Music Lover's New York

A trip to the Metropolitan Opera is always special. NYC is home to some terrific small venues that attract great up-and-coming bands - we especially like Roseland Ballroom, the Bowery Ballroom, and Irving Plaza.

Quick Tips:

It can be difficult to get tickets for well-known artists in New York - shows seem to sell out in a matter of minutes sometimes. Many venues have websites - check them out well in advance of your visit to see exactly when tickets will go on sale - some even allow you to purchase online.

Best Way To Get Around:

I'll always advocate the subway as the primary means of getting around town - it's not as complicated as it first appears. Taxi drivers are famous for driving erratically, don't be afraid to tell them to slow down or pull over!

Trattoria del'Arte is a bustling Italian restaurant, curiously decorated with enormous plaster body parts a la Michelangelo's "David," and featuring a antipasto bar that is to die for. They've been around for a while - my dad used to take us here when we were kids before going to Carnegie Hall (which is a block away) and we would giggle over having to sit under the large plaster breast or giant nose hanging on the wall. Now that I am grown up and relatively more mature, I can focus more on the delicious food.

As I mentioned before, they have a sinful antipasto bar - you could make an entire meal out it if you wanted to. Their bread is so good it deserves mention. They make excellent (and huge) home-made brick oven pizze - terrific to share with the table as an appetizer or to hoard for yourself as a meal. The crust is so thin and crispy - really delicious. For entrees, their chicken dishes, seafood (particularly the swordfish) and pasta dishes are all excellent. I think my family has been through just about everything on the menu over the years and no-one has had a bad meal yet. I can't talk about dessert - we tend to come here before performances at Carnegie Hall or the MET and are always running late (no fault of the restaurant). If the entrees and appetizers are any indication of the quality of the desserts, I'd say definitely go for it - it will be delicious!

Aside from the giant body parts, the decor of Trattoria del'Arte is light and airy - with yellow walls and high ceilings in the main dining area. There is also a quieter upstairs dining room that is better suited to tables of two. Their bar is well stocked - you can even get pretty good grappa (according to my father). Trattoria del'Arte is a lovely choice for a pre-Carnegie Hall meal, and you can't get a better meal any closer to the hall. It's also within walking distance of Lincoln Center.

I love this 24-hour French bistro - and it's a great place to catch a meal before or after a show at Irving Plaza, which is just a few blocks away on Irving Place. The atmosphere is very French - it looks just like a typical Parisian bistro, complete with cozy little tables, walls of glass doors (which are wide open in good weather), and a large bar that features Alsatian Fischer beer. They are as busy at 3:00 a.m. as they are at dinner or lunch time. Their menu is small, but very good. I often go for the superb roasted half chicken served with their trademark frites. My husband likes their burger with bleu cheese, and he thinks their escargot are terrific. Duck, croque monsieur (grilled ham and gruyere sandwiches) and yummy onion soup are also on the menu. The food can be heavy, so we've never made it to dessert. Definitely worth a stop!

I love the Blue Water Grill for a couple of reasons -- the food is excellent, but the real draw for me is the music that can be heard in the downstairs jazz room. One band in particular, a jazz combo called Soul Nights, is absoltely amazing. We love them so much that they even played at our wedding - they really made our party hop! The cool, smooth jazz they churn out at Blue Water is so soothing and refreshing. We'd go anywhere to hear them play, but seeing them at the Blue Water Grill is a special treat because we get to hear great sounds while eating incredible food - the whole thing is very indulgent.

A little on the food - I am partial to their roasted half chicken with garlic mashed potatoes. It's so well done and so delicious - I am getting hungry just thinking about it. Members of my family go for their seafood - grilled swordfish, grilled yellowfin tuna, lobster - they go crazy for it. They make awesome crabcakes and incredible steaks. Dessert is always terrific. They do everything well - from the appetizers and salads to the entrees and sides to dessert - they never miss. And, to top it all off, the service is excellent. We often get the same table (near the band) and therefore often have the same terrific waiter - the service is friendly and efficient and the staff is knowlegeable about the menu and how the food is prepared. You just can't miss here.

