Barefoot in Bayahibe...again!

Bottles of ice cold drinks clasped against my bare chest gave quite the contrast to warm mud squishing between the toes of my bare feet. Dodging puddles and scattering chickens, we were walking the unpaved roads, returning from another midday run to the colmado. The humid tropical air was relieved by gentle showers which had been falling all day. Another lazy Sunday afternoon...simply magic!

Each night after work, locals gather in the small village center to converse, play dominoes, drink El Presidente beers, and listen/dance to music as a means of celebrating another day of the simple life they so passionately enjoy. The warmth, more from just weather, is enough to melt and capture the heart of anyone willing to experience.

Except for resort luxuries, you'll find everything for fraction of cost! It's also convenient basing excursions from detailed in my "Saona Island" and "Day Trips from Bayahibe" journals.

Quick Tips:

Colmados are the General Stores village life centers around. They take Noon-to-2:00 siestas and close early during the week. Plan ahead for making purchases. Bottled water is a must! If you'll be making an extended stay, consider getting a 5-gallon container for 20-pesos...the same cost as a liter.

Food bacterias will be your greatest threat; read the In Case Of Emergency entry.

Mosquitoes are worst at dusk and dawn. OFF-spray, room defogger are sold at colmados.

You might want ear plugs thanks to roosters and music - both of which can go all night.

Locals are eager to converse often speaking more Italian/German than English. However, there needs no translating a warm smile.

If you'd like a home-cooked meal or personal guide, send me a message for arrangements.

Prices quoted based on receiving 16.8 pesos on the dollar.

Best Way To Get Around:

Publicos leave the village center every 30 minutes or when full. One-way to La Romana is 20-pesos. For Higuey, they'll drop you at the highway 3 intersection for 10-pesos where you'll catch a gua-gua in front of the gas station for another 20. Larger, connecting hubs are in both of these cities. Don't be suprised to find 20 squeezed into a 15-passenger publico! *Its not as common as once was, but some drivers still unload locals to take tourists for private upscale taxi rates. Unless you prefer it this way, insist that they don't! Otherwise, your 20-peso publico ride to Bayahibe might cost 500.

Motorcycles, 4-wheel dirt scooters, bicycles, horses can be rented in the village.

WARNING - Avoid being on any kind of transport anywhere after dark!

Acquatic Excursions leave from the waterfront. In addition to scuba/snorkeling and deep sea fishing trips, day packages also include to Saona, Catalina and Catalinita Islands and Rio de Chavon. Check the Saona/Day Trips journals for details.

A new airport has opened with information, including taxi rates to/from Bayahibe, in a seperate entry.

General Transportation Advisories are in my DR-SURVIVOR journal.

HOTEL LLAVE DEL MAR recently opened in 2001 farther out along the main road and appears very similar to its main competitor in cleanliness, accomodations and services offered. When checking, their rates are also 350/450 a night. Telephone is 809/833-0081.

*With current shortages, migrant resort workers are turning hotels/cabanas into affordable permanent housing. Availabilities aren't what they used to be. Reservations for hotels are definitely recommended.

CASA DANIEL is more of a guesthouse and located a pleasant 5-minute walk south of the village along the coastal road passed the baseball field. Their rooms go for RD300. They also run the village dive shops; staff speak multiple languages. Their phone is 809/833-0010 or they've websites at 'casadaniel.tripod.com' or a German site at 'Casa-Daniel@gmx.net'.

Cabanas are scattered about the village usually running 200-300 pesos with some offering weekly/extended rates. Operated privately out of the locals' homes, they're nicer than guidebooks ever give them credit for plus you've the Dominican hostess to spoil you with hospitality. All have fans and either window screens or mosquito netting. Most have private baths; don't expect hot water. Meals are also sometimes negotiable.

Likely the most popular cabanas are the most visible; especially TRIP TOWN and FRANCISCA cabanas located along the main road between the center and Hotel Bayahibe. If these are full, turn left at the unnamed street next to the hotel as its also lined with cabanas. A lot of Dominican homes don't have telephones; therefore making cabana reservations are all but impossible. I suggest arriving in town before dark. If you've no luck finding a place to stay, ask a local who'll be glad to help you, but also don't hesitate to shop around.

My favorite lunch spot is the COMEDOR CAFE located on the main road across from the Police Station. A heaping plate full of rice and beans, salad, and either creolle prepared fish or chicken will set you back RD30. You can dine at the counter or have meals in take-out boxes to enjoy elsewhere.

For evening snacks, head for the village center and the CHIMI CART set-up under the street lamp. Jose can fix up a variety of sandwiches on his griddle for RD25 including hamburgers, hotdogs, egg and my favorite - roasted pork with sauteed onions, peppers and sauces. And don't let sight of all the unrefrigerated meats, sauces, etc. scare you off! I've never gotten sick from eating foods at ANY of these places recommended. During the low-season when other places close early or don't even open, Jose's your best bet for eating afterhours.

