1 Week Romantic Getaway

A March 2006 trip to Bruges by Monique Witsel

TranquilMore Photos

The historic city center was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.

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Places of Interest
It is difficult to sum up the magic of Bruges in just a few words.
The city's impressive cultural and artistic heritage is famed throughout the world, and has turned Bruges into one of Europe's major tourist destinations.

The medieval streets, winding canals, and green ramparts charm, add to the romantic atmosphere of this city. Bruge is keen to ensure its cultural future and has invested heavily in major restoration projects, contemporary architecture, and modern infrastructure. Various cultural institutions organise numerous events in the field of dance, theatre, music, visual arts, etc.

In order to reduce traffic in the city centre, the mobility plan, introduced a couple of years ago, has been strongly developed. So be prepared for all the cyclists. Bruges is a bubbling city for young and old alike, a friendly city which is delighted to give you a warm welcome.

Bruges offers various museums and places of interest such as the "Groeninge Museum", displaying Dutch and Belgian paintings, the "Arenthshuis", an 18th century mansion, located at the entrance to a picturesque garden, the "Hospitaalmuseum Saint John's Hospital", spans eight centuries. During this period, nuns and monks received and took care of pilgrims, travellers, and the ill. In the medieval wards, and in the church, visitors can learn more about the rich history. In the "Bruggemuseum Gruuthuse", visitors will be welcomed like a medieval nobleman. The mansion contains a wide variety of objects.

My list goes on and on, therefore I advise you head over to the tourist guide office, to plan your visit successfully. I have posted some of my favorite spots to visit under my Summary, "Bruges, things to see".

Round trip boat tours on the picturesque city canals are also available. You will discover Bruges from quite a different and surprising point of view. The cost per person usually carries €5.70 (umbrellas included). Groups are taken into consideration and offered lower prices.

If you are a beer lover you will enjoy the various family breweries. "De Halve Maan" Walplein 26, has been in use since 1856.
That goes for the chocolate lover as well, visit the "Choco Story" (private museum), Wijnzakstraat 2, (city center).

Quick Tips:

Tourist information is available under: www.brugge.be

Maps are located throughout the city, posted behind glass showing where you are now. So there's no chance of getting lost.

Bikes can be rented at the Railway Station for €6.50 half day, €9.50 full day (per person). The best price offer can be found at "De Ketting", located on Gentpoortstraat 23 (tel.050/34 41 96), their price carried for a full day is €5.00.

There are also various offers for your museums visits, such as the "Combined ticket", which offers you 5 random visits to museums at 15.00 euro, or for the same price, 3 museums + bicycle + drink.(For sale at all municiple museums and at In&Uit Brugge Concert hall)

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking is the best way to discover Bruges. The city is rather small, you can easily walk across it in half an hour.

There are "walking tours" available, such as Bruges, City of Monuments = 5km, Tranquil Bruges = 3,7km, Bruges and Europe = 4,2km, Surprising Bruges = 4km.

It is strongly advised that you park your vehicle in one of the underground or peripheral car parks that are all well served by public transport. For merely €1, the bus line will take you to your place of destination. If you do decide to come by car, be prepared for the high parking costs. Some Hotel parking facilities carry up to €20 per day!! So inform yourself before making that final decision. We traveled by train.

At "In&Uit Brugge", cyclists can obtain cycling maps that will allow you to explore Bruges and its surrounding area in a safe and enjoyable way.

Also available are guided tours by horse-drawn cab. For this, one has to dig a bit deep in their pocket, the cost carries €30.00 per person. Also available for a city tour are the comfortable mini coaches run by Sightseeing Line, with comments provided in the language of your choice (individual headphones), tour last for 50 minutes, cost of €11.50 per Adult (charges for children vary).

Ryad Moroccan RestaurantBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Ryad Morrocan Restaurant"

Ryad

On our last day we just happened up on this restaurant during our long walk to visit the Windmills (Sint-Janshuysmolen) at the edge of town.

Once entering through the glass door you are transported to another land, Morocco to be exact. The decor is suitable to the theme, adding to the enchanting and romantic atmosphere.

