I Lava You - The Big Island of Hawaii

A February 2006 trip to Hawaii (Big Island) by jenandfrank Best of IgoUgo

MerrimanMore Photos

Lava rock, cliffs, coffee farms, and whales are not all you'll see on Hawaii's largest island.

  • 5 stories/tips
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Merriman's Cafe

Kuhio Grille–Prince Kuhio Plaza, Hilo, (Macy’s Shopping Center), (808)959-2336.

Kuhio is a local dive, serving traditional Hawaiian plate lunches. They have a huge menu including plate lunches, sandwiches, sushi and Chinese food–so many options, my husband couldn’t even decide what to choose. All plate lunches came with salad (macaroni & potato mix–very common here) and choice of brown or white rice. A huge scoop (over 2 cups) of fried rice was an extra $3.50. We ordered the chicken kutusko, pork teriyaki and the chicken yatushi. The kutusko is fried dark meat chicken (with skin then battered) and served with a side BBQ sauce. The Yatushi is chicken thighs with skin, pan seared in oil (tons of oil). Both plates were a heart attack waiting to happen. I could feel myself widening while I was eating this meal. Needless to say I regretted that meal all day and night long. The service was friendly and very patient, especially when we couldn’t decide what to order. They are the home of the hamburger patty with eggs and gravy–I guess that’s something to talk about. Come as you are, almost a diner setup. An interesting note; Hawaiians love spam. This restaurant had many options that featured this delectable "meat." We found this unusual until we heard "don’t all restaurants serve spam?" NO reservations, huge (table) turn over. Recommended if you want to eat like a local.

Merriman’s Café–Kings' Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort, 250 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-1700, or http://www.merrimanshawaii.com/cafe.htm/

This is the off-shoot of the more upscale Merriman’s in Wailea, serving Mediterranean food with organic products from the Big Island. The restaurant has a fair amount of indoor seating and about an equal size area of outdoor seating, enclosed by a low black metal fence. The outdoor area is in full view of people walking around the mall so it sets the tone for the casual atmosphere. Their menu was a decent size, but nothing really grabbed me in terms of options or the way the options were prepared. They offered a sampler appetizer platter that came with shrimp, mushroom pizza, bruschetta and hummus for $17. We wanted to substitute the shrimp for some taziki (so seafood for yogurt sauce) and they wouldn’t do it. (?????) We ended up ordering the taziki and the hummus.

The taziki was very good and it came with flatbread that was almost like pizza with oil and onions on top. The hummus was okay, not the best I’ve ever had, somewhat grainy and also served with flatbread. There were three pasta choices; fresh tomato, tomato with clams and a seafood mix. I had the fresh tomato and it was fine, exactly what I expected and nothing more. They also offered personal pizzas, short ribs, steaks, chicken and several fresh fish choices. My husband ordered the short ribs which were served off the bone with pasta in a broth. Very strange. Although he seemed to be happy with his meal and as usual finished it all. They grate the Parmesan cheese at the table off a chunk of cheese. I thought that was an interesting touch but I also questioned the cleanliness of it. I mean, they are handling the cheese (no gloves) and I watched the waiter just throw it on their "prep" counter for someone else to grab.

Reservations accepted and needed on the weekends. Very casual, young staff, families with small children. Free live music at night. They have an ice cream cart at the edge of the property for people who just want to grab a dessert and continue walking around the shopping mall. Several items are also on sale in the restaurant like local vinegar, hot sauces and "rubs". On the weekends the waiting list for a table can reach almost 2 hours, so plan ahead. We had two appetizers, two entrees and one beer for $50. The service was good, sort of into himself and hard to get his attention but he got the order right so what more can you ask. Accepts all major credit cards. Open daily 11am to 9:30pm. Recommended.


Huggo’s Restaurant – 75-5828 Kahakai Rd., Kailua-Kona, (808)329-1493, or http://www.huggos.com.

