Paris - Been There Done That Bought The T-Shirt... - IgoUgo Paris Journal

Paris - Been There Done That Bought The T-Shirt...

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Overview

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Paris. City of lights, city of beautiful women, city of good cheese and wine, city of baguettes, city of dog poo, city of rude waiters. Is that all, well how about the Pantheon, Centre Georges Pompidou, Sacre Coeur, Arc de Triomphe, Champs Elysees, Place de Concorde, the Louvre, Notre Dame, Napoleon's Tomb, the Seine River, Eiffel Tower......did I mention the Eiffel Tower? Quick Tips: Tips for Paris justify another journal in it of itself. Suffice it to say our over-arching suggestion is to buy a baguette (skinny loaf of crusty white bread) and some brie cheese, load up some other goodies and utensils, maybe a bottle of wine and plastic wine glasses (if you're that organized) then take your ...Read More

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Berthillon

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Restaurant | "Berthillon Ice Cream Shop"

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My brother-in-law loves ice cream, so he insisted on taking us to what he calls the best ice cream in Paris. At first I wasn't too enthusiastic about the thought of taking an excursion across town, away from our normal planned itinerary I had hoped to stick with (much like Chevy Chase in the movie European Vacation). This excursion turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip for me. Not only did it turn out that this supposed ice cream shop served some of the best ice cream I'd ever had, it also was smack dab in the middle of a small island on the Seine River. Not an island like you'd normally think and actually just more than a mound of real estate with the Seine splitting around it. Neve...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 28, 2001

Berthillon
31 Rue Saint-louis-en-l'ile
Paris, France
01 43 54 31 61

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Les Glenan

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Restaurant

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We did one dining splurge - and I mean splurge - while we were visiting with my brother-in-law. We had passed by several interesting and posh looking restaurants and ooohed and ahhed in wonderment. That night, my brother had us pick from a list of starred Michelin restaurants. The Les Glenan would take our money that night. I couldn't begin to give directions to this place, other than we took their business card and knew it was near the French Parliament buildings. Before getting there we decided to each order a different dish, just in case one was a "bomb" so to speak. The restaurant was just like in the movies; black coat waiters with white towels draped over their forearms. Some waiters were...Read More

We did one dining splurge - and I mean splurge - while we were visiting with my brother-in-law. We had passed by several interesting and posh looking restaurants and ooohed and ahhed in wonderment. That night, my brother had us pick from a list of starred Michelin restaurants. The Les Glenan would take our money that night. I couldn't begin to give directions to this place, other than we took their business card and knew it was near the French Parliament buildings. Before getting there we decided to each order a different dish, just in case one was a "bomb" so to speak. The restaurant was just like in the movies; black coat waiters with white towels draped over their forearms. Some waiters were standing against the walls scanning the tables for the next customer to raise a hand for service. These guys were at your table faster than you could get your arm stretched. I think they know you need service even before you begin to raise your hand and catch you as you bob your head away from your dinner guests at your table. My meal started with a really wonderful appetizer of foie gras (my favorite) which was served warm and completely melted in my mouth with each bite, then a main course of trout covered with crispy deep fried something scallions. The many flavors were complementing each other and the trout had great texture. Finally I had a cold apple-creme brulee thingy. It tasted good, but I think it would have been better hot. My wife started with a Carpaccio of Tuna appetizer, then moved on to a main course of Tagliatelle with Langostineos, finishing off with a fruit pastry. Her brother started with a terrine of salmon with fresh butter lettuce and a wonderful light sauce of oil and balsamic vinegar, then a Flambe Beef Tornadoes, and finishing with ice cream similar to our Berthillion's ice cream experience, in fact it could be that they supplied ice cream throughout the restaurants in the city. Wouldn't surprise me as delectable as it was earlier. In summary, this was one of the best meals I could remember ever having. We were set back just shy of 1000 Francs for the three of us - and with no wine! Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 28, 2001

Les Glenan
54 Rue de Bourgogne
Paris, France 75007
01 45 51 61 09

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Les Invalides/L'Hôtel National des Invalides

