Playing and Dining Around the North Shore

South Shore Lake Tahoe is known for its casinos and two ski areas (Heavenly and Kirkwood). North Shore is known more for lake-related activities in the summer and skiing in the winter. There are approximately 8 ski areas within a 30-40 minute drive from Tahoe City, which I consider to he "North Shore Central." Ski season lasts from about mid-to late-November through May, although we have been known to have enough snow to ski on July 4! January is usually the coldest and snowiest; spring skiing in April is often excellent. Where else can you ski in the morning and golf or boat in the afternoon? Unfortunately, we don't always get the light powder for which Colorado is known, but early season "Sierra Cement" (wet, heavy snow) provides a base that makes our late spring skiing possible. And after skiing, there are loads of places to dine, whether you're looking for something simple or elegant. The only truly ski-in/ski-out lodging near Lake Tahoe is at the posh Resort at Squaw Creek, which has its own ski lift and a special run for access to Squaw Valley. Reasonable motels can be found in the small towns surrounding the lake, notably Tahoe City. If you're not skiing, stop by the North Tahoe Art Center (380 North Lake Blvd., next to the fire station) for changing exhibits of works of local artists. There are also several little shopping centers in Tahoe City worth browsing. And Truckee is just 20 minutes away for more restaurants and shopping and dining suggestions

Quick Tips:

If you are renting ski equipment at a shop in town (Tahoe City or Truckee) ask if they will let you get it the afternoon/evening before. Many will, for no additional cost. Do ask when the best time is to pick it up to avoid the crush of afternoon returns.

Midweek skiing is the best. The Tahoe area is full of weekenders from the Sacramento/Bay area, but all is quiet during the week. Several ski areas (including Alpine, Squaw, and Homewood) allow you to turn in your ski ticket by 12:30 p.m. and get a coupon worth credit on a lift ticket another day. Almost all ski areas, including Alpine, Squaw and Northstar, have half-day tickets for afternoon skiing at a reduced price. Pick up a copy of North Tahoe and Truckee Week, a free magazine, available at many locations in the Tahoe area (including groceries and convenience stores). It has a calendar of what's going on for the week, as well as restaurant coupons.

Best Way To Get Around:

There is a bus service (TART - Tahoe Area Rapid Transit 530-581-6365) but service is somewhat limited. Many ski areas run free shuttle services to the ski area once in the morning and once back in the afternoon from various stops around the north and west sides of the lake -- call the ski area for schedules and more information. If you are flying into Reno, a rental car is probably your best bet for your entire visit. Be warned -- traffic going into Tahoe City on Fri. evenings and out on Sun. afternoons/evenings, especially on holiday weekends or in stormy weather can be horrendous. If your plans are flexible, try to arrive on Sun. and leave on Fri. or Sat. (or midweek). For those not familiar with California driving distances, North Shore is about a 4-hour drive from San Francisco and about an hour from Reno. South Shore is about an hour away and stateline on the north side (a few casinos) is about 30 minutes. If you're planning to drive to Tahoe in iffy weather, CalTrans has a road conditions hotline at 1-800-427-ROAD.

Christy Hill is one of the best restaurants on the North Shore. The food is Big City quality (with prices to match), though the atmosphere is one of casual elegance. White table cloths and candles enhance the mood. The service is skilled. All tables have a gorgeous view of the lake. Appetizers range from about $7 to about $15 and main dishes are about $18 to $28. In the past, appetizers outshone the main courses, but on my last visit, everything was outstanding.

I love everything the chef does with ahi as an appetizer. The ahi sashimi with soba noodles, wasabi and soy is a light, refreshing start to the meal. Smoked salmon with cilantro Dijon aioli is also a great starter. The roasted tomato soup is excellent. On my last visit, I loved the Yukon gold potato and goat cheese ravioli with garlic butter.

