Cheap Thrills of Panamania

Mention to anyone that you're heading-off to Panama, or that you've just returned, and expect discussions to centralize towards what the country's best known for in all but mythical proportions. The Panama Canal is arguably the Western World's most fascinating, man-made novelty. Who can deny the wealth of strategic power and control coursing through its banks? Or, the grandeur of barging from one oceanic realm to another?

Concepts of discovering Panama have largely evolved from the decks of luxury cruise ships, lined-up and waiting to maneuver through the channels and locks, which summarizes the universal travel experience. Unless rut of the ditch characterizes interest, it's time for going "Man Overboard!", and certainly not to exclude the likes of women and children.

These days, Panama is more than just a heart-bypass for the Continental Americas. This serpentine isthmus is one of the hottest new destinations gracing travel lists, and for all the right reasons. 18-days only confirmed that I wanted, and needed more in this country's whereabouts that prove very demanding! Panama's potency, stemming from some of earth's most exotic ecosystems, overwhelms the most knowledgeable of outdoor fiends, and readily subdues the best-conditioned hikers, bikers and rafters; little alone the Jungle Georges like myself.



"I can't move or feel my ?"-days are about as inevitable as pushing the envelope of physical limitations for insuring not a moment of opportunity is squandered; even if it calls for hobbling around, in search of the perfect parking place from where encompassing vistas emanate rejuvenation. Necessary recovery days only complicated the already hard choices of resolving what not to do based on time constraints and mortality.

For those still hellbent on upholding perceived travel standards, here's one you'll never find in guidebooks: Locate the Panama Yacht Club, along the capital's Avenida Balboa waterfront. Hang around because yachters must register the day before planning to sail through the Canal, and need additional 4-person, volunteer crew to help with passage requirements. Not only is it free, apparently mass-consumption is involved until stumbling ashore in Colón for the public transportation ride back to Panama City.

How ever tempting, that's the extent of details for now. When hinting that Panama offers more than any traveler ever bargains for, let's just say this joy-float will be lucky to make the next To Do-list, already savoring towards an expeditious repeat!

Quick Tips:

IGo Ghetto
a day in Panama was enough shoestring to lace-up a combat boot, thanks to minimal splurges which can move someone from no-class to first-class. Cut enough corners, per day is worthy if airfare is averaged-in.

Expect the Unexpected!
The Golden Rule for travelers in Latin American applied more than ever in Panama. Not only is general information limited, it habitually ranged from lacking to contemptibly wrong! This overview reads more like a Survival Guide of essentials for the unavoidables, regardless of budget or itineraries.

The Photo Tour gives a brief glimpse into places emerging as popular destinations. Entire vacations could be spent in any one of these areas, with still not enough time to exercise the unlimited opportunities. Specifics will eventually include:

Bocas del Toro
Boquete
Parque Nacional Volcán Barú
Parque Nacional Soberanía
Panama City

Each of these will have a Natural Twist, including pros/cons between setting-off on your own, taking organized excursions, or hiring private guides. Expect to meet a familiar face; someone that specializes in making sure you'll have the times of your life!

Suggestions

Familiarize yourself with pertinent locations pin-pointed on guidebook maps. Beyond general ideas, diagrams are understandably suspect when streets have yet to be named in most rural towns, and corner street-markers are scarce beyond Panama City's major thoroughfares. In most cases, there are no specific address listings for hotels and restaurants. Directions often involve correlation to landmarks.

For mementos, if something catches your eye, buy it! Options were scant, selections even more limited. I made the mistake of waiting until the end to prevent hauling things around. Panama City tourist-shops were nonexistent, local markets containing the same mass-quantities of indigenous pottery, carvings and decorative molas. They'll barter down to nothing in desperation to make any sale. Pay a fair price; it's their livelihood.

To best appreciate Panama City, begin itineraries there. Tranquil qualities throughout rest of the country only exacerbated the harrowing capital. Two days covers the "must see" attractions. If touring the nearby Canal or basin National Parks, anticipate a longer stay. Accommodation options are limited in these areas.

Best Way To Get Around:

From Tocumen International Airport, most travelers head for Albrook's National Transportation Complex.

Quick domestic flights depart from Aeropuerto Albrook on Aeroperlas. The San Blas and Pearl islands, and deep into the Darién Province are only reachable by limited flights; advanced reservations recommended.

Public transportation doesn't serve the domestic airport. For savings, take a bus to the Bus terminal, then a taxi. The airport is beyond the Albrook Shopping Center.

Albrook Terminal Nacional Transporte is Panama's modern bus terminal for routes throughout the country. Food courts anchor a hallway lined with shops and ticket windows. Destinations are grouped by regions. Several agencies operate side-by-side; variances only in companies and departure times, not prices.

Shorter routes are on school buses or 40-passenger vans. Long-hauls use luxury motorcoaches with restroom, entertainment systems and frigid air-conditioning; dress appropriately! Departures leave from lower level; arrivals unload on upper levels. Taxis and Panama City buses are outside along roadway separating the mall.

Also know that:

The bus terminal does not have luggage storage as Lonely Planet suggests. Plan departures accordingly.

There's a 5¢ departure tax on ticketed routes; exact change needed. Entering restrooms requires 25¢.

For motorcoaches, passengers are assigned seats, with freedom to relocate when there's room. Luggage is tagged, stowed and only reclaimable with matching stub.

Depending on route, one or two 30-minute stops are made at roadside plazas with cafeterias.

Long-hauls include a daily 10-hour trip to Almirante/Changuinola for Bocas del Toro boats. David has numerous departures, with transfer service to Boquete. 6-hour, express buses depart at 10:45pm/midnight. Regular daytime buses make additional stops; the 7-8-hour trip, .60.

Unpublished Discovery: Direct David buses depart between 2:00-3:00pm on various lines, making express runs for .60. If flights into Panama arrive around noon, this is a viable option with no place to store luggage while waiting for later buses. Have a David plan ready! Schedules were hit-and-miss on LP's last Boquete departure listed for 9:30pm.

Car Rental Agencies are everywhere though few travelers drive. Panama's roadways are modern with good conditions. Most vehicles require diesel, averaging .80 in 4/06; gasoline, .20. Fuel is sold by the gallon; about the only measurement not based on metrics.

A 5/15/06 nationwide public transportation strike was in direct protest to rising fuel costs. Expect fares to increase!

With no shortages of places to stay within the country, the bulk of Panama's establishments lean towards "low-end" budget travelers. However, rarely do they have websites or advertisements. Lonely Planet's strong-point is listings of budget accommodations, but 2- or 3-sentence descriptions don't offer much insight. Based on what's actually found, sometimes you'll wonder if author ever visited; little alone stayed. April '06 high-season prices hadn't increased much, if any from low-season rates quoted in LPs 2004 Panama edition.

Solo travelers definitely end-up paying more. A standard room with double bed, priced $15 a night for two, will likely cost $10 for one. Rooms, with an additional single or double bed, usually rise by $5 per additional person. In most cases, rate differences were insignificant for having private bathroom vs. shared. Backpacker dorm beds also aren't much cheaper than private rooms.

The greatest factor to remember is that Latin American standards of "acceptable" often don't jibe with travelers from developed parts of the world. Not only are frequent Hispanic guests prone to destructive habits, business owners are rather oblivious to wear and tear on facilities that may have been shoddy to begin with, regardless of rating-class and prices.

When possible, ask to see several rooms but check beyond visuals. Box-springs are scarce, and mattresses on wooden slats can be uncomfortable. Pillows varied from soft to lumpy. Worn bedding is inevitable, and fitted sheets easily slip off. Towels ranged in sizes, from plush to sandpaper.

When traveling in Panama, also keep these things in mind:

Few places accept anything but cash payments. Discounts for extended stays are also rare. The 10% hotel tax is always included in rates, but not in hotel restaurant prices.

Rooms weren't hard to find without reservations, though high-season and holiday travelers will want to consider them. In heavily touristed areas, such as Bocas del Toro, Western Union reservation deposits are required. My biggest peeve with reservations is not only do they bound travel schedules to specific dates and times, but also that better locations and cheaper options may be sacrificed with the unseen commitments.

1pm check-in times are negotiable for early arrivals based on availability. Check-out time is lazily, 3pm.

Never under-estimate noise factors; especially with rooms facing streets. Back-of-the-house is preferable; ear plugs still highly recommended. Never did I find a room with a clock or alarm; wastes of electricity when birds give 5am wake-up calls!

