Myanmar - Road to Mandalay

Katmandhu, Timbuktu, Shangri La: all names of places that fascinated me when I was a youngster. Among them was Mandalay, “where the flying fishes play.” You might think that my expectations would get in the way of reality but the two days we were here actually exceeded my expectations.


After landing we were met by our guide, Bruce. He would never tell us his Bamar name. He was older than any of our other guides and more than a little cynical. Nevertheless, we covered a lot of ground in two days.


Our first stop was Amarapura, the royal capitol prior to Mandalay, with its two kilometer long teak bridge. We also visited a nearby monastery that houses upwards of 1,000 students and the Snow White Pagoda, which is forbidden for women to climb. We visited a silk factory which, even with my negative attitude about visiting local factories, I found fascinating.


In the afternoon we first went to the Mahamuni Paya which houses a very impressive Golden Buddha and then strolled over to the Golden Monastery, which is now the “Weathered Wood” monastery but at one time was completely covered with gold leaf. It's now a museum. From there we went to the Kuthodaw Pagoda housing the largest book in the world. 729 stone tablets containing the entire Tripitaka. Our last stop was Mandalay Hill to watch the sunset.


The next day was full of surprises. We started by taking a boat to Mingun which has what was intended to be the world’s largest Zedi but was never finished. We also visited the famous Mingun Bell, which at 90 tons is reputed to be the world’s largest, hung, un-cracked bell. Next we took in Myanmar’s “Taj Mahal,” the Hsinbyume Pagoda, which was created in 1809 to honor King Bagyidaw’s wife.


We later drove to Sagaing and ascended Sagaing Hill to the Soon-U-Ponya-Shin Paya which provides a terrace with incredible views of the river, the town and the surrounding stupa-filled area.


Since it was a holy day, Bruce arranged an invitation to watch a ceremony at a Sagaing nunnery in which the nuns give the monks robes they will wear for the next year. To say we were fascinated would be an understatement. We were transfixed.


We also saw a parade in which young girls were carried in highly decorated carts to enter the nunnery before we returned to Mandalay.

Quick Tips:

As I’ve mentioned in other Myanmar journals, there are a number of differences from the usual tourist destinations you should be aware of.


One, Credit cards are not accepted in Myanmar except in some five star hotels that can export the debit to their home office in another country. There is an extra charge for this. I recommend you either pay your room charges in advance through your travel agent or on the internet or plan on paying cash when you check out. I’ve heard Traveler’s checks are most difficult to cash but I don’t use them so I have no personal experience. Forget about ATMs.


Two, carry lots of one dollar bills for buying small things and for tips etc. Except for hotels and banks, anything larger than a is difficult to use. At no point accept the official rate for Kyat, which is about 7 to 1. The latest unofficial rate is 1,075 Kyat per . It changes frequently so check before you leave so as to not get taken.


Three, everyone must remove both their shoes and stockings before entering a temple area which often includes the entire enclosure.


Four, if you buy any gems or even jewelry, get an official receipt with the name and address of the shop to show customs or you could be in serious trouble.


Five, the airports are chaotic so be prepared to fight off vendors and unofficial porters. Even official porters will hassle you. You may need to employ a porter to get your bags into the terminal building and another inside the building and yet a third to get your bag to where it can be loaded on the plane. We tipped about 3-400 Kyat per bag (about US.50). As everywhere else in the world, Myanmar airports are the happy hunting grounds of pick-pockets and bag snatchers.


Lest you think everything is a hassle in Myanmar, I will add that the people are positively wonderful and 90-95% of the time we were delighted rather than disappointed but there is no sense in letting the 5% hassles ruin your whole trip, hence the warnings.


If you can visit Mandalay during a religious holiday as we did, you will be rewarded with experiences you might never have elsewhere. Religion is the glue that holds Myanmar together.

Best Way To Get Around:

At the risk of sounding like a nag, I will repeat that the best way to see an Asian City is to walk around. Mandalay is no exception.


The historically significant areas outside Mandalay are as interesting as anything in Mandalay, itself. To visit these fascinating towns: Amarapura, Mingun and Sagaing, hire a car and driver for about to per day. It’s worth it. Hotel cars are about five times that amount. Usually there are drivers or touts hanging around outside the hotel. Check with the concierge or doorman as to the reliability of the person you hire. I know it sounds silly but I would never hire someone who did not have business card that I could show a hotel employee as kind of reference check. It also indicates a certain level of professionalism and stability.


