Excellent Edinburgh

The Caledonian Hilton Edinburgh is an absolutely beautiful hotel. It offers all the luxury of the Hilton brand; yet it still retains the fine personality of the grand dame it has been since it was first built over a hundred years ago in 1903. (It wasn't acquired by Hilton until 2000.) Called "the Caley" by local residents, this hotel is steeped in history. Always opulent it has been the host to both movie stars and dignitaries. I found it interesting to learn that American cowboy Roy Rogers once rode his horse Trigger down the grand staircase! Now that's a trip, isn't it?

What was our room like? It felt like a suite with its own small foyer. The room itself was huge with 14 foot high ceilings and tons of floor space. We opened the heavy green curtains on the windows to take in the view of Edinburgh Castle perched on the hill above us. As the sinking sun turned the sky pink, we opened the bottle of wine the Hilton had left for us on a table as a welcome gift and ate sugar topped oranges. Our son was happy with the roll-away bed that was already prepared for him near a desk in our room. After walking through the freezing cold streets outside, I loved standing under a hot shower. The sound from the television in the bedroom was piped into speakers in the bathroom. There was also a separate tub. Water bottles were waiting for us on the nightstands after turn-down. There's a full service health club plus a pool and jacuzzi open until 8 PM.

How was the location? This is in the heart of where a tourist would want to be in Edinburgh. In the morning we had no problem taking a brisk walk up Princes Street to get to the castle where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to the first monarch who would rule both Scotland and England. My son loved how close we were to a small festival taking place in the middle of a park as the city geared up for Hogmany. While the restaurant in the hotel is famous, we chose to eat elsewhere. A pub directly across the street from the hotel's main entrance accepted children in the mornings and offered a very nice breakfast. The only time we used a cab was to get from the airport. The train station was even close.

Bottom line? If your budget will withstand some splurging, you'll be very comfortable at the Caledonian. With incredible service in a stunning setting, I'd have to put this five star hotel in my "top five list" for best hotels I've ever personally visited.

I was going to Edinburgh with two dear friends who happen to be professional musicians; therefore, the grand piano in the sitting room of 7 Gloucester Place was a deciding factor when choosing this B&B for our weekend. Naomi, the charming lady who runs the place, said we were more than welcome to use this instrument during our stay, so we did. It was absolutely fabulous to have a glass of wine after a long day of sightseeing. We had a great chat with our hostess while playing a few songs using her sheet music. Naomi is animated and interesting. Her dog, Quail, sleeps in a bed by the piano and has the sweetest of dispositions.

If you aren't a piano player, however, this is still a great place to use as a base to explore the city. Near the castle, it's within walking distance of pretty much anything you'd like to see. A bus-stop is also close if this is how you're traveling to and from the airport.

While the art deco bathroom with the mustard tiles was being used by another couple in residence during our stay, my friends' double room was en suite with their own fireplace. I was by myself for this trip, so I stayed in the smaller room with use of a separate bath on another floor, a good option for a single. I loved the window seat in my room. My friends had a TV available, though I'm not sure they ever used it. I did not have this little luxury in my room, but I was provided with tea and coffee facilities. Good books are sprinkled throughout the house, and I preferred these anyway. The beds are very comfortable. I had use of a wardrobe for my clothes. Breakfast in the morning is made to order and fabulous with lots of fresh fruit. The house itself is absolutely brilliant, Georgian and decorated tastefully with an Asian influence. It's not the cheapest place to stay in the city, but you get a high quality for what you pay.

With a more personal feel than any hotel could provide, I'd certainly stay here again.

We wanted to eat in a nice restaurant that offered fine Scottish cuisine. Jackson's was within walking distance of our hotel---about halfway between Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace on the Royal Mile---so we made reservations.

Walking down a narrow flight of steps to the door, we were greeted by a smiling host who took our coats and welcomed us into the warm restaurant. The small room in which we were seated had a cozy, romantic feel to it. Tapestries hung across the walls, which lent a medieval atmosphere to the place. We took our time looking at the compact menu before ordering everything from a Ribeye of Scotch beef to a vegetarian artichoke risotto. My husband got some traditional haggis as an appetizer for us all to try.

How was the meal? We enjoyed dinner, but we weren't blown away by our food. It was very good but not as spectacular as the bill. With that said, if it's your poison, they had a wonderful selection of Scotch whiskeys to choose from. I also have to give a nod to the great service. Our waiter was the perfect amount of attentive, and the courses came out at a steady pace.

Bottom line? I liked Jackson's. I didn't love it. The location was great for us as we needed to walk to the Mercat Cross after our meal for the start of an evening ghost tour. Trust me. It was very good to have the warmth of a stiff drink still in our stomachs as the sky opened up and dusted the world with snow.

Rutland's is the pub beneath the Rutland Hotel across from the Caledonian Hilton. It's known for its nightlife when children aren't allowed anywhere inside to hear the live music. However, we didn't visit when the place was in full swing. Instead, we popped in here for breakfast.

