Myanmar - Come in Rangoon, Come in! - IgoUgo Yangon Journal

Myanmar - Come in Rangoon, Come in!

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Overview

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The City of Yangon, Myanmar’s main gateway and former capital, was once known as the "Queen of Cities" Or "The Garden City of the East". Singapore, in fact, was designed after studying Yangon’s lay-out. Similar to most Southeast Asian cities, it contains incredible contrasts: tropical trees, shady parks and beautiful lakes, tall office buildings, older run-down commercial buildings from colonial times and extensive slums.The city was founded by King Alaungpaya on the site of a small settlement called Dagon when he conquered Lower Burma in 1755. The name Yangon means "End of Strife." It covers 400 sq km with a population of five million. We entered and left Myanmar through Yango...Read More

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Traders Hotel

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Hotel | "Traders' Hotel"

Yangon Overview Photo - Traders Hotel, Yangon, Myanmar

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First, I admit I am a long-time, enthusiastic, admirer of the Kwok family’s Shangri La Group of hotels. From my first stay at The Rasa Sayang in Penang Malaysia, through stays in many countries at Shangri La flagship hotels, at their business class Traders Hotels and at their original resort properties in Malaysia; I have almost never been disappointed. The Traders Hotel, Yangon was no exception. Most sites, I looked at, rated this property as four star. I give it five stars. Even though we were traveling on a pre-paid tour, we received the same treatment we would have if we were paying the rack rate. On check-in, which was late in the evening, we were seated in the lobby bar, given a welc...Read More

First, I admit I am a long-time, enthusiastic, admirer of the Kwok family’s Shangri La Group of hotels. From my first stay at The Rasa Sayang in Penang Malaysia, through stays in many countries at Shangri La flagship hotels, at their business class Traders Hotels and at their original resort properties in Malaysia; I have almost never been disappointed. The Traders Hotel, Yangon was no exception.

Most sites, I looked at, rated this property as four star. I give it five stars. Even though we were traveling on a pre-paid tour, we received the same treatment we would have if we were paying the rack rate. On check-in, which was late in the evening, we were seated in the lobby bar, given a welcome drink and checked in by a customer services officer who then personally escorted us to our room. In the morning when we checked out at 4:30am, long before the coffee shop opened, we were not only given cups of freshly brewed coffee, but also a boxed meal to eat in the car or on the plane.

When we returned 9 days later, we were remembered and received the same excellent treatment. You can see the quality of the rooms on their website as well as take a virtual tour of other facilities. The lobby in particular is exquisite. The complimentary breakfast in the Traders Café was excellent, albeit a bit crowded. We had a late supper in the lobby lounge one evening and it was reasonably priced and delicious.

The hotel is located close to Yangon’s center. The Sule Pagoda is a 3-minute walk, the Bogyoke/Scott Market is right around the corner and Chinatown, with its merchandise and food stalls, is less than 5 minutes away. We also walked to the National Museum, about 2km. I’m sure we could have discovered even more interesting sights near the hotel but we were quite worn out after 10 days of touring.

In addition to the Café and the Lobby Lounge, Traders has a Japanese restaurant, a Cantonese dining room, a bar and restaurant that serves mostly western cuisine, a delicatessen/pastry shop for snacks and soft drinks, and 24-hour room service.

It has usual amenities you would expect in a four- or five-star hotel: a business center and a shopping arcade. It also has non-smoking rooms, an on-site clinic, and a tour desk if you are winging it.

My wife, Pam, reported that the Health Club was as complete as any she has visited. This may be the result of having a residence wing in the complex. It contains a fitness center, has an outdoor and an indoor children’s pool, the complete spa contains a sauna, a steam room, a Jacuzzi, and all the usual services. There’s also a billiards room and ping pong tables. I had a hard time getting her out of the place to do some sightseeing.

Summary: it’s a great hotel. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on May 17, 2006

Traders Hotel
223 Sule Pagoda Road
Yangon, Myanmar
95 1 242828

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Shwedagon Pagoda

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Attraction | "Shwedagon Paya Complex"

Shwedagon, Main Zedi Photo - Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

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This religious site is to the people of Myanmar what Mecca is to the Muslims, or St. Peter’s Basilica to Roman Catholics. Most Burmese Buddhists hope to see this shrine at least once in their lifetime. Its history, and the history of Yangon—and perhaps all of Myanmar—are inextricably intertwined. Yangon’s original name was Dagon.It is also almost impossible to separate myth from fact when looking at the history of the Shwedagon Pagoda. It’s been at the same site for over 700 years, perhaps longer. Its own website claims 2,500 years. The somewhat mythical story of its founding involves two Bamar merchants in India whose oxen refused to move any farther for unknown reasons. They decided ...Read More

This religious site is to the people of Myanmar what Mecca is to the Muslims, or St. Peter’s Basilica to Roman Catholics. Most Burmese Buddhists hope to see this shrine at least once in their lifetime. Its history, and the history of Yangon—and perhaps all of Myanmar—are inextricably intertwined. Yangon’s original name was Dagon.

