Bangkok Bits

Location

On the eastern side of Khaosan Road, Nana Plaza Inn enjoys a superb location, including a back-exit into an alley between Khaosan Road and Ratchadamnoen Avenue, where some of the best travel agencies in Bangkok are located.

Name

Nana Plaza is one of the most infamous night-life spots in Bangkok, near Sukhumvit Road. However, Nana Plaza Inn is not near it and has no relation to it.

Building

Nana Plaza Inn was among the first big guesthouses built in Khaosan Road. The building itself is quite old. The rooms facing the street are quite noisy at night; there are plenty of inner rooms, therefore getting a quiet one near the back alley is not a problem.

Rooms

The rooms appear in several shapes; taking a quick look at them before checking-in is a wise step. Most of them have a strange elongated shape, with the bed on one side of the room, a television set somewhere in the middle and a closet at the other end. Despite the strange shape, most rooms are quite spacious. Some of the room do not have spare electric sockets, thus if planning to recharge electronic gadgets, the issue should be checked beforehand.

Most bathrooms are accessed through a separated door within the room, lack solid walls surrounding them and are located openly facing the street; offering thus inadequate privacy. The facilities include a basic shower with water heated by a small electric heater.

In some rooms the television does not have a cables connection, while in others it has a very limited selection of cables channels. The rooms include phones, though the calls are rather pricey. The air-conditioners are good to the extent of freezing the room if left on overnight.

Price

A single room costs 400B; the price is right for the better rooms but slightly overpriced for the simpler ones. This price places the establishment among the top-third range in the area and accurately reflects its qualities. Double, triple and family rooms are available.

Access

Over time, I had arrived at Bangkok at the weirdest hours and learned that few hotels in the Khaosan Road area accept guests at the small hours. Invariantly, Nana Plaza Inn proved being a reliable solution to the extent of allowing check-in at 4am and counting it as a new day entry.

Staff

Even while awaking the personnel for a check in at 4am, I found them polite and helpful; after a while, they began recognizing me and greeted me always with exuberant smiles.

Lobby

The lobby is built midway along a corridor connecting Khaosan Road with the back alley. On the Khaosan Road side, the street stalls selling everything a traveler would probably need intrude into the corridor. Their invasion is stopped by travel agencies and an international calls booth. After the reception area and near the alley is the Taketei Japanese Restaurant, which offers some of the best meals in the area.

Four planes took me from New Mexico to Bangkok and into the worst jetlag in my life. Even the coup d'etat in Thailand that was dramatically announced during the flight from Taipei to Bangkok didn't worry me; I just wanted to sleep.

Bangkok welcomed me in the early afternoon and the airport bus swiftly took me to Khaosan Road, my first stop of choice while in Bangkok.

Having arrived with no hotel reservations and close to the high season, I found myself wandering amidst full hotels. After a while I decided skipping the area and move to less crowded neighborhoods; while leaving Khaosan Road through one of the side alleys leading to Ratchadamnoen Avenue, I found myself staring at Top Guesthouse and decided to give it a try for a night.

Location

Despite being relatively hidden, Top Guesthouse offers a superb location, very near Khaosan Road’s center.

Façade

A clear sign intruded the alley’s air space and announced rooms for 300B; otherwise, spotting the guesthouse would have been difficult.

Reception

Despite the sign, the receptionist told me the single rooms cost 320B. The difference was not big, but the discrepancy was a subtle advice to check out the room before signing in. Soon, I was told that no single rooms were left and took a double for 390B.

Operating Hours

Late at night and early in the morning was difficult entering and leaving the building since the gate was closed and the reception was not manned.

Building

The boxy, white structure has no elevator, thus a room in the lower floors is recommended. Except for the crammed entrance, the building is kept clean and uncluttered.

Room

The room turned out being rather basic and overpriced, but going out and searching for another room was out of the question. Room 22 offered a top view of the alley and the entrance sign, but little else.

Being a double room, it had two beds with sheets and no covers; the pillows were the only article disturbing their flatness. There was a big fan at the ceiling, an open closet and a humble table.

The attached bathroom had a basic cold water shower with too little water pressure, a liquid soap dispenser and a towel. The room and the way leading to it were very clean; it was obvious that they were cleaned daily.

A sign by the door explained that only one roll of toilet paper was available per day; asking for more would create an additional charge to the room. The video cameras watching the staircase apparently made sure no guest would leave the guesthouse with his daily roll.

Engraved on the ten Baht coin, Wat Arun - namely the Dawn Temple - is one of the most distinctive views of Bangkok.

Location

Officially, the temple is in Thonburi, the former Thai capital located across the Chao Praya River from Bangkok.

Reaching the Temple

It is possible to reach Wat Arun with one of the ferry boats crossing the Chao Praya River from the Tha Chang Pier near Wat Phra Kaeo – the Grand Palace - or Tha Tian Pier near Wat Pho. Overland, it can be reached with buses 83, 19 and 57.

