Dual Personality Island

Possibly Christopher Columbus sighted it on November 11 in 1493. True or not, the island was named after St. Martin of Tours, whose day that is. The Spanish didn’t settle the island, but the French and Dutch did, and after getting Spain to call it quits in 1644 they divvied up the 37 square miles between them. The Dutch call their southern share Sint Maarten, and the northern part is Saint Martin.

Visitors get the advantage of both cultures, although the Dutch has been diluted to almost non-existent. At some point during World War II the American military realized that both France and the Netherlands were under control of the Germans, and in 1943 they built an air base on the Dutch side. This site is now Princess Juliana Airport, and the de facto language of the Dutch side is now English.

Also, the American dollar is the currency of choice there, and you generally will not need a power adapter for your electric shaver at Sint Maarten hotels and resorts. The French side still prefers French as the official language, but you will seldom hear it spoken. The Euro (previously the franc) is the official currency in the north, and the outlets in the hotels are 50 Hz at 220 volts.

A rent car is a must if you want to get around and see the island. The island is mountainous, the roads are narrow, and there are few stoplights. Chiefly the island uses speed humps instead of radar, so your rent car should adequate ground clearance, or you’re going to bottom out a lot.

Night life and shopping are the principal activities. There are nine casinos, all on the Dutch side. The island is duty-free, and some good bargains can be found in the shops along Front Street in Phillipsburg. Sunset marks the beginning of party hour at the island’s clubs and resorts.

There's swimming and sunbathing, too. Orient Beach on the north shore is vast and very accommodating. On the Dutch side Cupecoy Beach is more secluded and not as accessible. Forgot to bring your suit? No problem. Same for Orient Beach, as well.

Haute cuisine? Forget about it. Take a trip to Grand Case on the north shore and sample the local cooking at one of the beach-side cookeries.

Quick Tips:

The main international airport is Princess Juliana, and you will need your passport or birth certificate plus a photo ID if you are American. Forget the departure tax requirement that is generally advertised. The fee is now , and they want cash. The good news is the tax may already be included in your airline ticket, so check this out before you go.

The major rental companies have cars close to the airport, and some provide a free shuttle. Some do not, but a taxi will take you for or so. Also some pickup points are walking distance from the terminal (this is a small island). When you pick up your car don’t let the agent tell you he will ignore those small body dings when you bring the car back. Note them on the rental form to avoid an argument when the agent conveniently forgets his earlier promise.

Front Street in Phillipsburg is shop city. Jewelry, cameras, and electronics are the best buys. Also, Cuban cigars, but you can’t take them back to the U.S. Liquor is a bargain but not worth the hassle of taking it back on the airplane. If you are a serious shopper, decide what you are looking for before you go, and know the best price to bargain for. And shop around. A difference on a new camera lens could be just three blocks away. Front Street is now a WiFi hotspot, so bring your laptop computer and wireless card.

Gas stations don’t take credit cards. On the Dutch side the price is in florins, but you will be paying in dollars. Be ready to do the math or pay too much when the attendant comes up with his price.

Theft from cars is common. Forget credit cards and cameras. They want the cash. Locking your stuff in the trunk won’t help. These guys will search that, too. Your room at the hotel or resort has a safe for your valuables. Use it.

Dining is expensive, because everything there has taken a boat trip. American fast food chains provide considerable relief, and the experience can very pleasant. The Domino Pizza near Simpson Bay offers dining in with a view of the yacht basin.

Best Way To Get Around:

Bus service is available on the island, and taxi service is adequate. However, a rent car is a must for making the best use of your vacation time.

There are no freeways, and the main roads seldom have more than one lane in each direction. The terrain is mountainous, and there are several spots that will give your lower gears a workout. The road to Dawn Beach is notorious in this respect, and recent construction has left pot holes that can swallow your car’s ground clearance. The road up the side of Pic Paradise looks like a ski jump from the bottom. Near the top it turns into the back side of the moon.

The border between Sint Maarten and Saint Martin is almost transparent. If you fail to notice the signs at the border the change in paving will alert you. The neatly painted striping and adequate use of signage demonstrate the French love for order and finish.

The near absence of traffic signals has forced the development of a driving etiquette based on courtesy and pragmatism. You let the other guy pull out because you know someone soon will return the favor. Drive fast if you want to, but you will soon be behind someone slower with no way to pass. Take your time. These are the islands.

Best Things Nearby:
Casino, on the property. Beach on the property.

Best Things About the Resort:
Modern, well-equipped units with full kitchens. Convenient to Princess Juliana Airport and Phillipsburg.

Resort Experience:
The resort is 342 units in several buildings over 12 acres, on a steep hill nestled up against the beach.

There is ample free parking, tennis courts, three pools, and small shops and restaurants and bars on the premises. Sea charters and inter-island ferries depart from the resort's waterfront.

Units have balconies facing the sea with a view of Saba island in the distance. The balcony is also a great place to enjoy tremendous sunsets with a cool drink in hand.

• Unit Type: 1 Bedroom
• Activities: Good
• Amenities: Very Good
• Unit Satisfaction: Very Good
• Family Friendliness: Excellent
• Service: Very Good