Friendly Glasgow

We have spent a lot of time in Edinburgh, but not in Glasgow. But once we went, we realized what we were missing. Glasgow's reputation 20 years ago was that of a dirty and rough city, with little of interest for a tourist. That reputation may not have been deserved, and it is certainly untrue now.

Unlike Edinburgh, with its well preserved medieval buildings, Glasgow has a much more modern feel. No doubt that is due to the need to build after being bombed in World War II, and the fact that Glasgow has a much larger population and more commercial activity than Edinburgh. This is not to say that Glasgow does not have its share of impressive historical buildings. Medieval churches and Victorian-era buildings are plentiful in the city centre.

Three particular highlights about Glasgow: great shopping, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and friendly people.

The centre of Glasgow has massive opportunities for shopping, particularly along Sauchiehall Street and especially along Buchanan Street, with multilevel shopping malls and vast department stores. Fashionable designer clothes, in particular, were more in evidence in Glasgow than anywhere else in the U.K. other than London. In addition to huge selection, the prices were comparatively good. Many items we saw in Edinburgh and London were cheaper in Glasgow.

Charles Rennie Mackintosh's art nouveau style has left its mark all around Glasgow. You don't need to visit institutions specifically designed by or devoted to him, you can see it on the architectural details of buildings, furniture, and in designs on household items, jewelry, and accessories being sold in shops. To me, his artistic style and Glasgow now seem synonymous.

The people of Glasgow are friendly. Stop anywhere and look puzzled and someone will offer to help you. Sometimes the thick Glaswegian accent will require you to ask them to repeat themselves, but Glasgow natives all seem ready to talk to anyone visiting their city.

Quick Tips:

Take note of the time when you want to eat lunch. We found a number of places that would not serve food before noon and quit serving food after 2:30pm. If your stomach is on a different schedule, you may be out of luck.

Take a walk along the Clyde River which forms one of the boundaries for the city centre. There is a walk way along the river bank and provides a new view of the other areas of the city.

Best Way To Get Around:

A lot of the city center can be seen on foot, and there is no better way to learn about a place than by taking it all in while walking. The city is set out on a grid system, which makes it easy to get around.

Glasgow also has a subway system, called Clockwork Orange by the locals because of its circular route and the orange subway cars. It was very handy getting from the downtown east end to the west end, but for some reason we found it hard to spot the station stops and had to ask for directions more than once. It is cheap, too, £.90—a flat fare—which would let you go round and round if you wanted.

There are also city buses, but we did not try them.

Taxis are plentiful, and can be flagged from the street. Just be sure to take note of when football matches are being played, because the taxis all seemed to be full just before the match was about to start. In addition to licensed cabs, there are private cabs. We were warned that the private cabs may be cheaper, but they are illegal.

For day trips, the rail with two main stations is very conveniently located in the city centre.

The one way you do not want to get around Glasgow city center is by car. Like all major cities, traffic congestion is a problem.

The Arthouse Hotel is a jewel in a great location for visitors interested in shopping, museum going and dining. Located on Bath street, it is within the arts district, a few blocks to shops and restaurants on Sauciehall Street and the Buchanan Street malls and a within easy walking distance of a number of art museums and the beautiful City Chambers.

The Arthouse consists of two historic townhouses transformed into a hotel. When you first walk up the stairs to the small reception area, you can see past the desk and the curtained doorway to the central stairwell and the old fashioned cage elevator with its art deco gate. While much of the historic details of wood panelling and tiles remain in the building, it is filled with modern richly coloured furniture and lots of art on the walls. The jewel coloured tones of the carpet, draperies and furniture give you the feeling that you have walked into a gem of a hotel. We noticed that some of the carpets are a tad worn and the 1911 elevator looks great but is slower than taking the stairs, nevertheless, the Arthouse hotel was a delight.

Our room was not particularly large but had a lovely art theme. The picture frame headboard, the light coloured walls, contemporary furniture and high ceilings kept the room from feeling cramped. The bathroom was spacious, especially for a European hotel and the lavender scented bath amenities were a delight. The minibar was well stocked. Our room had an interesting leaded and stained glass window. When we opened the window to look out, it turned out we had a view into the rather dingy alleyway. The artful window was a good way to avoid that unattractive view. The discreet lighting was plentiful and kept the room from being dark. The bed was huge, comfortable and had enormous pillows.

The room was clean and fresh and chocolates were left with evening turn down service. We got the standard room for a good rate (£118) over the Internet.

