Three Weeks in Morocco

There were many highlights for me, but here are the most memorable: Wandering the labyrinth of alleyways in the old city of Fes; Visit to the Roman city of Volubilis near Meknes; the J'ma-el-F'na Square of Marrakech; sleeping in the desert near Merzouga; ride by local bus over the High Atlas Mountains from Taroudant to Marrakech;the Todra Gorge near Tinehrir.

Quick Tips:

Knowledge of French and some words in Arabic is very helpful, especially off the beaten path. Always have small change and bills handy for tips and small purchases. Smile but be persistent in not accepting offers of "guides".

Best Way To Get Around:

Travel between towns by "grands taxis" or shared 7-passenger cabs-often Mercedes. In the large cities, "petit taxis" often follow the bus routes and you can be dropped exactly where you want 'en route'. The train is good on the route from Casablanca to Rabat and Fes.

This was a good 3-star hotel in an excellent location. It was walking distance from the main "souq" (market) of Casablanca and steps from the main pedestrian mall called "Le Prince", with its great cafes. No atmosphere, but it seemed like a business hotel so the reception was multi-lingual and friendly. I left some clothes for a few weeks while touring, with no problems. The rate included breakfast. If you want a quieter room, ask for "une chambre interieure". It is near a good local restaurant called "Welcome" where a full meal was under $7 USD. Casablanca is NOT the movie and only worth a couple of days to adapt before hitting the real Morocco.

This was unique Berber accommodation on the fringe of the Sahara desert, with the famous Erg-Chebi sand dunes as a backdrop. I hooked up with a European group in nearby Erfoud for an overnight experience. The accommodation choices at the "inn" were: a private room, a matress inside a large tent, or under the stars on the roof of the inn. There were sheephair blankets to guard against the night desert chill. The washrooms were communal and there was an outdoor shower. The evening meal was a good Moroccan tagine with red wine and Berber after-dinner entertainment. The skies were a carpet of stars. The sunset and dawn walks on my own in the sand dunes were awesome. As it was spring, there were even flowers poking out through the sand. This was a very enjoyable experience.

This place was a guidebook-recommended and lucky find in Marrakech - a short walking distance from the souq. The atmosphere was French-colonial. The room was small but spotless and comfortable with fresh flowers on the bureau. The small hotel (less than 25 rooms) had a beautiful central courtyard with fountain, where breakfast was served. The room rate single without bath was about $12 US. Down the side street is a local "hammam"(steam bath) for shaking off the travelers'' aches and pains, and a wonderful French "patisserie" around the corner leading to the famous J''maa-el-F''naa square.

This was the best hotel I stayed at in Morocco. It combined ambiance (a restored Kasbah on a quiet street, modern European fixings and local handicrafts in rooms. The owner, a mountain guide from Barcelona, spoke various languages and the staff was friendly. There is even laundry service. This small town is the gateway for the famous Todra Gorge (don''t miss it!) and a great rest-stop between Erfoud and Ouarzazate. Food at the hotel, served in a peaceful courtyard, was excellent. Nearby is the village ''hammam'' for a wonderful Moroccan steam and massage. Who could ask for more?

A great place for healthy Morrocan cuisine (including Vegetarian selections). Spotlessly clean and friendly, this is a good place to hook up with other travelers for an overnite at the nearby sand dunes of Erg-Chebi; or simply trade travel yarns and tips. The place is family owned and run by two brothers who are genuinely helpful. A great place to sit outside in April, and watch the passing parade in this rose-coloured small town on the fringe of the Sahara.

This place is a real find for a special treat in Ourzazate, a former French Foreign Legion outpost in colonial days. This place reeks of atmosphere with fine French cuisine combine with fresh Moroccan herbs and ingredients. The service is elegant with reminders of Paris and very knowledable and friendly. If you stick to a "prix fixe" and a glass of wine, the price is excellent value. Don't miss dessert - the pastries are exceptional. The decor is French-colonial with artifacts from the period. A reservation is recommended especially at the height of European vacation times. This is a rare find in an otherwise package-tour stop town. The nearby walled town of Ait-bin-Haddou is magnificent: don't miss it, but fix an all-inclusive taxi-rate beforehand.

This is one of the best free shows in the world. Toward sunset and before the final payers at the mosques get out (5:30-6 p.m.), secure a table with a good view (arrive early!) at a cafe/restaurant overlooking the immense J'ma-el-F'na square in Old Marrakech. Linger over wine or hors-d'oeuvres ("mezza") and watch the fun begin. The square fills with performers and food vendors of all kinds to entertain both the locals and tourists. It is like a surreal 12-ring circus. Tables at restaurants are often shared in the square- a great way to meet locals (French helps alot!) Beware of scams when taking individual photos but a tip is warranted or expected. The crowds are huge as night falls, so be aware of securing any valuables.

This was a bus trip to remember! It started in the pre-dawn in Taroudant (a beautiful walled town 60 miles inland from Agadir). My small hotel had the night clerk wake me and I was amazed at a "breakfast to go" of an orabge and 'pain au chocolat'. Shivering in the early morning chill, my Berber companions waiting for the bus offered me some hot tea at 5 a.m. The old TMS bus finally appeared and the next seven hours consisted of vistas to boggle the mind. In April, the passes were open and snow was melting over the Haut Atlas Mountains. I was the only tourist on board and passengers got on and off seemingly in the middle of nowhere. The 'road' was so narrow that apparently there are certain days for one-way travel on this route as there are few "pull-outs" for two vehicles of any size to pass each other. The road wound upward and upward until we reached the crest and started descending toward Marrakech. Luckily, the driver stopped for a bathroom and snack/coffeee break. I arrived exhausted about 1 p.m. at the central bus station of Marrakech and found a taxi for a 10 dirham ride to the Hotel Gallia on the quiet street Bab Agenou right near the entrance to the Medina and Souk. Though the guidebooks warned against the dizzying heights, I felt quite safe and arrived having experienced an exhilerating bus-ride no escorted tour would offer. This is definitely recommended for those of any age who enjoy a sense of adventure and want to travel with the locals.