Apple Country in the Snow

Every year my husband and I look for interesting little trips to celebrate our birthdays. This year I needed something simple and close enough to Los Angeles for an overnight trip. Julian, CA, seemed to fit the bill. I had previously visited Julian in the fall, when the apples for which it is famous are being harvested and the aroma of freshly baked apple pie greets you before the "Entering City Limits" sign does. But this was March, and we were still in the tail end of our winter, so I didn't know what we would experience at this historic mountain town.

Knowing that accommodations are at a premium, I made reservations at the Julian "Gold Rush" Hotel, which is run like a bed-and-breakfast. The day before, the weather changed to intermittent showers, so I called ahead and was told to carry chains, as snow was in the forecast. Julian is at a 4,000-foot elevation.

The next morning, we set out on the inland route, Highway 15, through the lush green of the Temecula Valley. In Escondido, we headed east on Highway 78 and began the gentle climb through the foothills. The rolling hills are beautiful, and you can easily imagine Pancho Villa and his followers cresting the ridges. We passed through historic Ramona, CA, where they have the Annual Ramona Pageant. As elevation increased, we could see little patches of snow, but the roads were clear all the way to the outskirts of Julian. Here there was more snow, but it was still navigable. We had our chains but never had to put them on.

We were one of the first to check in and had our pick of the rooms. Once settled, we headed out for a walk. The air was brisk and snow threatened. We stopped at the Boar's Head Saloon and were warmed by the fire with a draft brew.

By dinnertime, the snow was falling and many of the stores and restaurants were closed, so we went to dinner across the street at Romano's. The evening was spent reading in the lobby in front of the potbelly stove.

Next morning we awoke to a foot of snow and a delicious full breakfast. We walked through the winter wonderland to Mom's Pies to buy a couple to take home. After shoveling out the car, the roads were clear enough for us to head home. A successful trip!

Quick Tips:

Be sure to call ahead for reservations. Even with the inclement weather, the Julian Hotel was filled to capacity and the doorbell rang all evening with people looking for a place to stay.

Do call the day before for any information regarding road conditions. The hotels have up-to-the-minute information regarding closures etc.

Dress comfortably. This is an old gold mining town, and Levis and flannel shirts are the code of dress.

Do not leave without a freshly baked pie.

Best Way To Get Around:

The town of Julian is very self-contained, and you can walk to all the little shops and restaurants. However, if you want to participate in any of the nearby outdoor activities, you will need your car. There is no public transportation that I am aware of.

The Julian Hotel is perfectly located in the heart of historic Julian. It has two floors of rooms as well as a honeymoon cottage. Rooms range in price depending on the amenities. It does not have TV, nor Internet access. The idea is to relax and settle into this historic mountain town experience.

There is a simple tea offered in the afternoon, after everyone has checked in and a full breakfast in the morning. If you tell the proprietors of any dietary restrictions they will accommodate you. The parlor has lovely window seats looking out over the main street and the lobby has a pot-belly stove. Both rooms are equipped with books, cards, games, and puzzles.

The rooms are not large but are nicely decorated, clean, and comfortable. Many of the guests were returnees and the hotel gives you a discount on return visits. They also offer AAA and AARP discounts.

Romano's is a family owned and operated restaurant. It is small, with two dining rooms. The back room also has a small bar. There is also a counter where you can order food to go, which many people were doing. There is a glorious fire place, which kept the room well heated with snow falling outside. Tables are close so you smile often to your neighbors! We had a lovely meal. We had a nice pasta fagioli soup that warmed us nicely. We opted for their special entrees. I had their pork juliana, and my husband was very happy with his brasiole in a nice red sauce. We had a bottle of red wine that was delicious and very reasonable.

We would return for the food, but more importantly for the atmosphere and service. Everyone is treated like a personal friend and even though it was crowded and busy, the waitresses were personable and kept inquiring about our meal. Even though we did not have children with us, it is friendly toward children and we saw families at the other tables.

While this is a place to buy delicious apple (and other types) of pies, it also is a cafe that serves soup and sandwiches. We went to buy pies before heading for home. If you ask anyone in Julian where to get the best pies, you will get a different answer from each person. We opted for Mom's, as it was the most established and we could see the bakers hard at work through the glass window. We were not disappointed!

The Boar's Head Saloon is located in the back of the Rongbranch Restaurant. You can enter either by walking through the restaurant or through a back door off the small parking area. We stopped in for a draft beer and to get warmed up by their roaring fireplace. It did not feel like a touristy place... many locals came in, were greeted by name, and their drink of choice known by the bartender who is a transplant from Boston by way of San Diego. It was cosy and it had an actual... yes... Boar's Head mounted on the wall.

I don't know where else to place this tip, but on the way home from Julian, CA, in the flat land at the base of the mountains, we passed acreage that had what looked like long bunker buildings. It was Pine Hill Egg Ranch, just outside of Ramona, CA, on Highway 78. There was a store off the road, and we stopped and purchased the most wonderful, fresh jumbo eggs for a very reasonable price. The next morning we enjoyed the fresh eggs for breakfast, and as I broke each one into the pan and saw the twin yolks, I couldn't help but think of the two little twin chicks that might have been. Ah, well, the food chain continues.