A restaurant and bar/grill are on the lower floor. You could access them either by going down the internal stairs or by going from the street level down a short set of external stairs. A number of buildings in Glasgow appeared to have what I would describe as half basement areas which are partly below ground level but with large windows making the inside feel as if you were on street level. A buffet continental breakfast served in the bar/grill area was included. For an additional charge you could have a cooked breakfast. The breakfast was adequate for our needs. In the evenings, the bar was very lively. We did not try the restaurant.

The hotel also offers exercise facilities. As we were getting plenty of exercise walking, we did not use them.

For unusual surroundings in a great location, we highly recommend this hotel and if we can get a good rate, we would definitely stay there again.

Fratelli Sarti has two locations. The original deli is on Wellington Street; around the corner, steps away from the Arthouse Hotel on Bath Street, is the slightly more formal restaurant.

The Bath Street restaurant is a couple of steps down from the street in a basement or semi-basement. The minute you step inside, you feel like you are no longer in Scotland, but in Tuscany. The brick walls are covered with shelves holding olives, sauces, coffee, and cakes. Wine is stored in an alcove dining area and stocked in abundance. Tables are covered in red and white chequered tablecloths. There is an open kitchen at the far end and you can hear Italian being spoken among the staff.

The menu and specials lists are extensive, with traditional family recipes alongside regional delicacies. Our starters included thin deep-red slices of beef, marinated in strong Barolo wine with rocket, Parmesan and pine nuts; giant prawns, grilled and flamed in white wine with a lemon, garlic, chili and parsley sauce. There are plenty of affordable pizzas and pastas, and traditional Tuscan stews which include plump, herby sausage slow cooked in a spicy tomato sauce flavoured with black olives and wholesome borlotti beans. The linguine vongole and spaghetti carbonara were the most delicious we had eaten anywhere. For dessert, we loved the smooth, rich tiramisu accompanied by the best espresso we sampled in Scotland.

The servers were very friendly and efficient. Despite being busy with the crowded restaurant, they took the time to find out where we were from and whether we were enjoying Glasgow. They were glad to give us suggestions of what we should do and see. They also told us you can bring in your own alcohol for a corkage fee, but with all the choice available at the restaurant, we were happy to order from the wine list.

The restaurant is very popular so reservations are strongly recommended; although, when we went, they some how had lost our reservation but managed to squeeze us in despite the lack of a reservation. For traditional Tuscan food, this is one of the best we have ever tasted and the lively friendly atmosphere cannot be beat. We will definitely be going back.

When we got into the cab, the driver wasn't sure where we wanted to go, but as we got closer and I explained it was an Indian restaurant, he said I should have told him right away that I wanted to go to Mr. Singh's. He seemed to think that everyone knew that restaurant and he may be right. The place was busy.

Mr. Singh's is a modern take on a classic Indian restaurant. You can tell as soon as you walk into the spacious dining area. The walls are turquoise blue with some old elegant touches in the chandeliers and intricate cornices, but the furniture is modern with huge mirrors on the walls. The waiters, who all look south Asian, speak with Scottish accents, and are wearing kilts.

Our group included some people who had never eaten Indian cuisine. As they were trying to decipher the menu, our waiter came over and suggested that he order for us. Diners next to us, who were regulars, assured us that we were in good hands. They were right. We started with savoury pakoras. Later, I found out there was haggis pakoras, which I would have liked to try. After starters, we got a number of different platters of meats and vegetables and a huge tray of bowls with different sauces ranging from creamy to bitingly hot so that we could experiment with what we liked by mixing and matching. This was different from other Indian meals I have had before, but was a great way for novices to sample what Indian cuisine has to offer. Fragrant bowls of rice and breads accompanied the meal, and Indian and Scottish beers helped cool the heat.

The business is run by a Sikh family and the service makes you feel like family. It's casual but comfortable, and efficient. Reservations are recommended because the place was very busy and apparently popular with celebrities. Near the door are photos of the staff with happy patrons including some famous Scottish actors.

Mr. Singh's was delightful fun and the food was very tasty. We would definitely return for another meal.

Schottische is located upstairs from the Babbity Bowster pub. Babbity Bowster is the name of an old Scottish dance. Like the pub, the restaurant has a rustic look with with wooden tables, an oven at one end and a handwritten menu on the wall.