Blue Water Grill is located right on Union Square in an old bank building. It has terrific ambiance. There is also outside dining (weather permitting, although they do have heaters for chilly nights), and a cavernous dining room in the former bank's main room. Don't miss it, and say hi to Chris and Blake of Soul Nights!

Irving Plaza is a terrific small venue that attracts an eclectic mix of (I hate to use this term) rock musicians, along with some bluesy bands and sometimes bands from your high school days (I saw Madness here last year - and they were great). The Verve, the Cure, Prodigy, Live Everclear, Our Lady Peace, V.A.S.T., Tori Amos, Sonic Youth, and countless other innovative artists have played Irving Plaza.

Irving Plaza is a dark old theater, complete with a balcony and a small stage that often looks as if it won't be able to contain the musicians. There are no seats, and all tickets are general admission, so be sure to get there early if you actually want to see anything. The accoustics are pretty good. Irving Plaza is an "all ages" club - those under 16 have to be accompanied by an adult, and of course you have to be 21 to drink (there is a bar, so you can enjoy a drink during the show).

It's an understated place, and the crowd is usually pretty polite (depending who the band is). They have a quirky website that is slightly a pain to navigate, but it will tell you what you need to know: http://www.irvingplaza.com

You can get tickets at the Irving Plaza Box Office (Hours: Noon-6:30PM, M-F, 1-4PM Sat, 212-777-6800) or through that monumental rip-off, Ticketmaster (212-307-7171). There is a limit of 4 tickets per person. Irving Plaza also has a concert hotline: 212-777-1224.

Carnegie Hall is a beautiful old hall with excellent acoustics and an impressive roster of performers. It's amazing that they wanted to tear it down not too long ago! Now over 100 years old, Carnegie Hall is an important venue for classical music, as well as other genres.

I have seen several classical performances here, including a solo performances by opera great Jessye Norman. I even saw commedian Bill Cosby here (he was a riot). The sound is incredible - clear as a bell. Carnegie Hall specializes in musical performances and showcases visiting orchestras (such as the Boston Pops, the Chicago Symphony Orchestra, etc..) solo singers (such as Cecelia Bartoli) and musicians (such as Midori). They also feature several youth orchestras and performers, and every once in a while performances by such groups as the Chieftains and the Kodo Drummers of Japan will appear on the schedule.

The building was refurbished in the early 90's, in time for its centennial celebration. I highly recommend taking a tour of of the historic building - information about tours is located on Carnegie Hall's website.

If you love classical music, Carnegie Hall is the ultimate place to see a performance. The excellent acoustics, paired with the beauty and tremendous history of the hall, make for a very special experience.

Web Address: http://www.carnegiehall.org

Tower Records' mammoth store at Lincoln Center is the only record/CD store I feel is worth going to these days - with the advent of internet music shopping, I no longer see the need to go into a store just to look at CD cases. But the Tower Records at Lincoln Center is different - they have an enormous collection, representing just about every type of music you can possibly think of. They boast the largest classical music selection in the world, and the classical department staff is extremely knowledgeable and eager to help you find what you are looking for (and even what you didn't know you were looking for!). They really know their music and seem to really take pride in sharing their expertise - it is so refreshing to get that type of service in such a large store (and in New York, of all places!). I have always been very pleased with their recommendations. They can help you discern the fine points between recordings of the same piece, which is very helpful when you are faced with multiple versions of one symphony or opera and don't know how to make a choice. They even have a separate room devoted exclusely to opera alone. It's a classical enthusiasts dream.

They also have an awesome selection of classic and neo jazz cds - everything you could want. And of course, they have a huge selection of rock, alternative, techno, dance, and pop music releases, and they have a large International selection as well. There is also a VHS and DVD section. I have been visiting this store for over 20 years, but a few years ago they revamped it into a "mega" store and now its even better than ever.

The Blue Note is a jazz and blues institution in New York. If you love music, you owe it to yourself to check it out.

It's everything a jazz club is supposed to be - cramped and dark, with cosy little tables and a small stage busting with musicians. I saw Phyllis Hyman here many years ago - the tables are so close to the stage that she was taking French fries off some guy's plate in between songs. Such luminaries as the late Tito Puente, Ray Charles, B.B. King, Muddy Waters, Al DiMeola, Dave Brubeck, Maynard Ferguson, Herbie Mann, and Celia Cruz play at the Blue Note, among just about any other jazz and/or blues musician you can think of.