In our case we had Bruce and a driver from 9am to 5pm, so to speak, but the rest of the time we walked.


As in Yangon, taxis are the most efficient transportation and are relatively cheap. Always settle on a price before you get in the car. Never pay in advance. The busses in Mandalay actually seemed more trustworthy than those in Yangon but I still would not recommend them unless you are a lot more adventurous than I am.


Depending on your itinerary and schedule, you might wish to consider taking a boat between Bagan and Mandalay. The cost is minimal and the river is fascinating. It takes about 9 to 13 hours for the trip. The newer boats have both an upper deck for those who can afford it, i.e., tourists and a much cheaper lower deck for locals. If you are truly into boat travel you can cruise between Mandalay and Yangon. The trip takes about four days. There are other opportunities to use water travel on Myanmar’s rivers. Check it out on the internet or with a travel agent.


Mandalay’s new airport, by the way, is 50km from town so plan accordingly. Adding in waiting time and surface travel time, it took us 4 hours to reach Mandalay from Bagan. The actual flying time was 30 minutes.

On our way to Mandalay Hill we stopped at the Kuthodaw Pagoda, often called the world’s largest book. It is a huge walled complex situated at the base of the southeast side of Mandalay Hill. It was built by King Mindon at the same time he was constructing the Royal Palace, both started in 1857. Both Pam and I noticed that the main stupa looked familiar. Later I discovered it was modeled after the Shwezigon Stupa we had seen near Bagan. I was beginning to think that, “All stupas looked alike.”

The stupa is set in the middle of a thirteen acre field of 729 pitaka shrines. Each shrine contains a marble slab, inscribed on both sides with a portion the Tipitaka, Theravada Buddhism’s sacred texts. Together, they contain the entire text of the Tipitaka and hence the title of “The World’s Largest Book.” The slabs were carved from white Sagyin Hill marble found just a few miles north of Mandalay. The work of carving began in October 1860 and was carried out in a special hall within King Mindon’s Royal Palace. The 200 carvers completed their task in May 1869. If spread out horizontally, the slabs would cover about 200 yards². If stacked vertically, the "pages" would rise about 115 yards. Originally the lettering was covered in gold leaf but the gold has long since worn off. You can see a photo of one of the slabs below.

Bruce told us that to dedicate the complex in 1872, 2400 monks read the whole book in a non-stop, six month relay. There evidently is a paper edition somewhere that runs to forty 400 page volumes. A truly incredible accomplishment.

Walking up and down the rows of small shrines helped us understand just how astounding the feat of producing the book was. Looking down on it from the brow of Mandalay Hill also helped us comprehend the enormity of the task.

The courtyard and interior are also attractive and interesting. The interior has many artifacts from Myanmar’s religious history. Unfortunately none of the explanations were in English and Bruce wasn’t around to translate.

Since it is on the way to Mandalay Hill and is a one of a kind of attraction, I highly recommend you take the time to see this place.

Beware of the children selling flowers and other souvenir items in the entrance way. My wife, Pam, made the mistake of buying something from one of the young girls and we were immediately inundated by a crowd of insistent child vendors. Bruce was no help in beating them off. I finally used my booming voice to scare them away.

The entrance fee is $5. Picture taking is allowed.

This is possibly the most popular Paya in Mandalay. It certainly provides fascinating insights into the religious practices and devotion of the people of Myanmar. The original Paya was built in 1784 and was rebuilt after a fire in 1890. It exists to house a most revered Buddha image.

Nobody knows how old the Buddha image is. Legend has it that the original bronze statue was modeled from an image of the living Buddha. Originally from Arakan, it is considered to be the holiest image in Myanmar. It is heavily covered in gold leaf to the point that it is impossible to even guess at what the original image must have looked like. Male worshippers continuously apply gold leaf as an act of devotion. Women are not allowed into the central chamber.

It is estimated that nearly two tons of gold is encrusted on the 13-foot high image. The gold crown and the body ornaments it wears are solid gold and many precious gems donated by pious devotees such as rubies, sapphires, emeralds, jades, diamonds, pearls, etc., are attached to the body.

