Central and South America Ports of Call

This is a diver's paradise—clear warm water, an abundance of colorful fish and a very healthy reef system.We had a very short stay 8am - 3pm during our cruise—no question that we were headed to the beach—the ship docks in Coxen Hole just a short walk to town. The main street is lined with shops and colorful kiosks selling local crafts. The West End is more appealing to tourists—that's about 30 minutes away.We had read that you could negotiate taxi fares or even take very inexpensive buses or minivans that transport locals. We walked out of the immediate port area to attempt our bargaining—the taxi drivers seem to have agreed among themselves not to drop their fare—after a few unsuccessful attempts to get a cheap ride to the beach, we agreed on $30 round trip to the West End—small town with restaurants and beach bars (that's where we THOUGHT we wanted to go). Once in the cab, the driver suggested West Bay (we hadn't heard about this area) and wanted $40 round trip. Oh! Oh!, "bait and switch"!!He assured us that we would be very happy there, that the beach was nicer. He offered to take us there and if we didn't like it, he would take us to West End and charge the lower price. We were skeptical, but went along with his recommendation, we wanted beach, snorkeling and no cruise ship crowds.After a long interesting drive through lush mountains with lots of new construction going on and beautiful views of both shorelines, we turn onto a dirt road. We walk through an open air bar to the beach... What a delight!! A beautiful 1/2 mile cove of soft white sand, calm clear water. We rented two chairs for $5.00—the snorkeling from shore was not to our liking, so we hired a small boat for $10 per person for 1 hour. We rode along the shore for a few minutes, a nice sightseeing tour with Winston, our captain and guide, providing a commentary. The reef was colorful, the coral heads covered in vegetation and fans, colorful schools of fish made this their home, I even saw a baby barracuda.Hard sand along the water line made it easy to walk past small hotels, villas, one all inclusive resort, and a few beach bars. Lots of new building in progress. All is clean, people are friendly and all spoke English. Food and drinks are inexpensive. Lobster $16, burgers $5, rum/coke $3. Water taxis take you to the West End for $2 per person.All too soon, it was time to leave... but not forever... soon we will be back for a much longer stay. I don't know how long this area will stay pristine. It reminded us of Negril 20 years ago, and Turks and Caicos 10 years ago. Roatan is about to become very popular—best to go sooner than later.

Although not in Central America, Jamaica was the first stop on our cruise, so I've inserted this entry in this cruise port journal. If you're not inclined to take a ship sponsored tour or to venture very far from the port - Margaritaville is a good option. Hopefully, you dock at the main pier with a walkway connecting to Island Village. Unfortunately, we were the second ship in....so we were assigned to an industrial pier - It may be called "James Bond Pier," but I'm not sure. Even so, this pier is a 10-minute walk or a $2 per person cab ride to Island Village.

Margaritaville has a "Senor Frog" - Carlos and Charlies" atmosphere - fun time, drinks, food, music - everybody is happy. If you're at the main dock, just was through Island Village with all it's gift shops and bars and you'll find Margaritaville sitting on the beach. The cab driver may attempt to lure you into taking a tour, but we politely refused and it was no problem.

There is a $3 per person charge to use the beach facilities, but if you purchase any food or drinks, the fee is waived and you're given a bracelet allowing you access. Lounge chairs are $5 each but negotiable to two for $7. The beach is a small cove with a couple of other bar/restaurants, all much more quiet, hair-braiding and massage. Guards patrol the beach and vendors are not allowed on property... oh yes... they are there but they must have their feet in the water. There's a trampoline for guests use and a slide restricted to children's use.

The Margaritaville complex gives you the option of dining either on the sand or on the deck. The deck has tables surrounding a pool, a large bar and a dance floor with DJ. The second floor, a more quiet area, has tables overlooking the water, a Jacuzzi with ocean view and a slide that ends in the pool below. Being in such close proximity to the pier, it attracts mainly the passengers. Get there early and you'll find cruise ship staff and a quiet atmosphere. As the day goes on, people drop in for lunch and those that have been on tour usually end up here for last minute shopping and a drink before returning to the ship. The afternoon crowd is lively!

Click here on MARGARITAVILLE - they offer a free margarita to anyone who finds salt shakers. Hint...you must browse the "store" and look carefully, the slat shakers keep moving - and each person needs a coupon. It's only a 4-ounce drink but it's good, the second one you order will be $6 but twice the size. Enjoy!!

Always looking for a new place to snorkel and scuba dive, we were happy to see that Belize City was on the itinerary of one of our recent cruises on the Norwegian Spirit. From what I'd read in guidebooks, it seems like a laid back island and paradise for the diver.