In outlying areas, most guesthouses have community kitchens. With such inexpensive eateries, marketing and cooking would seem unnecessary vacation tasks. Some pensions served meals for under $3.

A "push" is what Panamanians call places that rent rooms by the hour. In Panama City, they're almost unavoidable, even in the most unlikely establishments, but discretion never compromised privacy of normal guests. Red lights and odd placement of mirrors don't cost extra in addition to standard amenities, including X-laced cable and sufficient air-conditioning for when things really heat-up.

Photos are "small" examples with private bath, destination reviews to come.

Budget conscious travelers won't go hungry in Panama even if food expenses are at the bottom of priority lists. Feasting on three squares a day has real potential, and if ever paying more than $4 for any spread, you've gone to the wrong place! Options are minimal for those looking to have finer dining experiences, where additional costs have more to do with location, atmosphere and presentation than quality and portions of basically the same types of foods. Otherwise, never has my proven formula paid-off with such savings:

Look for the Locals + Live like the Locals = Twice the Cultural Experience at Half the Cost

In a country where minimum wage is still $1.25 an hour, it was almost a challenge to load-up a plate that broke the $3 price-range. The bulk of local restaurants are designed around cafeteria-style buffets, where patrons slide trays along the rail while drooling at the endless selections laid-out before them. Popular eateries are open 6am to 11pm. When it comes to Panamanian cooking, it's middle of the road for typical Latin American cuisine; not heavily seasoned as in the Caribbean, but certainly not as bland like found in northern Central America.

Breakfast options center around eggs, usually scrambled or hard-boiled, and versions of chorizo sausage or weiners; grilled, smoked, or boiled in a flavorful red sauce. Thick slices of a lite white cheese in the mornings are perfect with items available at all meals. Hojaldre is the fried equivalent to bread, which can also be dusted with sugar like a donut.


Breakfast; $1.75
Other all-day favorites are empanadas; spicy meats, fruit or cheese fried inside cornmeal patties, or carimañola with similar fillings inside ground and boiled yuca cakes. Another new find worth trying at least once are bolitas de carne; large ground-beef meatballs that are seasoned, and a little dry by themselves. Ask for a bottle of ketchup. Whatever they add made this one of the sweetest and most flavorful condiments I've ever tasted, and was something to get excited about!

For lunch and dinner, beef or chicken concoctions dominate entree selections, and are often available for breakfast, too. Seasoned pork roast was a rare treat compared to frequently found chuletas (pork chops). And, there's always at least one fish selection; typically sectioned white fish, either fried or boiled, and with plenty of small bones to watch out for. Seafoods, including shrimp, crab and lobster dishes, are also usually available by order, and garlic-grilled trout (trucha) was always worth the extra wait as some of the very best I've ever had.


Dinner of side items; $3

Vegetarians will enjoy the basic staple accompaniments including rices (colored has meat), beans, and other legume dishes. Pasta selections were also common. Every now and then, mashed potatoes and a jazzed-up potato salad were available. Vegetables, unless stewed with meats or pastas, and roughage greens and salads are hard to find which can cause constipation based on the standard diet. An abundance of fresh fruits are only available from grocery stores and street vendors.

Ceviche is supposedly Panama's "must-try" specialty of either raw shrimp (camarones) or corvina pickled in the acidic juices of lime and onion. ( * Note that in Panama, corvina is the term for a popular white fish; not seabass). While the local ceviche wasn't nearly as flavorfully loaded as like found in Venezuela, it's still something I recommend trying. Availabilities are usually listed as appetizers, but it's more commonly found in bars as a lite meal or snack. Typically, a serving of the corvina cost $2, shrimp $2.50.

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In Latin America, the greatest Spanish language variances involve food terms. Lonely Planet has a seperate Food Vocabulary section worth taking a look at. The bonus of cafeteria-style dining is to see what looks good without needing to know what it's called. "¿Qué es esto?" (what is this), is a helpful phrase if able to understand responses. Otherwise, just smile and point.

* In addition, what LP lists as buffets are not to be confused with the gluttonous all-you-can-eat versions. They're once-through-the-line cafeterias.

When dining in cafeteria-style eateries, popularity usually insures foods stay fresh with ongoing replenishments. However sometimes during off-hours, meat selections look a little dried out which compomises tenderness. Restaurant employees won't mind when asking if a fresh batch is coming anytime soon. Otherwise, choose something else.

Long-haul bus rides always include stops at roadside plazas which have large cafeterias. Keep this in mind as a convenient dining option if driving in a rental car.

Panaderias are the bakery shops you'll likely smell before you see. Large servings of cakes, cobblers, sweet breads, and dessert-style goodies are always priced under $1, and guaranteed better than what you'll find in restaurants. They're also great as breakfast alternatives.

Shunning fast-food restaurants at home, little alone while on the road, Panama does have a chain worth mentioning. Pío Pío is the much-improved local version of KFC; great for picking-up snacks for the road, or in-house dining. Flavorful fried chicken, available by the piece, bucket or value combo meals, appears expensive compared to loaded platters with odds and ends. 4 chicken livers (hígados) or 8 hearts (corazons or chichas) go for 35¢. Empanadas, carimañolas and hojaldres range from 20¢ to 40¢ each. Rather than paying 85¢ for a small portion of fries, try the large strips of fried yucca; 4 for 15¢ Throw-in a large fresh fruit juice, and still escape for under $3.

Beyond the always interesting browses found in foreign supermarkets, Panama has a couple of major chains that will likely come in handy at some point. 99-Cent is equivalent to Wal-Mart Super Centers with a bit of everything, and is the commonly found grocery store in Panama City. The most convenient one is in the Albrook Mall, across from the National Transportation Center. Prices are higher than the name suggests, but still cheap. They're open from 9:30am to 9:30pm. Romero was the most prevalent supermarket found in outlying areas; open 24-hours though alcohol sales stop at 11pm.

Both of these stores had inexpensive in-house panaderias with available seating,. and 99-cent also has a deli and limited cafeteria buffet as a potential dining alternative. * Best Buy -- 20-pack assortment bags with small packages of chips, cookies, granola bars, and crackers for $1.89; great for the hotel room, hiking trail, or when making long-hauls.

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Bottoms-Up on Beverages
Panamanians are proud to announce that American influence brought them the first potable tap water in Latin America. Not only bacteria free, it tastes good! In stores, bottled water is about the most expensive cold beverage. Unless digestive systems are prone to sensitivity, conveniently refill bottles as you go.

Panama's off-shore islands, including Bocas del Toro, are the only places where tap water is undrinkable.

Coke products out-number Pepsi, but with so many fruit juices, soft-drinks take a back-seat. Whether fresh-squeezed or processed, expect some of the richest, sweetest blends that can also be whipped into inexpensive fruit smoothies called a batido. The country's other signature drink is coffee, grown on highland plantations. Cups average 35¢ in eataries, but specialty coffee bars are growing in popularity, with prices you'd expect paying.

Panama produces several brands of rum, but their unique homebrew is called Seco; a clear liquor distilled from sugarcane. First whiffs conjur Everclear flashbacks, but harshness fades too quickly when mixed with fruit juices. Pints go for $2.50; half-pints $1.50. Convenient "taste tests" come with Seco Ice; premixed blends sold in cans for $1.00.

Panama has four types of local beers: Soberana, Panamá, Balboa, and Atlas, with the later being more preferred as a heavier, more flavorful lager. In local bars and cantinas, pitchers cost $2.50, bottles are 40¢, and popular promotions include three bottles for $1. Beer prices rise in stores and restaurants.

Between extreme heat and physical activities that induce profuse sweating, dehydration readily lurks! Mass-intake of water and juices should exceed caffeine and alcohol consumption for any given day.

Panama has an open-container law against drinking in public that is strictly enforced.

Smoking is banned in all public places including open-air restaurants and bars.

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Remember Venezuela?
If so inclined, wafting scents propose that legendary Panama Red and Gold Bud are readily available, guaranteed to leave one speechless! Hell, I'd just checked into a room and was appreciating the aroma therapy, when owner knocked and asked if I was smoking? Expected reprimand turned out to be disappointment when they found nothing to share. Casual attitudes are further reconciled by widespread legalization propoganda. Marijuana storage boxes, pipe-holders and trays dominated hand-crafted selections in airport giftshops.

Long-haul travelers reported $25 an ounce, and were eager to share like there was no tomorrow. Passing around something with fellow travelers is one thing; doing so with locals quite the other. Especially in drug-scene-driven places like Bocas del Toro, laced joints and spiked drinks are common for preying upon unsuspecting travelers. You've been advised!