When we arrived, we were the first diners and someone was still writing out the menu (and having trouble remembering what was included). Maybe all the staff had not yet started work, but service at the start was a bit unusual. We ordered drinks and the server disappeared, leaving us alone, to go downstairs to the pub to get some of them and took a long time to find the bottle of wine we ordered. The wine list was extensive and maybe the wine steward was not there and the server was not familiar with it. In any event, we eventually got our drinks and as the place became a bit busier, service became more efficient.

The name of the restaurant indicates the the food is basically Scottish—lamb, venison and sea bass were featured that evening—but with a bit of a twist. For starters, I had a bloody mary timbale, which was more or less a tomato salad formed into a timbale with a vodka vinaigrette. For a main course, I had a lamb cutlet with ratatouille and polenta. I would say the style is French and Italian influenced in its preparation. Although, I noticed on the menu there was the strange item of vegetarian haggis. Don't know how to classify that one. Our food was tasty but somehow lacked a real wow factor. Maybe it was the strange start to our meals. In any event, we all enjoyed our meals.

The restaurant was very comfortable for a large family group of various ages and no one came away disappointed.

The Burrell Collection was donated in 1944 by Sir William and Lady Constance Burrell. It consists of over 9,000 works from an array of periods and numbers of countries. When it was donated, the City of Glasgow wanted the collection to be housed in one building to show the works of art to their greatest advantage, and also to avoid the damaging effects of air pollution. After Burrell's death, Anne Maxwell Macdonald and her family gifted Pollok House and 360 acres of Pollok Estate to the City of Glasgow. There, in a purpose built building, the Burrell Collection can now be found.

Inside the vast building, you can view this important collection of medieval art, tapestries, alabasters, stained glass, and English oak furniture. It is particularly good for European paintings, including many works by Degas and Cézanne. The collection also includes Islamic art and modern sculpture including works by Epstein and Rodin. There are works from ancient China, Egypt, Greece, and Rome. Architectural features from the collection have been integrated into the structure of the building at the entrance and elsewhere, you can walk under arches built for medieval lords and ladies. There are also reconstructions of rooms from Sir William Burrell’s home, furnished in Gothic style with items from the collection.

The Burrell Collection is open every day of the week. It is within Glasgow city limits but not within the downtown area. You can get to Pollock County Park by rail or bus, then take a courtesy bus from the park entrance to the Burrell Collection, but I chose to take a taxi, which was £8 including tip. Admission to the main collection is free, a charge may apply to special exhibits.

Floor plans are available for free at the reception desk just as you enter the building. Audio guides are also available. There is also a small gift shop with more extensive guides to the collection. They range in price. A cafe and restaurant are also housed within the building. On a pleasant day, a leisurely meal in the park setting would be a good finish after viewing the collection.

It is almost exhausting to think of collecting all of the items. There is a lot to see and I recommend anyone with an interest in art should visit because there is sure to be some items of interest.

At the heart of Glasgow's city centre is George Square. Facing it is the building which houses Glasgow's City Council. It is a building you can hardly miss seeing. We left the Queen's Street railway station, which is across the street from a corner of George Square, and found ourselves staring at the City Chambers. It is an impressive looking building.

The building was built in the late Victorian era combining neoclassical and Gothic elements to make an imposing symbol of Glasgow's political power and wealth.

The building has four floors, only some of which are open to the public.

We looked around the ground floor, which contains a cross-shaped hall with mosaic floor and many granite columns supporting an ornate ceiling. The entrance is at the head of this cross, whose main axis runs east towards the reception desk. In the north arm, to your left as you enter, is the remembrance lamp and role of honour (in a glass case); to the right (south), the arm contains gifts, which have been made to Glasgow (also in glass cases). As you walk towards the reception area, you pass between two rows of pillars. Between these pillars and the walls is a range of comfortable sofas and tables.

From the reception desk, there are two ornate arches which mark the beginning of short corridors leading to the staircases. They are called the Working Staircase and the Marble Staircase.

At the Working Staircase, you can view the gifts, in glass cases, but the stairs are not for public use. At the foot of the Marble Staircase are also gifts to the city, in glass cases.

There are also public guided tours offered twice a day which are free and do not require booking. There is no admission charged to go inside and look around on your own. Even if you only have a few moments to look, it is well worth a stop to view the very impressive multi-coloured stone interior.

Glasgow's Gallery of Modern Art is right in the centre of the city in a historic neoclassical building. In front, a statue of a horseman is often wearing a traffic cone on its head. The external appearance is in contrast to one of the most visited modern art galleries in Britain.

