Waterfront Beauty

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The Kvarner is a very romantic hotel, and is located at the head of the 12-mile promenade that runs down the Opatija Riviera. There are several very good restaurants within easy walking distance. The hotel''s terraced "beach" is wonderful. The cabana attendants will get you a lounge chair and you can spend the whole day feeling like a circa 1920s movie star. The hotel also has a pristine outdoor pool surrounded by lounge chairs and sheltering, fragrant pine trees. The large terrace overlooking the Adriatic is filled with unbrella-covered cafe tables, and is an excellent spot to enjoy a drink from the bar while reading, playing cards, or catching up on your writing. The Kvarner also has beautiful, well-manicured flower gardens which are lovely to stroll through. A very nice buffet breakfast (breads, fruits, juices, coffee - typical European breakfast) is included in the room price and served in the Crystal Ballroom, which has floor to ceiling windows overlooking the terrace and sea. The elegant ballroom sometimes hosts musical performances - we sat out on the terrace and listened to a jazz concert that was going on inside. The Hotel Kvarner is one of the most relaxing places I have ever been.

The Hotel is very centrally located - you can walk to everything easily from the Kvarner. There is parking available right in front of the hotel, however it is gated and you will need to be buzzed in. If you have a car, be sure to let the front desk know before you arrive so that they can reserve a space for you. If you plan on staying put in Opatija, you won''t need your car once you''ve parked it.

Madonnina is very laid back - I got the impression that we could sit there all day and it wouldn't bother anyone. The staff was very efficient and friendly. The menu is listed in English, Croat, German and Italian, so there's no language problem whatsoever. The cafe is set in a pretty garden nook, and tables are places sporadically on little patio terraces, so you can enjoy your meal in relative privacy. And, true to form with most Croatian restaurants, the food and drinks are very inexpensive by American standards. Madonnina is an excellent choice for lunch or a casual dinner.

Starina has two dining areas - an outdoor section with wooden picnic tables under a white tent/canopy, and a rustic room with a wall of exposed rough-hewn logs and red and green plaid tablecloths. Large windows overlook the hotel district and water. As I mentioned before, the waiter was a real sweetheart, and tried out his English on us. He explained that the tourist season in Opatija ends abruptly on August 31 (we were there in early September), so we had the best of both worlds -- the warmth of late summer without the crowds.

The ambience is funky and eclectic, but relaxing at the same time. A broad porch wraps around the side of the cafe, and is filled with comfy chairs, intimate bistro tables and plants. The porch is lit with lanterns and tea lights, which cast a soft glow and really set the laid-back tone. Inside, there's an eclectic bar and more seating. They play excellent music (an eclectic range from techno to "alternative. "

This is a great place to relax with a drink. It's open late, so you can settle in for the evening and enjoy a few drinks, dessert, or both. (Hot Chocolate was 9.00 kuna - about 1 US dollar; beers (good, Croatian beer on-tap) were 9.00 and 6.00 kuna - $1 and $.72 respectively)

We went in the off-season and were practically the only ones there - I would imagine that during the season a reservation might be necessary, given how beautiful it is and how great the food was.

The recently restored Millennium Hotel is simply beautiful, occupying a stately salmon-colored mansion right on the water along the famous Opatija Riviera Promenade.