It is also almost impossible to separate myth from fact when looking at the history of the Shwedagon Pagoda. It’s been at the same site for over 700 years, perhaps longer. Its own website claims 2,500 years.

The somewhat mythical story of its founding involves two Bamar merchants in India whose oxen refused to move any farther for unknown reasons. They decided to rest under the shade of a nearby bo tree where they discovered the Buddha meditating. As they rested, the Buddha shared his wisdom and gave them eight hairs which they put in a golden box and took back to Burma. On their return they repeated what they had learned to the King, who immediately became a Buddhist and decided to build a great pagoda to house the hairs. In a dream Thangya Nin, the King of the Nats (Burmese ancient gods), showed him the hill on which to enshrine the hairs.

When the shrine was finished and the hairs transferred to a new box, miracles occurred throughout the kingdom as the box was put in its zedi (bell-shaped shrine), where it remains to this day.

Since its beginning, the Shwedagon has been continually enhanced by royalty, the wealthy, pilgrims, and regular visitors, making donations and hoping to earn merit in the process. It is constantly being refurbished. Even the generals running Myanmar don’t dare mess with Shwedagon, and try to appear to be among its most pious adherents and protectors.

The site’s statistics are overwhelming: Over nine tons of gold, hundreds of square feet of gold leaf, thousands of diamonds, and other precious gems. The perimeter of the base of the Main Zedi is 1,420 feet, and it rises 326 feet above the platform. The platform is built on a 128 foot hill, which makes the pagoda visible from almost anywhere in the city. The base is surrounded by 64 small pagodas, with four larger ones in the center of each side. Elsewhere in the complex, there are 72 shrines—not all of which honor the Buddha. There are shrines to Nats, to historical and/or mythical people, and even to holy animals. Buddhism is not an exclusive religion, so much as a way to attain nirvana.

Pam and I visited in the evening and watched the sunset from the platform. This is a good time to visit because it is not so crowded, and we could watch the place light up as night fell. Believers were praying and making offerings at every shrine. It was a bit overwhelming.

In summary: this place should not be missed. I would be very surprised if you are not moved by the experience. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on May 21, 2006

Shwedagon Pagoda
Shwedagon Pagoda Road
Yangon, Myanmar

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Chaukhtatgyi Pagoda

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Attraction

The Full Length Reclining Buddha Photo - Chaukhtatgyi Pagoda,

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This is one of the largest reclining Buddhas I’ve ever seen and is evidently the largest in Myanmar. It can’t be very much smaller than the one in Bangkok— reputed to be the largest reclining Buddha in the world. The temple itself is little more than an open metal shed—hardly an elegant home for the statue. It’s located near downtown and also near the Shwedagon Complex, so it is easy to get to on any tour of Yangon. The Buddha image is 72m long. The head is about 30 feet high. Originally built in 1907, it had suffered damage due to climate and earthquakes over time so in 1957 it was basically demolished and then rebuilt in this structure next to the Ashay Tawya monastery. It was completed in...Read More

This is one of the largest reclining Buddhas I’ve ever seen and is evidently the largest in Myanmar. It can’t be very much smaller than the one in Bangkok— reputed to be the largest reclining Buddha in the world. The temple itself is little more than an open metal shed—hardly an elegant home for the statue.

It’s located near downtown and also near the Shwedagon Complex, so it is easy to get to on any tour of Yangon. The Buddha image is 72m long. The head is about 30 feet high. Originally built in 1907, it had suffered damage due to climate and earthquakes over time so in 1957 it was basically demolished and then rebuilt in this structure next to the Ashay Tawya monastery. It was completed in 1966. Given the site it's hard to believe that this incarnation is 40 years old. The monks must take good care of it.

I also noticed many, many names and pictures hanging everywhere. Most of the names were Chinese. Nomo, our guide, told us that many local and overseas Chinese contribute to the upkeep of the image thereby earning merit. She wasn’t sure why this particular temple was of interest to the Chinese and I also couldn’t find any information as to why. I suspect that, since it’s not too far from Chinatown, it became a favorite place for the Chinese Community rather than Shwedagon.

One of the unique aspects of this image is the mosaic on the sole of its feet representing the 108 special characteristics of the Buddha. The area around the feet is divided into astrological signs tied to the 8 days of the week (Wednesday is divided into two days, morning and afternoon). Buddha was born Wednesday morning so his sign is the tusk-less elephant which can be found in the Northwest corner of the enclosure.

Inside the building, as is usual in Myanmar, people are praying and making offerings as part of their daily lives. Outside, there is a bustling market selling offerings and incense as well as the usual souvenirs. There are also the usual collection of fortune-tellers and diviners to help people determine what’s in store for them in the future. The nearby monastery is open to visitors for a small fee. Nomo neglected to tell us that so we missed an opportunity to get a sense of how the monks live.