Knowing that we would be there for only a few hours, we knew that we would have to go directly to Ambergris Caye and not have any time to spend in Belize City. We looked into a few different options - a short flight to Ambergris Caye from Belize City.......would definitely do this if we were to spend a period of time there. Another option was to take a ferry boat - problem....are they reliable time wise.....our cruise ship leaves on time and will not wait for a late ferry.

Another glitch.....Diving and snorkeling tours leave in the morning and afternoon....We'd never get there in time for the morning trip and the afternoon trip would not get us back to the cruise ship in time. So......we "bit the bullet" and signed up for the "Shark Ray Alley and Ambergris Caye" tour sponsored by the NCL cruise ship - a 7 1/2 hour tour for $104.00 per person.

It was described as a one hour speed boat journey to Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley for snorkeling on Belize's Barrier Reef. We would swim with stingrays and brown nurse sharks. Then it would be on to San Pedro in Amergris Caye for lunch and free time for shopping and walking before our return to Belize City. Sounded like a good compromise - we'd snorkeled with stingrays in Grand Cayman and it was so exciting....and sharks would be a new experience.....and we'd get to see Ambergris Caye and scope out a hotel for our return stay. ....Let's do it !!!

Now for the real story.....We disembark early via tender and follow the signs directing us to our tour meeting point. Our speedboat is an old open boat with a missing awning - no shelter from the sun for 7 1/2 hours.....Wow !!We are a group of 12 or so.....all excited about sharks and rays. Our first stop is a sheltered cove about an hour away. We are given a short informative talk of the ecology on the Belize area and its marine life, offered cold drinks and given snorkeling equipment - we had our own - but the rental equipment did seem in good condition.

A few minutes later, we arrive at Shark Ray Alley....two other boats there, the water is very shallow and is protected by a reef about two hundred yards away - Oh - there are the rays - coming to be fed. The fishermen used to clean their catch in this shallow area and this attracted the rays and sharks - they are very "people friendly". We'll be in this area for about 45 minutes - the rays are close to the boat, but we must swim out to the reef to see the sharks....It's a plan....Off we go...We swim around with the rays for a few minutes and head off toward the reef.
It's tough getting there....the wave action is against us and unless you really swim constantly, you make no progress. We do get to the reef - not very impressive or colorful - there are a few small fish around but no sharks.

Disappointed, we return aboard and continue on for another 45 minutes to Ambergris Caye. The trip is smooth and we pass lots of Cayes, some with beautiful homes and yachts and others with small fishing boats and simple shelters. Ambergris Caye is a long narrow island, quite built up with diving operations along the shore and a variety of accommodations. We stop for an included lunch at a restaurant/bar along the shore. No choice of menu - Chicken with rice and beans and soda - Doesn't look very appetizing....but it is delicious - Not a speck left....we licked the platter clean!!
We venture away from the shore for our hour or so of free time. A two block area is developed for tourists and beyond that it was local housing. The streets are not paved - they call them sand - but to us it's dirt. A few bars and restaurants, diving equipment, souvenirs - very laid back and casual - we went to the internet cafe and walked on for about 1/2 mile and returned to our "speedboat" along the shoreline.

San Pedro was disappointing - the water is very shallow and full of eel grass, so snorkeling and diving require a boat trip each time - they do go out three times daily and prices are reasonable for packages. It did not feel like a vacation community - No beach chairs or umbrellas along the shore - You just sit on your towel - even at the hotels. No pools, landscaping or music. Not many people around - probably all out diving and the town probably becomes alive at night?????

Time to leave - we bid farewell.....As we start our return trip, one of the engines breaks down, so we have a slow ride back.....More cold drinks - the mates are busily trying to restart the second engine but with no luck......thank goodness that we are on an NCL excursion....they won't sail without us. We had hoped to return in time to spend an hour or so in Belize city, but we are late and are taken direcly to the cruise ship that is anchored out and waiting for our return.

Glad to have seen Ambergris Caye - we may not return. We did expect casual and laid back, and could spend a weekend here, but I think a week would be too long. Swimming with the rays in Grand Cayman was more exciting and better organized - and unfortunately,we can't comment on the sharks. So far - we like Roatan, Honduras - the beaches are more beautiful, the reef and marine life more colorful and accommodations are better suited to Americans.