The restaurant is set up on two stages. The upstairs section is set up with the traditional Moroccan seating, where one can enjoy a tea and smoke a "Chicha"(traditional water pipe).

After enjoying our delicious meals of Couscous and Tagine (both Vegetarian), we enjoyed a cup of nouss nouss and took in the sweet aroma of the Chicha. A great experience not to be passed up!

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Monique Witsel on March 29, 2006

Ryad Moroccan Restaurant
Hoogstraat 32 Bruges, Belgium
+32 (0) 50 331 355

Cafe Brasserie CraenenburgBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Cafe - Brasserie Craenenburg"

Craenenburg
On the corner of the Market Square in Bruges, you will find "House Craenenburg". The name originated from its inhabitants of 1305.
During 1905 Craenenburg became the local pub for the Bruges smokers' club. Craenenburg was renovated in 1956 with its current distinctive frontage.
The main room has been decorated in a typical Flemish style, including the wooden entrance porch, wooden beams on the ceiling, copper light fittings, a lovely freeze with inset tiling, and wooden benches along the walls.
The bar is superbly sculptured and the windows are set in lead with features reflecting the various brewing processes and skills.
Since 1966 the business Craenenburg is run by the family Boedt, this being the third generation to be in charge. You will receive a welcomed feeling from the Staff.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Monique Witsel on March 29, 2006

Cafe Brasserie Craenenburg
Markt 16 Bruges, Belgium

A fine setting accompanied with a delicious dinning experience, at good prices. The Restaurant is located directly on the Market Street and catches one eye immediately due to the rather surprising display of small thin screened televisions perching through the front windows.

The Restaurant is split in to two sections, including a second stage. The orange room, as I call it, has a large screen TV hanging, which was showing at that time the latest mode from around the world. But I am certain that changes during popular Sport Events. The more relaxed atmosphere is in the adjoining room, (where there is no TV), presenting itself in a romantic light with fire place, decorated in a classical style, deep reds, wooden beams and candle light. The Staff is very attentive and friendly; willing to answer any questions you may have concerning Bruges itself (we tested them). We choose to eat a pot of mussels with a white wine brew accompanied with one of their specialty white wines from the region. As we would say in Swiss "Lecker", a simple form of saying "delicious".

A TIP: It seems to be a tradition in most restaurants in Bruges, that when they offer you some bread to begin with, this also ends up being charged to your bill, which we discovered on our first evening out.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Monique Witsel on March 29, 2006

De Vier Winden (De Sneeuwberg)
Markt 9 (Halletoren) Bruges, Belgium
+32 050 33 1933

Hof van Rembrandt

In the heart of Brugge, you find the court of Rembrandt. This café/Pub, with its good reputation and large terrace, is a valued hot spot of Brugge. During the summer it is delicious to stay on the terrace, where about 90 people can sit and a spot in the sun is guaranteed. On cold days this terrace is also heated. But also in the winter the court of Rembrandt holds a trump card, with its sociable bar, and relaxed indoor atmosphere. The court of Rembrandt also offers various bottled and on draft beers.

You may choose from a wide variety, such as some of their local beers: the renowned Bruges Tripel, among others: Jupiler, Hoegaarden, Duchesse, Leffe in the blonde and dark versions, the Koninck, and of coarse, the beer of the month. Enjoy a small snack along with one or more of their great beers.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Monique Witsel on March 29, 2006

HetHof van Rembrandt
Eiermarkt 10 Bruges, Belgium
+32 050 33 7450

Saint Amour
Just a few steps down and you are transported in to Bruges underworld where cellars and vaults form a world apart. This romantic restaurant is full of mysteries and secrets. Here you can experience an incredible culinary adventure, directed by the selfsame young man who won the Best Flemish Cook award, whose staff presents you with a creative and refined cuisine.  Vegetarian dishes included.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Monique Witsel on March 29, 2006

Saint-Amour ('t Voermanshuys)
Oude Burg 14 Bruges, Belgium
+32 050 33 71 72

Belfry TowerBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "The Belfry of Bruges"

The Belfry
In the ancient town of Bruges,
In the quaint old Flemish city,
As the evening shades descended,
Low and loud and sweetly blended,
Low at times and loud at times,
And changing like a poet's rhymes,
Rang the beautiful wild chimes
From the Belfry in the market
Of the ancient town of Bruges

--Taken from "The Belfry of Bruges Carillon," written by the popular 19th-century American poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow.