This would be equivalent to an upscale TGI Fridays on the mainland. Very young, causal place with a wide variety of food options. Huggo’s, not to be confused with it’s sister restaurant Huggo’s on the Rocks, is predominantly outdoor (but covered) seating, with views of the ocean and the town of Kona. This is a great place to get lunch after spending the day shopping or sightseeing and just relax. The tables are large and spaced out from each other, you can hear the waves crashing below and there always seems to be a nice breeze. We ordered the quesadilla for an appetizer which was 6 large pieces and was available in chicken or shrimp. Served with fresh guacamole and all of the typical sides, it was perfect to split as an appetizer or good as an entrée for one person. Other appetizers were; sashimi, cobb salad and soup.

The entrée part of the menu had 3 burger choices, 10 sandwiches, 6 specialties choices and 6 pizzas. Sandwiches were served with choice of pineapple cole slaw, french fries, rice or sliced tomatoes. (Do people actually choose sliced tomatoes over french fries?) That was not including the list of daily specials they also served. We ordered the "Prime Dip" which is roast beef au jus over baguette bread with mozzarella and onions and obviously we took the french fries—excellent. Also the chef’s special of the day which was stuffed calamari with fresh crab over saffron risotto, grilled zucchini and a tomato and goat cheese sauce. Very different for a bar-grill but it was good, fresh and filling to be honest. Not like we had any room for dessert but they offered items like macadamia nut pie and homemade ice creams and sorbet. The staff was very friendly with laid back personalities but very fast service. They offered three local beers and our bill was $50 for three entrees and a beer. Open for lunch and dinner 11:30am to 2:30pm and 5:30 to 10pm. Very casual, no reservations needed. Good for budget dining, or dining with families. Parking limited. Recommended

Roy’s–250 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa, (808)886-4321 or http://www.roysrestaurant.com/.

Roy Yamaguchi’s chain continues to feed the masses with his Asian-Hawaiian classic food. This location has both indoor and outdoor dining as well as the standard open kitchen. The menu has 3 salad choices, ribs, at least 10 seafood entrees, and chicken. We ordered a salad each for an appetizer and were under whelmed as it was something I could have made at home. For entrees we ordered the ribs and the chicken. The ribs are actually an appetizer that we upgraded. Twelve baby-back ribs served on the bone over a hug pile of mashed potatoes. To say the very least it made my husband happy and quiet for 20 minutes.

I ordered the chicken, which was grilled and served over blue cheese mashed potatoes. The chicken itself was also covered in a blue cheese sauce and there was a ragu-type tomato sauce underneath the mashed potatoes. Thank god the chicken was grilled and I was able to wipe the other stuff off–talk about system overload. Who even thinks of a combination like that? I think it’s safe to say at Roy’s you stick with the fish or the beef, because chicken is not their strong suit. Dessert options were cheesecake, crème brûlèe, apple strudel and chocolate soufflé.

Our waiter was borderline annoying us during appetizers about the soufflé and how "there was only one left"... funny how that one that was left was still available throughout our dinner. I mean—I’m not a moron—I know what chocolate soufflé tastes like, and I know it takes a while. I think after I’m done with dinner I can wait 20 minutes for it, if I am still hungry. Why should we have to decide when I am still eating salad? I hate places were they give you sales pitches, and that is what this place is about. Casual dining that won’t break the bank. The HUGE staff is very eager; I don’t think our water glass was ever less than an inch empty. Reservations are a must and even then you get stuck waiting. Located about 5 minutes from the Fairmont in the King’s Shops. Overall this place is okay, we have been to other Roy’s locations in Maui and NYC and I thought they were much better; maybe it was just an off night. Plenty of free parking. Somewhat Recommended.

Brown's Beach House
Brown’s Beach House – Fairmont Hotel, 1 N Kaniku Dr, Kamuela. (808) 885-2000

We were here for lunch and dinner and the menu and atmosphere were literally night and day. Lunch: Open 11:30 am – 2:30 pm. Casual dining, you can come straight from the pool if you choose. The menu is somewhat typical for a pool-grill with a gourmet twist. We ordered the fried, marinated calamari with lemon-herb mayo for an appetizer. It was very good, very fresh and different than the typical tomato sauce this item is normally served with. Other choices were crab cakes, quesadillas and spring rolls. For entrees we ordered a hamburger and pizza. The hamburger was fine, nothing fabulous and was served with potato wedges. The pizza was a personal pizza but could have easily fed two. Covered with fresh mozzarella, fresh tomato sauce and tomato slices. The pizza was very good. The menu was slightly over priced, but the same goes for most hotel restaurants. The service here is excellent, even during the day. Recommended if you are staying at the hotel, not worth seeking this place out for lunch.