For main courses, my husband really liked his broiled Chilean seabass, which came with a mixture of wild rice, corn, sun-dried tomato, garlic and cilantro. My broiled loin of lamb, served with a honey-thyme-garlic demi-glace was, to use a cliche, to-die-for, perfectly pink and delicious. I have also enjoyed their eggplant parmesan with mushrooms, spinach and pesto.

Desserts include a chocolate mousse with fresh berries and a number of other desserts featuring whatever fruits are in season. There are also daily special appetizers and main dishes.

This is a really special restaurant, perfect for a romantic dinner. Reservations are strongly suggested, especially on Friday and Saturday nights. They are closed Mon.

Okay, I'm going to let you in on a true local's secret place. It's so secret, you can't even see it from the street. Turn into the parking lot beside Pete & Peter's Bar -- it's right behind the bar. Small (it seats, maybe, 50 people if they sit close), rustic and friendly. Great Italian-style food at reasonable prices. This is not a pizza joint -- there are plenty of other ones in and around Tahoe City if you want that -- Za's does have a few kinds of pizza and calzone. The pizzas are the thin-crust, almost "gourmet-style," about 10" in diam. My husband always gets the pepperoni; a friend enjoyed his pepperoin and jalapeno. One of my favorite dishes is the spaghetti puttanesca, which is hearty, garlicky and spicy. I often get the smoked chicken fettucini, which features hunks of smoked chicken in a light white wine sauce with a touch of cream (not a heavy cream sauce). The Caesar salad (the full portion is big enough for 2) is also excellent. I have had the eggplant parmesan appetizer double-sized for a main course and enjoyed it. The polenta topped with sauteed wild mushrooms is also a great apptizer choice. There are other non-pasta, non-pizza main courses, but I'm always happy with pasta or pizza. The pastas can be ordered in half or full-portions; be warned, the full portions are very generous. Wine is served by the glass (a small tumbler) or the bottle or carafe. Beer is available by the glass or pitcher. Desserts are not special, except for the killer tiramisu, which is easily big enough for two. Service is friendly, but the efficiency depends on who your server is. The servers will probably be happy to talk skiing with you. By the way, the legend is that the name is "Za's" because the sign outside used to say "Pizza's" but some letters fell off. True? Who knows??

Upstairs from Jake's at the Lake in the Boatworks Shopping Mall, Hacienda del Lago offers a breathtaking view of Lake Tahoe. It also offers a breathtaking list of tequilas and tequila-based drinks! It is not as homey as a hole-in-the-wall family-run Mexican restaurant and not as sterile as a chain. The menu is HUGE and reasonably priced, with most main dishes in the $8-10 range. Everything I have had here has been good. The fajitas include some unusual choices -- in addition to the usual beef or shrimp, they offer turkey, salmon, or vegetarian. All are served with the usual pico de gallo salsa and the unusual honey chipolte sauce. The burritos are enormous and stuffed with a choice of pork, beef, turkey or veggie. A friend invariably gets the seafood chimichanga, saying it's the best ever (2 big ones, served with a choice of red, green or ranchera sauce, plus guac and sour cream). There are combination plates, featuring beans, rice and two entree items or three entree items, along with just about every other dish you could imagine finding at a Mexican restaurant. Servers are friendly and efficient. It's a lively, noisy, popular place among tourists and locals alike.

Lone Eagle Grill is everyone's fantasy of a mountain retreat: huge riverstone hearth, rustic wood accents, and huge windows onto a breathtaking view of Lake Tahoe. Ladies, leave your dresses at home, gentlemen, do the same with your coat and tie, after all, this is Lake Tahoe where "formal wear" means cleaning the mud off your Sorel snow boots.

I've been here several times for lunch, dinner, and the Sunday brunch buffet. While the food is not outstanding, the combination of food and ambiance make for a memorable meal. Service has always been good. At one lunch, our server even steered us away from a couple of items that she said were not as good as other choices.