BAYAHIBE RESTAURANTE has reopened across from the hotel serving an upscale menu of fresh seafoods and pastas...just as PUNTA CANA does further right along the coastal road. Entree prices start around $8.00 - something locals would never consider paying...nor allowing me to either. Another popular eatery is located on the main road between Francisca cabanas and the village center's Lottery office. I can't recall the name...likely because I know their large Presidentes cost RD35 which is the least expensive once the colmado closes. It's a covered, open-air space with a colorful mural along the back wall. They specialize in Italian, Seafood, and Creolle dishes and keep the most consistant hours.

95% of my meals this last time were taken around the family dinner table and my only food-related illness was from eating leftover, twice-thawed pork after it had already been roasted. Food storage/preparation is vastly different. Based on your gastronomical sensitivities, use precaution and read my In Case of Emergency entry for health-related information.<<p>> If you'd like a fresh, authentic home-cooked meal, send me a message to make arrangements.

For those suspecting "animal cruelty", the Bayahibe rounds weren't as gruesome as I'd expected though the training and preparations were a little bloody as roosters have their combs and waddles sliced off, and thighs plucked for metal shards to be implanted. The day of the fights, roosters are weighed in and matched equally against competitors their own size. Their spurs are taped over. The cocks battle for only a 20-minute round and NOT until the death.

This is quite the social event and after a couple of rounds, I found the crowd to be more entertaining than the fighting roosters. Before duels, spectators have a chance to carefully inspect each chicken based on picking a potential winner. Once the bell has sounded, you then all but frantically signal bets against those who've picked the other competitior; usually for 5-10 pesos a "flog" though some obviously take the stakes a lot higher. One good flog negates the other's and at the end of the round, you pay up or collect from the person you've been betting with, and then pay a percentage to the owner of the rooster...or so I think. Actually it was rather confusing no matter who/how it was explained to me, but their were numerous with fists full of pesos.

Would I have gone out of my way to attend one of these things? Probably not, but since it was happening only a few minutes from where I was staying and one of our family member's roosters are known for being top competitors, I wouldn't have missed it...though I did sneak in about a 2-hour beach break in the middle. These fights weren't as gut-wrenching as Spain's bull fights. And other than the humorously rambunctious crowds and unofficial "rooster parking lot" as cocks were tied up by the leg everywhere waiting to battle, I went to bed that night only hoping that some of the village's alarm clocks were just as pooped out as was I.

On Christmas Eve, families gather in their homes for a gigantic feast and you eat and celebrate until another prade fires up around 9:00 p.m. passing through the streets. Once all willing participants have been gathered, it culminates back in the center with a fiesta blow-out that ushers in the official holiday. Christmas is spent eating leftovers and passing them out to visitors/out-of-town guests which stop by. Gifts are usually only given to significant others in a tasteful reminder that truly, it IS only the thought that counts!

The week between Christmas and New Years is spent feasting and either receiving out-of-town guests or going out to other places to visit family/friends you'll likely only see during the holidays. We headed for Higuey and piled in the back of a truck to venture across the countryside for an authentic experience I described being far beyond the highest First Class tourist. With each stop, you give fresh foods and receive others to take with you in addition to what your fed. We hauled home more than enough for another huge meal!

For New Year's Eve, locals return to the center for the biggest of the Holiday parties including the government bringing in cannons to launch a questionable fireworks show - a lot going straight up AND coming straight down injuring people and torching the large Christmas tree. If you can find a distant elevated viewing spot, you can also see fireworks from La Romana and all the nearby resorts. We were on top of the family's rain barrell tower about 200 yards from the center and I'm not sure which was more dangerous - being a nearby potential target without cover or from falling off the crowded stand amid all the dancing and celebrating! For New Year's Day, the village migrated to Boca de Yuma for all-day eating, drinking and dancing.

Three Kings Day, or Epiphany, is celebrated the first Sunday of January as the traditional gift giving time, though its mostly only the small children who receive anything...aside from MORE feasting and musica.

Bayahibe Beach is a Caribbean gem with the sugary sands, which are raked and cleaned daily, shaded by coconut palms swaying gently in the breeze. The tranquil blue waters are warm and clear though they've been fairly picked over so don't expect to see/find much snorkeling. You can also walk out quite the distance from shore, but depending on the tides - it can be quite tiresome trying to make your way back in.

Aside from the natural beauty, the other highlight is its the only public beach left where independent travelers and locals CAN enjoy the day without being chased back by resort security guards. If you doubt me, walk beyond the sign or half-way point and see how quickly a Casa guard confronts you! Weekends used to draw the biggest crowds, but more Punta Cana/Bavaro reosrt tourist are now coming by boat on day trips which increases the beachside fiesta of music and dancing.