Dinner: Open 6 – 9:30 pm. Large outdoor dining area with some covered seating towards the back of the restaurant. Views of the lagoon, ocean and the hotel grounds just add to the relaxing setting the hotel has created here. The dinner menu is large and all of the food was served with presentation in mind. We ordered the lobster bisque and the baby back ribs for appetizers. The bisque was perfect, served with fried onions to sprinkle on top. The ribs were nothing short of spectacular (no pun intended). For dinner I ordered two appetizers and instead of bringing
me two separate plates, the chef combined them on one and presented them quite beautifully. I had the vegetable spring roll and the heirloom tomatoes. The spring roll was very large, served with soy sauce and a sesame (green) dip. The roll could have easily been an entrée and for $11 it was more than worth it. The heirloom tomato salad was good but I wasn’t in love. It was a red and a yellow tomato, completely peeled served with at least 3 ounces of goat/mint cheese and a little balsamic syrup drizzled on top. That was $14 and I'm sure it is a perfect item for a vegetarian. My husband ordered the hanger steak for dinner. That was marinated in pineapple juice and the steak was served with taro lasagna. Very different both in taste and presentation and that was $32. An excellent choice. Other entrée options were mushroom fettuccine, NY strip steak, soft shell crab, surf and turf, ahi tuna and roasted chicken. The desserts looked wonderful although we did not have one inch left in our stomachs to try them. They offered soufflés, zabaglione and mousse cake. Our bill was $92 for four appetizers, one entrée and one glass of (red ale) beer. Reservations required as the dining room fills up fast with hotels guests and visitors. Nightly live Hawaiian music with a traditional hula dancer. The staff is excellent and very attentive. Accepts all major credit cards. Highly recommended whether you are staying at the hotel or not.

The Hualalai Grille by Alan Wong – Hualalai Resort, Queen Kaahumanu Hwy.
808/325-8525 or http://www.hualalairesort.com

Serving Contemporary Pacific cuisine this restaurant is located off to the left side of the Four Seasons Hotel property. The restaurant is indoor, with dim light, an open kitchen and large bamboo-like tables. An overall beautiful space. The windows are floor to ceiling so you have views of the property and the ocean. There are no tablecloths and the tables are decorated with bamboo place mats, coasters and candles. We ordered the Caesar salad and the nachos. The salad is served in a parmesan cheese-crisp bowl with marinated pork shreddings on the side of the plate (a common dish among upscale restaurants here). The pork, done as decoration but with at least 3 ounces of meat on the plate. The salad portion itself was small but excellent and filling for an appetizer (anchovies were optional). The nachos are homemade chips, served with duck and fresh guacamole—perfect. Other appetizer options are Wong’s signature “soup and sandwich” (which combines a cold tomato soup with a grill cheese sandwich), ribs, spring rolls and seafood cakes. For entrees we ordered the steak and the chicken. The steak was a ribeye served with veggies and garlic mashed potatoes, simple yet delicious. The chicken was “Chicken Two Ways” and was served over paella with sausage and shrimp. Different, well presented and so good to eat. Other entrees are macadamia nut crusted lamb chops, short ribs, onaga and the “Hot Pot” which combines a whole slew of seafood in a miso broth with noodles. Their dessert menu includes as many choices of coffee as they do dessert. All of the coffee is served french press and they have an extensive Hawaiian selection. Some dessert options were kona cheesecake with kona coffee ice-cream, chocolate crunch bars, banana tiramisu and the five crème brule spoon sampler (Wong’s signature). Appetizers ranged in price from $5-$16, Entrees from $28-$38 and desserts were $8.50. The Chef’s Menu is $55 pp which includes 6 courses and dessert  is highly recommended if you enjoy meat and seafood as it includes combinations of both and there are no substitutions. We had 2 appetizers, 2 entrees, 1 dessert, 1 glass of wine and 1 cup of coffee and our bill was $130.00. All major credit cards accepted. Open from 11:30 am to 9 pm daily. Attire is dressy casual and reservations are a must. The service is absolutely the best around; attentive, friendly, and fast. Very Highly Recommended.

