a stone mallet. Shown a lack of filial piety? Depending on which of the ten courts you are in, you’ll be ground by a large stone or have your intestines and organs pulled out. And don’t expect any mercy—those charged with carrying out the punishments seems to be taking great delight in their work.

Mind you, being ground by a large stone also applies to those who have been disobedient to their siblings. As the oldest of four, I’ll have to mention that to my sisters and brother. It might not make a difference, but at least they’ll have been warned.

So, did you remember Father’s day? If not, I suggest you do something about it as soon as possible.

There are not too many options in Singapore for escaping the city and walking. The adjacent areas of MacRitchie Reservoir to Bukit Timah are the easiest to get to, while the Sungei Buloh nature reserve is another good bet.

MacRitchie has a 10.5km track running around it. It’s mostly shaded by trees and a popular destination at the weekend for walkers and runners. There’s a good chance you’ll see Long-tailed Macaques or a Monitor lizard and there are plentiful butterflies. The birds are more difficult to spot—you can hear them but you often don’t see more than a glimpse as they move through the trees.

The canopy walk at the northern end of the reservoir takes you through the tree tops, high above the path below. It’s worth a visit, although I’ve never seen any wildlife from it.

At 163m in height, Bukit Timah is the highest point in Singapore but don’t go there for the view, as there isn’t one. The main track up the hill can be very busy at the weekends, but there are several different paths around the hill that are much more rewarding. I still don’t understand why so many people walk down the hill backwards and I’ve not been tempted to try.

In the weeks leading up to the invasion, the Japanese troops had swept down through peninsular Malaysia. They quickly took the north of the island and by the time they had reached the Ford factory the outcome was inevitable. The British signed the surrender and Singapore became known as Syonan for the next 3 years.

The museum tells the story of the build-up to the invasion, the invasion itself, life under the Japanese, and the subsequent surrender of the Japanese in 1945. It was a turbulent and sometimes brutal time, depicted in the museum in photos, text, and first-hand accounts, together with an audio-visual presentation that we didn’t see. It’s well worth a visit.

The wealth of Singapore attracts many people from elsewhere in Asia, coming to earn money that they can send home, often construction workers and maids. A short-term visitor to Singapore may pass through completely unaware of the number of maids here, and the role maids play in the country.

Mainly from the Philippines and Indonesia, maids are employed by many households to run the home or look after the children. They’re a constant source of debate here—and quite rightly so. The attached photo, taken outside a shopping centre at the end of Joo Chiat Road, may give an indication of their status.

As an expat, it surprises me that Singapore allows them to work the hours that are expected of them. They’re not even protected by normal employment rules. I know they can earn more here than at home, but it’s still a tiny amount and still worthwhile for many women to leave their home and family (often young children to be brought up by grandparents).

So, next time you are out in Singapore, and you spot a young woman carrying a baby, or the shopping, or pushing a pram, and walking two steps behind the rest of the family—she’s the maid.

0Businesses are run from the ground floor of old shop-houses—little engineering companies open onto the pavement, or old men sit at workbenches or at sewing machines in dark interiors. Hardware stores full to the ceiling with merchandise, or thick, unidentified smells from grocery stores. These are the kind of place that would be swept away if the road became more prosperous. There’s a place making funeral accessories—items to burn for the deceased to enjoy in the afterlife. Partly complete paper-covered houses on bamboo frames stand outside. A Mercedes seems to be the car of choice in heaven.

To look at, it’s the first floor that is most interesting. Painted walls with bright shuttered windows, mouldings and ceramic tiles depicting birds and flowers. Not all of the houses are in good repair. Some are left to decay, with plants growing in gutters, neglected roofs, and unpainted woodwork. There’s an empty building with heavy wooden props at one crossroads.

The late-night karaoke bars give the road a seedy edge, and numerous KTV lounges line the street. With adverts for cheap drink and pictures of the hostesses outside, the inside is hidden behind dark glass windows and doors.