What was it like? With lots of yellows, greens, oranges, dark wood tables, giant mirrors, decorative mosaic tiles, and comfy couches, I could easily imagine this pub being a good place to hang out at night. The long brown bar was still wrapped in tinsel for Christmas, which lent an extra festive feel to the joint. In the morning, however, things were very quiet. An attentive waiter quickly brought each of us a menu. He had the kitchen cook my eggs to order. My son liked the croissants slathered with jelly. The coffee came quick. What can I really say about the quality of morning sausage?

Bottom line?The prices here were a third of what they would have been at the Hilton. Very reasonable. Good food. We obviously liked it because we ate here twice while in Edinburgh.

Normally I wouldn't think about doing a review of Mickey D's. We've all eaten there. We all know what it's like to order a Happy Meal. However, after a couple of weeks in the United Kingdom, my son had a Mac Attack in a big way, and our wallets were groaning. So I gave in.

I have to admit, I was pleasantly surprised. In addition to the regular McDonald's fare, I saw that I could order a vegetable sandwich with salsa, onions, peppers and cheese. Or a deli sandwich that went hand in hand with the dining area's black-and-white tiled floor and deli decor. Or a cappucino instead of a plain coffee. I loved the "less pounds for less pounds" menu. I'm sure it still wasn't exactly healthy eating, but I didn't leave feeling as if I'd consumed complete rubbish either.

The big plus? More important than the unique menu, I noticed an Internet cafe was here at this McDonalds. (Go up the stairs.)

Bottom line? Stop by if you're running low on funds and you need to check your email.

With a kid in tow, we decided to go on an early evening walking tour. After dinner, we braved the cold night and walked to the Mercat Cross where we paid a guide to join the Haunted Underground Experience. Our guide was an older gentleman wearing a long, black cloak and derby hat. He had a booming voice, which he needed as he spun his tales of darkness to our small group.

Every time he asked for a volunteer, our son, the only child on the tour, raised his hand high in the air. The kid was absolutely thrilled when he got to stand in as a traveler who had his tongue cut out for giving a public toast in Edinburgh to the English queen. So, obviously, some of the tales were a wee bit... uh... graphic. Don't take young children or anyone who is squeamish.

With that said, our 11-year-old son ate it all up.

As for the adults, we were happy to get out of the cold and walk into the underground vaults. We have always loved haunted tours that give us some sense of history along with the ghosts. We did get some of this here as we learned how peddlers set up shop under the city. The vaults themselves were eerie, lit by candles.

With our tour running a little over an hour long, we skipped the drink afterwards and headed back to our hotel... our son looking for ghoulies around each corner.

Cost? This varies based on which tour you take and whether or not you go to a tavern afterwards. Kids get a price break, and the tickets we bought were a reasonable 7 pounds.

More information? Go to www.mercattours.com.

Edinburgh Castle is perched atop volcanic rock that was formed millions of years ago. This beautiful piece of architecture is in the perfect defensive position, and it has an interesting history of siege. It was the attraction we wanted to see in Scotland, so we were excited to make the steep climb up Princes Street and to the front gate on Castle Hill.

How much did it cost? Entrance into the castle was less than 10 pounds a person. An audioguide was available for an extra fee. It was well worth the money!

What was using the audioguide like? Throughout the castle small numbers are on display beside certain significant features. We punched these into our audioguides and heard wonderfully detailed narratives that added to our experience.

For example, outside of a tiny chapel dedicated to Saint Margaret, we learned how this eleventh century queen loved her husband so much that she died of a broken heart shortly after he fell on the field of battle.

Finding tales of war far more interesting than tales of love and woe, my son stared from dizzy heights across the battlements as he listened to a dramatic recounting of the "long siege" in which the supporters of Mary Queen of Scots were forced to surrender after a two-year-long hold out.

We couldn't listen to every story, however, because there were several museums to explore as well as the crown jewels to see!

What highlights are worth a mention? I liked standing in the tiny room where Elizabeth Tudor's cousin Mary Stewart gave birth in the 1500s to the boy who would eventually be the first king of Scotland AND England. American visitors will find it interesting to learn that some American sailors were held prisoner in the castle as evidenced by the carvings of a young nation's flag still preserved in a prison cell's wooden door. There is also a solemn memorial chapel to visit that honors all the men from Scotland who have fought to defend her.

Is there food here? There is a small cafe in which we got coffee and snacks. The warm drinks were especially nice because the weather is so brisk in December.

How much time should be alotted? We spent the better part of a day happily exploring the castle, but I would say you'd need at least a half-day to do the attraction justice, even if you went at a faster pace.

What ages does this attraction appeal to? This will be a hit with everyone in the family. Our son liked is as much as we did. With that said, I'm not sure how friendly it would be to people who have a hard time walking. Some of the fun is going up the narrow staircases and exploring. I may be wrong, but I didn't see a lot of handicap access.

Bottom line? A must see.

We saw an advertisement for the Literary Pub Tour while we were walking around Edinburgh and decided it would be great entertainment for the evening. We weren't wrong. We showed up at the Beehive Pub around 7:15pm—the tour starts at 7:30 every night in the summer—and bought tickets from a girl out front. She suggested we grab a pint and wait upstairs in a meeting room where our "hosts" would collect our group. This was good advice. We would spend a comfortable half hour or so at the Beehive and, well, this is a pub crawl as well as a literary adventure.