Along the back portion is a Crafts Market where locals will rent you a hammock cot...though I prefer lying on the crest of the beach where the gentle tides can wash over my lower body while melding me into the sand. The vendors also sell snacks/drinks for about twice the cost you'd pay in the village. The ISSA MAR CAFE, along the bay on the walk out, is a much better place to stop for what you'll need...especially if you're planning to "assassinate" any Presidents as described in my SURVIVOR-DR country journal.

The beach is likely the further place you'll have to walk in Bayahibe; a 5 or 7-minute amble; longer if you piddle. Head north out of town across the expansive bay area amid the assortment of scattered, interesting boats. You'll come to a small building where signs say, "No Trespassing/Keep Out/Military Post", but its only for there. You can either take a left and walk along the coast, or a right which is a somewhat generic sidewalk for Casa del Mar guests. Either way if you're passing the village cemetery, you're headed in the right direction!

To the south of the village, passed the baseball field and Casa Daniel, is a much smaller beach area great for collecting shells and broken coral. These also make the sand a little treacherous, including if swimming while barefoot. If you're looking for total beach seclusion, you should definitely check this area out.

With the sad disappearance of the open-air Pin Par bar in the village center to make room for a larger Supercolmado, a second-rate replacement quickly appeared as the main watering hole. The BLUE MARLIN is a discoteque located on the southern edge of the center. You'll likely hear the music well before you see the sign. I found this place rather sinister - dark, closed-in and the music all but deafening as you'd expect from how loud it is from the outside. I passed through only one night and didn't care for it...nor do most of the locals, though that's mostly what you'll find inside. Beer and liquors are served.

Most independent and resort tourists head for the newly opened BIG SUR discoteque on the backside, far end of the bay. The place is open whenever you hear the music, but the crowds don't pick-up until well after 10:00 p.m. It has more of a Caribbean feel further enhanced on nights they've live Merengue/Bachata/Salsa music. You can sit under the thatched-palm roof or a gazillion stars on a clear night with the sand under your feet. I suspect the tiki-torches are burning citronella as mosquitoes suprisingly weren't a problem. Francisco's the harmless pumped-up bouncer. There's a 4:00 a.m. closing with locals heading back to Blue Marlin.

However, the most authentic form of nightlife begins when everyone gets off work and begins passing through the village center. From this point until the wee hours, locals can be found gathered together for the interactive camaraderie which their lives are centered around enjoying El Presidente beers and music - both found inside the colmado with open, heated games of dominoes, or men discussing politics, baseball, daily life and any story you'd share with a friend. They're also quite eager to interact with guests staying in the village.

For enjoying sunsets, the best place is the concrete landing behind the internet cafe where the main road t's into the coastal road. There's usually an interesting assortment of boats in the harbor, but likely the biggest bonus is there's few if any mosquitoes here. As for sunrises, they're best viewed from elevated places such as a 2nd floor, east side balcony at Hotel Bayahibe.

I'm by no means a heavy drinker, but I continue to be amazed that whether the atmosphere, weather, company or what - when in Bayahibe, I can pretty well non-stop leisurely partake of the beers, rum, Mama Juana and NEVER be sloppy drunk!

Dominicans swear this to be a preventive cure-all for what ails you-an elixir and a liquid Viagra-like aphrodisiac. A lot start their days with a healthy belt. Come nightfall, locals can be seen sipping on anything from half-pint containers to gallon-sized milk jugs!

Mama Juana's herbal nature has a tendency to flush/purge the body, which can sometimes be good for ridding your system of daily intake of food/water bacteria-provided you haven't already came close to dehydration. Then, it’s a curse as any alcohol/caffeine would be. You'll also want to avoid intake with an upset stomach, regardless of what locals say!

Bottles in Bayahibe can be purchased along the coastal road where tourists exit boats, or at Casa Daniel's Dive/Gift shops. It’s also easily found across the country wherever tourist traps are located, but the best ones come from outdoor market areas in towns where locals shop. Mixtures and tastes vary around the different regions, but I avoid bottles with bits of dried seafood inside.

I'd never had trouble bringing numerous bottles of Mama through customs into the US, but have gotten jammed up at the airport in La Romana. More and more, vendors are selling bottles to tourists with just the dry goods inside and not any alcohol. I had purchased three this way to keep from further weighing down my luggage.

WARNING-Without the booze, bottles are considered as food and NOT allowed to leave the country! My question to airport officials was, "Then why are more bottles being sold this way without any forewarning?" Since I was well early and there were no other check-ins, they allowed me to go to one of the concession stands and buy two 1.5 liters of rum to pour into the bottles in making them "legal" for export. Unfortunately, I had a little over a third of one rum bottle left, and of course, there's no open containers allowed on board. Needless to say, I was quite the mess by the time I boarded the plane!