Pahu i’a – Four Seasons Hotel, 100 Ka`upulehu Drive, Ka`upulehu-Kona. (808) 325-8000

This is elite, high-end, rich people’s kind of dining. From the minute you walk in you are referred to by last name. From the moment you are escorted past the incredible fish tank that is proudly displayed in the reception area to the extensive water menu, you know you are at a Four Seasons—need I say more? Pahu I’a also happens to mean “aquarium” in English. The linens on every table are crisp and perfectly white, you won’t find a dirty table sitting empty for long and the service is excellent and very knowledgeable. The busboy would ask “may I remove this”, before he would touch so much as a napkin on the table. The bread basket was served almost in a fan shape with 4 different types of bread and three types of spreads; mushroom, unsalted butter and marzipan—all of which were fresh. Pahu I’a is called contemporary Hawaiian but the food is Asian influenced French. For appetizers we had the asparagus which was served with goat cheese. Very simple, nothing to write home about but good and filling. We also had the Kuhala pork which was shredded and served in a small circle over a spinach salad. Very good. Other appetizer options are; sashimi, Caesar salad, mixed greens, caviar and mixed seafood cake. Some entrée choices were filet of beef, NY strip, lamb chop, ono, pork chop and chicken with heirloom tomatoes. We ordered the gnocchi and the veal chop, the gnocchi was good and the veal chop was excellent. The gnocchi was served with mushrooms in a Gouda (cheese) dressing. Although it tasted good it was just too heavy and too much for someone to eat an entire plate. I will say though that it was very fresh and obviously handmade. The veal chop was very large and served with some cooked carrots on top with a side of mashed potatoes—that was it. Presentation here was not as big of a deal as we had experienced at other restaurants on the Big Island. Their coffee is all french press and is $15 a cup, unless you chose a regular cup of joe for $4. Desserts included a banana trio, valrona cake, chocolate soufflé and a cheese plate. They have a large port wine list as well (of course) with choices up to $150 a glass. I found it odd that they do not offer a chef or a tasting menu, but they didn’t. Open for breakfast 6:30-11:30 am, and dinner from 5:30 – 9:30 pm daily. The staff will tell you that their seating is indoors, it’s actually covered but fully exposed to the outside (meaning if it’s cold out you will be cold). Offering great views of the ocean. Accepts all major credit cards. Dressy casual attire. Reservations highly recommended for dinner. Overall I think its more hype than the price is worth. You ultimately pay for the label of the Four Seasons Hotel and the excellent service. I thought the Alan Wong restaurant on the same property was better (and less expensive) Recommended.
Whale Watching

Water Activities:

Fairwind Catamaran
This company sails twice a day (9am and 2pm) from Keauhou Bay, which is literally down the street from the Sheraton hotel. We decided on this trip last-minute, so we had done little research—we were excited but a little apprehensive. We watched as people from the earlier sail got off the boat and they all seemed as if it was the best time they ever had. It’s true... what a great day spent! Although not the newest, this had to be the largest catamaran I had ever been on—holding 100 people! They gave us time to get on board and get settled. We sailed for an hour, while occasionally spotting whales, to the Captain Cook monument and Kealakekua Bay. During the sail, the staff handed out snorkel gear, beverages, and snacks. It’s interesting to note that Fairwind is the only company on the island that can legally anchor at Captain Cook’s monument, and so we were able to snorkel for 2 hours uninterrupted.