Think nothing of traipsing through secluded, jungle-ladened mountains, and stumbling into a family reunion at a picturesque clearing. Or, checking into a beachside hotel that's running full-tilt, and finding you're the only foreigner. Panamanians have long-known how to appreciate where they proudly call home, now they're eager to share it with rest of the world.

Panama is justly being promoted as the last hidden gem of the America's; the land of natural wonders, and far beyond the Canal now often touted as 8th Wonder of the World. With such billings of enticements, it won't be undiscovered for long. Over the last decade, Panama tourism has experienced steady growth as travelers are finding there's hordes of opportunities beyond just passing through on a cruiseship.

With barely a century of recognition as an independent nation, government administrations have repeatedly fallen into corruptions and turmoils that have plagued all Latin American countries. On-going interference by the United States, claiming to protect local interests, has only worsened situtations; attention-grabbing headlines often painting even less favorable pictures. Conditions have somewhat stablized since the 1989, U.S.-led invasion ousted Manuel Noriega, and doubtful speculations have remained ongoing since Americans relinquished control of the canal in 1999. Greatest criticisms currently stem from disreputable government officials prospering from natural resources being sacrificed to highest bidders for developments. Hardly perfect, but ready or not, Panama has jumped full-fledged on the tourism bandwagon that's recklessly rambling through Central America.

Rueben Blades, a Grammy-winning Salsa artist that placed 3rd in the '94 presidential elections, is Panama's new Minister of Tourism. Using a Harvard education and global industry know-how, changes have been obvious while long-preparing for this trip. Even more advantageous to travelers, gradual attraction modifications include replacing Spanish-only references with bilingual information; as if catering to Americans which have always dominated tourism numbers. Nevertheless, there's still a long ways to go in all guest-related areas compared to expected standards found in more experienced countries.

IPAT is acronym for the national tourism bureau that has websites in Spanish and English. They present a glossy general overview of the country, but are rather lacking in specifics; especially anything helpful to budget travelers. Around the country, they operate tourist information centers desginated as a Cefati on signs and maps. Rarely was there information beyond what's already known, don't expect much if any English; printed or oral.

When it comes to local information, accuracy should always be considered. Panamanian perceptions are further crippled with lackings for attention to detail.

Other Internet Resources

LANIC is a jackpot of information compiled through the University of Texas Latin America Information Center. Not only are portal lists helpful for tourist-related links, broad categories further inform, educate and prepare travelers.

The Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute is Mother Nature's lingering "big brother" with useful information regarding local facilities, tours and environmental issues.

Panama Info is a more polished version of IPAT websites; usefulness depends upon preferences.

Anymore, travel-related advertisements bury official websites in general searchmode results, specific keyword usage very beneficial for numerous operations specializing in hiking, biking, and other outdoor-related activities. Most websites don't list rates; those which do are often outdated. Queries were usually answered within 48-hours. It never hurts to write in Spanish and English; responses typically in Spanish.

Panama's newest hot spots are in western sections near Costa Rica. Search both countries for additional results. Many excursion companies are headquartered across the border.

Spanish speakers: Panama chatrooms are questionable for accurate information, but were helpful preparing for language variances.

Travel Guidebooks
Not once did I meet travelers that solely came to Panama. Everyone was on extended Central American tours; European youth, and plenty of middle-aged Americans enjoying adventures while trying to find where to permanently relocate before "said" U.S. economy collapses. Conversations based on travel experiences turned-up valuable information. For what it's worth, there was general consensus involving two tell-tale factors:

1. Of Central American countries, Panama was the favorite including over comparable Costa Rica which had lost appeal to overdevelopment.



2. They all had either experienced, or heard of, misfortunes from using the travel guidebook known as Liar's Planet throughout the Central American circuit!

Yes, almost laughable except that my first-day plans had already gotten turned upside-down within hours of arriving thanks to insufficient or inaccurate information.

For Panama travelers, guidebook options are limited. Wading through searchmode results was about equal to a print-out from Barnes & Noble availabilities. Of 18 titles, Lonely Planet and Moon Travel were the only guidebooks with Panama editions. Five series had condensed Panama chapters in bulky Central American editions unnecessarily hauled. Remaining titles were indepth guides for birdwatchers and naturalists; hardly useful to average travelers.

With LP's 2001 2nd edition already purchased in 01/04 at listed price of $16.99, the 3rd edition, published in 11/04 and costing $21.99, was already likely outdated in 01/06. Yet, the latest edition was justifiable with Panama's rapid growth in tourism, and emergence of website links. I'll give LP credit; they've always kept budget travelers in mind while covering obscure sites and locations that upscale-guidebooks never bother with. Ample listings have always been good for general ideas; brief description actualities expected to be hit-and-miss. However, never had I encountered so many blatant descrepencies and vague details that one could never anticipate until too late.

Thorough coverage of Panama was obviously made for their 1st edition released in '99, which I haven't seen. Differences between 2nd/3rd editions included changing authors, rearranging content placement/format, rewriting section intros, adding hot lists, new photos, and of course upping the price. New guidebook? Hardly, when the remainder of content is word-for-word from the old edition, including for what travelers need the most -- accommodation, dining and activity descriptions!

The entire process of maintaining an updated travel guidebook is a job not desired or envied. With rapid changes and developments in the travel industry, further compounded by erratic local tendencies, guidebooks for Panama and Latin America would seem impractical. Even if a team of writers regulary scoured the country trying to verify and update listings, by the time information was compiled, rewritten and published, it's already obsolete. That's understandable; republished misrepresentations and gross errors aren't, and they'll be clearly pointed out in all Panama-related entries to hopefully spare others from similar frustrations.

Perhaps there's hope. Bradt is the new darkhorse in travel guidebooks that never appeared in searchmode results, bookstore index lists, or on midwest shelves. IGO guide Hobwahid mentioned this series as a welcomed alternative to Middle Eastern countries usually covered only by LP. The author's featured synopsis of Panama was hilariously exact, and the 3/05 1st edition had already undergone revisions re-released 8-months later. A copy has already been ordered for my return visit.

Finding any practical, readable, even semi-accurate map of Panama City will be absolutely priceless.

Spread the Word!
Travelers weren't the only ones soured by LP's faulty efforts. Local business owners also had plenty to say about short-sided descriptions, screwed-up contact information, and getting ignored as reputable competitors in favor of only listing the top agency in their field. With review websites on the increase about as rapidly as guidebooks are obviously loosing effectiveness, it wasn't hard working IGOUGO into any conversation.

Word of mouth, through personal contacts, is the most affective form of marketing. It's not about bonus points awarded through the Takin' it to the Streets campaign, or even personal gain. Representation by putting the word out, through any given situation, promotes the type of growth that reproduces itself while benefiting everyone involved. Or, it can spread just as cancerous like the whole LP ordeal proves.

Travelers and business owners were very curious; asking for a business card easily replaced when writing information, or pulling-up the website and letting them look around. Presentation stems from the volunteer perspective while emphasizing anyone can also participate. It speaks for itself, so don't try and disguise status as anything else. Explanation of free advertisement, based on writing honestly about the overall experience, never earned a discount or freebie, nor should it ever be expected! As for how many will further access the site; actually register, write journals, read mine or yours? Who knows, but the number from no effort made is a guaranteed zero!

If so inclined:

Contact a staff member for a free t-shirt. It makes billboarding comfortable, and people will ask. Maybe sometime we'll spot each other passing in major airports.

Don't make any promises you're not prepared to keep. Individuals might forget you, but chances are they'll remember mention of IGO. This reflects poorly on everyone!

Gather and follow-up with contact information. Especially after writing entries, an e-mail with appropriate link is valuable feedback to owners; whether positive or negative, and other travelers enjoy the shared experiences. Plus, it draws them back into the website.

In Panama, some business owners provided valuable information. I encouraged them to write journals, and will further endorse them as reliable local contacts if they do.

Geographically Speaking
Panama is best known as the isthmus connecting the Americas, but it befalls in such a way that even the earliest explorers documented directional confusions. While North and South America extend in the directions their names suggest, Panama abruptly snakes from west to east with Pacific Ocean to the south, and Caribbean Sea, (locally referred to as the Atlantic), to the north. Nothing in Panama seems to extend with any true objective course in favor of angling towards the country's irregular shape. Beginning from the arrival aerial tour on, my trusty inner-tracking device never reset causing frequent disorientations.