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Attraction | "Napoleon's Tomb - Military Museum"

Dome as Seen from Inside the Museum Photo - Les Invalides/L'Hôtel National des Invalides, Paris, France

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My brother is fascinated with military history, so naturally he wanted to take us to the place where Napoleon was entombed. The Hotel des Invalids has three noteworthy aspects: the building itself, the military museum, and the tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte. The building is quite impressive, as are most Parisian institutions. It's recognizable from anywhere in the city as its shining golden dome is unique and sparkles like a comet. There is a grand courtyard with a wonderful collection of amazingly ornate cannons arrayed around the edge. The military museum is suitably impressive, full of magnificent suits of armor, swords, cannons, helmets, and on and on. If you are a war or armaments bu...Read More

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on February 28, 2001

Les Invalides/L'Hôtel National des Invalides
Esplanade Des Invalides
Paris, France 75007
+33 1 44 42 37 70

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Musée du Louvre

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Attraction | "The Louvre"

Mona Lisa Photo - Musée du Louvre, Paris, France

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My brother drove my wife and I to the Louvre on our second day in Paris. It was my one official request while we were there, especially since there was no Air Show in town like the last time I visited Paris. We ended up getting there about 2:30. Since we hadn't really eaten yet and the ticket price goes down at 3pm at the Louvre, we decided to eat at the cafe under the pyramid first. The pyramid sits in the courtyard of the u-shaped Louvre building. Anyway, it was a bad idea, for two reasons. First, the cafe under the pyramid is just about the only place in Paris to get bad food. The second reason is that at 3pm the ticket lines instantly grow to epic proportions, especially on Wedn...Read More

My brother drove my wife and I to the Louvre on our second day in Paris. It was my one official request while we were there, especially since there was no Air Show in town like the last time I visited Paris. We ended up getting there about 2:30. Since we hadn't really eaten yet and the ticket price goes down at 3pm at the Louvre, we decided to eat at the cafe under the pyramid first. The pyramid sits in the courtyard of the u-shaped Louvre building.

Anyway, it was a bad idea, for two reasons. First, the cafe under the pyramid is just about the only place in Paris to get bad food. The second reason is that at 3pm the ticket lines instantly grow to epic proportions, especially on Wednesdays when the museum is open late. So we had some really bad sandwiches, which wouldn't have been so bad had the french bread been crispy, and then waited in a really long line. After the huge line we had to wait around at the baggage check because it was filled to capacity. All this to save about $3.00 vs. entering before 3pm. Definitely not worth it, but my brother-in-law was treating so I didn't let it get to me. Note, once we got inside we found there was good food to be had at the Louvre in the cafe on the 2nd story of the Richelieu wing. Not only is the food good, it is a really pleasant room. Superior in all regards to the cafe under the pyramid. Also, without being admitted to the museum there is a cafe under the arches of the Richelieu wing called Cafe Marly that has excellent people-watching potential and draws a nice stein of Heineken. However, the prices are suitably inflated.

Naturally, one of the first things we asked the concierge when in the Louvre was for directions to the Mona Lisa. We didn't feel like fumbling with the fold-out map. After about four left-then-right gestures, we stumbled our way upon it. Kind of knew it as we had to knudge our way through the crowds in the room it was contained. Speaking of contained, it was in a glass container box on the wall and looked to be blast proof (kind of like the presidential limousine glass). I could go on and on about all the beautiful masterpieces we were able to see, but suffice it to say we didn't even get through 3/4 of the museum. Towards closing time we decided to cut our losses and left it open to maybe come back towards the end of our stay in Paris. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 28, 2001

Musée du Louvre
99, rue de Rivoli
Paris, France 75001
+33 (1) 40 20 51 51

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Cathédrale Notre-Dame

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Attraction | "Notre Dame Cathedral"

