Old York: A One-Stop Guide to English History

The saying goes that a journey to York is a journey through two millennia of English history, and unlike a lot of tourist-board babble, this saying is actually true. York incorporates extant sites (and museums) from the city's days as a Roman garrison town called Euboracum (where the army declared Constantine emperor in 306AD); as a Viking settlement called Jorvik; and as a Norman outpost and later a northern military capital for the English kings. Add to this the excellent Castle Museum (an intimate record of daily life in York through the ages that runs right up to the present day) and the splendid York Minster (one of the most beloved and beautiful cathedrals in the world), and you have a destination fit for a king—or for an amateur history buff, whichever you happen to be.

Quick Tips:

York has an excellent tourist information site at http://www.york-tourism.co.uk/. There's also a visitor's information center in the train station.Tip: don't be afraid to visit York in the off-season, as most of the attractions are indoors, and the city actually looks quite beautiful in the rain. A great destination for those looking to take advantage of cheaper off-season lodging.

Best Way To Get Around:

Getting there from London is easy: York is one of the main stops on the GNER cross-country line, which has trains departing regularly from King's Cross. Book your trains early for steeply discounted fares.As for York, everything within or near the city walls is within easy walking distance. However, visitors lodging on the east side of town will probably want to take a cab from the train station, which is located a block or so outside the walls to the west.

This was a bit of a splurge for us, but a splurge that was well worth it. The rooms were cozy and cute, the owners incredibly friendly, and the breakfasts (included in the room rate) may have been the best breakfasts I've eaten in my life: eggs, sausage, back bacon (ham), black pudding, potatoes, tea, fresh fruit, cereals, and delicious blackcurrant jam, all in a rich red dining room that looked like it belonged somewhere much more expensive (rooms run from £60-80/night). The location is great, too: just outside the walls to the east of the old town, and a short walk from a couple good pubs. If you feel like spoiling yourself for a night or two (but without putting a huge dent in your wallet), this is the place to do it. An especially romantic stop for couples. Bonus: bathrooms are all en-suite. More information can be found at www.barbicanhouse.co.uk

Widely regarded as one of Europe's most beautiful Gothic cathedrals, the York Minster is a reason to come to York in and of itself. The space defies description: a soaring nave, high pointed arches, towering stained glass windows, and a wealth of historic monuments and statuary. It is something one really needs to see for oneself.

The Five Sister's window opposite the main entrance is stunning. Also, be sure not to miss the chapter room, behind the altar area and to the right: the octagonal space was designed for increible acoustics, so that conferring officials in the stone seats around the perimeter could hear one another from opposite sides of the room.

Now, for the technicalities. The Minster actually encompasses three different attractions, with a somewhat complicated admission-pricing arrangement: details are available at http://www.yorkminster.org/index1.html. Discounts offered for children, students, and seniors. Of the three sites, the Minster proper (5GBP) is the main attraction, and includes a free guided tour. For most visitors, the Minster will probably suffice.

Those interested in architecture, Roman or Norman history, or in Church treasury items will also want to visit the Undecroft area (4GBP; 7GBP for Minster and Undercroft), which details the Roman and Norman origins of the site and includes a very informative (and free) audio tour.

Finally, fit visitors may want to scale the tower (3.50GBP), though be advised that the tower closes before the rest of the church. On your way out: don't miss the bronze statue outside the main entrance commemorating the proclamation of Constantine as Roman Emperor in 306 AD, which happened at the Roman fort whose site is currently occupied by the Minster.

I came to York for the history, but I was pleasantly surprised to find out the city's also a destination for beer. York boasts more independent brewpubs per-capita than any other comparable city in England; and the York Brewery, since its establishment in 1996, has become one of the hubs of the real-ale movement.

A quirky little place, whose bar is stuffed up into a cozy old attic (don't worry, it's warm). The York Brewery offers a very informative and personal tour of their craft-brewing operations—newcomers to the art of handcrafted beer are especially welcomed. The £4.50 tour admission is a real bargain, as it includes two half pints of ale for the tasting.

In all, the beers are a quintessential sampling of the British real-ale styles: smooth, flavorful, cask-conditioned, hand-pulled. The staff and clientele are exceptionally welcoming, and since the York Brewery is a local favorite (in a somewhat out-of-the-way part of town), this is a great place to make some quick friends.

http://www.yorkbrew.demon.co.uk/

Don't be deceived: the Castle Museum is named after its location, not its content—it has little to do with the Norman keep looming on a nearby hill. Instead, the Castle Museum is a fascinating record of everyday life throughout the long history of York, combined with a turgid exhibition on the old prison building that constitutes half of the museum's site. The museum contains numerous reconstructed period rooms, a reconstructed Victorian street, and the prison cells of some of Yorkshire's most notorious criminals. The Castle Museum also houses extensive clothing and military exhibits, including an in-depth look at life in York during WWII. In short, the world needs more museums like this, places that can really put visitors into the lives of the past. This is a must, plan on spending a morning at least. For more information, visit http://www.yorkcastlemuseum.org.uk/

In short, it is overrated and overpriced. This Epcot-style introduction to the sights, sounds, and smells of Viking Jorvik is a favorite for schoolchildren; but a definite pass for adults, especially those trying to travel on a dime. Adults pay £7.75 for entry; the pricing structure is a little friendlier for families, but not by much. The exhibit itself is fairly kitschy, and not terribly in-depth. Serious travelers would do best to spend their time and money elsewhere.

I'm not a shopper, but this cute little square, sunk down a short slope near the river, should have everything necessary to appease the shoppers in your midst. In addition to a moderate department store and the obligatory Boots pharmacy, Coppergate also boasts a wealth of brand-name merchandise, as well as a handful of places to eat (including a Starbucks, if you're into that kind of thing). If you have people in your party who are bored by all the historical stuff, this is a good place to lose them for an afternoon while you go see what York has to offer.