Bring a compass; especially if planning to hike without a local guide. Immenseness of mountains and jungles swallows hikers into trails which weave just as precariously. Provided bearings were on-point to begin with, positioning of the sun may be the only indicator of which way you're headed, and that alternative vanishes on cloudy days. While most trails are well-marked, provided information along the way proves itself contradictory and unreliable.

In Panama City, growth of the capital has conformed to sweeping arc of the bay. Cerro Ancón and the skyline loose any usefulness as visible reference points thanks to the complex infrastructure of thoroughfares, which become even more confusing with how they circle and double-back for major intersections.

Getting turned-around was unforgivably easy, including boarding buses headed the wrong way. Until gathering some wits about lay-out of the city, avoid trying to catch frequent buses which pass through Plaza Cinco de Mayo, as Lonely Planet suggests. There's nothing to indicate which way any of them are headed.

Seasonal Deluges
Ridged by the Continental Divide, Panama has two sets of climates based on which side of the mountains you find yourself. On the northern Caribbean side, rain is prevalent year-round. For the southern Pacific side, precipitation levels are much lower but don't be fooled by parched landscapes. Drenchings can occur at anytime.

High-season travel coincides with the dry season along Pacific-side areas south of the mountain chain. Rainfall is less frequent during the months of January-April, and only three times did it rain during almost three weeks there. But when it did, torrential rains lasting a couple of hours, were more than enough to confirm that travel during the wet season could be absolutely miserable!

Panamanians refer to the 8-month rainy season as "winter", and think nothing of going about their business amid ongoing downpours. Absence of umbrellas on the streets suggests their uselessness. At the very least, travelers should carry a rain poncho with them at all times. Once skies started darkening within any direction, there was about a 90-minute opportunity for returning to hotels or finding a spot to take elongated cover.

Even when sunshine was piercing through rainforest canopies, breezes shook-down light showers from moisture collected during overnight rainfall. Dry-season hikers will still find rainforest and mountain trails somewhat muddy; appropriate trail mudders indispensable during the wet season.

Environmental Diversities
With scores of beach, mountain, rainforest, waterway, and city encounters waiting to be had, travel itineraries largely dictate the types of clothing needed. Extreme heat warrants the tropical-influenced wardrobe expected when in coastal areas and the canal valley, but head inland towards the mountains, and temperatures can rapidly taper-off.

Panama's most dramatic stretches of mountains extend from the canal, west to the Costa Rican border. Highland villages of El Valle, Santa Fe, and Boquete are destinations which shouldn't be missed. How long you plan to stay in any of these places determines what to bring. For day trips, a light jacket, (preferably waterproof), is a welcomed accessory for cloudy or rainy days. Those planning to hunker-down for awhile will need better preparations. Elevations reach 3478-meters/11,500-feet, and night-time temperatures can drop to near-freezing; especially during extended rainy periods with absence of sunshine.

Sweat-top hoodies and cottons, including jeans, lose effectiveness when absorbing moisture. Mountainous areas are predisposed towards heavy, late-afternoon drizzle. Long-sleeved shirts are conveniently layered with t-shirts for additional warmth, and zippable cargo pants help curb packing with two clothing options in one, and are usually made from water resistant material. Flannel pajama bottoms should also be considered, though cold-natured people may prefer sweatpants. While highland accommodations most generally have hot-water showers, there's no such thing as heat, and flimsy blankets are more like bedspreads.

Step-by-Step
Selecting appropriate footwear is probably the most important packing decision since versatility of selections prevents having to overload luggage. 6-months before leaving, I began breaking-in a pair of Nike Air Austera WS cross-country training shoes, that I highly recommend. Ankle-high support certainly helped when falters along trails simply rolled ankles, and the water-proof shell zips over laces to further block moisture. For seasonal hiking when rain and mud-depths are minimal, these stayed dry. They also wipe-clean as a casual-dress alternative, and were quite comfortable while pounding city pavements.

The only foot problems were not because of shoes, but from the standard athletic socks worn with them. Trekking more than 25km on some days, it didn't take long for discomfort and small blisters to develop in the bends of toes. Avid hikers are probably already aware of this but for greenhorns that aren't, there are specially-designed hiking socks, with reinforced toe-lines which help prevent this problem, and certainly worth any investment.

For beaches and coastal areas, standard flip-flops suffice unless there's any amount of exploring to be done beyond the sands. Water-proof sandals, that strap around back of the foot or ankle, are certainly more practical. Otherwise, feet slide right out of treadless-topped flip-flops when there's any grade to walking Not only is this unnecessarily risky, it could also strand someone barefoot from a broken thong.

Especially when hiking through National Parks which border the Canal, it never hurts to have the sandals attached to, or inside backpacks. Crossing through rivers and streams is frequently necessary. Otherwise, sogginess and potential ruin of other types of footwear is to be expected.

While not a user of sunscreen, I was into a second stick of lip balm with a high SPF-factor. Sun exposure was minimal on hiking trails, but winds quickly dry-out lips and skin. In coastal areas, off-shore islands and cities, roasting is inevitable. Even with a month's worth of daily fake-bakes before leaving, expect facial peelings, and on shoulders from where backpack weight further irritates skin.

Airlines have finally gotten serious about enforcing carry-on luggage sizes and limits. The standard collapsible duffel, that I've carried-on for years, was no longer acceptable and had to be checked. It also didn't arrive until two flights after I did for the overnight layover in Miami; not what any traveler needs when preparing to leave the country on the following day! Smaller luggage that can be carried-on, and packing less is the only way to avoid this potential nightmare.

Overpacking can be prevented by using laundry service; especially if planning to travel for extended periods. In Panama, some accommodations had on-site washer and dryer available for guests, or offered inexpensive laundry service. Otherwise, a lavandería laundromat was never hard to find.

It is against the law for a male to go shirtless in Panama's streets, including beach communities.

As a general rule, Panamanian styles of dress lean towards the conservative, but shorts and tank-tops are becoming more acceptable as everyday-wear for men, and weren't taboo for travelers entering official buildings or houses of worship. Willing women are not only encouraged, but applauded for dressing slinky; the sure-fire way for female travelers to warrant attention, regardless of intention.

Obvious name-brand clothing, or items emblazoned with logos or professional sports teams, not only labels nationality but may also target individuals for unnecessary harassments, if not theft. Dressing-down to the extreme of sloppiness will get you noticed just as quickly. Comfortable but neat attire on the generic side, is the best approach for trying to blend-in. And as always when traveling—if you can't afford to loose it, leave it at home!

Places are often remembered by the Faces encountered along the way, and impacts they've made on overall travel experiences. How these make-or-break attributes are characterized is often what separates the travelers from the tourists, whether diving head-first into local culture or preferring seclusion within a private resort, guaranteed to be staffed with nationals. Either way, idiosyncrasies are unavoidable anywhere beyond the confines of home.

"Simple to a fault" is one of the nicer ways to describe the general population of Latin America, and the people of Panama precisely corroborate every stereotype probably ever heard of, or faced if acquainted with traveling in this part of the world. Realistically, they come by their tendencies honestly. Widespread poverty misconstrues local perceptions and priorities, while a lack of education and employment training further bolsters incidents and criticisms.

¡Se hable Español! It's Panamá
Travelers are in for a rude awakening if hoping that English is widely spoken as information claims. Even in tourist areas that have numerous expat-owned businesses, the majority of on-hand employees are Spanish-speaking Panamanians. Desk clerks may have limited bilingual skills. Otherwise, expect nada!

English is offered in local schools, just as Spanish classes are available in the U.S., but consider how much knowledge is retained beyond classrooms? More revealing, locals are no more eager to sound foolish using a broken second language, than travelers are. Language skills quickly fade without daily usage; be prepared to use a double-edged measuring stick when it comes to inevitable communication break-downs, and that also includes those which have a better grasp on the language.

Spanish varies as widely as does English in basic vocabulary and pronunciations. Country, regional and local colloquialisms stretch boundaries even further. Panamanians speak with a melodic cadence resembling Spain's motherland tongue, and quickly pegged my clipped speech patterns from the Caribbean. While never thought possible, Panamanians can out-talk islanders when it comes to rapid-fire deliveries! Hable más despacio, por favor, "speak more slowly, please" is elementary.

A thankfulness for being able to roughly communicate also prompted wondering how travelers manage without some basic skills; especially after timely interpretations helped defuse some travelers' nasty outbursts. Panama, or any Latin American country, should not be avoided just because of potential language barriers, but some basic preparations will sure help make a difference.