You do not have to be a practicing Buddhist to apply gold leaf, just male. I thought about doing it myself but when I saw the crowd of worshippers jostling one another to get to the statue, I passed on the opportunity. During festivals it gets so crowded that worshippers can only see the image on closed circuit TV. In a ceremony, I was sorry to have missed; monks wash the face and brush the teeth of the image each morning.

The image was originally captured along with six Khmer bronze figures, two men or guardians, three lions, and a three headed elephant called an Erawan. These figures are believed to have originated in Angkor Wat. Since these figures survived the trip to Myanmar they are believed to have magical properties. People with ailments come to rub the bronze statues, in the place corresponding to where it hurts them, in hopes of being cured. You can see where most of the rubbing takes place in one of the photos below.

One man stuck his finger in a guardian’s navel. I asked Bruce, our guide, what that was about, and he said the guy most likely had indigestion. I still don’t know if Bruce was kidding or not.

As in many Asian temples, there is a large tank of turtles and fish. These are protected as an act of life saving charity. Turtles also represent fertility so people come here to wish for a child.

In another building, there is a five ton gong hanging from a pole stretched between two large statues. It is evidently used in various ceremonies. I resisted the temptation to see what kind of a sound it would make.

Admission is $5. I was told I couldn’t take pictures of the Buddha image but the rule is not enforced.

Originally part of the royal palace at Amarapura and later moved to Mandalay, this monastery began its existence in the mid 19th century as part of King Mindon’s living quarters. After King Mindon died in 1878, his son and successor, King Thibaw thought that perhaps the apartments were haunted, so he had the entire structure dismantled, moved to its present location, and re-dedicated as a monastery in 1890. It is still a working monastery.

At one time it was completely covered in gold leaf and glass mosaics. The gold has long since worn away. The glass mosaics have disappeared and what is left is the weathered teak with which it was originally built. It is perhaps the only surviving example of 19th century Myanmar teak architecture and is also a significant showpiece of the wood-carver’s art as you can see in the photos below.

There is a wooden walkway surrounding the building which allowed Pam and me to see the carvings and other features up close. The walkway goes around the whole building.

We found the interior to be equally impressive with its massive teak pillars, imposing ceiling, replica of the Lion Throne plus even more carvings that haven’t been subjected to the elements. As in most Myanmar religious sites there are carvings and statues of the Nats, pre-Buddhist, animist figures. Of course there is also a very attractive statue of the Buddha.

As we wandered around, we were aware of a number of monks in the vicinity. They didn’t seem to be doing anything but watching the tourists and the worshippers as the tourists watched them. Exploring the interior had an eerie sense about it. Maybe King Mindon really does haunt the place. The entire experience, though, was very worthwhile and we could have spent more time here except that we didn’t want to miss seeing the sunset from Mandalay Hill.

There is no entrance fee. Evidently the chief abbot believes it is not right to charge admission to a religious building. However, there are many receptacles for voluntary contributions.

Photo taking is allowed.

I never quite got clear whether Mandalay was named after Mandalay Hill or vice-versa. Since the Buddha, himself, is said to have visited Mandalay Hill, I’ll go with the former. As the legend tells it, when Buddha reached the top he stretched out his hand to the plain below and prophesied that a great city and religious center would be founded at its base.

Unsurprisingly, given its history, the hill is covered with numerous pagodas and religious shrines, including, most notably, the Shweyattaw Temple. Approximately two-thirds of the way up the hill, it houses a large golden standing statue of the Buddha in a dramatic pose with his right hand pointing toward the Royal Palace and the city below. His faithful disciple, Ananda, prays at his side.

There is another notable shrine lower down the hill that houses the Peshawar Relics, reputed to be three bones of the Buddha. Perhaps, because it was the British instead of “true believers” who brought the relics from Pakistan and presented them to the local Buddhist Society, they don’t seem to get the attention or reverence you would expect.

There are two ways to ascend the hill. One is to deposit your shoes at the Southern gate and climb the 1729 steps to the summit. With many landings, the climb is, evidently, not as difficult as one might think. The other is to pay a small fee of 500 to 1000 Kyat to have one of the many pick-up trucks at the bottom of the hill take you to the escalator which you can then ride to the top. Since we had a car and driver, our choice was a no-brainer, though we did miss seeing the Shweyattaw Pagoda. Many people ride to the top and walk down the steps carrying their shoes. We considered that option but by the time we were ready to descend it was already dark.