The company provided all of the snorkel gear, tubes (for kids and adults), fresh water shower, snacks, fresh fruit, bathrooms, and beverages (for a fee). The staff was great; so friendly and helpful, and kept a very watchful eye when we anchored. I thought that was awesome–knowing that there was help nearby. The boat had diving boards, a 15-foot water slide, ladders, and covered seating. This was by far the best snorkel trip we have ever taken, in terms of the amount of live coral and fish we were able to see. Since we were there for 2 hours, people were able to snorkel, come back on board, relax, de-prune and then go back in. On our sail back we saw spinner dolphins (that the staff made sure to point out) and the captain even sailed towards whales that he saw jumping out of the water. Great trip for families or people just looking to have a good time. There were plenty of kids on our sail. Scuba diving was also offered for a small fee–combination of snorkel and scuba. Trip lasts 4 ½ hours. Pack a bathing suit, towel, suntan lotion, sunglasses, and a water camera! Highly Recommended.

Capt. Dan McSweeney’s Whale Watching – P.O. Box 139, Holualoa, HI 96725,
(808)322-0028 or http://www.ilovewhales.com/home.html.

Offering two sailings a day, the first setting sail at 7:30am (be there at 7:10) and returning between 10:30 and 11am. If you call ahead, the staff will tell you that the a.m. trip is recommended, and I would agree. That is if you are an early riser. The boat is located in the Honokohau Marina, which was about 15 to 20 minutes from the Fairmount Hotel. It’s basically a parking lot and docks. If it wasn’t for the large plastic whale that is attached to his van, I think you’d pass the location right by. Captain McSweeney’s staff greets you at the dock, takes your payment, and welcomes you on board. There is upper and lower deck seating, and it is basically first come first serve. I will say though that the captain does his very best to rotate the boat when he sees whales, thereby everyone on all sides of the boat can get an eyeful. We did, however, sit on the top (right behind the captain), and it was the best seat in the house. The cost is $70 per person for adults, $60 for kids, with a 48-hour cancellation policy prior to the sail. Pack a light jacket or sweatshirt—trust me. We assumed because it was going to be 84ºF that day that we would be fine in shorts and T-shirts. We froze our @$$es off because of the wind! Be prepared and the trip will be that much better.

Captain McSweeney has sailed throughout the world, studying whales, photographing them, and taping their voices while singing. He is extremely knowledgeable and loves what he does. That alone makes this trip incredible. He plays their (taped) voices to attract other whales, and explains how to get the best picture and what to look for. Parking is free. Space on the ship is limited, so leave the large bags, cooler, and strollers at the hotel. Great for people of any age. Sightings are guaranteed or you are welcomed to come back and sail again for free. He told us the morning of the sail that they had seen whales on 119 of the last 120 trips. The trip can get slightly bumpy, so you might want to consider Dramamine in advance if you are the type that gets seasick. Beverages, fruit, chips, carrots, and m&ms are served, and one of the captain's personal whale photos is handed out at the end of the trip. His staff is very friendly, and both he and the staff do everything possible to make sure you see the whales, understand what is going on, and that you get your money’s worth. There is one bathroom on board. Accepts MasterCard and Visa. Very Highly Recommended.

Sheraton Hotel

Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa - 78-128 Ehukai St., The Big Island of Hawaii, (808)930-4900 or http://www.sheratonkeauhou.com.

Located about 25 minutes from the airport in Kona, on a small lava cliff is the Sheraton. The palm tree lined driveway is up a hill, and leads to what seems like a beautiful resort. Valet was $11 a day and self parking (which was at the bottom of this hill) was $5 a day. That made me laugh–they have the nerve to charge for self parking. From the water or from the top of the mountain this is quite an impressive property. From the lobby this is also somewhat of a looker.. then you walk around. My mother was right when she said, "don’t always judge a book by its cover." The Sheraton has recently undergone a major exterior renovation. By exterior I mean the lobby and pool. The hotel itself was closed for over a year while this construction was being done and I think it’s safe to say that explains a lot. The exterior and the hallways are dated and the rooms have an aggressive mold smell throughout. It seems that all of the discretionary funds were used to enhance the lobby and pool but nothing was left when it came time to update or (really) clean anything else.