Burden of communication skills fall on the visitor, not the national! Faltered attempts are better than nothing at all. Making any effort generally receives one in return. At times out of habit, I'd forget and approach someone with English. Obvious reactions were very different based in fear, intimidation, and assumed inferiority.

Phrasebooks are more practical than dictionaries, most guidebooks have useful basics. Don't just read; say things out-loud. Memory recall is more important than correct pronunciation. Conversations are usually directed around obvious situations where native speakers will figure out what you're trying to say.

Don't just prepare by learning which questions to ask. Otherwise, responses carry no significance, regardless of simplicity.

Patience is in order! Consider how much frustration can impede communication when speaking with someone in the same language. Never under-estimate personal demeanor and body language. They convey the same messages everywhere.

Taming Travelers' Misconceptions
Once the ice is broken, regardless of how well you do or don't speak the language, these socially-driven people can melt any differences through charm, hospitality, and even a protective mother-hen fussiness just trying to be helpful. In Panama City and places where there might be safety risks, expect to be repeatedly approached by strangers offering genuine concerns of ¡cuidate!, be careful! Stuck in David late one night, bar patrons felt it their duty to summarize every potentially unsafe location nearby.

Larger metropolitan areas do have a level of sinisterism you'd expect to find in any city, and drug-infested Bocas del Toro certainly raises cause for awareness. Common sense and local advisories will more than alleviate risk factors, while remainder of the country embraces the pleasantries of "smallville" in a very large way.


Hospitality; All in a Day's Work
Take-off walking through any rural area, in search of bountiful exotic plants and wildlife, and don't be surprised to end-up feeling like the rare sighting! Unpretentious peasants are more than curious with stares, which quickly include smiles if given cue. Willingness to engage in conversation is customary politeness. Readily posing for the camera, or offering something to drink is all part of efforts to make even a passing guest feel welcomed

It's common courtesy to always acknowledge individuals with a Buenas, (Panamians rarely attach dias, tardes, noches), or simple Hola. This applies beyond when entering a room. Locals on the street appear reluctant to make eye-contact because travelers are accustomed to keep right on walking. Speaking first always nets a response.

Social informalities are the backbone of local interaction; even when it's time for getting down to business. Most travelers, from their "barge right in"-cultures, skip small-talk based on stating cause, with expected outcomes now/ahora. Latinos may live in the moment, but ahorita, in a little while, is their time-table for actually doing things. As if that's not potentially frustrating enough, wait until desired action has been questionably fulfilled.

Panama's REAL Adventures
The proclivities of Hispanic mannerisms still never cease to baffle and catch me off-guard; even with ongoing-exposure through related living and travel situations. There's simply no way to describe or prepare for lifestyles which tend to grate against everything contemporary societies value as acceptable behavior. If it's any consolation, look beyond potential melt-downs to realize these care-free people seem to exist without stress, regardless of how much they tend to generate in foreigners. Good-natures not only include laughing at their own mistakes, but also a generous "forgive and forget" honor system that spares nonconformists further embarrassment.

Beyond money matters, anything else that relies upon quantitative calculations is largely irrelevant to the local population. This includes for measurements of time and distance; the elements for issuing directions, written or oral. Situations are further compounded with a general lack of attention for details, and potential language barriers. Confusing? Let me count the ways...

1. ¿Donde está...? Where is-questions are smoking guns often firing blanks! In smaller towns, where streets have no names, locals often can't tell you where something is; especially for tourist-geared places they've never had need to acknowledge. In larger cities where cabs are easier, insightful drivers are also hit-and-miss.



2. Pulling-out maps in rural areas are sure to impress. Chances are, it's the first anyone has ever seen.



3. Latinos have a round-about way of doing things, which includes giving directions. Expect everything to be about "10-minutes" away, whether walking or driving. Just because 30-minutes has passed, and you're still searching, doesn't mean you're off-course.



4. Frequently reconfirm everything! A local might rattle-off something they know nothing about rather than appear unhelpful with no answer.



5. Trail-markers can also be unreliable. Along one popular route, posted distances progressed for one direction, but remained the same for two consecutive signs heading the other way. Discrepancies further persisted with different entry fees posted on opposite trailheads.



6. Business hours and transportation schedules are most unreliable early/late in the day. Aim for in-between. Don't expect prearranged appointments or transfer pick-ups to be on-time. Unfashionably late is the local mode of operation.



7. Slow, inattentive customer service was nothing new, but here's one to let your conscience be your guide... Several lesser-attractions were pay-as-you-exit with staff dozing, absent, or absorbed. Once, I sandwiched three counter approaches around browses of a small museum and gift-shop (either ripe for quick-pickin's). It still took a stern "¡Mida!", look here, to break-up chit-chat in the back-office within obvious-view of the lobby! For me, paying $1 to support the worthy cause was important, but it's understandable if someone kept right on walking, with pockets and backpacks full.

First Date; a Tell-Tale Scenario
Beyond frustrations, local peculiarities can prove downright hilarious! Laughter is the recommended tranquilizer for preserving any type of balance against the wacky predicaments Panamanians can get themselves into, and think nothing of dragging everyone else along for the ride, literally.

Most locals will stop to offer roadside assistance; exactly what my driver did during a major downpour when approaching a semi-rig that had tried turning around, gotten stuck, and was blocking half the roadway. Genuine concern for others, regardless of delaying schedule, included insistence that I stayed-put and dry.

Flimsy tetherings rendered our 4x4 useless. Other vehicles stopped; numerous women and children appeared carrying rocks to jam-under spinning tires to improve attempts at pushing. Nothing budged until a watermelon truck offered chains that freed the rig.

Once my soaked driver returned, details involved embarrassments of the stuck trucker. As story goes, guy had finally mustered courage to ask girl out for a Sunday drive, in his only vehicle. Industrious women and children were girl's family, conveniently riding in the sleeper-cab. The "why" explanation? No decent Panamanian would ever compromise situations, or reputations without proper chaperoning during early courtship! But of course...

For gringos, the widely-known Spanish-word for money is dinero, but actual term for cash is efectivo; a word worth remembering. Travelers will frequently come across signs with, "se acepta efectivo, solamente", which roughly translates, "cash only accepted". Panama's currency is the American dollar. Aside from large purchases or paying for multiple-night hotel stays, be sure to always carry plenty of small bills. Whipping out a $20 in most places is like trying to pay with a $100 back in the States. Merchants appear reluctant to make change if they even can.

In addition to prices listed as $, you'll sometimes still find costs designated with B/. for The Balboa. The only remaining traces of the original local money-system are coins given when change is made, though U.S.-based coinage is also circulated and accepted. Local coins are interesting, but the recommended collector's item is a superb half-dollar piece featuring the explorer Vasco Nuñez de Balboa on one side, and the country's emblem on the other. They're not widely used, but available upon request at banks.

The most impressive collection of Panama's original Balboa currency can be seen at the Museo del Canal Interoceánico in Panama City's Casco Viejo district. Modeled from earliest Spanish traditions, there are no bills. Various-sized coins were used as dollar amounts, too.

Credit Cards
Even with expanding technology systems, the majority of business establishments still don't accept credit cards, even in heavily-frequented tourist areas. American Express is widely advertised, though Visa/MasterCard work just as well if anything is accepted at all.
Don't expect to rely upon cards for cash advances from ATMs. I gave up years ago trying to get mine to function in Latin American machines. One hotel desk clerk also cautioned that it's common for ATMs to process a transaction when there's no cash available to dispense. You must then take receipt to the endorsing bank's main branch, endure a long wait, and then hope to state and prove your case, likely in Spanish.

A time-consuming lesson learned the hard-way can be prevented. Before traveling, especially to countries which card issuers might consider high-risk, it is always wise to call and advise them of destination and travel dates. Otherwise, you risk having card usage blocked by the company when making frequent and/or substantial purchases, or from repeatedly trying to use cards in ATM-machines without success. It's how companies safeguard customers, but potentially frustrate unsuspecting travelers.

Travelers Cheques
They may be the safest measure for carrying extra cash, but Panama's businesses won't accept them, Casa de Cambio - currency exchange places refused them, and guards at some banks wouldn't even let me through the door when trying to cash them.
Supposedly, the country's first and largest banking chain, Banistmo, will exchange American Express Travelers Cheques without a service fee, but try finding one when you need one! Towards end of my stay, I spent half-a-day getting redirected from bank to bank trying to cash cheques. Banco General, on the corner of Avenida Cuba & Calle 34 in Panama City, will exchange cheques for a $2.00 fee, regardless of amount. Banco Nacional is the other banking system said to assist travelers.

