Two Weeks in Turkey in 10 Days or Less

We arrived in Turkey after a fantastic flight on Turkish Air. The pillows and blankets were plentiful, the food was hot and delicious, and, most importantly, the stewardesses were friendly and happy to serve. I have traveled on a number of foreign and domestic carriers and suggest that you, if your schedule and budget permits, fly a foreign carrier. Unlike American carriers, foreign airlines are usually government-subsidized, which means they haven't had to cut costs by doing away with creature comforts.

Our cab ride from the airport was fast and loose. Driving in Istanbul appears to be a bit of a competitive sport. However, our trip down Istikal Kennedy (that's right, after JFK) was enough of a diversion from our white-knuckle ride. A look to the left reveled millennia-old city walls, built by the Emperor Constantine. A look to the right showed oil tankers carting in fuel from Russia and elsewhere. In Istanbul, East meets West and ancient history meets modern civilization.

Our cabbie dropped us off several blocks from our destination. The road was closed, as the center of the Sultanahmet district had been cordoned off for a Formula One race, with the course wrapping primarily around the Hippodrome, the very same course where there were once chariot races! We wandered around the district for about 40 minutes, sticking out like carnival marks with our giant green-and-blue backpacks. John and I were approached by several young men offering maps, directions, and accommodations, but we recognized this as a ploy to earn a commission from a local business owner (see my tips/suggestions), thanked them politely, and soldiered on, pretending to know our way. After 40 sweaty minutes, we found our hotel, collapsed on our beds, and fell asleep to the winding roar of race cars outside our window.

During our time in Istanbul, we visited the Hagia Sofia, Blue Mosque, Grand Bazaar, and Topkapi Palace, all top desinations on the tourist circuit. However, at the suggestion of a local, we spent a couple of relaxing nights in and around Taksim Square, where we wandered over cobblestone streets popping in and out of shops, cafes, and bars.

During our excursions in Asiatic Turkey, we saw the ruins at Ephesus and the party town of Bodrum, where there are plenty of sunburned cruise-ship tourists, but not a lot of backpacking Americans.

Quick Tips:

When we arrived in Istanbul, we were not prepared for the hard sell of many of the local vendors and their agents. From the moment we stepped out of our cab ,we were trailed by men offering us shoeshines, directions, maps, and accommodations. A lot of these men on the street get commissions for referring you to local businesses, and those kickbacks get passed onto you via higher prices. So it's best to get recommendations from your hotel concierge.

Most sites within Sultanahmet are pretty eye-catching mosques and palaces have that quality. One site we almost overlooked, but are glad we didn't, was the Basilica Cistern, an ancient Byzantine cistern that is still filled with water. It's artfully flooded with light to show off 366 columns and giant koi fish swimming below. It's a short pre-dinner diversion and a good place to escape the hot sun.

We used the Lonely Planet Turkey guide and the DK Eyewitness guide to Istanbul. But we also found a lot of useful information at www.turkeytravelplanner.com.

Best Way To Get Around:

In Istanbul, the tram is the cheapest, easiest way to get around. It's pretty uncomplicated—just buy a jet on at the booth and hop on—but kind of limited. Taxis will also take you where you need to go, but they can be pricey.

We only had 10 days to cover a lot of ground on a tight budget. Instead of flying from Istanbul to other parts of the country, we booked overnight tickets on one of Turkey's luxury bus lines, Varan. (You can book tickets online at www.varan.com.tr, but the site is entirely in Turkish, so navigating it takes some effort.) I was a little bit worried at first. After all, 12 hours on a Greyhound was not what I call a vacation. But it turned out to be a great way to get around and save money on hotels. Not only are these buses seriously lush—all leather seats, plenty of leg room, and a bow-tied attendant who serves drinks and snacks—but it's a very authentic way to travel. We were the only tourists on the bus, and we made friends easily.

One important note: If your travelling companion is of the opposite sex, they may not allow you to book your seats together, at least not online. If you get to the ticket office early, you can explain your situation and they may be able to accommodate you.

We were travelling on a budget, but decided to splurge on this top-end hotel at the end of our trip. The Yesil Ev, or Green House, is housed in an 18th-century Ottoman mansion with a lush garden and green-house enclosed dining area in back. We arrived after an exhausting 12 hour, overnight bus ride from Bodrum. We were tired, dirty and not scheduled to check-in for a couple of hours. Housekeeping was still busy cleaning our reserved room, but a very generous concierge checked us into a ground floor suite with a king-sized brass bed, mahogany furniture, and antique decorations. I felt like I had stepped right into an Agatha Christie novel! The accompanying bathroom was large and comforting with plush bath towels and robes, and fantastic water pressure. I should note that this shower, unlike many showers in the Turkish hotels where we stayed, was glass encased. (Some showers are small and outfitted only with a plastic curtain and a cheap hand-held nozzle. They also have only a small lip to keep water contained, leading to flooding.) Breakfast was also fantastic, with a great spread of fresh fruits, cereals, breads, and eggs.

We had the pleasure of staying at a number of hotels during our time in Istanbul. The Sari Konak was among our favorites. It is a small hotel with a boutique feel. Our room was small but attractively decorated with pristine white walls and bedding. The bed was clean and comfortable and the fully tiled bathroom was a luxury, complete with a heated towel rack and great water pressure in the glass-enclosed shower. The staff was very friendly as well. The bartender on the rooftop deck was eager to practice his English and correct our broken Turkish, as well as to provide nightlife recommendations that turned out quite well.

Breakfast was fantastic, a spread of fresh fruits, cheeses, and cereals, as well as hard-boiled eggs and some pastries. The owner, a charming man who appeared to be in his 60s, circulated among the guests during this complimentary meal, asking about their stay and pointing out the hotel's historical context.

The Kiwi Pension is set back a few blocks from the Selcuk Otogar on a quiet residential street. We had chosen the place because it promised a free ride to Ephesus, though it depends on your definition of the word. The young clerk was a chatty young man by the name of Muslim, who gabbed effusively while he "walked us to the car." What he didn't tell us, however, was that before giving us our ride to the ruins, we'd have to sit through a 40 minute sales pitch at the pension owners' rug shop. Being one of few visitors to Turkey not interested in a carpet, our polite disinterest did not sit well and we had to endure several minutes of awkward silence before piping up that we would like our ride, as promised. Our room was clean, if spartan—a hard bed covered with a sheet and a private bathroom. But the common area was a little grungy, with a stained couch and broken telephone and TV. And while laundry service was available, it was a bit expensive. We chose to hand wash our clothes in the shower instead.