The 83m-high Belfry tower and the Cloth Hall, dating back from 1240, still dominate the Market Square of today.

Not only did it function as seat of government and marketplace for sale of cloth (hence the name "cloth hall"), it symbolized the economic, political, and social bases of the city. The Belfry fire of 1280 destroyed the first tower, yet served as a portent of developing the impending change of the city.

The Belfry tower was the place where the important documents of the city were preserved. At the same time, such towers were used as watchtowers. Inside hung bells, each bell having a distinct sound and function (e.g. bells for danger, bells for important announcements, bells to indicate the time, etc.).

What many people do not know, since it is practically not visible to the eye, is that the tower leans, by an exact measurement of 83 cm (southerly). The lower floor began sagging, which may have been brought on by the filling of the Reie (a canal) on the south side of the building. To compensate for this, the above floor was built leaning, and as the top was being constructed (from 1482-1486), it too was built leaning but in the opposite direction, causing a zigzag affect. The Wooden Spire, which once decorated the top of the tower, burnt for a second time in 1741 and was therefore never reconstructed.

Nowadays, the Belfry tower charms the visitor with the lovely music of a "carillion," which consists of 47 bells with a combined weight of 27 tons.

For an individual entrance fee of 5 euro, it is possible to reach the top of the tower by climbing the 366 steps to the belfry (unfortunately, there is no lift). From there out one can enjoy the spectacular overview of Bruges itself, not to mention the up-close view of the magnificent bells system.

Learn about how they give out their beautiful tones.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Monique Witsel on March 29, 2006

Belfry Tower
Markt Square Bruges, Belgium

Silence Please

Bruges is the Capital of the West Flanders province, connected by canals with Zeebrugge (North Sea). It is also a Rail Junction for commercial, Industrial use (including: Lace, Textiles, Ships, Industrial Glass), and of coarse for the use of tourists.

Bruges was founded on an Inlet of the North Sea in the 9th century and turned in to a Center of Trade with England in the 11th century. It flourished as a major "Entrepôt" port, and was one of the chief wool processing centers of Flanders, turning Bruges in to one of the major commercial hubs of Europe during the 14th century.

The City held extensive political privileges and played a major part in the chronic struggle between England, France, and the Counts of Flanders.

Philip IV of France annexed Flanders in 1301. Bruges led the rebellion against him. The French garrison was massacred in 1302. Shortly afterwards the "Citizens-Army" of Bruges was led to Victory in the Battle of the Spurs.

As a result of foreign competition, the wool Industry in Bruges took a great decline in the 15th century. The City lost its access to the North Sea and its outer ports by 1490, because the inlet Brudges was located on, silted up completely.

By the 1500, Antwerp replaced Bruges as chief Entrepôt of north Europe. With the start of extensive repairs to its ports, the industrial and commercial revival of Bruges began once again in 1895.

During World War I and II, Bruges was occupied by the Germans. A tag in history, known as "The Raid on Zeebrugge" (in 1918) planned to neutralise the key Belgian Ports of Zeebrugge and Ostend, both used by the German Navy as a base for submarines and light shipping.

Back in the 14th and 15th century, Bruges was home to many masters of Flemish Art such as Jan van Eyck and Gerard David whose work is represented in the Churches, Museums of the City, and other public buildings. Six authentic masterpieces created by Hans Memling can be seen in the Hospital of St. John (built in the 13th and 14th century), Mariastraat 38, which adjoins the Cornelius Chapel. Just across the street in the Church of Our Lady (constructed between the 13th-15th Century), and recently restored, one can visit the tombs of Charles the Bold and Mary of Burgundy. Michelangelo's white marble Madonna with Child is also displayed there.