Notre Dame Photo - Cathédrale Notre-Dame, Paris, France

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Could I even make a Paris journal without a Notre Dame entry? Fortunately, the week we were there, my brother-in-law said they had just completed renovation of the cathedral towers which were closed just a week prior. Notre Dame is an amazing experience. It is a beautiful, lofty building, and really feels like God lives there. It is an interesting contrast to go from the rather intimate confines of an American church to the airy interior of Notre Dame. There was a sign at the main door entrance that asked for appropriate attire to be worn inside. I remember making a joke to my brother about not having our bathing suits on, so I guessed it was okay to enter. It was a much-needed laugh in an otherwis...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 28, 2001

Cathédrale Notre-Dame
6, place du Parvis-de-Notre-Dame
Paris, France 75004
+33 (1) 42 34 56 10

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Avenue des Champs-Elysées

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Attraction | "Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysee"

Champs Elysee from atop Arc de Triomphe Photo - Avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris, France

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I combined these two Paris attractions because we experienced them essentially at the same time. My guess is that the Champs Elysee used to flow through the Arc until modern day roads sprouted up. My brother took our life in his hands by driving through the traffic circle around the Arc then darting through to the other side of Champs Elysee. At the moment it reminded me of a go-kart ride I once experienced as a kid. Cars (little ones) were all around, always approaching our car's trajectory, leaving little room for error. I couldn't stop thinking that I'd be the first to go, since I was on the passenger side as cars merged onto the traffic circle. We found a metered parking spot off the main Ch...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 28, 2001

Avenue des Champs-Elysées
Avenue Des Champs-elysées
Paris, France 75008

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Mémorial des Martyrs de la Déportation

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Attraction | "Memorial de la Deportation"

The long dimly lit hallway stretching underground Photo - Mémorial des Martyrs de la Déportation, Paris, France

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A spot that I never heard of, but very near and dear to my brother-in-law's heart is (big kudos to him for pointing this one out to my wife and I) the Memorial de la Deportation. This a really moving memorial to the French men and women who were deported from France to concentration camps in Germany during World War II. It is really striking. Down a narrow staircase lies a stark, open courtyard of granite. There is virtually no adornment, and it is somewhat confusing in its austerity. From the courtyard leads another uninviting staircase down into darkness. Here is the true memorial. We entered into a room with antechambers on each side and a long hallway behind bars leading off in front. Each of the...Read More

A spot that I never heard of, but very near and dear to my brother-in-law's heart is (big kudos to him for pointing this one out to my wife and I) the Memorial de la Deportation. This a really moving memorial to the French men and women who were deported from France to concentration camps in Germany during World War II. It is really striking. Down a narrow staircase lies a stark, open courtyard of granite. There is virtually no adornment, and it is somewhat confusing in its austerity. From the courtyard leads another uninviting staircase down into darkness. Here is the true memorial. We entered into a room with antechambers on each side and a long hallway behind bars leading off in front. Each of the antechambers has the names of concentration camps carved in them with quotations engraved in the walls. The hallway at the back of the main room contains the Tomb of the Unknown Deportee and 200,000 crystals each lit with a light and representing the 200,000 French "deportees." Carved into a plaque on the floor is engraved the rather chilling statement (translated from french by my brother) "They went to another part of the earth, and they didn't come back." One thing I found a little surprising is that there was no mention anywhere in the memorial of Jews. Everywhere it refers on to "deportees." Granted that the Germans executed homosexuals, enemies of the German state, and other groups as well as Jews, the Jewish people did make up the lions share of the "deportees", so it is a bit surprising to see that aspect of the deportation left out. To be honest, we saw my brother feeling a bit glum when we went into the memorial. I found it so moving that I had to spend some time just sitting and thinking before we could go on. I think it was the right thing to do. My wife's brother spent 7 years in a concentration camp in Vietnam once the South fell to the communists, so I could see how a memorial like this could have meaning to him. It was the saddest part of our trip, but necessary nevertheless. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on February 28, 2001

Mémorial des Martyrs de la Déportation
Square de l'Ile de France
Paris, France 75004
+33 1 46 33 87 56

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Centre Pompidou

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Attraction

Centre Pompidou Fountain Photo - Centre Pompidou, Paris, France

Quote:

Next up on our whirlwind tour of Parisian museums with my brother-in-law was the Centre Pompidou. What a fantastically ugly building! Wow! I'm sorry but this place made its name by its modern architecture, and I just dont get it - from any angle. It seems the builder is being rewarded for putting the pipes and ductwork on the outside where it becomes a decorative element. As you can tell, I'm not much of a modern art architecture or sculpture lover. Just because you can do something doesn't mean you should do it. Most of this museum was filled with modern artwork from artists I never heard of. Thank god we didn't spend much time here, because we wanted to be able to experience a river boat ride on th...Read More

Member Rating 1 out of 5 on March 1, 2001

Centre Pompidou
Place Georges Pompidou
Paris 75004
+33 (1) 44 78 12 33

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Seine Boat Tours / Dinner Cruise

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Attraction | "Seine River Cruise"

Seine River Cruise Photo - Seine Boat Tours / Dinner Cruise, Paris, France

Quote:

The Seine River flows through the city of Paris and particularly unique, are the many points along the way, near both bridges and metro stations, where one can board sightseeing vessels to get some of the best views of the world's most romantic city. We walked along the river until we got to the Pont du Neuf and boarded one of the sightseeing boats that offered a one hour cruise up and down the Seine. I think it was 14 Francs per adult. The view of the city of Paris from the Seine is completely different from the perspective of the city on land, especially the view of Notre Dame as it looms up from its place of prominence on the Island, the spiky fingers of its flying buttresses starkly silhouetted...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 1, 2001

Seine Boat Tours / Dinner Cruise
Seine River
Paris, France

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Musee Rodin

Attraction | "Rodin Museum"

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The same day we toured the Museum de Invalides, we took in the Rodin Museum. Its just down the road, after all. And a lovely spot it is too. In fact, I think the garden at the Rodin Museum is the best thing about it! The world is full of people, and each of those people have somewhat different tastes. That includes me, and my tastes don't seem to extend favorably towards Rodin. I looked at the pieces and tried to embrace their primitive qualities, their rawness, and so on. Sorry, no luck. I just don't like Rodin. The Thinker is interesting in that it has become such an icon, the same can be said for The Kiss. But other than that...I dunno. On the other hand, I liked the work of Camille Claudel, Rodi...Read More

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on March 1, 2001

Musee Rodin
77, Rue De Varenne
Paris 75007
+33 (1) 44 18 61 10

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Marché Mouffetard

Attraction | "Mouffetard Local Market"

Quote:

We discovered a gem of a place for anyone wanting to sample food while walking around and shopping. One of the best places to hang out and enjoy lunch or dinner is the district of Mouffetard around Rue Mouffetard and Rue Descartes. They have a local market with all the goodies your stomach could desire. Veggies, fruits, cheeses, meats, and more. The back alleys of these two streets are filled with various ethnic restaurants from around the world ranging from local French cuisine to Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, German and Greek. It's perfect to have a Spanish appetizer, a slice of pizza as main course, and some French chocolate crepes for dessert. Small shops are lined up in the alleys and specialize in...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 2, 2001

Marché Mouffetard
Rue Mouffetard
Paris, France

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Sainte-Chapelle

Attraction | "Sainte Chapelle Cathedral"

Quote:

I dinstinctly remember having some of the best crepes in my life on the way to Ste Chapelle. My brother had driven us to one of those innumerable places around the latin quarter for a lunch snack. I remember particularly the silky, zesty orange vanilla sauce that covered the crepes. Heaven! Afterwards, we drove and parked near-by the Notre Dame and then walked over to the Cathedral Sainte-Chapelle. Sainte-Chapelle is lovely, certainly ranking among Paris' must-see attractions. Though not unknown by any means, apparently it doesn't hit the radar screens of many visitors - this was the first time we'd been here and we were the only ones there for quite a while. It is a relatively small chapel, but th...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 1, 2001

Sainte-Chapelle
4 boulevard du Palais
Paris, France 75001
+33 (1) 5340 6080

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Paris - Been There Done That Bought The T-Shirt...