Banks
The general rule is to avoid needing any banking services even if you speak the language! Nevertheless, sometimes it can't be helped when needing to cash cheques or get cash advances on credit cards; the safest and surest way for relying upon this method. In Panama, bank hours varied by branch and location, but 10:00am - 3:00pm on Monday-Friday are general times. In heavy traffic areas like shopping malls, or in medium-sized cities where there might be only one bank, some had hours posted for half-days on Saturdays.

Expect long-lines (as in out the door and around the corner) on Monday's, and anytime following a holiday closing. To enter a bank, you must first pass through a security station which involves wand-check and search of personal belongings. State your business to the guard, and they'll direct you to the appropriate area. From there, service happens rather quickly compared to the long wait just to get inside.

It won't take long to notice small bank branches on about every other corner in Panama City. However, if you see Centro de Préstamos, it's a banking loan center that doesn't handle cash transactions. Don't let long-lines fool you into waiting, either.

Keeping in Touch -- Communications
While Latin American countries still have no shortage of primitiveness, they're certainly on-pace with modern times in forms of communication; Panama no exception. Here's what travelers can expect to find:

Telephones
Making calls from any type of system first requires purchasing a phonecard, which come in various dollar amounts, and are usually only available in pharmacies, bodegas and grocery stores. Don't expect to find them at hotel desks. Medium-to-lower-end accommodations rarely have phones in rooms, ones which do only programmed to allow calls to the front desk or restaurant. Smaller, family-ran establishments may allow calls through their main line. Otherwise, you'll need to find a public payphone.

Panama has three types of payphones, with the least available being those which accept change, and serve little purpose unless making quick local calls.. Travel information suggests that some phones, which require inserting scannable cards into slots, can only be accessed by this method, but that's wrong. The most common types of phonecards have scratch-off pin-numbers, and can be used for any type of phone that doesn't require coins. Usage instructions are listed on the back. Once entering the random trio of digits which accesses the line, the next step asks to continue in Spanish or English. From there, simply follow the prompts.

Common phonecards are best used for making calls within the country. Increments cost more when calling a cellphone than a landline. Don't think there's an error because listings may have 8-digits. The boom in cellphone usage has warranted the extra number. Cellphone numbers always begin with 6, and will look something like 6###-####.

For international calls, travelers are better off skipping local phonecards and finding a communication center, which also usually offers internet/fax/copying services. Cable & Wireless is the country's telecommunication company sanctioning these centers. A $3 international card was good for a 47-minute call to the U.S.; any remaining minutes usable for local calls.

In Panama City, communication centers are more easily found than in outlying areas. I highly recommend using their phone booths for placing calls, which also include posted lists for country access codes when calling internationally. Not once did I ever come across a public phone which wasn't working, but surrounding noises make hearing almost impossible.

Internet Service
Since home computers are unaffordable to the local population, public internet places are dime a dozen, and usually crowded. Usage fees determine where you'll want to go. The general charge is $1 per hour for high-speed connection. Places advertising 50¢ per hour are guaranteed to have slow-moving dial-up service. Desk clerks sign users in/out. Rates are calculated in 15-minute increments, and rounded-up. If any quarter goes over, stay on if needed since you'll be paying for it.

Computer systems aren't overly outdated, but certainly banged-up from heavy usage which may affect service regardless of transmission speeds. If composing lengthy communications, frequently copy work. Systems were prone to stall or randomly close.

The biggest adjustment for travelers comes with using keyboards programmed for the Spanish language. Standard alphabet placements are the same, but keys are much smaller from squeezing in additional letters and symbols. Punctuation keys are rearranged, but the biggest change to be aware of is using the @ when entering e-mail addresses. It appears on the #2-key, but only works using Alt-codes. Most places had access instructions posted in work stations. Otherwise, ask as function oddly varied between centers and systems.

Travel Documents
It took a rude awakening to finally heed advisories for making several photocopies of important documents and information to scatter through-out belongings. Load-up the glass with passport, traveler's cheques serial number receipts, driver's license if needed, and credit cards with the back-down. This way, hotline numbers are visible without compromising actual card numbers if papers happen to fall into the wrong hands. Then on each copy, write-in important phone numbers not committed to memory.

In Panama, law requires that everyone carry photo identification at all times. Visitors should also always have their tourist cards; purchased when entering the country.

Especially in Panama City, bicycle and foot-patrol officers are everywhere, and on the look-out for safeguarding travelers. While spoken to many times, I was never asked to show anything until late one night while sitting on a bench across from my hotel. The officer was not interested in seeing a photocopy of information. Offer to retrieve official documents from the room netted an advisement warning that they must be carried at all times, or risk getting taken-off to jail. Therefore, copies of documents become even more essential since loss or theft potentials increase from carrying originals everywhere.

The Holy season of Easter, locally known as La Semana Santa, was unavoidable as part of my travel dates. While I knew this would affect plans, nothing could've prepared for just how so. Lonely Planet has a list of Panama's observed holidays and festivals, with brief details on what travelers should or shouldn't expect. Not only was most of the information inaccurate to extremes, it's also rather glossed-over in stating the obvious. Simply put, travelers should seriously think twice about planning trips during any official holiday season, be it Panama or for any Latin American country.

First, la Semana Santa is somewhat misleading to suggest a week's worth of potential interruptions. While some take the entire week off, the greatest obstacles for travelers occur only on the weekend, and how! Most Panamanians abandon metropolitan areas in favor of coastal and mountain villages. Hotel reservations for out-lying areas should be made far in advance, but there's endless room availabilities in cities.

Bus services, for getting around the country, do not cease or even appear to slow down beginning Thursday afternoon. While preparing to return to the capital for the holiday weekend and turning on the television, news clips showed the Albrook National Transportation Center jam-packed with locals vacating Panama City. Keep this in mind when making travel plans. Either purchase bus tickets in advance and still plan to fight the crowds, or avoid travel on Thursday, period.

Leaving the city of David, on a 7:30pm bus bound for Panama City, was easy enough with everyone else headed in opposite directions. Taxis were also readily available when arriving at the bus station at 2:00am. So far, so good until setting out at 8:30am on Good Friday morning to find a cup of coffee. I was expecting most places to be closed, but when still searching two hours later, the magnitude of 'how bad can it be' began to sink in.

Panama City was a ghost town, and the few people drifting about weren't nearly enough to conceal harshness of the city, or predicament I found myself in. Along the waterfront, Japanese vendors were operating business as usual at the fish market, but all food stands ran by Panamanians were closed. An occasional clothing or electronic store was open thanks to Jewish ownership; completely abandoned except for local employees obviously pouting because they weren't given the day off.

Eventually, I came across a Pío Pío open for business; the local, spiced-up version of KFC, and gorging was in order as potential only meal for the day. Other fast-food restaurant chains were also found open in due time, but advice for later having a surprisingly good dinner in a hospital cafeteria was the only nearby alternative to McDonald's.

When LP information says "many stores close," take that as a gross understatement! Panama City buses did run on a limited basis; direct routes more frequent than others based on people saying they'd been waiting at stops for almost two-hours. Thinking there might be something at the Albrook terminal, there was -- still a mass of people trying to leave the city, but the only businesses open were a pharmacy and couple of foreign-owned trinket shops. Otherwise, no place to even eat.

In this Catholic-driven country, there's got to be some admiration for how seriously they take the Good Friday holiday, whether for religious purposes, or not. National law even prohibits the sale of alcohol, and requires that all bars close; one less option to serve as a potential distractor. Cathedrals and churches were abuzz with religious services. As the day progressed, several Stages of the Cross reenactments unfolded around the city, blocking entire thoroughfares causing bus-route detours. By nightfall, processions increase in numbers as did boisterous, evangelical worship gatherings in the streets.

Later that evening, I would make my only visit to the El Cangrejo district which anchors the international banking scene, and caters to business and upscale travelers. If you're in Panama City on Good Friday, I suggest coming here. An abundance of foreign-owned shops and restaurants were open as usual.

Come Saturday, everything was back to normal as locals had assured. Even more uncanny, Easter Sunday held minimal significance beyond mass, and a time families gather for celebrations and feasting. Otherwise, public transportation was running normal, attractions were open as regularly scheduled, most businesses had reopened, and alcohol was even available from bodegas. Unknowingly, the only thing which wasn't business as usual were the hordes which returned in time for work on Monday morning.