At the top of the 230m high hill, sits the Su-Taung-Pyi (Wish-granting) Pagoda. The Pagoda includes an extensive pavilion that provides incredible 360º views of the Royal Palace, the City of Mandalay, the Ayeyarwaddy River, and the surrounding countryside. The pavilion also has many shops selling religious artifacts and other souvenirs, food stalls, fortune tellers, and street musicians. We realized, as we wandered around waiting for the sunset, how closely religion is integrated into the daily life of the people.

One feature I found interesting was the collection of photos taken over the years from the top of the hill. I got a sense of how things have changed. The earliest photos are from the 1890s and continue until about 1970.

Religious history, aside, we were there to enjoy the sunset which was spectacular. I was particularly taken with how as the sun went down the mist moved in from the river. Sunsets are much more hazy and long-lasting but no less beautiful than the ones from my wife Pam's home state of Montana.

The entrance fee is $5.

Amarapura was our first stop after flying in from Bagan as it was on the way from the airport to Mandalay. I think I would have appreciated it more if I had seen it after spending a day in Mandalay. Founded in 1782, it was twice the capital of Myanmar: (1783–1823) when the capitol was transferred back to Inwa (Ava) and (1837–60) when it was moved to Mandalay. Bruce, our guide, was quick to point out that its royal palace, great temples, and fortifications are now in ruins, either moved piece by piece to Mandalay or destroyed by earthquakes and fire.

Our first stop was U Bein’s teak bridge. At 1.2km, it is the longest teak bridge in the world and is in surprisingly good shape considering it is almost 200 years old. Much of the materials used to build the bridge came from the old palace when the capitol was moved from Inwa (Ava). It has been repaired in places with concrete posts in place of the original teak. Its curved design is such that, even in a heavy storm, the wind and waves would neither swamp nor damage the bridge. It is heavily used as there are a number of religious sites on the other side including the renowned Kyauktawgyi Pagoda.

Pam and I ventured out on the bridge but only got about halfway across before turning back. It shows signs of wear and tear but it is in incredible shape considering its age. Lake Taung Tha Man recedes in the dry season and farmers till the very fertile shoreline.

Our next stop, which is actually within walking distance of the west end of the bridge, was the Mahagandhayon Kyaung (monastery). We parked near as we could to the monastery and as we were walking toward it, Bruce launched into a rant about all the dogs in the neighborhood that hang out hoping for any leftovers from the monks’ meal.

The monastery provided us with a fascinating look into the lives of the 2,000 or so monks and neophytes that live here. Bruce explained that many of the novices end up here because they have no home or because their families cannot afford to feed them. No one is turned away, evidently. It could be seen as a kind of Myanmarese “Boystown.”

We were unimpeded as we stuck our noses into every building we saw. The open-air kitchen was perhaps the most fascinating place as the one meal of the day was being prepared in huge pots, some containing rice and others containing vegetables. This meal must be eaten before noon and no other food taken in until a little snack early in the morning, eaten before the monks make their begging rounds.

We joined many other tourists watching the monks line-up for their small bowl of food and then eat silently in an immense open-air dining area. No one seemed to be disturbed at the gaggle of tourists observing their mealtime ritual. Bruce said that anyone can ask to be fed from the same pots, although we didn’t see anyone but monks eating. There are donation boxes everywhere and most people dropped at least a few Kyat notes into them.

Our next stop was a silk weaving factory. I’m usually not much for visiting factories as they are usually tourist traps that exist for the sole purpose of getting tourists to buy their output. This factory was an exception. They didn’t try to sell us anything. We were able to watch the women operate the foot and hand driven wooden looms on which the incredibly detailed silk cloth is woven. Bruce translated for the owner or manager, who told us that one roll of fabric can take up to 2 weeks to create. I believed him after watching what the operator has to do to just add one more strand onto the fabric.

The factory we visited was one of many. Evidently over 10,000 residents of the area are engaged in the weaving industry, mostly working with silk but also with cotton. It was well worth the time we spent there.

Bruce also took us to a handicraft “workshop” that was, in truth, a souvenir shop. The only interesting items were the huge marionettes that are used in Bamar dramas. We had seen one of the plays in Bagan so it was kind of a kick to see the marionettes close up. The rest of the stuff was not very appealing. We got out of there as soon as we could.