The lunch menu offers huge salads and interesting sandwiches. I've enjoyed the Thai chicken salad, made with Nappa cabbage and other vegetables, and the grilled eggplant and portobello mushroom sandwich, which also contains tomatoes and cheese and comes with a pasta salad on the side. For dinner, any of the grilled items are good, but my favorite dish so far has been the ginger duck. I think the Sunday brunch is the best on the lake, based on the variety of dishes offered. The food quality is somewhat less than the lunches and dinners, due to the mass-produced nature of a buffet, but the selection is outstanding. Of course, you have the usual eggs benedict, made-to-order omelets and waffles, and carved-to-order roast beef. The cold buffet is a stand-out, with unusual salads, marinated vegetables, cold cuts, fish (including shrimp and marinated mussels), etc. And the desserts will fill you fuller than you want to be. One Sunday, they served a tangerine cheesecake that I remember to this day! Brunch with champagne is $25. (There is no option to get it without the champagne.)
Reservations are strongly suggested for the brunch and weekend dinners.

Across from the Hyatt Hotel, tucked into the back of a shopping center, is Le Bistro, a little gem of a restaurant. This is about as close to a real French restaurant as you will find in Tahoe. The chef/owner Jean-Pierre Doignon trained at the Michelin 3-star restaurant Lameloise in the Burgundy region of France. He offers a fixed price menu, as well as a la carte choices. The fixed price menu is really the way to go. Although the price is $33, it's bang-for-the-buck fine dining.

The menu changes with the seasons and with what's available, so what I describe may not be on the menu when you come. The fixed-price meal includes an appetizer, soup, salad, main course and dessert. I started with Belon oysters on the half shell. Good oysters are hard to find in Tahoe, but these were excellent. The soup was a delicate cream of asparagus. Being in an asparagus mood, I also had fresh asparagus vinaigrette as my salad. My main dish was duck strudel, which was an unusual preparation of duck and mushrooms in phyllo dough, served with a rich sauce flavored with the essence of duck. Friends had medallions of lamb and osso bucco and enjoyed these dishes. A cheese course is an option, for a small additional cost (about $3.75). The desert is a plate of five small desserts. I can't remember them all, but they included a tiny creme brulee, a tiny fruit tart, and something chocolate. I had dinner there most recently with a group of six other women friends, and everyone vowed to return with spouses/significant others for a romantic evening. (One had to leave before dessert, and the rest of us greedily divided up her plate of tiny treasures.) Le Bistro is open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner only. Reservations are a must.

Boulevard Café's atmosphere can be called "mountain formal." The dining room is small and almost nondescript, but the tables are set with white tablecloths, candles and fine tableware. Artwork decorates the walls. A word of caution, during the winter, it can be drafty at floor level, though well-heated otherwise. Cuisine is California-Italian. Service is very friendly, and the servers are knowledgeable about the menu and wine list. The restaurant has received awards from Wine Spectator magazine for its wine selection. While you're studying the menu, you're brought a small dish of garbanzo bean and garlic puree, somewhat like hummus, and another of capenata to go with delicious country-style bread.

On my last visit, I started with potato ravioli with mushrooms, drizzled with a hint of white truffle oil. They were excellent. Being a duck lover, I had duck with dried fruit as my main course. It, too, was delicious. My husband had tuna carpaccio with capers and red onions. Raw or seared tuna seems to appear pretty regularly on menus, and this was a nice variation on the theme. It was a light prelude to his osso bucco, a huge veal shank, cooked with vegetables and garlic (of course) that he managed to finish because he liked it too much even to take some home for the next day. Unfortunately, we were both too full for dessert!

Boulevard Café also has a selection of appetizer-salads and main course pasta dishes. I recall having veal and ricotta cheese cannelloni on a previous visit, and it, too, was wonderful. Boulevard café has a deserved reputation of being one of the best restaurants on the North Shore. It is priced in the range of other fine Tahoe restaurants (pastas and main courses range from about $15-24), but you can often find 2-for-1 coupons or other discount coupons in the "North Tahoe and Truckee Week," a free magazine available at grocery stores and convenience stores all over the North Shore. While reservations are not required, they are strongly recommended, especially on weekends.