Delightful to behold - You could be in the South Pacific!! Small islands with palm trees popping out of the clear blue water everywhere.The ship must anchor off-shore and tender you in—only 5 minutes. The San Blas Islands are home to the Kuna Indians. They live a primitive life by choice. Children to grade 6 are educated on the islands, then go to Panama City. Most women speak only the Kuna language. They dress very colorfully in their Mola fabrics, paint their faces and wear lots of jewelry. Some men go off Island to Panama City to work, the others fish or take cruise ship passengers on Panga excursions.As soon as the ship anchors off-shore, pangas (dug out canoes) with boys meet the ship and yell "money-money". Many of us thought that they were greeting us with "'Morning-'morning"—but you soon realize that they want coins tossed that they dive for. They're very adept, they have masks to see more clearly underwater and always a younger boy on board with a coin purse or plastic baggy for their catch. As the day wears on, families come with young infants and children, hoping that you'll take a photo of them for a dollar as you leave on the tender. At one point, I counted 18 pangas alongside the ship.Once ashore there is a large local crafts market—very colorful with the "molas" that the Kuna Indians are renowned for. These are colorful layers of cloth overelaid in designs to make purses, masks, shirts, wall hangings. There is some jewelry, not made here, but the men are proud of their handcarved sailboats and pangas that sell for $2.00. This particular island houses a museum ($2.00 entry fee, a hotel (very simple), a restaurant serving fresh caught fish and chicken, and two bars. Again, think remote and islandy and rustic… no frills here.The two beaches are sandy for a distance—chest deep and then you'll deal with eel grass, but the water is warm and clear. Plan to use your towels to sit on. There are a few palapas that are claimed early and also a few chairs belonging to the hotel. Along the shoreline are pangas designed to seat about 6 people, these take you on a tour of the other nearby islands or snorkeling for $10 per person. The ship also uses them for their tours. Plan to pay more if you want multiple stops.Unfortunately, we didn't get to the outer islands because of the intermittent showers on the day we were in port. Definitely worthwhile getting off the ship here—have a good breakfast. You'll enjoy the day and the colorful inhabitants of this island. Makes you feel miles away from the hustle bustle of your everyday life.CLICK HERE to see internet pictures of San Blas Islands and the Kuna Indians.

The Lirica docks are within walking distance of the town of Limon - As you exit the ship, a few tour operators have set up tents to book excursions; they'll ask if you want to wait for a few more people going in the same direction in order to fit into a minivan rather than a taxi (bringing the per person cost down). Bear in mind, that although less expensive than the cruise shihp rates, they are still somewhat higher priced than the vendors outside the cruise ship gates. If you feel comfortable doing so and If you are the "do-it-on-your-own" type - walk on through the crafts market a few feet further and negotiate with a taxi on the street.

The craft market has about the best of what you can find in th city - the wood carvings are unique and leather goods are inexpensive. Lots of coffee samples - chocolate covered coffee beans are great - they'll even ship your order home if you wish. Many ladies were getting manicures, pedicures, and even massages. If you are considering doing this, I suggest bringing along your own manicure set...saw no evidence of sanitizing equipment at the outdoor market. And we also did notice that bargaining was somewhat easier in the afternoon as ship departure time got closer.

Once we got to the street, we spoke with a few cab drivers and ended up paying $20 per person for a short drive through the city - no stops - then onto the start of the Tortoruga Canal for a one hour boat tour. We were only two of us in a canopied panga that could seat 8. Our cab driver negotiated a $20 per person rate down from the asking $25 per person. Our English speaking guide took us slowly up the canal stopping to point out flowers, vegetation, and wildlife. We saw two-toed sloths, egrets, white and blue herons, nesting yellow breast birds, monkeys and sleeping bats. We missed the Alligators though, but did catch sight of the colorful "Banana Train" crossing the canal on an overhead tressle.

We did see the luxurious "Mawamba" boats that the ship's tour uses - We were happy to be along, quiet and really close to nature, rather than sharing a tour with 40 others and a guide with a microphone. The ship charges $69 per person and includes a tropical fruit buffet.

Our cab driver then dropped us off at Playa Bonita, approximately 3 miles from the ship. You could feel the energy here - they were prepared for a large crowd - a two-piece combo was playing in the restaurant overlooking the beach. We had rum and cokes for $3 each and the not to be missed wood fired lobster with fries, tomato and cole slaw for $15 per person - so sweet and fresh, basted with butter, lemon, garlic and cilantro sauces.

Playa Bonita is a public beach with three restaurants - quite rustic - there are no palapas, lounge chairs or umbrella rental. A few trees provide shade. the sand is brown and there are young boys offering to keep an eye on your belongings or pestering you to have your picture taken with a two-toed sloth. A few polite "no thank you" and they'll be off to pester newly arriving guests to make a few tips.

It certainly isn't the beach that you dream of but knowing its limitations ahead of time - you can spend a fun afternoon. The water is calm once you pass the small breakers along the shore and the water is very warm. No evidence of showers but you'll dry off quickly before returning to the ship. This is the closest beach to the port and your driver will return to pick you up at a mutually agreeable time.