Timing

Despite the temple’s name, the best time for a visit is during the late afternoon, when the dusk light creates stunning effects on its colorful pillars. The best place to see it is across the river or from one of the boats traveling along it.

Coated with Porcelain

The unique look of the temple is due to the millions of pieces of colorful Chinese porcelain coating it; the story says that broken porcelain brought as ballast by merchant ships in the 17th century was used to cover its exterior.

Structure

Wat Arun's central Khmer
styled prang (column) - which at a height of 82 metres is Thailand’s tallest - rests on three levels of terraces and is surrounded by four smaller corner prangs, intermingled with four mondops. Below it, next to the riverside are six pavilions made of green granite and including landing bridges.

On the first terrace, are designs of giants and monkeys encircling the central prang, along with images of other Thai mythological creatures. The second terrace has an exquisite pavilion, with four statues showing events in the life of Buddha. Near the smaller prangs is an Ordination Hall with an important Buddha statue placed by King Rama II. The third terrace offers a view of the river and the surrounding area. It is possible to climb up the terraces and have good views of the Chao Phraya River and Bangkok across it.

The Emerald Buddha

After the Emerald Buddha was brought from Laos and before it was put in the new Grand Palace across the river, it was kept within Wat Arun.

Baptizing Bangkok

Wat Arun was built during the Ayutthaya Kingdom. Back then it was named Wat Makok - the Olive Temple; the small village across the river was named after it, and even after the modern Krung Thep became the kingdom’s capital, many people still refer to it as Bangkok ("ban" means "village" in Thai – the name got a bit mispronounced during time).

A dichotomy peculiar to Bangkok defines Silom Road’s character as well. It has enough attractions – cultural and commercial – to keep most visitors busy for a whole week, but those are obscured by the bad reputation created by the three infamous Patpong alleys at the street eastern end.

However, among Bangkok’s main streets, Silom Road offers the biggest diversity of all. Probably that is the result of its access to the Chao Praya River, to the Lumphini Park and its hosting the main commercial quarter of the city. Regardless the reason, Silom always offers unexpected and pleasant surprises, even if reaching it only for business.

At its western end, Silom Road reaches the Chao Praya River. Just south of there is the Shangri-La Hotel, and north of the junction is the Oriental Hotel, two of the best hotels in Bangkok; see my Extreme Hotels in Bangkok journal for details. The Oriental is considered to be one of the most luxurious hotels in the world, yet the prices of its rooms begin at just $289 for regular rooms and luxury packages begins at $1299 per night – not including the many extras available. Even for the not-wealthy traveler this is a golden opportunity to enjoy Thai luxury at least for one night; few world-class hotels are priced so modestly.

The Holiday Inn Silom (formerly known as the Crowne Plaza) is a few blocks east from there on the corner of Silom with Surasak; the three hotels make this area of Bangkok a natural choice for those looking for luxurious accommodations and access to the river while still being nearby downtown and the main business quarter.

Sri Mariamman, on Silom corner Pan, is an amazing Hindu temple built in the nineteenth century by Tamil immigrants. It is strikingly similar to a temple with the same name in Singapore’s Indian Quarter. The temple is extraordinarily colorful and ornate, with literally thousands of Hindu gods occupying every free spot on the structure. Unluckily it is forbidden to take pictures within its walls. The temple was built in honor of Jao Mae Maha Umathewi, also known as Uma Devi and Mariammam, the Goddess of Death; but there are also Buddha images within it.

Further east, on the corner of Silom with Soi 18, there is a night market which is less popular than its flashy neighbor at the Patpong alleys. Nonetheless, this one is more Thai in nature and thus more attractive for a late dinner of traditional Thai dishes. Some of the best dishes – like the ripe mango over sticky rice with coconut cream – are available only on their season.

The Patpong alleys have more to offer than the dubious establishments that gave them their fame; they host one of the most extravagant night markets in Bangkok. The market is clearly aimed for tourists, but is worth a visit during the late afternoon or the early evening hours, before the place gets unpleasant. Any imaginable gewgaw is in sale there; from fake Timex and Rolex watches to T-shirts in trendy designs. The market wakes up in the late afternoon and is open until midnight. In front of the alleys is the Skytrain’s Sala Daeng station, which connects the area with downtown Bangkok.

All along Silom are offices belonging to the main international airlines and service centers of international corporations; thus practically everyone staying for a while in Bangkok will reach the area.

The street ends at the junction with Phra Rama IV Avenue, where the Silom’s Robinson Center can be visited for a shopping spree. Below it, under the street level, was the humorous choice for a branch of "Tops," a local supermarket.

However, a shopping spree is not the main reason for reaching this area. Across the junction from Robinson’s is the Lumphini Park, the biggest green space in the metropolis. The lush and green garden hosts two lakes and two ponds; while walking among them, pleasant surprises await the visitor. The Thai Lanna Pavilion is better than any similar structure in Chiang Mai, the capital of the old Lanna Kingdom, which was one of the predecessors to the modern Thai Kingdom. Almost on the opposite side of the park are a Chinese Pavilion and a beautiful Chinese Clock Tower, which honor another important segment of the Thai society.