For awhile, I was taking a ceramics class at Sierra Nevada College in Incline Village. As students had 24-hour access to the studio, my Sunday mornings were usually spent throwing pots, doing my "homework." Then I'd clean up as much of the mud as I could and head over to the Wildflower for lunch before going home. It is not a fancy place; rustic is more the word I would use. But it's not a cookie-cutter plastic coffee shop, either. Seating is at formica-topped tables or the counter and napkins come from a dispenser on the table.

My favorite dish would be either the barbecue beef sandwich or the French dip. An awful lot of coffee shops use thin, dried out, probably long-ago-sliced pieces of beef for these sandwiches, but at the Wildflower, the beef has always been tender and juicy. The barbecue sauce is probably the bottled variety, but it's good. The jus for the French dip is a bit salty, but has more flavor than most I've had. They make a good, honest hamburger, too, with decent fries. Cole slaw is also an option with the sandwiches.

Breakfast is always a good bet as well. The pancakes are huge and fat. I happen to think all huge pancakes are kinda doughy, but if you like them big, order them here.

The waitresses have always been good about refilling iced tea and coffee whenever needed. If you're looking for a casual bite, give Wildflower Cafe a try. It's open for breakfast and lunch.

What a beautiful place for lunch or dinner, overlooking Lake Tahoe! The lunch menu features a variety of salads, burgers and pastas. I particularly like the conchiglie pasta with grilled chicken, panchetta and artichoke hearts in a light cream sauce. The shrimp and lobster bisque soup is smooth and decadent -- wonderful on a chilly day. Although I have not had dinner here, the menu looks tempting, with some of the lunch pastas (including my favorite conchiglie) as well as steaks, chicken, prime rib, and fish.

My absolute favorite meal here is the Sunday brunch buffet. The selection includes California roll sushi, a great Caesar salad, omelets made to order with a variety of fillings, waffles and pancakes made to order, wonderful eggs benedict, carved-to-order roast beef, usually a pasta dish, and a glorious array of desserts including chocolate fondue with fresh strawberries. And that's not the complete list!

And by the way, a Gar Wood is a classic wooden boat, named after its designer.

Rosie's cafe is a long-time favorite with locals and visitors alike. The bar is a hopping place on weekends during ski season, but the restaurant is a family-friendly place. The decor can only be described as mountain eclectic -- the rough wooden walls and exposed rafters are decorated with ancient skis, an old bicycle and whatever other detritus the owners could find. An old moose head surveys the diners from above the stone fireplace.

Rosie's is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The lunch menu features burgers, sandwiches (including an unusual "Irish Dip," which is corned beef, Swiss cheese and grilled onions on a roll, served with jus for dipping), and a variety of salads, including my husband's favorite, the Alpine Village, which has turkey, jack cheese, ripe olives, jicama, guacamole, lettuce and fried tortilla chips with a salsa-type dressing. The dinner menu has burgers and other casual fare, along with heartier choices, such as steak, pot roast, baby back ribs, fish and pasta.

Gargantuan portions are the hallmark of the Firesign Café, a funky, cozy little cabin that continually wins the "best breakfast" category of dining polls around the north shore. Omelets, waffles, pancakes, all generous enough to hold you until dinner. The home-baked muffins and coffee cake are justifiably renowned. You can also find fresh-squeezed juices.

I am an Eggs Benedict fan, but am not crazy about bacon, so the veggie Benedict with avocado and tomato is perfect for me. I also like their special hot raspberry-blueberry sauce accompanying their buttermilk or buckwheat pancakes. The blueberry waffle is often my husband's choice, if he's not picking an omelet. If fresh berries are in season, look for daily specials featuring them. Lunch is also served, but it is the breakfasts that draws the crowds. On weekends and any day during the summer, expect a wait (but the patio is nice and the lake across the street is beautiful.