The interior incorporates new architecture with the old, where modern works are displayed to their advantage. You enter on the ground level, where a reception desk with floor plans can be found. The art works are displayed on four upper levels. You can either walk up or use the number of lifts to get to the galleries. The interior feels very spacious with natural light entering the interior at various points. Just the building itself is worth a look.

Many of the names I did not recognize. There was a number of contemporary British artists who were new to me. Gallery 2 had works of Glasgow based artists, Roderick Buchanan, Graham Fagen and Toby Paterson. In general, the works, like many contemporary art work, ranged from abstract to conceptual to pieces which were commentary on social and political issues.

As well as viewing the pieces on display, GoMA has an extensive learning library in the basement with a café, free Internet access terminals, multimedia, art, and general book-lending facilities, which compliments the contemporary visual art focus of the Gallery.

GoMA is open seven days a week, and like all of Glasgow's museums, admission is free. If you like modern art or are willing to experiment with a new view of art, I highly recommend a visit to GoMA.

We decided to spend an afternoon doing an activity just for our kids. We got in a taxi and asked to go to the zoo. The taxi driver was about to drive away from the curb when he paused and told us that there was no more zoo. Instead, he suggested we go to the Science Centre.

Glasgow's Science Centre is located on the banks of the Clyde River across from the Exhibition and Convention Centre, which includes the modern looking building called the Armadillo. You can get there easily from the city centre by bus, subway, or taxi. It is open every day during the summer, but check if you want to go on Mondays because it is not always open on Monday during the rest of the year.

The Science Centre includes a number of venues, the Science Mall, an IMAX theatre, and the Glasgow tower. Admission varies depending on whether you want to go to one attraction or two or more.

If you're not going to a show at the IMAX, the main attraction for kids is the Science Mall. That was where we went and found literally hundreds of hands on exhibits where you can shake hands with yourself, make a 3D image of your face and stretch your nose, make a skeleton hanging suspended from the ceiling copy your moves as you stand on a platform below it, or become a surgeon for the day. There are a number of interactive web based games which teach kids how to be more environmentally friendly all while having fun. The Centre also has live shows and workshops, which let kids build things or touch live unusual creatures like gigantic bugs. Kids seem to like touching creepy insects.

When the kids get hungry, there are two food areas which serve kid friendly fast food and drinks. There's also a gift shop for souvenirs of a fun day.

If your kids get bored with history and art around Glasgow, the Science Centre is a great way to occupy them and they may even learn something. In fact, it's kind of fun and educational for adults, too. Thanks to that taxi driver who did not take us to the non-existent zoo.

This is reputedly one of the oldest art galleries and museums in Scotland. It is named after William Hunter, who was, among other things, royal surgeon to King George I. He must have been a very curious, as well as wealthy person, to have collected so many various and interesting things and then have the money to fund the building of a structure to house all his stuff in.

Hunter's collections are located in various buildings on the campus of the University of Glasgow. The two main places to see the collections are the Gallery, and the Museum.

The Gallery, a modern, custom-built facility, is part of the extensive University library complex. The Gallery displays an extensive art collection, and features an outdoor sculpture garden. The bas relief aluminium doors to the Hunterian Gallery were designed by Scottish sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi. The art collection has grown since Hunter's original collection. Part of the art collection includes a large number of Whistler's paintings, and paintings of Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

Also connected to the Gallery is Mackintosh's house, rebuilt by the University (using modern materials) at exactly the same point that the original had stood. The Mackintosh House features some of the original woodwork of the old terraced house, and has been furnished entirely to Mackintosh's design, with original decorations and furniture.

The Museum features extensive displays relating to William Hunter and his collections relating to Roman Scotland (especially the Antonine Wall), geology, ethnography, ancient Egypt, coins, and medals. Superb geological, zoological, anatomical, archaeological, ethnographic, and scientific instruments also form the collections, as well as preserved insects and other biological specimens.

It is open Monday to Saturday, and admission is free to the Gallery and Museum. A modest charge (£2) is levied for the Mackintosh House. There is a cafe and small gift shop as well. Getting to the University of Glasgow is easily done by subway or bus from the city centre.

It is well worth the effort to view the amazing variety of things you may not have seen elsewhere, as well as appreciate the art. And I have not even described the zoology and anatomy collections, which are also housed on the university campus.