Budapest Hotels and Restaurants

Budapest accommodation has two distinct seasons, high from April to October and during Christmas, and low for the other few months. Not only are prices different, but the chances of getting what you want are dramatically different too.

During summer, Budapest is bursting at the seams, and beds can be extremely difficult to find if you have not booked ahead. During this period, local families rent out private rooms to visitors and these can be booked through some travel agencies. Alternatives are the hostels for budget travelers, pensions for mid-range travelers and hotels of varying standards for everyone.

Budapest straddles the Danube Rive and consists of Buda on the west bank and Pest on the east. Buda has fewer hotels with less choice particularly in the mid-range. My recommendation is that If you can afford to, stay in Pest as close to the center as possible. You will be close to the major sightseeing attractions and there is more in the way of restaurants, nightlife, and shopping here. One of the best spots is along the river where some hotels offer magical views across to the Royal Palace.

Budapest residents love eating and drinking and these days the range in styles of cuisine, quality, and price are enormous. You will find some great local restaurants with traditional Hungarian food and others serving Middle Eastern, Asian and Big Macs. In the best restaurants, a meal can cost an average citizens’ monthly wage but there are back-street diners where prices for visitors are a bargain. In the tourist areas, watch out for rip-offs as they are common. Several friends have been caught on Budapest visits.

Cafes are also popular – from the famous traditional Gerbeaud’s, to modern-style chrome affairs. Most serve excellent coffee. Strong black coffee in small cups is still the local favourite but cappuccinos and flat whites are readily available. Many cafes offer newspapers and magazines to enliven the experience but few of these will be in English. Most offer lavish cream cakes (delicious) at fairly high prices.

Quick Tips:

In the peak period, it is essential to make a booking at most of the up-market restaurants. Note that many restaurants open late but some kitchens close at 10.30pm.

Watch out for rip-offs in restaurants and cafes. Some places will give you menus without prices, others add various unannounced charges to the bill, and some provide wine at exorbitant prices. You should always insist on a priced menu and drinks list before ordering, and check the bill closely before paying.

Many restaurants offer some sort of music at night. This can be nice but if you are looking for value-for-money, avoid any places with gypsy bands as most tend to be touristy and expensive.

Best Way To Get Around:

Most of the best restaurants are within walking distance of the inner city Pest hotels. If you are staying further afield, the metro offers a fast and convenient way to get around. Deak Terrace is the only station served by all three lines but fortunately it is in the central city so this is the obvious place to alight and start walking.

The Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest is a landmark on Roosevelt Square, at the foot of the historic Chain Bridge. It is probably Budapest’s best hotel and has the most distinguished architecture. The 179 guest rooms, including 14 suites, reflect the grandeur of the hotel's exalted location and all the beauty of the Art Nouveau period. Views are sensational, ranging from intimate interior courtyards to the sparkling Danube River, the Chain Bridge, the Buda Hills, the Royal Castle, or the city.

There is an elegant backdrop of sweeping staircases and a magnificent glass cupola. Luxurious comforts, riverside dining, indigenous spa treatments, and state-of-the-art fitness make this a wonderful base for exploring Budapest if your credit card can stand the pace (or if the boss is paying).

There is a wide choice of rooms. With city or courtyard views, Superior Rooms are located on the Hotel’s first to fifth floors. Slightly larger Deluxe Rooms offer similar views while Gresham Rooms feature similar views and special ambience with one king-size or two twin beds. The Danube Superior Rooms offer a step-out balcony from the fifth floor with views of the Danube. Danube Deluxe Rooms boast similar views, as do the more spacious Danube Premier Rooms. Then there are suites offering extra space and luxury.

The hotel has some excellent restaurant options. Pava Restaurant has a contemporary Italian menu emphasising fresh produce. It boasts stunning views across Roosevelt Square to the Danube. The restaurant seats 78. An alternative is Gresham Kávéház, which is modelled on a café long frequented by Budapest’s intelligentsia from the nearby Hungarian Academy of Sciences, and is adjacent to the magnificent Hotel lobby. It features contemporary fare: appetisers (including foie gras), soups, sandwiches, and a wide selection of mouth-watering pastries. In keeping with the city’s coffeehouse tradition, a range of coffees is served, along with scrumptious afternoon teas. The quietly inviting and stylishly romantic atmosphere is enhanced by the tunes of the 1900s, played by a jazz trio during dinner. The Bar is probably my favourite place beneath its magnificent glass cupola. Light appetisers and refreshments are served, including a selection of martinis and local and international beers.

Inspired by Budapest's rich spa heritage, The Spa offers an extensive range of rejuvenating therapies, massages, and treatments. Located on the top floor of the hotel, there are seven private massage and treatment rooms, as well as a unisex sauna, separate steam rooms for men and women, and a whirlpool. You can continue your spa relaxation in the indoor pool located on the top floor of the hotel, next to the spa. Underwater light and music calm you as you swim. There is also an adjacent whirlpool. Poolside provides a chance to refresh yourself with a cup of hot tea or some fresh fruit.

A special relaxing atmosphere, luxurious rooms, and elegant restaurants await you at this flashy five-star hotel right in the center of town. We found this a place to enjoy the ambience and service of a luxury hotel, experience its unique hospitality and expect to find state-of-the-art technology and equipment.