Alpine is a friendly area, without Squaw's "corporate" face. While not as big as Squaw, Alpine still has plenty of challenges for expert skiers, especially if you are willing to do a little hiking and traversing. Take the Summit-Six or Alpine Bowl chair and hike up a little, drop over the backside into High Traverse -- not a lift in sight and snow untouched by machines. When you get to the bottom, Sherwood Chair takes you up for more skiing on the backside or to a run back to the front. There is a half-pipe and small terrain park for snowboarders. Beginners are not forgotten, either, with two beginner lifts. The long run from the top of Hot Wheels chair to the bottom is excellent for high-end beginners. What I like best about Alpine is the varied terrain; every run has some dimension and interest. And the views of Lake Tahoe from the top of the Roundhouse and Summit-Six lifts are spectacular. Alpine Meadows is home to the Tahoe Adaptive Ski School (TASS), which teaches people with physical and mental disabilities how to ski. It is not unusual to see wheelchair-athletes zipping down the mountain in mono-skis (a single ski attached to the bottom of a bucket-seat, accompanied by short "outrigger" skis on poles). You may also see bi-skis (a bobsled-type seat on two wide skis) being used in lessons on the beginner runs, for people with other physical disabilities, as well as other adaptive equipment helping others to enjoy the outdoor activities. TASS provides private lessons, with an instructor and (usually) at least one assistant for each student. Call (530) 581-4161 for more information.

Squaw is know for its challenging expert terrain. The legend is that the famous KT-22 run got its name because the wife of one of the owners did 22 kick-turns to get down it the first time. But it is not just an expert's mountain. One nice feature is that there is beginner terrain at the top of the mountain, not just at the base, so groups with beginners and more advanced skiers can meet for lunch without having to ski all the way down to the bottom. There is plenty of intermediate terrain, as well, including a great loooong run, starting at Siberia Bowl at the top of the mountain, skiing all the way to the base along Mountain Run. The short runs off the Shirley Lake chair are varied and fun, especially in fresh snow. For a nice (though expensive) lunch break, you can ski down to the Resort at Squaw Creek for patio or inside dining. A ski village is being built where the parking lot was, so Squaw will be changing rather radically in the next season or two.

Northstar is a great family ski spot, with a ski school that consistently gets high ratings for kids. The mountain itself is not very challenging for expert skiers (despite opening up a lot of new expert terrain recently). It is not as large as Alpine or Squaw Valley, but also not as intimidating. Most black diamond runs here, if groomed, would be rated blue at Alpine or Squaw. Thus, it is a great place for the weekend or recreational skier or the family wanting to ski together. It's also a confidence-builder to be able to ski "black" runs. Where few "black" runs at Alpine Meadows are groomed, it is not unusual here. From the parking lot to the lodge can be a bit of a hike, but there is valet parking (!) for those wanting to pay extra for the privilege of not having to haul skis very far. Northstar offers special free lessons to upper intermediate and advanced skiers. Check in the lodge for details about times and meeting places. There is food at the base and at a beautiful mid-mountain lodge. There are rental condos as part of the ski area, though not ski-in/ski-out, and a couple of good restaurants open for dinner nearby (one at the Northstar golf course). Truckee is less than a 10-minute drive away. (See my journals on Truckee for recommendations of places to eat.)

In Tahoe City (on Lake Tahoe) there are 17 miles of paved bike trail. The most fun, but also the most crowded trail goes alongside the Truckee River for 4½ miles to Alpine Meadows Road. It is separate from the highway and is pretty flat, with the only uphill portions being a matter of yards. From that point there's about a mile of quiet, new paved bike trail taking you to the entrance to Squaw Valley. During the summer there are "port-a-potties" along the trail for people on the bike trail and those rafting on the river. You'll find the trail crowded with families on bikes and roller blades, as well as people walking and jogging. If you ride into Squaw Valley (another 2-3 miles) you can get coffee and pastries at the Squaw Valley ski area complex, which is open year round.

If you follow the bike trail south from Tahoe City, you'll find nine miles of paved trail ending at Sugar Pine Point State Park. This trail has some short climbs, crosses the road a couple of times, and uses residential streets for a couple miles. It's a nice way to see some of the lake shore but it's not a trail to take the entire family on. There are stores along the way and you can stop at Sunnyside Resort for a look at the marina and a rest.