The Basilica of the Holy Blood (1139 to 1149), Burg 15, was a major site for pilgrimage. A most beautiful and breathtaking double chapel. On ground level, St. Basil's Chapel is in Roman style. The first floor chapel, converted into neo-Gothic style in the 19th century, contains the famous relic of the Holy Blood.

Sint-Janshuysmolen, the so called stilt windmill (1770), located at the edge of town along the Kruisveststraat was in use up to 1914. After some restoration work, it is once again active since 1964. During the summer season, wind providing, the vanes turn at full speed. The miller will gladly show you around.

The Royal City Theater is also a visit worth, located on Vlamingstraat 29. The theater was built in 1869 and is one of the best preserved theater buildings in Europe, having been recently restored to its former glory. The elegant neo-Renaissance facade conceals a majestic auditorium and foyer in eclectic style. The historic setting is regularly used as a platform for contemporary dance, theatre, and concerts.

Discovering Bruges on foot should also include a visit through Jeruzalemstraat, Jerusalem Church located on Peperstraat 3. Built in the 15th century according to the plans of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. Worth seeing are the precious stained-glass windows and mausoleums of the church founders (Anselmus Adornes and his spouse). Directly next-door is the Kantcentrum.

Just a short walk away is the Jan van Eyckplein Old Toll House, on Jan van Eyckplain 2, built in 1477. This recently restored building was levied on the goods brought in by ship from the outer ports of Bruges. It is now a provincial information office. In the same square, you can admire the statue of Jan van Eyck, the famous 15th-century Flemish painter. Close by, Woensdagmerkt (statue of Hans Memling) and Oosterlingenplain where the German Hanseatic League (consisted of an alliance of trading cities maintaining a Monopoly) had its headquarters.

Near the Railway Station, walking along Wijngaardstraat / Wijngaardplein you will come to Beguinage, the Princely Beguine of the Vineyard was founded in 1245 by Margaretha of Constantinopel, the Countess of Flanders. Since 1937, Sisters of the religious St. Benedict Order have taken the place of the former beguines, and it is now a monastery. Yes, I was asking myself as well what is a Beguinage and after doing some research, asking a lot of questions: It seems that during the 13th-century people were looking for a new, purer, more mystical form of religion, as a reaction to the growing materialism. Numerous movements came about which were followed by men and women, resulting in the creation of several religious orders. The Churches Official Leaders did not like these new orders, often condemning and forbidding them. However, in the low countries, the female followers of the mystical movement were tolerated in the form of the Beguin. They lived in secluded parts of the city in Beguinages, and this way the religious-authorities could keep and eye on them, control them.

The women there were considered to be nuns, but did not make the same vows. Beguines took the vows of obedience and chastity, but not the vow of poverty. There also were no restrictions to the vows. They could at all times break their vows and leave the community. A Beguine, as described in the dictionary, is a member of any several lay sisterhoods founded in the Netherlands in the 13th century.

Tip: when walking through this area take notice, and abide by, the silence signs posted around the buildings.

Via the street called Minnewater you reach the park carrying the same name, otherwise known as Lake of Love, today a romantic spot, used to be a dock for so called barges which operated a regular transport service between Bruges and Ghent. Close to the bridge spanning over the Lake of Love you see the Poertoren, a former ammunition dump (1398).

Also a most interesting site to see and visit, are the miniature like houses called; Almshouses, these are communal houses which were built by the guilds for their members and their widows or as a deed of charity by wealthy citizens for the poor and elderly. The oldest houses date back to the 14th century, often built around a communal garden with a small chapel and water well. These complexes have been owned by the City since the French Revolution. Most have been restored and modernised and are still inhabited by the elderly. Most of the inner gardens are open to the public. Some beautiful examples: Almshouse De Vos (Noordstraat), De Pelikaan (Groene Rei), Alsmhouse Zorghe and Schippers (Stijn Streuvelstraat), the Rooms Couvent (Katelijnestraat).

Certainly I was not able to cover all the possibilities to be discovered in Bruges, but during our weeks stay we had a marvelous time, all the way around. You dont have to follow in anyone's footsteps but your own, so enjoy discovering!

About the Writer

Monique Witsel
Monique Witsel
Switzerland, Switzerland

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