Tickets cost anywhere from $30-$55 per person and up depending on who is playing. They typically have two seatings per night - around 9:00 p.m. and then at 11:30 p.m. - I prefer the later seating. The musicians are warmed up and so is the atmosphere.

The Blue Note has a full dinner menu (of course, food is not included in the ticket price). I personally have never eaten anything at the Blue Note, but Phyllis Hyman seemed to enjoy the fries. The menu is priced decently enough for New York - $10 hamburger platters and $25 steaks, with lots of appetizers and some basic desserts - many of the offerings have "jazzy" names (ie: Mingus Fingus - mozzarella sticks -- you just don't forget something like that.) I prefer to eat elsewhere and just have drinks at the club.

The Blue Note is famous for it's Sunday Brunch, which I am sorry to say I have never been to myself. If you are interested, the jazz brunch goes from 12-4 with two seatings. Tickets include brunch and cost about $20.

It's best to call ahead to reserve tickets, but I have gone in spur-of-the-moment and have gotten a decent table. The Blue Note is located on 3rd St. between 6th Avenue and Macdougall. Call them at 212-475-8592, or check out their schedule online at http://bluenote.net/newyork/schedule/index.shtml

The recently renovated Roseland Ballroom has played host to a spectrum of musician and bands, including David Bowie, No Doubt, Smashing Pumpkins, Radiohead, Pearl Jam, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Green Day and Beck. As with many other "ballroom" venues, there are no assigned seats, and all tickets are general admission. Try to get there early to secure a good vantage point for yourself if you really want to see anything. Roseland is a little larger than some of the other venues in its class, but the accoustics are good and there are plenty of places to get a good view. There is a mezzanine and cash bar at most concerts.

The box office at Roseland is only open the day of the show. To purchase tickets, you have to go downtown to the Irving Plaza box office (17 Irving Place & 15th Street) or call them at 212-777-6800. You can also purchase tickets for Roseland through Ticketmaster at 212-307-7171.

Tonic is a quirky little shoebox of a club that specializes in what they term as "avant-garde, creative & experimental jazz/rock/electronic music." It's a tiny place, with tall bistro tables lining one wall and A long bar lining the other. Sometimes there are folding chairs. The best thing about Tonic is that it is so intimate - you are right there with the musicians. The stage isn't elevated, so you are literally face-to-face with the band (unless you get there late, then you are standing way in the back and can't see a thing).

We saw Michael Gira, former frontman for the Swans, here several times, and his shows rank among my all-time favorite concerts. One night, there were about 200 people in the place (and it was packed!) and Gira had a band of about 8-10 musicians playing mostly accoustic instruments. We were at a table right up front - it was as if the band was playing just for us. Very memorable. Very intimate. It is a great memory.

There is a dank basement bar that offers some private little nooks made of out of what appear to be giant wine casks - its a good place to hang out before the show.

Tonic is located on the Lower East Side at 107 Norfolk Street between Delancey and Rivington. You can take the F train to Delancey Street or the J/M/Z trains to Essex Street. Walk along Delancey towards the Williamsburg Bridge and take your first left onto Norfolk.

Check out Tonic's Website to see who's playing: http://www.tonic107.com/ or call them at 212-358-1237.

Nestled into what some people feel is a questionable neighborhood, the Bowery Ballroom is a great place to see live music. Featuring mostly "alternative" bands, the Bowery Ballroom is an old theater complete with wrap-around balcony and a small stage (much like Irving Plaza). The venue holds about 500-600 people, and there are no seats - all tickets are general admission. There are three good-sized bars - one on each level (there is also a basement lounge). If you are tall, you shouldn't have any trouble seeing the stage in this intimate venue; however, if you are short like me, be sure to get there a little early so you can secure a place upstairs along the balcony railing - it may be your only hope of seeing a thing. In my experience, the crowd has been pretty respectful - I have never seen any problems.