I must confess -- the Bad Friday funk that developed from such restricted situations was hard to shake, and set an unnecessary disposition for Panama City experiences; a place that doesn't need any further setbacks even in the best circumstances. Compounding the situation, museums and attractions regularly close on Monday. Poor planning on my part wasted too much valuable time for making the most of opportunities, but with such sketchy information, exactly how does one prepare for travel during any holiday season?

Regardless of which part of the country you plan to stay, try to be settled at least one day before things close for the holiday. This also helps avoid transportation frenzy with holiday crowds.

Make sure to have all your financial/banking needs taken care of before the holiday, keeping in mind that ATM services are hit-and-miss using foreign-issued cards. Also, expect drawn-out lines at banks when reopening after holidays.

Stock hotel rooms with food, beverages, and anything else you might need; especially during elongated holidays. Even in tourist-driven destinations like Bocas del Toro, Guide Ext212 found dining and service options limited during the Christmas - New Year's season.

Plan outdoor activities that can be reached either by walking or potentially limited transportation services. Parque Nacional Soberanía was deserted on the Saturday between Good Friday and Easter. Holiday schedules can be too unreliable for hours regarding museums and attractions.

Festival Fiascos
Continuing my unplanned string of local celebrations, I arrived in time for the Boquete Orchid Festival which is a nationally acclaimed event celebrating the mountain village's anniversary with a week's worth of activities. Beyond browsing the manicured fairgrounds, which looks more like a botanical garden, I had a front-row seat for everything with my pensión patio separated only by the crystal-clear Río Caldera. Nightly festivities never got underway until after 6:00pm. Audible speaker systems, with announcements and entertainment heard through-out the entire town, were nothing overly intrusive with events running until midnight.

Returning late one afternoon from a 48-hour whirlwind tour of Panama's off-shore Carribean islands, desired nap was postponed by sounds coming from the festival. Things took a turn for the worse around 9:00pm when volume-level was cranked for almost three solid hours of dee-jay mix, spinning thumping grooves of Reggaeton, Hip-Hop/House, and other assaulting forms of Latin street-beat music. Thankfully, music styles and volume toned-down around midnight, but semi-conscious stages kept registering; the last I remember at 3:45am.

My local contact was weary-eyed the next morning after noise had kept him up, even living clear across town! All I could do was smirk with amusements as no stranger to similar-induced fatigue while on the road. Add Panama to the list of Latin American countries that have a delirium for designating Sunday's into Monday's as the marathon party night!

It Comes With the Territories
In the brief time that's passed since returning from Panama, I can already look back and see these occurrences for what they were -- all part of the travel experience. Perhaps things could have been different with more accurate holiday-related information. Hopefully, some of these shared suggestions will help spare similar shocks and grievances to other travelers, but don't count on it! In Latin American countries, where things generally seem to operate "flying by the seats of their pants", expecting the unexpected is the only sure advice.

When preparing the best-laid travel plans, it's so easy to see things from the all about me/us perspective; especially when it comes to unforeseen obstacles and bothers. Even after witnessing Dominicans endure countless beratings from disgruntled tourists, that couldn't sleep or find places to eat during the Holiday Season, I disappointed myself at times with similar, unspoken malcontentness when knowing better!

Just as we anticipate vacation time with opportunities to travel, citizens of poorer countries cherish festivals and holidays as their annual highlights. Often working 60+-hours a week simply trying to survive, celebrations are their rewards; holidays a well-earned extra day-off. For travelers to denounce local people, for how ever they choose to enjoy their holidays, is understandable but totally unacceptable. Be prepared to cut them, and yourselves, some slack around guaranteed inconveniences. Otherwise, stay home during the holidays.

Panama is Latin America's newest Hot Destination; sizzling with round-trip travel possibilities from the States for $47! How?

It's All About the Miles...
While most U.S. carriers offer some type of service to Panama's Tocumen International Airport (coded PTY), American Airlines leads the way with three daily flights to/from Miami (MIA), with gate-to-gate travel time of 2-hours heading down, and 2-and-a-half hours returning. Fares range in costs based on season and availability, but budget travelers can earn the biggest savings if they know how to make the frequent flier awards program work best for them.

Collecting miles takes forever if only relying upon earned mileage from paid flights, or cashing in 25K IGO-points for 5K miles. Nevertheless, accrual remains ongrowing when having a Citibank Credit Card linked to AAdvantage accounts, paying one-mile per dollar spent. With monthly activity, frequent flier miles never expire. A $50-annual fee covers Gold Level cards; the only income they've ever earned from me with each monthly statement paid-in-full since having this card as of 3/96. In 10-years, I've earned over 150K-miles from this method alone.

In addition to collecting miles, card members are also eligible for Discounted Mileage Awards; savings based on membership level. Lists are renewed quarterly and usually posted one month before periods begin. This not only helps to budget miles as frugally as travel funds, it's perfect for travel to obscure destinations. Savvy managers can also find ways for reaching more popular destinations.

Example Award flights from the U.S. mainland to Puerto Rico are rated at 30K-miles. Since San Juan (OSJ) is American's connecting hub to the Caribbean, I find the cheapest listed island destination, book the flight to cover minimum night stays, and then schedule an extended lay-over in Puerto Rico on the return flight. Mileage savings is always at least 10K.

Booking Award Flights to Panama
PlanAAhead Awards in coach always net the biggest savings, but seat availabilities to any destination are getting harder to find. A flight can be half-empty, but if allocated number of award seats have already been claimed, you're SOL! Award flights can be booked up to 311-days in advance; the method timeshare travelers use to get a jump on seats since their annual travel dates never change even when trading for other destinations.

For Panama, travel is peak during January-April, not only because of snowbirds but it's also the country's dry season. March dates are further restricted by Spring Breakers, and connecting flights just getting to MIA, or anywhere in Florida, are also usually long gone. Even with American recently adding a third daily flight based on Panama's growing popularity, there was nothing available for March travel that didn't involve getting routed all over the Eastern seaboard at the preset mileage rate of 35K. Checking dates well into April, the 20th was the only thing returning from PTY to SGF that didn't require an overnight layover.

When researching award flights, don't hesitate to also use American's online full-fare search to get general ideas. Otherwise, flights through the AAdvantage search only appear if seats are available. If still needing answers, call 800-882-8880 to glean additional information. The agent I spoke with ran dates in two-week increments through late June finding no availabilities which didn't require overnight layovers, though her system missed the April 20th availabilities. However, she did mention a 5K-mile discount for April-June shoulder-season travel that wouldn't have appeared on the website until the payment screen.

Booking online 1/18, the 30K-mile award flight cost $47 including Panama's $20 departure tax. Booking over the phone would've costs an additional $15. The unavoidable layover in Miami heading down added $60 to expenses not factored into quoted Panama costs.

Seat Preferences -- to enjoy best views of the Canal and Panama City, secure an #A-window seat on the flight down, and an #F-window seat on the flight out. Sitting towards the rear not only allows unobstructed views without wings, but also room to sprawl out when flights aren't crowded. If other window seats are vacant, switch sides for the best aerial tours over Cuba and the Cayman Islands.

Potential Bigger Savings -- When speaking with the agent, I specifically asked about discounted mileage flights to PTY appearing on the 2nd quarter Citibank list, due for release within a couple of weeks. Should I wait? She assured Panama had became so popular, it wouldn't appear. Sure enough, PTY flights made the new list at 25K for April-June travel, based on seat availabilities. When calling American to see about reissuing the exact same flights, they wanted an additional $100 based on reprocessing; hardly worth the 5K-mile savings.

Keep this timing factor in mind if using these incentives. On frequently appearing flights to Colombia, Nicaragua, and other less-traveled destinations, it's certainly worth the wait-and-see approach.

Tocumen International Airport
More modern than anything expected, the country's main airport is located about 40km northeast from heart of the capital. Custom forms and necessary paperwork are distributed on the flight down, except for the mandatory Tourist Card which is sold for $5 before passing through immigration. These should be carried with you at all times while in the country!

For departures, carry-on luggage limits are predetermined at the check-in line entrance. If the agent has not tagged your bag as such, you'll be expected to check it after a thorough hand-inspection.

There's a pricey restaurant on the 2nd level as well as a pair of shops which have the best selections for souvenirs and mementos. Once clearing customs and security, the lower-level contains a mall for Duty Free Shopping, selling everything from big-screen televisions and electronics to expensive jewelry, perfumes and designer wear. Cartons of cigarettes cost $18; hardly a bargain when they're $1 a pack anywhere in the country. And much to my surprise, AA employees were distributing plastic bags, containing a humongous prepackaged sweet roll and a container of diced fruit, as passengers boarded for the 8:15am take-off. The flight wasn't meal-coded.

