Istanbul Adventure

Across the Golden Horn from old Istanbul is the new section of the city called Beyoglu. It is a collection of several neighborhoods that climb the hill from the shores of the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. It is not really a new city, as there were settlements here before Christ. In the 19th century, many Europeans chose to settle here.

There are many modern, upscale shops steps away from our hotel. This district is also known as the old Pera district overlooking the Golden Horn and Bosphorus, and is a 20-minute walk to the old city.

The Mercure is a very modern high-rise hotel located next door to the famous Peri Palis hotel (haunt of Mata Hari and several royals and also the place were Agatha Christie wrote part of "Murder on the Orient Express").

This is a good, solid value hotel, admittedly lacking in the Oriental charm that I would have liked, but its roof-top pool and proximity to the modern shopping center and Taksim square is a plus.

As you enter, the revolving doors the reception desk is located to the left in a small area, but the friendly receptionists are ready to assist with any practical questions. On the same floor on the right is a gift shop and patisserie alongside a small bar area. One floor down is the Internet access, hairdresser, and laundry areas. The restaurant is located on the second floor. It is also the breakfast room.

Rooms are modern and decorated in restful colors, with firm double beds and good bedding. There is the usual en-suite bathroom with fluffy Turkish towels, robes, marble sinks, a hair dryer, and the usual toiletries.

There is a minibar but no safe. (A safety box is at reception.) The bedside lighting was great (general and dim), individual and adjustable. It was handy when reading over the next day’s plans.

We were disappointed to find that our room overlooked the main street, as rooms on the west side of the building overlooked the Golden Horn and you could view the Blue Mosque. Ours overlooked a square and the outlying suburbs. We couldn’t change rooms, as the hotel was full.

You may complain of being awakened by the call to prayer, but the heavily lined drapes should diminish the sound (we left the window open). We were awakened by noise from a nightclub located across the road; however, when I closed the window, the sounds were inaudible.

The whole place is spotless and the staff greets you with smiles and humor. This hotel also offers sightseeing tours and is very eager to help you to get the most out of the city. There were many business clients and a few tour buses.

A full buffet breakfast is included in the room price. It is varied and a good value.

Unfortunately, I did not take photographs of this hotel, except for the two taken from our window. (On pre-IgoUgo travels, I rarely took pictures of our hotel). Our accommodation was $100 per night.

Before entering the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Cami), we spent time wandering around the vast courtyard and gardens. In the center courtyard, as in all Moorish structures, a lovely central fountain predominates. Six minarets reached like stalagmites toward the incredibly blue sky. It was a stunning and unforgettable image evoking the tales of the Arabian Nights. The Turkish architect Mehmet Aga built the mosque in the 1600s. The intention was to build a mosque to outshine that of the Sofya Aya. Both edifices are magnificent. Sultan Ahmet the First ordered that the mosque have six minarets, but he had to pay for a seventh to be added to the mosque in Mecca. We entered the mosque by a side door; only Muslims may enter through the massive main portal. An impassive custodian ensured all footwear was removed whilst scrutinizing the dress of females, as a hair covering is required and supplied if needed. The interior is awash in a sea of blue Iznic tiles (approximately 20,000). It is said that one tile is worth about $35. Soaring aloft is a canopy of heavenly domes supported by four massive pillars. The center dome is 109 feet wide and the pillars are 15 feet thick. Shafts of light from hundreds of stained glass windows bathe the entire room in a magical pale blue haze, which imbue this massive space with illumination and serenity. A huge chandelier lit with tiny bulbs hangs from the center. The wires holding it are barely visible, creating the feeling of a star-filled room. It was a totally mesmerizing experience and I know my description fails to impart its sheer splendor and majesty. The floor coverings are rich ruby-red Turkish carpets with smaller prayer mats atop, but it is the soaring domes and the sheer size of the interior that astounds the visitor. Don’t miss the sound-and-light show every evening at dusk. The show is in a different language each evening, but whatever the language, it is not to be missed.