The Buddha Image itself is reason enough to visit this Paya. Add the monastery and the other activities and it is certainly worth spending time here. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on May 22, 2006

Chaukhtatgyi Pagoda
Shwegondaing Lan
Yangon, Myanmar

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National Museum

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Attraction

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As I’ve stated in other reviews, I’m a museum nut as is Pam, my wife. So, factor that in as you read this review.The museum is housed in a very impressive, specially constructed, five story building that was completed in 1996. The biggest problem is that the museum is not very well organized with unrelated exhibits placed next to one another. I suspect this is caused by the fact that they organized the museum thematically rather than chronologically. There is no printed guide available. There is minimal signage in English and what there is assumes that the viewer knows much about Myanmar’s history. There are a couple websites I wish I had visited prior to going to the museum: ...Read More

As I’ve stated in other reviews, I’m a museum nut as is Pam, my wife. So, factor that in as you read this review.

The museum is housed in a very impressive, specially constructed, five story building that was completed in 1996. The biggest problem is that the museum is not very well organized with unrelated exhibits placed next to one another. I suspect this is caused by the fact that they organized the museum thematically rather than chronologically. There is no printed guide available. There is minimal signage in English and what there is assumes that the viewer knows much about Myanmar’s history.

There are a couple websites I wish I had visited prior to going to the museum: The
Ministry of Culture National Museum website which provides details about all the showrooms but ironically doesn’t tell you what floor they are on. The other is the Myanmars.net
site which provides good location information and has some excellent photos. Unfortunately, the authorities do not allow picture taking and require that you check your camera and any packs you might have.

Nevertheless, we enjoyed our visit, spending almost three hours without a break exploring all five floors. I particularly liked the Royal Reliquary with its artifacts and costumes and the adjoining Throne room. The Throne Room contained miniature models of the eight kinds of thrones of ancient Myanmar kings, plus the magnificent Royal Lion Throne of the last monarch King Thibaw. It was returned to Myanmar from Calcutta in 1946 by Lord Mountbatten.

The Showroom for the Culture of National Races or what I would call the Ethnic Exhibit was most interesting. I really began to appreciate the differences and similarities of the various ethnic groups in Myanmar and also recognize why there are separatist movements all over the country.

The Yadanabon Period Showroom featured royal furnishings from the Mandalay Palace. I am always amazed and fascinated by the luxuriousness of these kinds of exhibits. Whether it’s the Forbidden City in China or Versailles outside Paris, my impression always is of excess. Maybe that’s what the subjects of these monarchs expected.

We liked the exhibit covering early Bagan, the Myanmar Historic Period Showroom because we had already visited Bagan. Right next door is the Buddha Image exhibit with over 200 different statues of the Buddha—a little overwhelming.

We found the exhibits covering the Myanmar Performing Arts interesting but we were not as impressed with the two Myanmar Art Galleries. The Folk Art showroom contained almost too much stuff so that the different exhibits started to blur together. I must also admit that I zipped through the prehistoric and calligraphy showrooms as these did not really interest me.

In summary, I’m glad we went. If you do not value museum visits, you might save this place for a rainy day.

Open daily 10:00am to 4:00pm. Admission is $5.00. Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 31, 2006

National Museum
Pyay Road
Yangon, Myanmar

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Should You Even Be Going to Myanmar?

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Farmer's Plowing Outside Mandalay Photo - Myanmar, Asia

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The United States Government has taken the position that having Myanmar as a member of ASEAN reduces that group’s credibility and threatens to boycott ASEAN meetings. Talk about cutting off your nose to spite your face. This exemplifies the kind of arrogance that the current administration seems to feel it has the right to exhibit just because it's the United States.My wife, Pam, and I visited Myanmar for the first time in late 2004. We were there for 11 days. Before our departure, I, at least, agonized over whether it was "the right thing to do" to visit a country that trampled over people's rights as Myanmar supposedly did. Pam was more pragmatic about the whole thing and pointed out tha...Read More

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Motoring and Strolling Around Yangon - Inya Lake, Kandawgyi Park, Shopping, Noteworthy Hotels and more.

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Interior of Bogyoke Aung San Market Photo -

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We scheduled two full days in Yangon at the end of our trip. In order to maximize our time we took the advice of our guide, Nomo, and also used the Lonely Planet guidebook to decide what we could see in the time available while still doing some unscheduled wandering.On one of the days, we had access to a car and driver. In addition to the Shwedagon and Chaukhtatgyi Pagodas, covered elsewhere in this journal, we visited Inya Lake. The area near the lake is a popular spot for family outings and picnicking. There are also restaurants, hotels and shops scattered around the lakeshore. The ubiquitous food stalls are mostly clustered at the South end of the lake. The University of Yangon, which w...Read More

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Myanmar - Come in Rangoon, Come in!