I have seen several amazing shows here, most notably an incredible evening with Middle Eastern singer Natacha Atlas. Brian Perry and Kristin Hersh also put on a great show. The acoustics are pretty decent. All in all, it's a very good place to see a concert. Don't let the Lower East Side discourage you - the venue is right on Delancey, and you can get dinner or drinks in the village and walk over.

Tickets and information: (212) 533-2111

CBGB is suffering from a classic case of nostalgia. Sure, it used to be cutting edge, New York's home for punk music, launching pad of the Ramones and the Talking Heads among others - a gritty shrine to alternative music. The Damned, Fishbone, D-Generation, The Jam, Blondie, Elvis Costello, the Plasmatics - they all played here in the 70s and early 80s, and it used to be a lot of fun. But now the club has become almost "Hard Rock Cafe-ized" in its own wierd way. Sure, they still get some decent bands every once in a while, but now they have a CBGB online store and a website with a chatroom where old fans can reminisce! But in spite of all the marketing and cashing in on their illustrious past, the place is still a real hole-in-the-wall. It's got to be the dirtiest club I have ever been in, and the bands that play there are no longer worth the hassle. Even though CBGB holds the "historic landmark" card, I'd skip it. Chances are, the band you want to see will be playing elsewhere sometime very soon - it's worth waiting. CBGB online: http://www.cbgb.com/club_front_page.htm Check out the "Shrine" online - it's got interesting commentary by owner Hilly Kristal about the club's heyday.

Location: Lincoln Center Between 62 and 65 Streets and Columbus and Amsterdam Avenues.

The Metropolitan Opera is one of the premiere opera houses in the world, and for very good reason. It not only attracts the biggest opera stars and conductors, but also engages incredible set designers and costumers. Attending an opera at the MET is a full-bodied experience - with all the pomp and richness one associates with opera. Most importantly, the calibur of singers is phenomenal. I have seen Pavarotti, Placido Domingo, Leo Nucci, Mirella Freni, Frederica von Stade, Jessye Norman, and countless other incredible singers perform at the MET, each time a very memorable and moving experience.

SUBTITLES!
Newcomers to opera needn't worry about not being able to understand what the singers are saying - several years ago the MET installed subtitle screens on the backs of every chair. These subtitles provide an excellent (and remarkably unobtrusive) way to follow the plots without missing any of the action.

WHERE TO SIT
Tickets to MET performances can be rather expensive, starting at $26 for seats in the Family Circle (the highest level of seating - you may wish to bring opera glasses to see the stage more clearly) and going all the way up to $250 per seat for the Center Parterre, the best seats in the house. Orchestra seats (not my favorite, since the chances of getting someone with a big head in front of you are great) go for $85-$180. Seats are slightly cheaper for week-night performances. I actually don't mind the Family Circle - for $26 you get great opera, the only drawback is that this section attracts a lot of tourists who aren't necessarily opera lovers, and they often talk and rattle candy wrappers through the performances. For a bit more money, I have noticed that the Balcony ($55 per seat on weekends, $50 weeknights) and the Dress Circle ($85/$80) have excellent views and less distracting patrons. Either way, there really are no bad views in the whole house, and accoustics are terrific no matter where you sit. For best viewing, no matter what level you choose, just be sure that you are as close to the center of the house as they can get you. If you sit on the side of the house, you're more likely to have to lean over the side of your box to get a full view of the stage.

OR STAND...
Another option is standing room - for a relatively small fee they will let you stand through a performance at designated spots in the back of the theater. Standing room tickets cost around $12-$16 and go on sale at the Box Office on Saturday mornings at 10:00 am for Saturday through the following Friday performances. Get there early, though, as the line forms quite early in the morning.

