Roman Holiday

I was not terribly impressed with the Hotel Alexandra until I read another IgoUgo top-rated review. I hadn't realized it was such a short distance from hotels that charge double and triple, although we did enjoy busting out the front doors in the mornings and being right in the action from our first step. The hotel is located withing spitting distance of Piazza Barberini. We walked virtually everywhere during our 5 days in Rome and if we didn’t, we braved the subway when we had to.

Our room was tastefully redecorated as promised on their website and the bathroom was thoroughly modern even though the entire accommodations were tight - we never spent much time there anyway and weren’t looking for a room in which to spend a lot of time. We did not, however, enjoy a room overlooking Via Veneto. We had a room on the backside of the hotel, overlooking the alley - equally as noisy yet with the voices of Italian mothers scolding children (hey - just because I’m on vacation doesn’t mean that life isn’t going on and on all over the world), workers making repairs, and deliveries being made.

Continental breakfast is included with your room. Make sure you bring your huge tasseled key with you to rest on the table so they’ll pour coffee for you without having to ask if you’re staying in the hotel or not.

L'Orso 80 was, by far, the best dining experience of our whole trip. We could tell that their reputation preceded them by the lingering patrons waiting outside the door for the dining room to be unlocked. Within minutes of the front door being opened, the entire dining room was full.

The waiters were friendly, fast and efficient--a combination hard to come by without leaving you feeling like the service could have been better, but I don't believe it could have been. We had prosciuto and melon that melted in your mouth, fritters of risotto and cheese (warm and unleavened), the antipasto mista which consisted of mushrooms, olives, artichokes, fennel, celery, eggplant, zucchini and roasted red peppers then a surprise of succulent meatballs and a perfect red sauce. For our entrees we had Tagliatelle Scampi with shrimp, prawns and clams as well as fettuccine with butter and fresh Parmesan. The food seems endless and there wasn't any room for dessert (although I'd wished we'd had). It was definitely worth the pacing wait outside the door!

I have to mention that it's difficult to find located just off the Piazza Navona and the exterior is indescript with no menu to peruse but you will be glad you spent the effort seeking it out.

I have seen countless photos of the Colosseum in my day but there isn’t a picture in the world that can make you realize just how incredible it is to be in its actual presence. It is truly incomprehensible how such a structure could have been constructed by sheer manpower.

There is an entrance fee with several options i.e. self-guided tour with head phones, tour guide, or the freedom to just take it all in at your leisure. We chose to simply walk and admire the views from as many vantage points as possible, taking the elevator to the highest point accessible to tourists. There were cats lounging everywhere that seemed indifferent to the multitudes of tourists. There is a gift shop, of course, and street vendors outside selling trinkets and souvenirs. I’d highly recommend going to the far side of the Colosseum to catch an “aerial” photo of the Arch of Constantine and a glimpse of the ancient ruins surrounding the Colosseum.

The incredible backdrop of the Galleria Borghese sets the tone for a dramatic and fascinating stroll through this incredible collection. We walked to the museum under a canopy of enormous trees and enjoyed locals too engrossed in their game of Bocci ball being played under the dappled sunshine to notice us.

Our trip to Italy became the "Quest for Caravaggio" and in this museum we hit the jackpot (including "Sick Bacchus", "Boy with a Basket of Fruit", "Madonna dei Palafrenieri", "St. Jerome", "St. John the Baptiste" and "David with the Head of Goliath"). But, as much as I'm mystified by Caravaggio's work, I have to admit that I also became an admirer of Bernini's as well. His marble pieces are so true to life that you expect the pieces are going to keep running or leap off their pedestals. This museum has an incredible collection including those mentioned as well as Titian, Raphael, and Canova to name a few.

The museum was completely renovated in 1997 and it's extraordinary. Only 300 visitors are allowed at a time. When we visited, admissions were only available at 11am, 1pm, and 3pm and admission was €8.50—well worth it.

We stumbled into the Basilica di San Clemente on our way to see the Colosseum and it wasn't even on our activity list. We paid the $3 fee to go downstairs to a 4th century church built over a 1st century Roman house containing a 2nd century temple to the Pagan god Mithras (god of the sun). Every level down took us deeper and deeper into history. We were so far underground at this point that we were able to observe the underground river running through a Republican-era drain. The frescoes are reportedly 9th and 11th century works of art and are well preserved. It's mind-boggling being in such ancient surroundings.

We thought it might be a good idea to walk to the Catacombes—maybe it didn't look as far on the map, maybe we didn't realize that there are seedier parts of Rome much like every other city in the world, probably it was just plain nuts. DO NOT walk to the Catacombes, it is kind of scary in some parts and towards the end there's a little tiny bridge that's wide enough for two cars only—not for pedestrians. One local simply shook his head when he asked us where our car was and we told him we walked. In the end we made it safely and chose a more modern form of transportation for our departure.

We did get to admire the Appian Way (built in 312 BC) which was once the main road into Rome. Today it is quiet, peaceful, and stunningly beautiful.

You cannot take pictures in the Catacombes and they warn people that are claustrophobic to reconsider if they want to make the trek. The Catacombes plummet 65 feet below the surface and cover 12 miles although the tour shows you just a fraction of this underground burial ground. They also give tours in several different languages and our tour guide was excellent. Two of the highlights are the crypt of nine popes and the crypt of St. Cecilia (the patron saint of music).

The crypt of Santa Maria della Concezione de Cappuccini (formerly Santa Maria Immacolata) is perhaps, the most macabre of places you’ll visit while in Rome. The church happened to be across the street from our hotel so before our taxi arrived to take us to the airport, we decided to take a walk through. The crypt is decorated with the bones of over 4,000 Capuchin monks who died between 1528 and 1870. The bones are arranged in intricate patterns on the walls, floors, ceilings, even posing as light fixtures in the crypt. There are cloaked “mummies” (many with thick leathery skin on their hands and faces) and an unforgettable sign that reads, “What you are now we used to be, what we are now you will be.” If you’re in the neighborhood, stop in - it’s like nothing you’ve ever seen before.

27 Via Veneto
Rome, Italy
Phone 06-45-28-50