Getting Away to Pai

-the hot springs outside of town are shallow but very relaxing. Early morning and late evening are the best times; bring an egg to boil or candles at night, but be sure, as the sign says, to 'keep the clean' -Get an herbal sauna at Mr. Jan's. For just over a dollar you can have one of the most unique experiences in Thailand, covered in lemon and honey while sitting in a mentholated steamer. He also does massage and massage classes. -There are two waterfalls that are within 10 km of the town and are both great day hikes. When going, both falls are on the town map that you can get at nearly any store or guesthouse. -the Temple on the hill is a beautiful, serene spot on the way to the hot springs. A long flight of stairs leads up to a quiet courtyard and 30 foot reclining Buddha. There is a bell tower in the courtyard that is a great spot to watch the sun set over Pai valley.

Quick Tips:

Give yourself plenty of time. There are more things to do than can possibly be listed. Cooking courses, massage courses, motorcross, whitewater rafting, hilltribe visits, elephant rides, and trekking are only the beginning so give yourself time to participate.

Also, Sopong is a village just 40 km further down the road where there are quite a few different caves to explore. It is a smaller town than Pai with only a couple guest houses but it is well worth the visit and is not as popular (or over-populated)with westerners. If you want more info try this web site: http://dstb.home.sprynet.com/Pai/Paitour.htm

Best Way To Get Around:

You can walk anywhere in this little town but to get out and see everything the area has to offer such as hill tribe villages, waterfalls,and hot springs it is better to rent a bicycle or a motor bike. Moto taxis are also available but unneccessary most of the time. I think a motorbike is the best way to get to Pai from Chiang Mai as well. The roads are sealed and perfect all the way to Pai and the scenery is great winding through the mountains. This way you can have your own transport the whole time you are there. You can also rent a car or four wheel drive in Chiang Mai. The other option is the bus. It can get quite crowded and hot on this four hour ride with a fifteen minute stop half way but it is cheap at 51 Baht. There is an air-con bus but I wouldn't expcet it to be any better. The bus runs about six times each day between 7am and 4pm.

The three bungalows overlooking the river are in a beautiful garden in a peaceful village about two kilometers from downtown Pai. The owner is an artist who sells his wares at many of the shops in town. The rooms are simple with double beds and giant windows that open to a views of the river and the rice fields beyond. Each also has a private bathroom and costs 200 Baht ($6).

Thai Yai is the Thai name for the Shan people and the restaurant walls are covered with info on visiting Burma and the effects of its repressive government on the Shan people. They have great bread and do a variety of Farrang, Thai, and Shan dishes. 25-50B

Pai is growing by leaps and bounds as tourism takes over, but the outlying villages and temples are much more serene. Wat Mae Yen, better known as the temple on the hill, is one of those places where peace and tranquility pervade.

About two kilometers outside of town, an archway coated in glass tiles and wrapped by Naga introduces the path that brings you to the foot of a long and decaying stairway leading up the side of a forested hill. At the top lies Wat Mae Yen. The stairway leads up to the wall of the temple grounds where two Yak (Thai giants) stand guard over the temple. It is customary to enter the wat from the back side (follow the road to your left) and only leave through that gate, but it is by no means required.

In back of the walled temple is a large shelter covering a reclining Buddha with scenes of the Buddha's life painted on the walls. Be sure to take your shoes off before going in to look around. There are also a couple straw mats for anyone who would like to meditate. The walled temple is an active monastery, so show proper respect, but everyone is very friendly and encourages you to look around and enjoy your visit.

The entire floor of the courtyard is tiled and the buildings are magnificent. There is also a bell tower that you can climb up into for a great view of the entire Pai valley. In the early mornings you can watch the mist rise off the valley floor and listen to the cocks crowing from all the villages scattered about. Evening is a popular time to visit as it is a great place to see the sunset. If you want to be sure to get a place in the bell tower, get there early.

There is also a road that goes all the way to the top, so if you've rented a motor bike you can ride up, but I think walking the stairs adds to the experience.

The hike starts on a two track that meanders from Farmer Home restaurant and guest house, through the rice fields, and finally into the densely forested mountains. There are some great views of terraced rice fields just before the trail dips into the jungle. From there the path follows and crosses back and forth through (not over) a meandering stream. Keep an eye out for the many different types of birds. It is nice and cool in the shade of the thick canopy after the hike through the rice fields. You'll see some evidence of the lumber poaching that is such a tremendous problem in the north of Thailand. Lumber, especially teak wood, is at a premium now that it is illegal to cut. This black market provides good money for otherwise poor farming families, but at a great cost to the environment. Along the trail you'll see camps set up for wood collecting or areas that have been cleared to a field of stumps. Still most of the hike is full of green leaves, vines, and plants growing at the waters edge and the waterfall is fantastic. Water spills over the edge of a rock cliff forty meters above and spills into a little pool where you can stand and feel the power of the falls. There is room to spread out a picnic and you can follow a trail to the top of the falls. However, this is not a park. It is not supervised and no safety railings are in place so everything is 'at your own risk'.

On the way back stop for dinner at the low sitting tables at the edge of the fish pond at Farmer House. They have great food and some evenings they do Thai folk music.