We next drove to the Pahtodawgyi Pagoda north of the lake. Bruce referred to it as the “Snow White” pagoda and it is blindingly white. It was built in 1820 by King Bagyidaw as a memorial to his father. The lower terraces have marble slabs illustrating scenes from the Buddha’s life. The upper terraces are forbidden to women. We had heard that the views are spectacular but all the access gates were locked so that neither men nor women could climb to the top. Later we learned that the gates are locked most of the time for fear that a woman will sneak up on the terraces.

There were two attractions we missed that, had we known, we should have taken the time to see, especially in lieu of the handicraft shop. One was the Kyauktawgyi Pagoda, which is on the other end of the teak bridge from the Mahagandhayon Monastery. The grounds are reputed to be beautiful and can serve as a welcome resting place before heading back across the bridge.

The second was the Bagaya Kyaung (monastery) which has a fascinating history, having been burned to the ground twice in the 19th century but finally reconstructed in 1996. It houses a museum with 500 Buddha images and a library containing 500 palm leaf manuscripts.

Amarapura is worth taking the time and energy to see. We enjoyed our time there and our only regret is that we were rushed, as usual.

This was one of the most interesting stops we made during our whole trip to Myanmar. Not because of the attractions we saw but because of the rituals we were able to observe.

Sagaing has an interesting history. In 1315 it was made the capitol of a Shan Kingdom after the fall of Bagan had thrown Central Myanmar into chaos. The capitol was moved across the river to Inwa (Ava) in 1364. It briefly regained its role as capitol from 1760 to 1764 before the capitol was moved to Inwa, then to Amarapura, back to Inwa, back to Amarapura before finally ending up in Mandalay. The people of that time evidently liked to move the capitol based on what the seers said.

It is mostly known as a religious center and there are over 600 hundred pagodas, stupas, monasteries and nunneries in the area. Since we only had a half day we did not see nearly as many of the sites as we might have otherwise. The town was also full of pilgrims because this was a Holy day.

We crossed the Ayeyarwaddy River on the Ava Bridge. The 16 span bridge was built by the British in the 1930s and is the only bridge in Myanmar that crosses the famous river. It is a beautiful bridge especially when viewed from Sagaing Hill. After a nice lunch at the Silver Inn restaurant overlooking the river, we ascended the hill.

The topmost spot on the hill is the pavilion surrounding the Soon U Ponya Shin Paya, which was constructed in 1312. It is beautifully maintained and Pam and I were entranced with the 360° views. We also were fascinated to see images of the Buddha as a rabbit and as a frog. Our guide, Bruce, in his cynical way, pointed out that the frogs also serve as collection boxes.

We also visited the Umin Thounzeh (30-caves). We found 30 identical Buddha images in a crescent shaped colonnade–very impressive. The hill has many covered walkways which lead from one religious site to another. I suspect just wandering these walkways would make for a fascinating adventure.

We descended into the town which is interesting in its own right. We would have loved to wander around on a non-holiday. We did stop for a parade of very colorfully decorated horse-drawn carts filled with young women. Bruce explained that they were entering one of the nunneries that day and this was their last chance to let their hair down, so to speak, before they accepted their robes and shaved their heads. The women’s families followed in the dust of the carts. My camera picked this moment to malfunction so my photos of the entourage were streaked and unrecognizable.

Bruce asked us if we wanted to see a rare religious ceremony in which the women of one of the nunneries present a delegation from one of the monasteries with the robes the monks will wear for the entire next year. It was evidently a big deal with many of the nunnery’s financial supporters in attendance. The Head of the monastery was also to make a speech. We readily agreed and headed for the nunnery which was up a hill just outside of town.

When we arrived we were introduced to the Head Nun who was most friendly and explained through Bruce what was to happen. We watched from a small balcony next to the large ceremony room, which was full of nuns, patrons and a dozen monks sitting on a dais in the front of the room. We were the only tourists present and saw the whole ceremony. We didn’t understand everything that was going on and Bruce couldn’t fill us in as his talking would have been a distraction. Nevertheless, we were transfixed the entire ceremony. I was able to get a few photos when my camera decided to behave again. Maybe the improvement was a direct result of the atmosphere.