Mama can be rather jealous and is best enjoyed without other intoxicants. Natural affect is more herbal than drunkenness, but the body quickly processes the potion into untraceable blood alcohol levels. I’ve yet to meet anyone that has tried and didn’t like it.

"Wanna Juana" is a common request I hear from stateside friends frequently adding names to the ever-growing list of receiving the favored island souvenir. There's nothing like putting on Meringue, sharing a bottle a shot at a time chased/mixed with fruit juice or coke, and rekindling the DR's warm, good vibe WITHOUT worry of hangover.

1) - Travel with a spirit of humility and genuine desire to meet and talk with local people.

2) - Be aware of the feelings of others. Act respectfully and avoid offensive behavior; particularly when taking photographs.

3) - Cultivate the habit of actively listening and observing rather than merely seeing and hearing. Avoid the temptation to 'Know all the answers'.

4) - Realize that others may have concepts of time and attitudes which are different - not inferior - to those you inherited from your own culture.

5) - Instead of only looking for the exotic, discover the richness of another culture and way of life.

6) - Learn local customs and respect them.

7) - Remember that you are only one of many visitors. Do not expect special privileges.

8) - When bargaining with merchants, remember that the poorest one may give up profit rather than his or her personal dignity. Don't take advantage of the desperately poor. Pay a fair price.

9) - Keep your promise to people you meet. If you cannot, do not make the promise.

10) - Spend time each day reflecting on your experiences in order to deepen your understanding. Is your enrichment beneficial for all involved?

Chances are you'll have a lot of free and down time while staying in Bayahibe so be prepared to indulge in that book you've been dying to read or by bringing any other project you've been putting off...provided its not work related. Most hotel rooms and cabanas have balconies or patios perfect for passing the time of day or an evening. A random motor scooter, crowing rooster, distant music or locals' conversation will be about the only potential distraction....if you find it even much of that!

While we can sometimes crave and yearn for a simpler way of life, adjusting to it once we've found it is not always our natural mode of operation which too often leads to boredom. If you find this, I highly suggest walking the residencial area of the village to help with your adaptation. The streets are unnamed and somewhat of a maze (leaving me baffled that letters/packages sent from the States still always get delivered), but the area is too small for you to get lost in. Enjoy the colorful sites of the small houses and shacks with their fluttering laundry hanging in the breeze, the smells of something always cooking in the kitchens, and the sounds of village life. Many smaller shops and businesses, such as barbers, seamstresses, and vendors, operate in open-air facilities giving you full view and experience whether in friendly conversation or a warm smile. And don't be suprised if you're invited for coffee!

You'll also come across homes which still don't have indoor plumbing or electricity or you might possibly find someone discreetly bathing in one of the many sinkholes. Poverty plays a large part in these appearing "backward" elements as does the potential for having everything blown away annually in a hurricane. But even the more modern homes are greatly lacking when it comes to worldly standards - no television, telephone, computer and about any of the other things we'd consider ourselves lost without.

So on a stay in Bayahibe, would you be missing all your props and daily essentials? If so, then you might consider looking elsewhere to spend your time. If not, then be prepared to relax and enjoy the luxury of nothing the way the locals have for years without all our distractions - they only have time and each other.

This was my first trip back in 13 months and there were more obvious growth-related changes over the last year that there's been in all the other times here put together. Standard "grotesque blue" tourist friendly directive signs now line ALL the country's roadways. Three more all-inclusive resorts have opened within 15-20 minutes of Bayahibe bringing the number to six. Turning off for the village, a huge mansion built by Russians crowns the hill with a white dome that can be seen from about anywhere all but rebelling against the scenic, natural vistas.

In town, locals have tried to keep pace with foreign investors opening more restaurants, eateries, and excursion companies. How much was holiday/seasonal or general progress related, I'm not sure but it wasn't the overall peaceful atmosphere I'd came to crave, appreciate. While increased tourism benefits all with greater, needed cash flow, I'm afraid its coming at an even great cost.

There's a quiet restlessness stirring the village with talks of investors developing the picturesque waterfront over the next couple of years with hotels/condos, shops/restaurants, and a gigantic marina to compete with the newly opened one at Casa de Campo just up the coast. "Supposedly", only the first couple of blocks within the village will be eradicated but I've all too often seen how capitalistic projects mushroom...not to mention immediate efforts to segregate the wealthy tourists from the local poor. There's talks of extending the village eastward and relocating the displaced locals - provided they can "afford" the sky-rocketing land prices based on whatever they're paid for the prime real estate they ALREADY own and will be expected to surrender.

Bayahibe was founded in the early 1900's by an extended family of Puerto Ricans named Brito who left their island after U.S. acquisition in 1898. Until about 10-15 years ago, Bayahibe had peacefully evolved as a sleepy, seaside fishing village creating the perfect authentic tropical destination that vacation dreams are made of. Those looking for more, Bayahibe provided a haven into a different world and way of living. You can still find most of the same...but for how long? You better make travel plans to enjoy what's left while you can.

