Romantic Cape Cod

Cape Cod is an enchanting peninsula that extends 70 miles into the Atlantic Ocean from Southeastern Massachusetts and several of its towns and villages are more than three centuries old. The early inhabitants were Native Americans hence some of the strange sounding names. While on the "Cape" you seem to be in another world, a world of incredible scenery, vacationers, relaxation and fun. The activities are as varied as the landscapes, from scenic Highway 6A to sweeping landscapes along the coastline.

Whether your interest is lying on the beach all day, bicycling, canoeing, fishing, sightseeing, shopping, browsing art galleries, or sailing into the sunset, Cape Cod will not disappoint you.

Quick Tips:

Ocean breezes keep summer temperatures cooler, especially at night, so you might want to bring along a jacket.

Be sure to stop at a tourist office and pick up several free guidebooks. They have good information and coupons for reduced admission to many attractions.

From Labor Day to Thanksgiving, the Cape is less crowded and offers plenty of interesting cultural and special events. Motels and resorts usually offer lower rates during the off-season- an added incentive for visitors.

There are no open fires permitted on the beaches. Fishing and hunting requires special licenses.

Liquor stores are closed on Sunday.

Best Way To Get Around:

Easiest way to get to the Cape is to fly into Boston or Providence, Rhode Island, rent a car and drive an easy 1 to 1 1/2 hours to the center of the Cape.

There are bicycle rentals everywhere and a lot of trails for riding.

For a perfect experience, we needed to find accommodations reminiscent of the grand old stately houses of bygone days. No hotels for this adventure. Bed & Breakfast were the key words and the place to find them was on the Internet. There I found By-the-Sea Guests in Dennisport, Massachusetts, with pictures of a beautiful three-story home with the beach and ocean where the backyard would be.

Upon arriving at By the Sea Guests, we were greeted with a beautiful room on the top floor, overlooking the sand beach and blue/green water. On the dresser were flowers, a bottle of Champaign with two glasses and a small box of chocolates. A card addressed to us read " Happy Anniversary". At night, we opened the window to let the cool ocean breeze flood our room with the sound of waves crashing on the beach.

An extensive and delicious continental breakfast was served on the veranda overlooking Nantucket Sound. We were also provided with a Mini Tour Book prepared by the B&B, with information about bike trails, golf courses, boat tours, shopping, restaurants, points of interest, and maps of the major areas on the Cape. The maps were especially helpful.

Our room had a very modern private bath, cable television and refrigerator, white lace curtains, and handmade quilts.

By the Sea Guests has recently completed a new complex featuring five suites, three one-bedroom suites and two two-bedroom suites. All units have ceramic tiled bathrooms with antique replica bathroom and light fixtures in the same style and manner as in the main house. Each unit has a full kitchenette with dining area, dishwasher and all necessary utensils. Living rooms have cable TV, gas fireplaces, balcony and daily maid service. One unit is handicapped accessible. Suites will accommodate 4 to 6 guests. Weekly rates range from $900.00 to $2,125.00.

"If you like the taste of a lobster stew,
served by a window with an ocean view
you’re sure to fall in love with Old Cape Cod"

These are the famous lyrics of an old 1950s Patti Page song and not much has changed since then. I had been humming this tune all week, looking for the perfect place to have that perfect dinner to celebrate our perfect anniversary. We chose Pate’s.

Pate’s is located in Chatham which is a very short drive from Dennisport; you can hardly tell when Dennisport ends and Chatham begins. Pate’s specializes in seafood, but their menu includes steak, chicken and veal entrees. There is also a full bar.

After being seated at a quiet table for two, candlelight flickering and soft music playing, I had visions of a wonderful lobster dinner. The first thing the handsome waiter in a white shirt and bow tie said after welcoming us was "sorry, but we are out of lobster tonight". But nothing, including "no lobster", could change the mood. We enjoyed a delicious dinner of shrimp and crab, and it was the perfect ending to a perfect trip.

Our Whale Watching Cruise along the Stellwagen Bank, a National Marine Sanctuary, took 3 hours and was spectacular. Aboard each vessel is a naturalist who offers interesting and entertaining commentary on the whales, as well as on local history. Their main goal is educating people about whales, their habits, their environment, and the problems of extinction. They also offer a variety of "hands-on" activities for children and adults.

And yes, we saw whales. The most fascinating sighting was a large Humpback female and her calf. They swan just under the surface of the water in prefect synchronization. Every few minutes, mother & calf would breach just above the water. What a beautiful site. We also saw several Right Whales and Minke Whales.

There are just a few of the companies that offer tours:

Portuguese Princess Whale Watch
1-800-442-3188
www.PrincessWhaleWatch.com

Cape Cod Whale Watch
1-877-409-4253
www.capecodwhalewatch.com

Hyannis Wale Watcher Cruises
1-888-942-5392
www.wales.net

Almost all companies advertise "Guaranteed Sightings", offering a free pass for another cruise if there are no whale sightings, but this is very rare. All of the boats head for the same area, the Stellwagen Bank, a newly designated National Marine Sanctuary.

Pick up guidebooks at any tourist office and you will find coupons for $2.00 off each ticket. There are also discounts for seniors, children and groups.

Don’t forget the camera and lots of film, a jacket or sweater, hat, sunglasses and sunscreen.

The boats are comfortable with enclosed heated cabins, handicapped accommodations, and upper sun deck. Most offer sandwiches, hot hogs, snacks, sodas, water, beer, and cocktails.