The relationship of the nuns to the monks, that of complete subservience, was instructive and I think reflects the general Male–female relationships in Myanmar. I also saw how important people’s religion is to them at all levels of Myanmar society. Buddhism is such a gentle non-political religion that it is not surprising the generals running the country position themselves as devout Buddhists and also dare not cross any of the powerful clerics. This is not the repressive type of clerical power associated with Islam but one much more based on influence and piety. Most Buddhist monks, not all, of course, stay out of politics as, in their minds; politics has nothing to do with becoming enlightened. Even Bruce, the cynic, admitted on the ride back to Mandalay that the ceremony was impressive.

Because of the religious holiday, children were out on the highway trying to stop vehicles so they could ask for money. They would actually tie a rope around a tree trunk and pull it tight as our car approached. We stopped a few times where the children were very young or had exceptional costumes. Elephants seemed to be the favorite, maybe because Buddha was born under the sign of the elephant. Most of the time, though, the driver accelerated and the kids loosened the rope at the last minute. If we had stopped for every group, we would have taken hours to get back to Mandalay.

If you have the time and inclination, I would suggest you give Sagaing a full day and visit the Kaunghmudaw Pagoda, wander the walkways on Sagaing Hill and spend an hour or so just walking the streets of the town.

The day we visited Mingun was a religious holiday which, in spite of the crowds, made the visit more interesting.

Pam, my wife, and I took a fish-tail boat across the Ayeyarwaddy River to Mingun with Bruce, our guide. The trip takes about 45 minutes. It was a beautiful morning as it was still relatively cool. Our first stop was what was intended to be the world’s largest pagoda. Sometimes known as "King Bodawpaya's Folly" because it was to be so immense that there was no way it could be finished in his lifetime.

Before we reached the zedi itself we looked at two incredibly huge stone Chinthes (lion guardians), near the river, that were partially destroyed in an 1838 earthquake. It must have been an incredibly strong quake because one of the Chinthes was tossed into the air landing on its side where it remains to this day.

The paya itself was begun in 1790, when an army of thousands of slaves and prisoners started to erect the monument. Work stopped in 1819, when the king died. It was meant to be 150m high but only the first 50m (165 feet) were completed.

To ascend to the flat top of the paya, one must climb barefoot up a stairway that can only be described as fallen rubble—the result of the same 1838 earthquake. Pam decided to climb it. I decided to have an iced tea and watch. She made it to the top but only with the help of others who were climbing with her. She said she almost fell at one point and was saved when a fellow climber grabbed her. I’m glad I didn’t try it.

After Pam’s adventure, we walked to the site of the 90 ton Mingun Bell, which has an equally fascinating history. It was cast in 1808 to be hung in King Bodawpaya’s monument. The 1838 earthquake so weakened its supports that it was moved to its present location where it hangs just a few feet from the ground.

It is about 4m high and has a 5m diameter at its lower lip. I actually crawled inside the bell and got some kids to hit it with a stick. It’s so massive, though, that the sound they made was very slight. It is reputed to be the world’s largest un-cracked bell, although, how it survived the earthquake is an unexplained wonder.

Our next stop was what Bruce referred to as Myanmar’s Taj Mahal—the Hsinbyume pagoda. It was built by Prince Bagyidaw, in 1816 in memory of his senior wife, the Hsinbyume princess, who died unexpectedly. The Paya is meant to represent the Sulamani Paya which stands atop Mount Meru, the center of the universe in Buddhist cosmology. There are seven wavy terraces that represent the seven mountain ranges surrounding Mount Meru while representations of the five mythical monsters can be found in niches on each of the seven terraces.

We were able to wander around the base of the paya but there were locked gates that kept us from ascending to all of the terraces, which was disappointing. It is a most beautiful monument and while not as impressive as the Taj Mahal, is beautiful in its own right.

Since it was a holiday, the streets were crowded but we enjoyed walking down the main road of the town to get back to the docks while taking in the sights and sounds. There were many hawkers selling food, religious items, and souvenirs. We stopped at one stall and shared a Diet Coke while sitting in the shade of what I think was a banyan tree. We also bought some star fruit to munch on during the boat ride back across the river.

I highly recommend visiting Mingun, not only because of the huge Paya but also to see the town and its people. The boat ride alone would make the trip worthwhile.