Going north from Tahoe City to Dollar Point on the paved bike trail doesn't offer much scenery, other than views of the lake. It's a total of 2½ miles, with a climb for the last ½ mile up to Dollar Point. You can get access to lake and beaches off the bike trail or by turning down Lake Forest before the climb up to Dollar Point.

Not as big as Squaw Valley or Heavenly Valley and not as challenging as Kirkwood, Diamond Peak provides some variety if you are sampling the different areas around the lake or just want a break from the big areas. I've always enjoyed the "cozy" feeling of this area. My only complaint is that many of the Intermediate (blue) runs are too regular in pitch and terrain; I like a little more variety. Nevertheless, this consistency makes it a great teaching mountain because you can concentrate on what you're learning instead of worrying about what's beyond the next turn or drop-off. And, of course, the views are spectacular.

If you are staying at the Hyatt or at northshore stateline hotels, this is your closest ski area. It is a bit of a drive from Reno, but not far from southshore. While I wouldn't make this my "destination" ski area if I were coming for a ski vacation, it fits the bill for a day of skiing away from the crowds at the other area resorts.

To get there, take SR 28 to Country Club Drive to Ski Way, and go until you get to the ski area. There are signs pointing the way.

Sugar Bowl is home to the first chairlift in California & the first gondola in the country. If you skied Sugar Bowl ten years ago, you'll remember the only way to get to the ski hill was to take a gondola across the gorge from the parking lot to the rest of the mountain. Now there is a lift directly from the parking lot on the Mt. Judah side of the resort, although the old gondola is still running from the other lodge.

Sugar Bowl is the closest of Tahoe's ski areas if you are driving from the Bay Area or Sacramento. It is also easy to get to from Reno via Hwy 80. Because it is on the west side of Donner Summit, it is slammed first with the winter storms before they lose their power going over the summit, so Sugar Bowl often has more -- and lighter -- snow than other north shore resorts. It is a fun area to ski for all levels. Not so big and steep as to intimidate beginners, but certainly enough off piste shutes and steeps to keep the expert happy. The terrain has variety, not all straight down and regular. I ski here several times a year (when I take a break from Alpine Meadows where I've had a season pass for more than 10 years) and always have a good time.

The food at the Mt. Judah lodge is actually pretty good; I recommend the Caesar salad or any pasta dish. The Mr. Judah lodge is handicap-accessible. The mid-mountain lodge sets up a BBQ (weather permitting) and skiing past at lunch time, you may drawn in by the great smell.

During the 2000-2001 season, McDonald's in the San Francisco, Sacramento, Chico/Redding, and Reno areas offered a coupon for $5 off any regular adult or young adult lift ticket. On Wednesdays, if you bought 1 adult ticket, a second one was free.

Emerald Bay is the most picturesque spot around Lake Tahoe, gracing many a tourist postcard. Vikingsholm is located at the southwestern end of the bay and can be reached by taking a mile-long trail from the parking lot on Hwy 89. It is well worth the hike.

Vikingholm was built as the summer home of Lora Knight. Built in 1928-1929, is resembles a Scandinavian fortress, all forbidding stone and turret roofs. Stone and wood to construct it came from nearby. Tours can be taken from June through Labor Day ($1), and you can see the magnificent furnishings inside, including authentic and reproduction antiques and painted ceilings. When I asked local friends what visitors to the North Shore of Lake Tahoe must see, Vikingsholm is the most popular choice.

For more detailed information see the Vikingsholm website

Sand Harbor is among the prettiest beaches around Lake Tahoe. Its most stunning feature is a collection of large round boulders that form cliffs around a small bay. I spent an entire day with a watercolor workshop just painting the rocks and the lake. Bring your camera!

It is a good beach for swimming, but Lake Tahoe is chilly year round, so you probably won't want to venture too far from the sun-warmed shore.

There are picnic facilities available. Parking is $6 during the day.