The exterior is beige; almost a '70s style building that is built in a star shape. It’s actually hard to explain but imagine that none of the hallways were "inside". So the center of the property (the star) has outdoor hallways with doors leading to hotel rooms. The pool is located ½ in the back of the property and ½ in the middle of the (star) hotel. The back part is on the ocean, has a waterfall, slide and excellent views of the lava cliffs. This half of the pool is beautiful. The other part of the pool is in the center of the property, surrounded by the hallways and rooms. The best way I can explain this part of the pool/property is to say that if you are lying out, someone can step out of their room and lean over a railing and have a conversation with you. Very similar to those low budget hotels in Florida.

The lobby is very large with floor to ceiling windows, new, hip furniture and a very asian-tropical feel. (Completely different than the rooms.) It is done in mostly white with black leaf fans, dark furniture and fresh flowers. I will admit when first entering the lobby I was very impressed. The front desk is a small desk, off to the left of main lobby. The layout of the front desk and concierge confused me. Here was this huge, new, gorgeous lobby–really setting the tone and then there was the front desk, setup in a wide hallway off the main lobby. No windows, no bells and no whistles. This should have been the red flag of things to come. The concierge had been somewhat helpful to us prior to our arrival via email. We chose the restaurants and they booked them for us. When we arrived, I went straight to the desk to ask for a print out or any sort of confirmation of those reservations and they not only had no clue what I was talking about, they very bluntly said they don’t keep records. Really? I suppose you are new at this concierge thing?

There is a charge for in-room Internet access, but what no one will tell you is that access is free in the business center. The business center is a car rental desk and two computers in a large office space. Very sparse. It’s located off the main lobby, overlooking the pool in the middle of the resort. On our walk to the room we got into an elevator with a young couple who was carrying a case of beer and some chips. They were giggling and trying to hide the beer. I couldn’t help but think I was in a bad spring break episode–in February. The hallways have a plastic type of brown carpet tiles on the floor and look old. The walls are plain, with minimal art or design. Very unattractive.

The room was bare bones and reeked of mold. It was a partial ocean view room yet so small it only fit one nightstand and a desk almost at of the edge of the bed. The desk itself was cluttered with a lamp, coffee machine, phone and book of services–there was no room for any of our stuff. The bathroom sink was in the bedroom with really no counter space. The toilet and shower were in a room the size of a closet behind a closed door. The tub was old and the tiles did not look all together clean. Toiletries included Pantene shampoo, conditioner and body lotion –
that was it. There were two large towels and two wash clothes. The mini bar was an empty refrigerator, not even a bottle of water inside. There was a terrace that overlooked the front of the hotel, parking and in the distance the ocean. This all would have been fine if the terrace had been washed any time recently. The way the building was built, the terraces are almost like little caves with an open window-like area. That being said, you have privacy while on the terrace but if someone was smoking and housekeeping didn’t clean, everything would smell. And of course ours smelled like an ashtray.

The pool is a great area for kids. It’s not setup to be relaxing and calm–it’s setup for families and young couples in "spring break mode". The tremendous slide just proves my point. Metal framed lounge chairs were sparse and we were there off season. There were double (wooden) chairs with cushions and a small shade that was available for $20 a day. To me that is ridiculous, there are people who paid for this hotel and have no room to layout but there are plenty of these double chairs for rentals. These are not cabanas! Total scam. Moreover, all guests are required to wear a wrist band while at the pool. This is definitely not a sophisticated place, to be honest it’s not even typical for the Sheraton chain. The hotel does offer a kid’s facility with games, pool tables, crayons, etc. It looked very organized and clean but empty. This area was located on the pool-level, in the center of the hotel.

The Manta Ray Bar & Grill was the hotel’s pool grill. To say it was a horrible is an understatement. The service was slow and incompetent and the food was served on plastic plates – what am I at a family BBQ? We ordered the nachos supreme and the Mediterranean salad. How bad can anyone mess that up? The nachos were served as one plate of stale chips and one plate with the toppings on it. The toppings were basically a tablespoon of each; guacamole, salsa, sour cream and beans. The $1.49 nachos supreme at Taco Bell is much better than the Sheraton’s, in terms of quality and presentation. I am not kidding.