There is so much to see and do in Istanbul. We were there for 2 days, but it was not enough time for us to see all that this city had to offer. On our first morning, we were awakened at 5am with the Muezzins call to prayer; it is an eerie sound at any time of the morning. I hurried to the window, not to close it, but to savor the moment. Looking out of the window, I saw a man with a cart filled with bread. He poured water upon his feet and head, then prostrated himself upon the ground. I learned later that this ritual washing is a requirement before devotions. It was an awesome experience, watching the sunrise in that fabled city whilst listening to the ancient call to prayer. After breakfast and armed with maps, we walked to the historic section. We set off early because we wanted to beat the tour buses at the Topkapi Palace. The walk was lovely and mostly downhill. Throngs of people on their way to work added to the atmosphere. The Sultanahmet is where you will find the main monuments: Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, Sultan Ahmet Cami, Grand Bazzar, Hippodrome, Archaeological Museum, and Basilica Cistern.Topkapi Palace: The highlight of our visit to Istanbul was the Topkapi Palace, the sumptuous home of past sultans and seat of the Ottoman Empire, which was a breathtaking experience. The palace consists of four courts, with a collection of buildings totally unlike like British palaces. We spent half a day there, and I know we skimmed only the surface. Don’t miss the fabulous horde of treasure and precious stones in the treasury. The treasury exhibits are breathtaking. It is an Aladdin’s cave overflowing with riches. The treasury, with its entire cache, takes up four rooms. The famous Spoonmaker's Diamond sits alone on a cushion. It weighs 86 carats and was awe-inspiring. My husband didn’t spend much time there, as he was decidedly nervous. Perhaps he felt I would want to top the visit off with a shopping spree. Seeing the famous Topkapi dagger encrusted with diamonds was spectacular; in fact, the whole exhibition was mind-boggling. Guards standing at the door must get quite a kick out of seeing us tourists pressing our faces to the glass like kids in a candy store.There is also a collection of dazzling turban crests studded with diamond lumps. As we left the treasury, we saw two beautiful emeralds that once hung from the ceiling. They weighed 3 pounds and 6 pounds respectively. After leaving the treasury, we crossed the courtyard to the pavilion of the holy mantle. It is a sacred place; the Koran is read out loud all day in front of an alcove. The alcove contains a cloak, two swords, and other relics of Mohammed. We did not linger. It was a small area that quite crowded with heavily veiled pilgrims, and we just felt a bit like interlopers. On the west side of the court is the Imperial Council Chamber (Divan-Humayuna). All state affairs were conducted there. It was known as Divan because the council lounged on the couches that lined the walls. Just to keep them on their toes and to prevent plots, the sultan spied on the them by means of a latticed window hidden by a curtain, known as Eye of the Sultan. I have only touched on a few of the highlights of the palace, but there are many more. The palace kitchens, where meals used to be prepared for 5,000 people, have a unique collection of Chinese porcelain. The vast harem, with its apartments and terraces, is well worth the extra cost. Admission to the palace is $6.50, while the harem is $4. It is open Wednesday to Monday 9am to 4:30pm. The harem closes at 4pm. The tours around the harem are guided (mandatory) and commence every 30 minutes. Lunch at the restaurant in the fourth court was good value for the view, atmosphere, and food. We each had a beer, plus a rice and very tasty pepper dish. (The bill was less than $10.) We had a table overlooking the Bosporus. As we sat there, we watched odd-looking crafts plying the river. (I learned they are called kayics.) They were flat and wide, and both ends seem to taper upwards. We also saw a large cruise ship, but couldn’t see the line. After lunch, we decided to visit the blue mosque. The mosque is not blue, as it gets its name from the stunning blue tiles that cover its interior. (See activity entry.) The Hippodrome: A short walk from the mosque is the Hippodrome, the scene of many riots, including one in 532 that gutted the entire St. Sofia area. At one time it was the main place where all mass assemblies were held. Severus, the Roman emperor, laid out the area in A.D. 203. Chariot races, circuses, and pageants were all held here. In the middle of the racetrack stood the obelisk of PharaohThutmes111. This was brought from Egypt by Theodosius the Great. It still stands along with the broken remains of a serpentine column purloined from the temple of Apollo at Delphi. A fountain donated by Kaiser Wilhelm11 in 1898 can still be seen. Yerebatan Saray Sarnici: In my mind, this underground cistern built by Justinian in 532 has to be one of the best sites in Istanbul. After a 39-foot descent, you will be awed at the spectacular vaults upheld by 39 illuminated columns. This Byzantine built cistern was connected to an aqueduct to ensure fresh water during sieges and to provide the palace. There is a definite air of intrigue and mystery. This cistern was restored around 1987 and a wooden platform ensures dry feet. There is also a café were you could sit, eat, and admire the elaborate archways; it is eerily fascinating. Admission is $5. Open daily from 9am to 4pm. This account ends our first day in this wonderfully intriguing city.