Let’s not equivocate: Rio de Janeiro is the coolest city in the world. If there’s one cooler, I’d be afraid to visit it for fear of spontaneously combusting upon arrival.
But my love of Rio is not predicated on the fabled Three S’s—sex, sand, sensuality—that form the cornerstone of its clichéd reputation. Well, not exactly. Sand? In three visits over the last 5 years, I’ve never actually set foot on a beach, though I’ve strolled—and even jogged—the famous swirly sidewalks along Ipanema and Copacabana. Both beaches are gorgeous, but I’ve heard too many stories about pipes pumping city effluent into the water. They’re probably just stories, but just in case….
As for sex, it is true in my experience that Rio has perhaps the highest concentration of heart-meltingly alluring women of any city in the world. Moreover, a majority of them are remarkably friendly and relaxed around men. But I’m not convinced that their advanced flirting skills translate into an eagerness to hop into the sack. Call me a coward—or, for that matter, a happily married man—but I’ve never tipped my toes into those waters, either.
But the sensuality—yeah, Rio’s all about that. And it’s not just the omnipresent sun. It’s also the dank, earthy fragrance of the rainforest as you’re taking the charmingly poky funicular up to Corcovado. It’s the crunch and heat of acaraje, the delectable dried-shrimp-and-manioc fritter sold by the baianas (Afro-Brazilian women from Bahia) from their makeshift kitchen at the Hippie Fair in Ipanema every Sunday morning. It’s samba, the perfect aural balance of Europe and Africa, melodic lilt and percussive throb that you hear seemingly everywhere. And it’s very much the indescribably dramatic tangerine-and-raspberry sunsets over the cliff-like mountains. Even when you tell yourself that those winking lights on the hills belong to desperately poor inhabitants of the favelas, it’s still one of the most romantic sights imaginable.
In the end, Rio isn’t a place you visit to do things or see things—although there’s plenty to do and see. It’s a place you visit in order to enter its flow, adopt its pace. It’s a place you feel. One acquaintance from my first visit there tried to explain the civic mindset by saying, “People from Rio won’t do something if there’s no pleasure in it.” That, to me. is pretty much the definition of coolness.
Quick Tips:
Although Rio’s reputation as a hotbed of muggery is exaggerated, it’s not entirely unmerited. However, chances are you won’t be traveling in the places where you and your valuables are most at risk. And besides, by taking a few simple common-sense precautions, you can see to it that Rio is no more dangerous than any major city. Dress casually—simple sport shirts or T-shirts, loose shorts or cotton pants, sandals, and for heaven’s sake no jewelry—and you’ll fit in with the crowd. Keep anything of value in your hotel safe and don’t take more than you need. That’s especially true if you’re heading for the beach, which attracts more than its share of petty thieves. (Or so I’ve heard—as I said, it’s not where I hang out.) Look like you know where you’re going. If you’re feeling unsure about the neighborhood you’re in, grab a taxi—they’re plentiful and cheap—and lock the doors once you’re inside.
Money exchange can be a bit of an inconvenience. I have sometimes found it hard to find ATMs that will take my American bank card, and banks generally won’t exchange your cash currency for Brazilian reels. Strangely enough, I have found that the simplest transactions involve trading my cash (otherwise stored securely in the hotel safe) at a travel agency. I can’t recommend one in particular, as my favorite had closed last time I stopped by. However, in my experience the rates don’t differ that much and they’re pretty close to the official rate. Moreover, there’s generally no service charge. (Ask first, though.)
Best Way To Get Around:
Honestly? Your feet. The city’s streets are so full of animation and color, of Rio’s vibrant character, that you would be missing a huge part of the experience by taking cabs everywhere.
Subways and buses work well, too, if your corns start aching. One caution about Rio I've always found needlessly paranoid is the don’t-take-public-transport rule. The subway system is quick, safe, and easy, once you figure out the system for buying and presenting tickets. And it’s far from a bad deal at a little under a dollar per ticket. The one drawback is that the subway lines aren't all that convenient to Ipanema and the heart of Copacabana, which is where your accommodations are likely to be. So you walk a little or catch a bus.
I’ve also had good luck with the bus system—in fact, you can hop buses directly to either Corcovado or Pao de Azucar (better known as Sugarloaf), then buy your tickets to these attractions directly at the site. It ends up costing signficantly less than what you’d pay going on a guided tour. Unless you want the security blanket of a group, there's no reason to bother.
And in daytime at least, the buses have always seemed perfectly safe to me. I do make sure, though, that any belongings are at hand and under control. If you’re at all apprehensive, sit close to the driver.
One other bus note: From the airport, choose the bus into Copacabana and Ipanema over a taxi. In bad traffic it can be painfully slow, granted—so will the cab, though it can change its routing. The bus will give you a real visual feel for the city as it winds its way toward the beach (though be patient—the neighborhoods just outside the airport are more than a little dispiriting). And the price is way right: three bucks or so the last time I visited, a fraction of the cost of even a fairly calculated taxi ride.