Copa Airlines is Panama's national carrier with flights circulating only through the Western Hemisphere.

Transport To/From Tocumen
Lonely Planet's insufficient information mentions cheap buses that regularly depart from Panama City to the airport, but gave no details about what to expect as a traveler just arriving in the country. The airport scene of everyone trying to hustle you into taxis was no different, but there were no bus-stop signs. Asking around, everyone kept pointing beyond anything obvious that could be seen.

From the arrivals level, head right and where the road separates left from the sidewalk, continue forward between some booths, barricades and walls which feeds into a hidden employee parking lot. From there, you can see the nearby highway which has a circular, turn-around at the airport entrance. Covered shelter closest to the airport are for buses heading away from Panama City. Shelter across the circle along the highway is for buses heading towards the capital.

The walk is at most 10-minutes from the terminal, but worth the extra effort and savings unless schlepping an abundance of baggage. Buses, known as Los Diablos Rojos (The Red Devils), frequently pass heading towards various parts of the city. I highly recommend asking for buses going to Albrook, the country's National Transportation Center, where ground connections are made. If nothing else, it's a convenient spot to get your bearings before heading into the chaos of Panama City.

Be aware that this transfer option isn't for the timid! For those accustomed to Latin American environments, it's like a homecoming as the banged-up school bus parades through first glimpses of Panama, to the rhythms of whatever's pulsing on the stereo. I also don't recommend this for travelers in a hurry, or on a tight schedule. Making innumerable stops and with traffic congestion, it took about 75-minutes to reach the bus station. Pay as you exit. Price: -- 25¢!

Otherwise, you're at the mercy of bargaining for a cab, which is always more expensive leaving from the airport, and you're still likely sharing the ride which will have numerous drop-off points. The official Focus Panamá tourist guide lists taxi rates, to/from Panama City hotels and the airport, as $25 for one passenger, $14 each for two, and $10 each for three or more.

For early morning departures when returning, I was advised not to wait with luggage in the wee-hours at a nearby bus-stop. A cabbie had previously agreed on $12 for a 5am pick-up, but was running behind when calling him that morning. $15 was the cheapest I could negotiate at the last-minute. The ride took about 30-minutes, but transportation time increases throughout the day as traffic does.

Good things come to those whom wait, and chance to finally move Panama from Dream Destinations to the Favorite Destinations lists on my IGO passport was rather monumental. Ongoing-intrigue had been further tempted by veterans Wanderluster and Jemery, but opting for Venezuela in '04 first shelved plans, and Puerto Rico's rainforest and wilderness coast became secondary substitutes when postponement scrapped another attempt for '05.

Good things also come to those whose itineraries spread beyond the Panama Canal, but original expectations barely qualified. Between Panama City and the nearby National Parks, an extended stay exploring these areas comprised ideals. When opportunity knocked again for the Spring of '06, the well-rehearsed travel blueprints were severely altered involving obscure places that required a basic geography lesson before anything else. Feigning interests were suspect at best; nothing "foreign" when it comes to the best-laid travel plans. The capital and canal basin would've been superb by themselves, but a very short-sided encounter if having settled for nothing beyond.

The word Panama, originating from an indigenous tribal language, signifies abundance of butterflies and fish, and is what Spaniards chose to call the territory long before any boundaries or defining attributes existed. That doesn't require much imagination for understanding why, but contemplate the country's totality on a map, and marvel how legacy and destiny transpire. Thriving waters, that circulate through heart of the nation's lifeline, bolster the massive wings, which geographically fluctuate much like the delicate hoverings of its namesake.

Like the butterfly, take flight and explore the outlandish frontiers which have enriched Panama for centuries. Travel information can't possibly convey what really awaits, nor will "seeing is believing" in many situations, even after the fact. The Lone-Star state holds nothing on the Country which waves a pair of stars on their flag. Texas may brag about doing things in a big way, but in Panama, expect to be humbled from everything which transpires


LARGER THAN LIFE!
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Opportunities
Outside the mountain village of Boquete, there's a 16km loop known for the small hamlets it passes through, Bajo Mono and Alto Quiel. These lower realms of Nacional Parque Volcán Barú are no secret to locals, but nothing travelers would ever think to take a spin around, little alone recognize as a 6-hour ramble I highly recommend. Larger than life foothills of the volcano rather shrink the Río Caldera into a gentle mountain stream. The apparent, well-paved footpath is actually a two-lane roadway.

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Hospitality
A local guide may think nothing of arriving 30-minutes late; any more than they'll hesitate earnestly combing the jungles of Parque Nacional Bastimento, in search of the poisonous red frog for which the nearby beach is named for.

Panamanians' larger than life efforts, to indulge guests even when they're least expecting it, quickly erases any shortcomings towards upholding expectations of foreigners' standards and priorities.

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Sanctuaries
Even during the dry season, larger than life waterfalls in Parque Nacional Soberanía can still make the watchful eyes of an Emberá resident seem like a world away. With almost one-third of the country protected through conservation, Panama's 11 National Parks, and numerous other preserves, are the country's natural highlights for exquisite explorations of land and sea.

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Perceptions
There's no denying the lingering influences of the Spaniards; scattered through-out the country when it comes to places and the people that are very proud of their heritage. Take a closer look, and it would appear the natural developments seem to pay homage in the least expected measures. Gazing upward at these larger than life cactus plants, even Barcelona's Antoni Gaudi could have been inspired with these similar images from his La Sagrada Familia Catedral.

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Reflections
Ridged by the Continental Divide, there are numerous vistas sprawling towards the Caribbean or Pacific, and when skies are clear, both can be seen from Panama's highest point atop the volcano. However, unfavorable conditions make these sightings rare; a lot of uphill effort for nothing when larger than life coastal sunsets can be leisurely marveled from a dockside hammock in Bocas del Toro._______________



Panama City
Eyeing position as an International Banking Center, that will be on-par with Switzerland and the Caymans, the nation's capital is once again returning as an epicenter of wealth for Latin America. Initial prominence was lost among the ruins of Panama Viejo, which lies to the left of the La Patilla and El Cangrejo skylines. Casco Viejo, the fortified second attempt, after Sir Henry Morgan sacked and destroyed the original settlement in 1671, lies to the distant right.

Despite wealth, masquerading in what most developed nations would consider imitation luxury, the majority of residents are still extremely poor; crude measures fueling the local frenzy on a daily basis. Thankfully, Parque Natural Metropolitano is a much-needed, larger than life escape within the tropical forest which overlooks the city.
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Adventures
Hiking around the Chiriquí Province Highlands can often abet more than meets the eye; regardless of trail conditions further hindered by the wet or dry seasons. Heading off-road can be even more defiant where entire sections of terrain have been washed away, exposing larger than life root systems which nourish and anchor vegetation. Scaling these unexpected obstacles receives further perspective, when realizing erect-speck ahead to the right, was the guide I was trailing.

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History
Panama didn't become a nation until 1903, but antiquities are revealed through lives of the people, and their marks on civilization; including the Panama Canal. The country's greatest collection of historical significance is found in the capital's Casco Viejo district, more commonly referred to as San Felipe. Larger than life portals are an open-invitation for passage between what was, and still is; especially around Independence Plaza where this Cathedral and the Canal Museum are found.

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Fertility
Tropical climates and rich soil are further charged with volcanic mineral deposits in the town of Boquete, which is known throughout the country for its heavenly gardens, coffee plantations, and bountiful slopes which yield most of the nation's crops. While you won't find Onion Blossom appetizers listed on any local restaurant menu, the locally-produced staples could never equal the larger than life bud of this Sago Needle Palm; the largest I'd ever seen in one of the slowest growing members of its species.
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Awakenings
Eco-systems are further classified by the various types of forests which burgeon across the countryside, though most have evolved as impenetrable jungle. Swallowed into their immenseness, the Quetzal Trail was what I considered to be the premier hiking experience in Panama, including glimpses of the larger than life quetzal birds which have abandoned Guatemala in favor of resettling in dense areas around Nacional Parque Volcán Barú


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Lifestyles
Amid the hustle and bustle of congestion within the capital, city slickers skulk like flies on the wall in older neighborhoods of Panama City, which can prove risky to the unsuspecting. Favorably, the country cousins redefine the larger than life approach to living in much smaller ways as seen below.