The Mediterranean salad was bagged-lettuce (it was obvious) with one chunk of feta (maybe an ounce), 2 ounces of chicken (with veins in it) and somewhere on there I was told was salad dressing. And that gourmet meal took almost an hour between ordering and waiting and was $35. It was here that I realized we needed to leave this horrible place and fast. This meal was the final straw. On the Big Island of Hawaii, everything is far from one another. There are resort areas located off of one main highway, most restaurants are at hotels (unless you are in the town of Kona or Hilo) and supermarkets are no where to be found. That being said you really have to be happy with your
resort because you will spend most of your time there. We spent more than half the day on the phone trying to find another hotel and then driving to the hotels to make sure we wouldn’t be making the same mistake twice. The Sheraton did let us out of our "obligation" and did not charge us for the day. Note: all we did was put our luggage on the floor. But the day was still wasted finding a new hotel where we could enjoy ourselves. When you spend 11 hours flying somewhere the last thing anyone feels like doing is spending the day on the phone or in the car.

This is a two-star hotel with a four-star lobby and pool. Their site is currently showing 2006 rates for $325 to $425 a night–total rip off, better rates can be found if you search the net—we paid $155. Not Recommended at all, unless you are on a major budget and even then I think there are better options.

Fairmont Orchid

The Fairmont Orchid – 1 North Kaniku Dr., The Big Island of Hawaii, (808)885-2000 or http://www.fairmont.com/orchid/.

Located off Highway 19, this Fairmont property does not disappoint. The drive from the highway to the property is about 5 minutes, past another resort. Don’t let the modest front fool you. After entering the hotel, you can understand why this hotel is considered a five-star property. The lobby is simple with the reception desk to the right, the concierge to the left and incredible views straight ahead. We were greeted with fresh floral leis and welcomed to the hotel as if we had been there every year. The reception desk was always staffed with at least two people (throughout the evening as well) and the concierge although staffed with two people, had limited hours of 8am to 9pm. We found the concierge to be willing to help, just not always 100% helpful. Through the lobby is a lounge area that over looks acres of land filled with a tremendous pool, bar/grill, restaurant, golf, man-made beach, tennis courts, massage "huts," hammocks and waterfalls. The care that is put into the grounds maintenance alone on this property justifies your stay. The building is shaped like a U and there are two towers for guest rooms, the North overlooks the golf course and the South overlooks the beach and the property next-door.

Our room was a bit of a walk from the front, I guess that shouldn’t be shocking considering this hotel boasts 540 all non-smoking rooms. We were located in the South Tower and had a standard, partial ocean view with a terrace. The room was spacious and always clean. The walls were mauve, the carpet dark green and the furniture was a dark cherry. The "king room" actually had a queen bed, with Hawaiian floral bedding and plenty of closet space. There was a desk, three phones (desk, nightstand, and in the bathroom), lounge chair, entertainment center, mini bar and a bench at the foot of the bed.

The bathroom had a nice setup with a separate "room" for the toilet. The stall shower and a tub/shower were in the main area with double sinks, scale, two robes, slippers and plenty of amenities. The amenities included free coffee, postcards, mini toothpaste tubes, toothbrushes, mini cans of shaving cream, razors, scope mouthwash, shampoo, conditioner, lotion and shower gel (Miller Harris, London). There were plenty of towels with the towel rack over the toilet—odd. The major downfall to our room was the time it took to get hot water, in some cases 5 minutes. Housekeeping was good but turn down service had to be requested nightly and they did not replace toiletries just towels. They did however leave a bottle of water on each nightstand and a small story/poem of Hawaii. That was different than your typical chocolates and very nice. There was a safe located in the closet which required a real key.

Our terrace was nice and you could see the ocean on the left. It had a lounge chair and bistro set but it needed to be power-washed in the worst way. We did have a great view of the grounds, which had lit torches at night and many serene waterfalls. The downfall to having the terrace was that instead of curtains there were sliding shuttered doors. Theses doors did not block out the light. So when the sun rose so did you and it also made it very hard to take naps midday. This hotel is a major convention facility. I will say that they tried their hardest to keep those parties and people separated from the guests and were ultimately successful.