EVOLUCION BAYAHIBE SCHOOL LEARNING CENTER is a private institution which opened July, 2001 by a friend of mine who returned to his homeland from NYC. They currently hold nightly classes in a small 3-room apartment and have a waiting list for those wishing to join the basic English or Computer classes. Vision for future development is to create a TOURISM ACADEMY to help train locals in all aspects of the rapidly growing employment market they don't have necessary education or skills to compete in.

Dominican government only requires students to attend school through the 6th grade and some years in Bayahibe, there aren't resources to even take them that far. If continuing secondary education, a student must be accepted into one of the private parochial schools in the nearby city of La Romana. Costs for tuition, books, uniforms and daily transportation averages $800.00 for one student; roughly one-fourth of an average family income. As you'd expect, most youngsters head right into the dismal workforce as early as 10-years old in helping contribute to the family.

I'm VERY excited about this project as a planner and investor. Additional dreams include for the Tourism Academy to be located inside a large Community Center which will further serve the village; especially the youth since they could loose most of their baseball/basketball playing fields with development of the waterfront. In addition to the Academy, we would like to see an affordable private secondary school available as well as an education-based Day Care program for the many babies and toddlers whom often roam the streets while mothers are working cooking/cleaning.

THE OFFER STANDS - If you're an independent traveler and would like any kind of tourist-related services, send me a message. I can help make the arrangements and put you in touch with the school's director who is bilingual in both Spanish/English. Your needs might come from within Bayahibe, excursions in my upcoming Day Trips From Bayahibe journal, or I'd definitely recommend an escort if going into the cities of Higuey, La Romana, San Pedro de Macoris, or Santo Domingo. Service fees YOU preset will be negotiable, but keep in mind - most students struggle to pay their $6 English/$9 Computer weekly tuitions.

This government-ran facility is regularly open during weekday business hours, though the doctor lives on premises and is fluent in English. If she's not there or unavailable, Santos is the facility watchman who can put you in contact with her or someone else. Unfortunately, he speaks only Spanish. For any matter too great to treat, you will be referenced and escorted to a larger hospital facility in La Romana; about 30-minutes away.

This small clinic sees 100's of patients weekly from the rural area, but also not excluding tourists. Since you're not Dominican, be prepared to potentially pay a small fee for services/medications rendered. Medicines I received for a mild case of food-related something had me feeling fine by evening of the same day. The doctor said in most cases, our over-the-counter dosages we tend to bring ARE NOT enough to combat the bacterias which can prolong the illness and vacation time spent in bed.

If you're visiting July-October, the clinic also doubles as one of two hurricane shelters. For some real 'True Grit' stories, speak with some of the locals about Hurricane George in 1998 that all but obliterated the village. They rode the storm out inside the clinic for almost a week and while waiting for the 3+-feet floodwaters to receed into the Sea. (That's also why the villages streets are STILL so bad!) When finally being able to come out and piece the village back together, they did so without food for almost a month!

The other hurricane shelter is at the local Police Station which is located on the main road right when you enter the village. Bayahibe has a full squad of officers patrolling the streets and beaches via SUV, jeep and motorcycle though they'll quickly tell you crime and infractions are basically non-existant. However, I'm telling you don't take this as a green light for tempting fate through careless - not cautious behaviors. Should you ever have need to report or find out anything, the station is open 24 hours and most the good ol' boys can be found sitting out front during the day. English, Italian and German are spoken but not necessarily proficiently.

There is no Codetel Office in Bayahibe; the closest is in La Romana. If you have to make a phone call and don't have access to one of the few private phones at your hotel desk, from your cabana owner, or even at the police station, offer a small fee to anyone until you find one for usage. You'll need to but a codetel card from one of the colmados which can be rather expensive. A 145-pesos/$8.45 card will net about 22 minutes whether speaking to the States or another phone in the village. If they're accessible, I highly suggest purchasing phone cards before you leave home which allows you to call International destinations while abroad. They're much cheaper, but make sure to purchase ones which don't have a connection fee. The already shakey Dominican phone system is being pushed further to the limits with the rapid emergence of fax, internet and cell phones. Don't be suprised if the phone repeatedly goes dead.

CREDIT CARDS

I advise calling your card company and letting them know you'll be traveling in the Dominican Republic. Its considered a high-risk country and this last time when using a new, upgraded card, it was immediately shut-off after the first substantial swipe. I was able to get it reactivated after calling the collect number, but not without a grueling process of reproving who/where I was and recounting most recent usage. Credit cards are widely accepted in larger cities. In Bayahibe, they're only consistantly accepted at Casa Daniel's Dive Shops and Guesthouse. Both hotels are definitely hit-and-miss.