Despite the attractiveness of the park for a picnic, the idea is almost sacrilegious. The park is too well kept and even a temporary interference with its perfect, ascetic lines seems wrong. Instead, Silom Road offers one of the best coffee shops in Bangkok. Heading back into Silom, it is a matter of minutes until a branch of the French Delifrance is reached. They serve an excellent coffee, but there is a more important aspect to such a visit. They are one of the few shops in Bangkok specializing in bread and offer awesome sandwiches on a wide variety of fresh breads. After living for a while in a rice-oriented culture, such a place grows to be of importance and successfully provides the illusion of returning home, at least for a short hour.

Some aspects of the Thai culture are rather unusual; among those is their deep fascination with weird world records. Beating the record for being caged with live scorpions is one of the most gruesome; others are just an obvious effort to force reality into a pleasing artifact. For example, Thais seriously claim that Sukhumvit Road in Bangkok is the longest street in the world; despite it being a huge metropolis, this is a dubious statement. Telling them that some larger cities may have longer streets does not convince them.

Cementing their claim with asphalt, they have given the name Sukhumvit to National Highway 3, which runs all along the kingdom’s eastern coast from Bangkok all the way south to Cambodia. The highway was connected with Sukhumvit Road and now they can justify their record since the combined road measures hundreds of kilometres length. Of course most of it is beyond Bangkok boundaries. Doubts can surround this record, but it is undeniable that in its metropolitan stretch, Sukhumvit is one of the most interesting streets in Bangkok and one of the best shopping areas.

The street flows eastwards from the Ploen Chit Intersection and had recently regained importance after it became the main access road to the new Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Moreover, it is a popular residence area for expatriates from all over the world.

However, the main reason for its fame – its length - can be a drawback while visiting it. It is impossible to explore the road in one day, especially since it doesn’t have a clear center, but a myriad of tiny areas catering for different publics. Each one of the expatriated communities seems to own an alley and a cluster of restaurants on it. Furthermore, there are zones for shopping, night clubs, bus terminals, night markets and coffee stalls. Regardless the number of alleys explored, there are always new ones eastwards, running apparently all the way south to Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Sukhumvit is easily accessible on the Skytrain’s Sukhumvit line that runs from Mo Chit, through Siam Square up to On Nut on Soi 81 of Sukhumvit Road. The metro Sukhumvit station interchanges with the Skytrain at Asok. The Chalerm Mahanakhon Expressway has an exit at Soi (alley) 1. From Suvarnabhumi International Airport the AE3 Airport Bus (150 baht) runs up Bangna-Trad and along Sukhumvit Road all the way to the Central World Plaza or bus number to On Nut Skytrain’s Station.

The Ekkamai Eastern Bus Terminal is at Soi 63, catering for destinations along Thailand’s Eastern Coast; it is the main departure point to Pattaya, the best beach in the Bangkok’s area. The river boats running on the Saen Saeb Canal connect Sukhumvit with the Grand Palace area and are a good alternative to quickly cross the city during the peak hours. As all the main roads in Bangkok, the Soi (alleys) are numbered and make finding addresses easy, however the northern and southern sides of Sukhumvit do not line up and some care should be used while searching for an address.

Some good hotels in Bangkok are along Sukhumvit. The Marriott Hotel – designed in attractive Thai classical style - is at 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2. Another luxury hotel in the area is the Amari Boulevard, at Sukhumvit Soi 5; its peculiar triangular shape makes it an easy to find landmark. However, both hotels are in a seedy area. Cheaper hotels can be found along the whole street; however, Bangkok has better options on each category elsewhere – see my Extreme Hotels in Bangkok journal for further details.

Sukhumvit’s reputation had been somewhat damaged due to Soi Nana (Soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (Soi 21), where many nightclubs competing with those at the Patpong’s alleys as the worse spots in Bangkok had found a home.

Most of Sukhumvit’s sidewalks are a huge market; anything from fake Rolex through every imaginable gewgaw to original Timex watches and can be found here. Traditional Thai stalls – which became somewhat scarce in other areas of the city – operate here at all hours and offer happy breaks during a busy day of shopping. Supermarkets are scant in Bangkok, but Sukhumvit hosts two good branches of Foodland on Soi 5 & 16. The one on Soi 5 features Took Lae Dee, a well known restaurant styled up as a bar and serving Thai and basic Western dishes.

Modern shopping malls are scarcer than in Ploen Chit Road, but are still present here. The Robinson's Department Store has a branch at Soi 19. The Emporium Shopping Center at Soi 24 is the main competitor to the luxurious Siam Paragon and Gaysorn Plaza on the nearby Ploen Chit Road; it has an attractive food court and several restaurants on the 5th floor and is somewhat cheaper than the former two. Thong Lo – or Soi 55 – features some of the best fashionable shops, clubs and restaurants in town; this is one of the few musts in Sukhumvit.