The gym was very well equipped and free for guests. Located on the pool level, beneath the lobby. Including three elliptical machines, four treadmills, free weights, and a large selection of other machines—plus mats, balls, and steps. Towels, fruit, and a water cooler were available. There was one TV located over the treadmills, that was it. We found the gym to always be full, but there was never too long of a wait for a machine. The spa ("Without Walls") was very nice. We did not get treatments during this visit because we found it to be way over-priced—$135 for 50 minutes and $180 for an 80-minute Swedish massage. We used the spa facilities on our last day there since the hospitality room was unavailable. Filled with amenities; shampoo, conditioner, lotions, bath gel, razors, combs, brushed, hairdryer, mouthwash, facial cleanser, and qtips. Everything you’d expect from a spa, but too often are missing.

The pool was tremendous and always pristine clean. It’s also interesting to note that unlike most hotels, this pool is open 24 hours, and every seat has ocean views. It was surrounded by cushioned lounge chairs and mini palm trees. It was always packed, and finding a seat in the sun was never a challenge; but it was never as easy as just walking to the pool and sitting down, some looking was necessary. Periodically during the day (at no specific time and never consistently), the pool staff handed out cool towels, fresh fruit, and provided Evian spritzes. This hotel did have children. There was a children’s pool, but most of the parents during our stay preferred to have them swim in the main pool instead. Not a fan of that idea.

For $330 a night I want peace, quiet, and a pee-free pool to swim in. The beach was very nice and spacious, with plenty of seating and palm trees. The man-made beach was built into a lagoon, which made it perfect for snorkeling and water activities. There was an activities desk to borrow/rent equipment, and the hotel offered an activities package; $40/adult or $30/kids (one time charge), the package included unlimited use of all of the water activities and equipment. If we had children, this would have been a great thing to purchase as these items purchased "alla carte" can get very expensive. Between the pool and the beach, there was an area for "resting Hawaiian turtles." This area was gated off, where huge sea turtles relaxed. A lot of fun to watch and take pictures of. Almost a gimmick, although I doubt the hotel had anything to do with it. There were three hammocks on the property, which if you were able to snag were terrific to nap on.

We did eat at Brown’s Beach House and Brown’s deli but in addition the hotel offers The Grill, the Paniolo Lounge and Polo Bar, The Sunset Terrace, The Ocean Bar and the Kahakai Bar. The Grill serves contemporary cuisine. The menu looked delicious but limited and pricey. Open Tuesday through Saturda, dinner only. Reservations a must, dressy casual attire expected. The Paniolo Lounge was a pool bar basically with views of the ocean and the hotel’s property. There always seemed to be "convention people" here and it was usually very crowded with leather couches and TVs.

Brown’s Beach House was located ocean front, next to the beach. At night they had Hawaiian music and an occasional Hula dancer. The feel was very tropical and relaxing and the staff was very friendly. Reservations suggested and nice/casual attire is required. Open for lunch and dinner. For more on this restaurant, check out my entry on "Fine Dining". Brown’s deli is at the very least a clever idea for a resort. Offering deli sandwiches, salads, snacks and beverages. Great way to take food on the go or if you have children, it makes life easier than sitting at a table and waiting for a served meal. The deli has several bistro tables located outside and all food can be charged to your room. Due to the location of this hotel, finding a place close by to get a snack is not always easy. This is the perfect solution.

Valet was $12 a day, or self parking was free. Every time we got in or out of our car the valet staff could not be nicer. Greeting us "Welcome back" or wishing us a good day or night. In addition there had to be at least 6 people on duty at once so no one ever had to wait more than a minute to get their car. As a president’s club member we received free internet use in the business center or via wireless access. Also a free daily national or local paper was provided. If you are not a president's club member internet access was $14 a day in the room or $20 for the business center.

Located about 35 to 45 minutes from the airport, this hotel was worth the money we spent. I have read a lot of reviews that complain the food was expensive and the hotel nickel and dimes—name one four- or five-star property that serves/sells inexpensive food? You get what you pay for here; excellent service, spectacular grounds, and a beautiful facility that serves great food.

Highly Recommended.

About the Writer

jenandfrank
jenandfrank
New York, New York

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