Basically, a guy showed up at the right time and started an introduction to literature in Edinburgh and how the sometimes bawdy soul of the city influenced Scottish writers. Eventually another guy we thought was part of the group interrupts and challenges our host on some of his premises. It's a really delightful back-and-forth that promises lots of laughter and a bit of history thrown in.

We left the Beehive and moved along the tour, stopping at a couple of places outside so that we could continue to hear the "debate." A lightweight myself, I didn't order drinks at every stopping place though a girl in her twenties who looked a lot like a Welsh version of Lindsey Lohan amused us all by trying to keep up with that pace. Fortunately, she stopped at "tipsy" rather than "obnoxious."

One place where we gathered wasn't a pub at all but out in front of the Edinburgh Writer's Museum. It was closed for the evening, but we made a point of circling back to it the next day. It's a free museum, and it's well worth a visit. I think we all enjoyed the exhibits here a lot more because we had gotten an introduction to the writers from the literary tour!

While I would not suggest this walk to anyone who has a mobility issue, there was only really one hard climb on the tour. We moved at a leisurely enough pace and ended the tour at a pub (of course!) after about two hours.

A definite highlight in Edinburgh worth the £8 per ticket.

For more information, you can visit www.edinburghliterarypubtour.co.uk or email the company at info@scot-lit-tour.co.uk.

Once upon a time, Edinburgh was a dark and dirty place packed to the gills with people who threw their trash into the streets and found shelter like rats forced to live in dank and lightless rooms. As the city was built up, many of these "streets" or "closes" were quarantined and sealed off to combat the spread of the plague. Mary King's Close has been preserved, and adults and children alike will find it a fascinating place to see.

What was our visit like? At the appointed time for our tour, a cheerful character guide met us in the visitor's center/gift shop and escorted us into the close. She was energetic and cheerful as she advised us to turn off our "magic boxes" and follow her down to to the street where her mother, Mary King, used to keep shop. We quickly got the feeling that any nostalgia for the long-gone past is misplaced as we could see the "prosperous" merchants who would live at the top of a close where they got the most light were still subjected to living conditions that would be unheard of in even the poorest third world countries of today. I had to shudder as our character guide joked about running barefoot on the cobbles where human waste would have flowed in the gutters. Ewww. Deeper into the close we went with the guide's torchlight to follow. Some of the rooms had things inside to aid in the telling of tales about the people. In one room, the torch was shut off and we heard a ghost story. (No worries. It wasn't that frightening.) It was marvelous entertainment. I would highly recommend this to anyone looking for something uniquely Edinburgh.

What if you don't speak English? A German couple who were in our group had audio wands to give them a narrative of each room in their native language.

Opening hours
10am-9pm, Sunday-Saturday, April-October
10am-4pm, Sunday-Friday, November-March
10am-9pm, Saturday Only, November-March
Closed Christmas Day

More information? Visit the website at www.realmarykingsclose.com.

Holyroodhouse is still an official residence of the reigning British queen. It was the preferred palace of Scottish monarchs in Edinburgh because it is much more comfortable than Ediburgh Castle, which is better fortified and higher up on an imposing granite hill. In contrast, surrounded by green, Holyroodhouse is located just a stone's throw from the beautiful Arthur's Seat that one can climb, if so inclined. It is across the street from the very modern building that houses the Scottish parliament. It is beside the Abbey that was founded in homage to God in 1128 by a king who had a vision of a stag with a cross between his antlers.

I wanted to visit Holyroodhouse because I have always been fascinated by Tudor history, and Mary, Queen of Scots certainly factors into Queen Elizabeth I's story. It was in Holyroodhouse that Mary set up residence after returning to her country from France. It was also here that this ill-fated queen saw her private secretary—an Italian musician—murdered under the gaze of her cousin and second husband who wished to have more power as king. From that point, Mary made many political mistakes that resulted in her fleeing to England for help. What she got from Elizabeth I was imprisonment and (eventually) execution.

So what was my visit like?
I had a very nice time walking through the rooms at Holyroodhouse with a tour wand that explained everything I was seeing in the royal apartments. I could understand why royals find this palace more intimate than some other, bigger palace homes in Britain. Yet Holyroodhouse is still quite grand. In addition to walking through Mary, Queen of Scots' private chambers, I found it interesting to see a portrait of the first king who wore tartan again upon a visit to Scotland after a ban on this traditional clothing had been in place for many decades because of the unsuccessful Jacobite rising and the crushing of Highlander power by the English. Though it was overcast and wet, I also liked wandering in the pretty garden by the abbey ruins. The whole thing made for a pleasant couple of hours. (You could go faster—an hour—if you don't linger.)

Cost?
My ticket was £9.50. Seniors are £8.50. Kids under 17 are £5.50. Under fives are free.

Hours
November-March, 9:30am-4:30pm.
April-October, 9:30am-6pm.

Other things to see
You can get a "combo" ticket that allows you entry into The Queen's Gallery at Holyroodhouse. Exhibits change here but are all part of the Royal Collection.