SHOPPING

If you'd like some of the music you've been engulfed in during your stay, TOMACITA COLMADO, where the main road t's into the coastal road, is the only place selling authentic cassettes for RD40. (Local vendor's tapes are poor quality boot-leg!) All other colmado related purchases, including foods, drinks, film, suntan oils, Off-bug spray - shop the less expensive Supercolmado in the village center. They also exchange currencies into pesos, but don't use this as a main source. In addition to cheap bottles of high-quality rums, consider the Crema de Oror - one of the finest Rum Creams I've ever absorbed! Locals' clothing is sold out of the pink/yellow house behind Hotel Bayahibe. For souvenir-type purchases, Casa Daniel has two Dive/Gift shops and at their Guesthouse with jewelry, native crafts, Cuban/Dominican cigars, postcards and t-shirts of both high/low quality. Locals have market stalls set up across from the lagoon and along the back of Bayahibe beach with well over-priced goods you'd expect unless you're willing to play the bargaining game.

The new airport has a large, enclosed processing area when arriving where you''ll purchase and fill out your mandatory $10 tourist card. Thankfully, its air-conditioned as the speed/efficiency of clearing customs has not improved! Luggage is lined and waiting in a grand hall before exiting the terminal. Perhaps the biggest new bonus is there''s a Currency Exchange Center located seperately outside in the front of the terminal so there''s no need for independent travelers to make the peso run into La Romana as in the old days.

A spacious, open-air check-in are for departures is now available with plenty of seating outside or air-conditioned inside once you''ve cleared security and customs. Concession vendors are located both inside and out as well as a large Duty Free Shop beyond the security checkpoint.

*Mandatory departure tax, now accepted in Pesos or your country''s currency, was $11.

American Airlnes is till the only States'' carrier serving La Romana-LRM with daily flight connections through Miami-MIA, San Juan-SJU, or Regan-DCA. I still highly advise calling to reconfirm you flight within 24 hours of departure so TAKE NOTE - I''ve AGAIN called AA to let them know their printed contact number of 200-1122 for La Romana/Puerto Plata airports is STILL not a working number, nor has it ever been when calling from Bayahibe. Use the number listed inside your ticket envelope for contacting bilingual agents in Santo Domingo.

Resort tourist are picked up by bus/vans. Otherwise, there''s no publico/gua-guas, so independent travelers take private cabs which can be rather expensive unless you''re willing to haggle...which I wasn''t in just wanting to get home paying $30/RD500; the same I''ve paid for the older, farther away airport. Make certain they understand you want to go to "el centro de Bayahibe pueblo".

When returning to the airport, make arrangements in the village center. They''ll send a publico to where you''re staying to pick you and your bags up for RD200. Remember this so it can be your bottom-line haggling point when catching that private cab when you arrive. This is also where speaking confident Spanish CAN make a difference.

Quickly dropping off my bags at the hotel, I headed out for that short, familiar walk "home"! The front door to the cinder-block house was open, welcoming the typical parade of afternoon visitors. Walking in, I found Mami in the kitchen busily preparing dinner. She turned to greet and hug me, looking even more exhausted from her faithful "Trabajando mucho siempre/Always working much" statement. The baby was napping. This was not the time for catching up on details. Walking to the baseball field, I realized she'd been so distracted that I didn't even get the familiar "Why do you stay at the hotel" lecture.

Slipping into one of the dug-outs did not help from distracting the youth leagues practicing. All they could wonder was how could I be here and not home for the 2001 Subway Series? Was I a Yankees or Mets fan? I warmly kidded, honestly wishing they'd get back to practice so it would end quicker. The sun was melting into the sea behind the make-shift batting cages and coconut groves; a sight more stirring than any of America's multi-million-dollar stadiums. Smiles and gestures while coaching the outfields couldn't suffice finally being close enough to mi compadre to lock eyes and see the truths that needed no explanations. There was no denying the awkwardness of the inevitable awaiting.

Walking back towards the village, we lagged behind the group. Wanting to be alone, patience was in order knowing players habitually stopped for antics, cooling off in the water before heading home. I eternally wait to be reunited back in Bayahibe, sharing any and everything about our lives without Ma Bell interceding. Obviously, we were both strangely thankful that post-season play-offs fell short, sending him back not a day too soon to the village and people that made him into the fine human character that he is.

Bayahibe has a way of making you feel at home-no matter how long you've been away, it’s like you never left. Walking further along the coastal road heading towards the bay, we were greeted by an older brother. His big toothy smiles and gut-rattling hugs were postponed for now. He knew what our agenda held. But rather than heading on toward Bayahibe beach, we stopped short entering the small village cemetery. I didn't even have to ask where, seeing the clumps of dirt, rock, and sugary white sand minced into a small mound covering the remains of another brother who'd been buried only days before.