The history of Hyannis and Barnstable is rich and colorful. Hyannis is actually one of seven villages that make up the township of Barnstable. In 1602 Capt. Barholomew Gosnold was the first of the Old World Explorers to view this area now known as Hyannis. Settlers from England incorporated the Town of Barnstable in 1639. In 1666 Nicholas Davis, first settler and businessman to arrive, built his warehouse for pickling oysters, and in 1690 Edward Coleman Jr. built the first permanent residence. Although the early settlers were primarily farmers, the maritime harvest was plentiful. By the close of the 19th century over 800 shipmasters sailed worldwide from the homeport of Barnstable.

Driving to Hyannis, 50 miles from Dennisport, we silently remembered all the times that this area was mentioned during the early 60s as the playground of the Kennedys. We visited the JFK Memorial and sat on the beach surrounded by gracious mansions.

In our travels, one of our favorite things to do is to see our adventure from the air, so we headed for the Barnstable Airport and found a pilot and plane available for a tour. Unless you have seen Cape Cod from the air, you can’t get the real "feel" of the Cape. Leaving Barnstable Airport, we over flew Cape Cod Bay and a sunken ship was quite visible under the rather shallow waters, and then turned north along the coastline to Provincetown and could easily see the Marine Sanctuary. Unfortunately, we did not see any whales on this aerial jaunt. We then flew south along the Atlantic Coast, across Nantucket Sound and back to the Airport. This breathtaking one-hour tour cost a total of $123.60, and was well worth every penny.

Plymouth is a short 20-miles drive from Cape Cod. There you can view the Plymouth Rock and the Mayflower II, visit the shops and dine on the waterfront. Visit the Plimoth Plantation and mingle with Pilgrims who speak to you in 17th century dialects. Join them in the 1627 village as they go about their daily life. Off Route 3, the Plantation, café and shops are open daily late March through late November. Adults $19.00 Child $11.00. 508-746-1622. www.plimoth.org.

Cape Code Central Railroad sightseeing ride is a two-hour excursion along Cape Cod Bay from Hyannis to Cape Cod Canal. Adults $13.00 Child $9.00. There are also lunch and dinner trains. 1-888-797-7245. www.capetrain.com.

Take the Ferry to Martha’s Vineyard, rent a bike and explore the Island. Mid-May through late-October the ferry leaves every 15 minutes.

Play Golf: In one of my guidebooks, there was a list of 33 golf courses on the Cape, 19 of them are available for public use. The others are private clubs.

Sailing on the Catboat. A unique and relaxing Cape Cod tradition, this 90-minute excursion departs every two hours from Ocean Street Docks, Hyannis. The Galley offers Seafood, snacks and a well-stocked bar. Adults $20.00, Seniors $15.00, Children $5.00. Look for a coupon in guidebooks worth $1.00 off each ticket. (508) 775-0222 www.catboat.com.

Sailing on the Schooner, Bay Lady II. Take a sail aboard a 73-foot traditional gaff rig schooner and slip back in time to earlier days when the pace of life was slower. Sail across Provincetown Harbor into Cape Cod Bay. When the engine is turned off and the sails fill with wind, the schooner glides quietly across the bay with grace and beauty. Prices range from $10.00 to $15.00 for adults (depending on the time of day) Children under 12 years $6.00. Reservations are recommended. 508-487-9308 www.salcapecod.com.

This scenic stretch of historic highway, once an Indian trail, is brimming with art galleries, dining establishments, distinctive accommodations and antiques and gift shops to captivate even the most discriminating shopper. Designated as one of the longest spans of historic highway in the country, Olde King’s Highway echoes a time when sea captains sailed home to awaiting families and artisans, eager to sell their wares, lined the byways. It is an enchanting stretch of highway no matter what the season and is sure to leave you with pleasant memories.

As you travel east through the village of Dennis, follow the signs to Scargo Lake. The Scargo Tower was built of wood in 1874 and was intended to attract visitors, who paid 5 cents for the privilege of climbing it and enjoying the view. The present tower was built of rock in 1901. From the Tower, all of the north shore of Cape Cod can be seen.

It is a beautiful 60-minute drive from the Dennisport, which is in the middle of the Cape to Provincetown, one of the most historic, unique places occupying the very tip of the Cape. Provincetown has thirty miles of white sand beaches, natural trails, trolley, dune and carriage tours, sunset sails, fishing, whale watching and an airport.

We strolled through the oldest art colony in the country. Dozens of galleries, craft shops and boutiques are features in this 19th century seaport. We visited the Pilgrims Monument and Museum where the history of the outer Cape is on display. The Pilgrim's Monument is the tallest structure in Provincetown. (See picture below.)

Provincetown is a colorful, unique town with "free spirited" people. Restaurants and souvenir shops abound. In addition to the numerous motels, hotels and resorts available, there are also eight Bed & Breakfast facilities and two campgrounds. In June is the annual Portuguese Festival and the Blessing of the Fleet; in November the Pilgrim Monument Lighting and the Thanksgiving Stroll Weekend.

On our return trip to Dennisport, we drove scenic Highway 6 and stumbled unto a beautiful lighthouse. It was set back off the road, but had a walkway from a parking area to the lighthouse and then continued to a high cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. From there we could see forever and imagine other adventures waiting for us across "the pond". Well, that is another story.