PERFORMANCES
All this expense and effort is worth it though - as the performances are generally phenomenal and they always have a very interesting schedule each season. I have seen Aida, complete with a cast of 100s and live animals onstage; I have seen La Boheme countless times, with it's gorgeous sets that replicates a Paris street scene to a tee. My favorite is Madama Butterfly, which I have also seen many times - the MET has a set of Butterfly's traditional Nagasaki home that is breathtaking. Additionally, I have seen Le Nozze di Figaro, Die Zauberflaute (amazing Queen of the Night aria!), Turandot (Eva Marton singing on an incredible set!), La Traviata (another excellent opera with gorgeous sets), Rigoletto (with Leo Nucci, and a wonderful coloratura soprano lead), Un Ballo in Maschera, Carmen (this is a great opera for beginners, with several recognizable arias and songs, and lots of action)and many others. I am rarely disappointed. The only complaint I can think of is that occasionally, an overzealous conductor will drown out the singers. This doesn't happen too often, though, so it's nothing to worry about.

HOW TO GET TICKETS
You can view the MET's season schedule and order tickets online at their efficient and easy-to-navigate website: http://www.metopera.org/home.html, or call for tickets at 212.362.6000. Log on/call as early as possible to get seats for the performances you want.

Located at Lincoln Center, between 62 and 65th Streets and Columbus and Amsterdam Avenues.

The New York City Opera is an excellent place for those not familiar with opera to get their feet wet. Founded by New York Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia as "the people's opera," the City Opera is not as expensive or intimidating as the Metropolitan Opera next door, but still provides high-quality operatic performaces in a great theater with excellent accoustics.

The City Opera is very user-friendly and has provided "Supertitles" over the stage for years to help opera-goers understand what is going on. NYCO also offers interesting lectures and pre-performance workshops that help you understand the concepts behind the operas.

NYCO also tends to be a bit more avant-garde in its offerings than the more conservative MET. They regularly stage new American operas, add twists to old familiar operas (such as re-setting the story in a different era, I once saw Carmen at NYCO set in the 1940s!), and often perform "forgotten" operas that are not usually part of standard opera house repertoires.

Staging at NYCO tends to be a bit spare compared to the opulent sets of the MET, but that is to be expected with lower ticket prices and operating costs. You will see and hear new up-and-coming singers at NYCO, many of whom will go on to become major performers at the MET and other international opera houses. In many ways, performances at the City Opera are better than those at the MET, because the singers are really trying hard to get favorable reviews, and they aren't competing with grandiose sets and conductors with inflated egos. Samuel Ramey, Sherrill Milnes, Carol Vaness, and Beverly Sills all got their start at NYCO - and all went on to be powerhouse performers on the world's most renowned opera stages.

Individual tickets prices (non-subscription) are as follows: Orchestra $92; 1st Ring $98 (best seats); 2nd Ring $75; 3rd Ring $65; 4th Ring, Rows A-B $55; 4th Ring, Rows C-0/Sides $25 (I don't recommend sides - you only see part of the stage and have to lean over the railing to get a decent view.) If you have plenty of time before coming to New York and will be here for a while, you may wish to purchase a package of tickets. Custom packages allow you to select 3-4 operas and receive a discounted price. This may not be an option if you are going to be in the city for only a short amount of time. If you are a student with ID and plan a week in advance, you are eligible to purchase two seats for the price of one (prices range from $46-$12). Just go to the Box Office or order through Ticketmaster at (212) 307-4100 check out their website. I have seen many operas at NYCO, (Carmen, Madama Butterfly, La Boheme, Die Zauberflaute and Don Giovanni come immediately to mind as excellent performances I have attended). It's a great experience, even if you don't know anything about opera. Take in the whole "opera thing" - get yourself a glass of champagne and go out on the balcony that overlooks Lincoln Center's fountain during the intermissions. It's a very enjoyable evening. Check out NYCO's website: http://www.nycopera.com

On the Great Hall balcony of the Metropolitan Museum, museum patrons can enjoy a drink and listen to a jazz ensemble or classical quartet every Friday and Saturday evening from 5-8. It is such a nice experience - the Great Hall is gorgeous, and it's a perfect way to unwind after a day at the museum or shopping uptown. Plus, the MET always chooses excellent musicians - it's a real treat! It beats Happy Hour at a noisy, crowded bar any day.

You must pay museum admission to enter the building - suggested admission for adults is $10 these days. Members get in free of charge. The museum is open till 9 on Fridays and Saturdays.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
1000 Fifth Avenue at 82nd Street
New York, New York 10028-0198
General Information: 212-535-7710