The story slowly, painfully began to unfold-living on the coconut coast and working as a Bavaro boat capitan, he was finishing work to spend the evening with a girlfriend, riding around on a motorcycle after dark, and was not seen by the driver or a large truck. Apparently, both died immediately and the fact that Dominicans never wear helmets wouldn't have helped or been enough.

Is anyone ever prepared for the tragic loss of life, especially when happening to someone so young- a 21-year-old who had his future before him?

Happy Hour was on for the mosquitoes feasting on fresh white meat. The sun had slid below the horizon, stubborn about painting me a "welcome back" sunset. My eyes kept trailing the tranquil sea waters beyond the palms and sands of Bayahibe beach to back around the shabby, overgrown village cemetery. A make-shift cross had been impaled into the broken ground. I remember thinking it couldn't withstand a good breeze, let alone countless hurricanes that have and will sweep through here. I'm not sure how long we'd been there; both our 6-foot, 4-inch frames rising from the ground eye-to-eye to look through the windows into each other's hearts. For now, nothing more need be said. The pain of loss was deeply shared . . .

Time slowly heals as it quickly passes. We'd returned from a morning baseball scrimmage in nearby Chavon. I was looking forward to a frosty protein-mix shake laden with fresh pineapple juice. It was just after high noon, sweat dripping down our necks and torsos. They say if you can't stand the heat, stay out of the kitchen-we were under the roof made with sheets of tin metal. Hence, the microwave effect is anywhere inside during mid-day. We were puzzled when Mami rushed in from her Saturday shopping trip to La Romana carrying nothing.

A young player for the Houston Astros had been killed the night before near Casa de Campo while riding a motorcycle-less than two weeks ago, two days since my arrival. The news was like bathing open wounds with salty sea water. There was no discussion. Mami stayed in the bedroom. A player agent was waiting to be seen in San Pedro de Macoris. The best I could hope for was there'd be enough people at the beach to distract me, once I passed the cemetery to get there.

Music from the bar could be heard through the screened windows as I dressed for a Saturday night out in Bayahibe. Heading for the house, the front door was closed when I got there so I naturally came around to the patio navigating my way through lines of laundry swaying in the gentle breeze. The baby, dragging a toy truck I'd brought, dropped the string throwing his arms wide open for me to pick him up and toss him in the air.

Mami stepped out from the kitchen, seeming a bit more composed. Our small talk hadn't gone far when realizing this was the first chance I'd had alone with her this visit. She went back into the kitchen; I assumed to bring something to drink. I wasn't expecting what she brought in addition to the coffee. There was an official identification card and a rather dog-eared, wrinkled 5 by 7 picture of him; likely the only two tangible pieces of evidence that this young man ever existed.

I forced myself to look, trying to remember this family member who I'd known the least. Ah, mi hermano del Corazon(my brother of the heart), such a tragic waste of life. Mami took the picture sadly repeating, "Ve mi nino. Es tu papa(Look my child. It’s your papa)". Thankfully the rambunctious toddler wasn't overly interested, too young to know what the misty eyes were about.

The evening seemed to restlessly drag on until sound of the front door opening caused Mami's and my anxious eyes to meet. A split-second of panic collapsed into the unspoken relief we'd both been consciously waiting for. The publico connection in La Romana from San Pedro had safely made it back to Bayahibe.

PEOPLE OF ALL AGES PERISH DAILY ACROSS THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC FROM TRANSPORTATION-RELATED ACCIDENTS! So what's a person, local or tourist, to do? Please read my Transportation Advisory Free Forms in my DR-SURVIVOR journal for information you need to know before you go.

With all my travels, I can't think of another place in the entire world that feeds and soothes my entire inner-being like mi pueblo of Bayahibe. As written in the journal highlights, coming here has moved far beyond vacation into a coveted realm of spending quality time with my second family in my second home. That element alone all but erases desires to squander time and money for going anywhere else in the world despite the life-changing pleasures and experiences I've gained through global travel.

Not only was this the longest I'd ever stayed, but it was also the first time I'd taken up my family's offer of actually living at the house rather than a hotel. Little did I know that accepting this Holiday gesture would be one of the greatest gifts I could ever give myself while lavishing new meaning to fully taking part in every moment of their lives. There was no hotel retreat-haven wanted or needed, and in still trying to process all that transpired, I can't understand why I was ever willing to settle for anything less.

Dominican life centers around the family and sharing hospitality with friends and neighbors. More than ever before, I learned to appreciate my time here beyond the village and beach scenes with a new treasured spot I also now yearn returning to - the front/back porches of the family house. Undoubtedly, more time was spent in these places than anywhere else from that first cup of coffee with a "buenas dias" to that last belt of whatever with a "buenas noches". In between were those lengthy, heartfelt conversations with family and anyone else passing by as my long-awaited time here rapidly passed, though the daily segments lingered all but endlessly feeding that Caribbean lure of lazy days with nothing to do...and all day to do it!

In planning this trip for months, there'd been quite the list of possibilities with how we'd spend this much valuable time together. My learning to rethink not wasting a single moment for "going/doing" was replaced by the same...only when it comes to "experiencing". Most of those best-laid plans never made it off the porch in lieu of the simplicity with which they lead everyday lives. And I knew I'd fully succumbed to this treasured fashion when the last few days were passing as fluidly as those final grains of sand through an hourglass...and I hadn't even made it back to nearby Isla de Saona. Nor would I.

Most visitors to Bayahibe, or anywhere in the world for that matter, will not have an inside source which allows them to move beyond the touristic mode within any destination. Likely my personal experiences here will be of little use to the average traveler. Yet, I feel compelled to share them based on enlightening the possibilities without further exploiting the people whose futures are changing before their very eyes...whether they know it or not.

Aside from the booming tourist industry which has more than awakened this coastal area and sleepy fishing village, potential development of the beautiful, age-old waterfront into an upscale marina is more than enough to erase the perceived "Don't worry - Be happy" Caribbean mentality. Whether my hosts felt or showed this, to think of what's to come disheartened and even angered me! How long before I return "home" and the family compound has been eradicated in the name of capitalistic progress? What happens to the simple way of life when it becomes complicated through modernization?

Thankfully, I had the opportunity to live life that "is" before it becomes "was". With so much time spent around the house, I dented a few gender rules helping with laundry and cleaning, and was all to eager to watch how Mami made all those wonderful meals so I could recreate them back home.

It was during these daily chores that my respect and admiration grew, and I went beyond connecting to actually bond with the females of my family; something all but culturally unheard of, whether family or friend, and is further described in my SURVIVOR-DR country journal's "God's Most Beautiful & Intriguing People" free form entry.

When physical exhaustion set in from our uneventful, yet all-day/all-night agendas, more often than not the mental and emotional highs prevented any napping. Daydreams were not in the form of sleep, but in continuing to fully embrace this foreign environment which seemed so naturally embedded within my character.

From the bed, I softly chuckled overhearing Mami's relentless scoldings for all to help keep the house in order, or from listening to the latest tidbits of village gossip whether from a passing friend or from conversations amid all the neighbors from their own backyards. One of the many roosters would seem to be calling my name, I'd reemerge, and coffee was served as if warmly starting the day...and my visit anew.

It was Saturday evening when the 30+-somethings from the block had gathered at the front porch of a neighbor's house. The children had long been put to sleep; the younger crowd off to where ever. For us so-called adults, all the necessary staples were present - the latest Antony Santos cd, Cuban cigars, the Dominican boozes of choice, and most importantly the celebrations of another day of life.

I'm not sure how long I'd been been sitting there quietly soaking up more than the rum, when the fine line between "here and there" blurred into disappearance. It was then I realized my life had changed forever and there was no looking back. Not because I'd been accepted into this tight-knit circle, but because their warmth had melted to the core of my heart allowing me to fully accept becoming a part of them beyond the way I'd always assumed and actually, taken for granted.

The smell from midnight munchie chuletas/pork chops lingered in the air...almost as thickly as the burning desire within me which prevented any sleep that night with intoxication much stronger than from anything drank. I paced the beach and abandoned village streets patiently waiting until daybreak for calling American Airlines with hopes of extending my stay for a fourth week. I can look back now and be grateful there weren't any seats available for two-half more weeks forcing me to make the most of the six days remaining.

It tantalizes yet scares me to think what would've evolved if I'd stayed that extra time? I'm still not sure when...or even if I would've returned to the States! There were any number of legitimate excuses to justify staying. Helping to further hands-on develop the Learning Center while becoming the full-time English teacher. Partnering with my boy and another friend in investment and business opportunities. Helping organize the people against the developers to at least insure they didn't get taken even if they are displaced. But no matter how "official" I try to categorize my intentions, I'm well aware of the bottom-line motive which would cause me to leave everything else behind to embark on this new, enticing way of simple living.

I've since struggled with the ironies of how unselfishly doing the right things for the greatest cause can yield such longing and emptiness as the apparent blockading sources for achieving holisitc happiness and fulfillment. For now, I AM better off in the States with access to useful networking resources and in earning my meager monthly income...which most Dominicans wouldn't see in six months. For even when the needs seem apparently insurmountable, they've shown and proven money CAN NOT buy their wealth of happiness - and this eager student is ready for graduation and prepared to accept invitations for joining their ranks and realm without all the need for succeed through greed we tend to live by in America.

The next tenative visit has been planned around a wedding though I could just as easily return today on the next flight out. Photos, videos, and even memories far too personal to describe in a journal are comforting but no substitution for the real thing in 'Living AS a Local'. And whether that eventually comes with another extended stay...or on a permanent dual-citizenship basis, I can only accept life as they do and hang on dreaming until I'm Barefoot in Bayahibe...Again.