The 335 rooms in the Kempinski Hotel Corvinus are generously sized and reflect the hotel's discriminating style. The elegant flair of the fixtures and fittings and the work of some 330 staff made us feel at home throughout your stay.

The rooms are outstanding. All feature three direct-dial telephones, fax/PC connections, safe, individually controlled air-conditioning, high-tech infotainment system, large desk with office tools, and newspapers and magazines. There was a spacious bathroom with underfloor heating, and a separate shower cubicle and bath together with a hairdryer, make-up mirror, scales, body-care items, bathrobe, and slippers.

Without any doubt, the buffet breakfast at this hotel was the best we experienced in 2 weeks of travel. It was served in the smart Bistro Jardin on the ground floor where they also serve lunch and dinner. Even further up-market is the fine dining Ristorante Giardino. The Lobby Lounge is an ideal place to meet friends at teatime and we can recommend the Corvinus Bar for a glass of champagne before your evening begins.

One night we went with a group of friends to the Kempi Brauhaus - the only authentic Bavarian restaurant in Budapest. You actually go outside the hotel to enter it. With German trained cooks and friendly service staff, this is the place for authentic Bavarian fare. It was great fun to drink foaming beer, and tuck into Leberkäse, white sausages with mustard, calf liver, meatballs in cabbage, veal knuckle, Bavarian sausage salad and a host of other traditional recipes. The Brauhaus has a rustic feel but its sophisticated facilities including all tables with high speed internet connection, an excellent sound system and a large TV.

Standard rooms at the hotel are from € 260 to 399, and they go up from here.

Restaurant Aranybárány (Golden Lamb), which not surprisingly, specialises in lamb dishes, has been created in the style of a traditional Hungarian wine-cellar. It claims to depict the atmosphere and lifestyle of Hungarian peasantry and it certainly is what many Westerners see as "authentic." The décor is decidedly Hungarian, from the Transylvanian dark-wood furnishings to the seat cushions.

The restaurant has an excellent location in the heart of the old historical part of Pest, near the Gerbeaud Cafe, the Hotel Kempinski and Vörösmarty Square. Beside excellent Hungarian dishes, there are good Hungarian wines, live gypsy music, and great atmosphere. The restaurant operates as a family business and is a good place to experience local Hungarian food and hospitality. We went one evening and the place was really humming. There appeared to be a good mix of locals and tourists—always a good sign.

We thought the food was excellent. We went with a group of people and had a lamb stew starter, a duck main course, and a selection of desserts. The waiter helped us pick some local wines and they were excellent with our choice of food. No one in our group spoke Hungarian, but this was not a problem. We thought the service was quick and friendly. Who could ask for more?

I normally steer clear of restaurants offering "special" atmosphere or music because I think it often substitutes for good food. Not here. The food was perfect for a cold night, and the music and atmosphere were superb. Obviously it helped being in a group, but I am sure we would have appreciated the "gypsy" music and the flamboyant fiddle player under any circumstances.

The legendary Gerbeaud, in the heart of Budapest, is one of the largest, most traditional, and most famous caf้e-confectioneries in Europe. I absolutely love it. Refinement is the operative word at Caf้e Gerbeaud. This is one caf้e where indulging one's sweet tooth is elevated to an art form.

The caf้e was established by Henrik Kugler in 1858 and expanded by its later owner, Emil Gerbeaud. Lovingly renovated in 1997, GERBEAUD shines with the cultured nostalgia of its original days: rich plaster work, magnificent chandeliers, marble tables, lavish fine wood paneling, and brocade wall coverings that characterise the elegant, yet comfortable atmosphere of this home of tradition.

Gerbeaud's specialities include famous cakes, such as Esterhแzy and Dobos cakes, as well as all kind of cream cakes, extravagant bakery goods and exquisite ice-creams. Besides what's listed on the menu, have a look at the displays inside to see the day's special offerings. Up to 330 guests can enjoy the classic coffee-house atmosphere in the various salons, whiling away the day reading newspapers, chatting, people-watching, and thinking. On warm days, there is room on the terrace for an additional 300 guests. Here, directly on the busy V๖r๖smarty Square, the motto is "to see and to be seen". The caf้ opens from 9am to 9pm. I urge you to visit.

There is a tradition in Budapest that people in a hurry prefer the "little sister", the Kis Gerbeaud, right around the corner on Harmincad utca. Here you can either stylishly enjoy a "stand-up" coffee or select a few delicacies for a quick breakfast back at the hotel or in the square. The building also houses the Restaurant Gerbeaud which is an oasis of calm in the covered courtyard right next to the Kis Gerbeaud. Great food, good service, multilingual staff and an exclusive selection of domestic wines mix with a great location.

An Express Business Lunch is offered daily as well as a Candlelight Dinner. The restaurant which can only seat about 45 has an enchanting atmosphere with a unique glass roof dating from 1892. In summer, the terrace of the restaurant on the V๖r๖smarty Square is an especially popular meeting place. The restaurant opens from noon to 3pm and from 6pm to 10pm.

The Pub, reachable from Dorottya utca, is in the historic vaulted cellars of the building. A secret tip is the Gerbeaud beer, a Pilsner-style beer made according to a house recipe, and considered one of the best beers in all Budapest. The Pub offers hearty, but not too heavy, meals. These range from beer snacks to rustic grilled specialities and beloved Hungarian varieties of p๖rk๖lt (goulash), which are served topped with a baked bread crust in an earthenware pot. The pub opens from noon to 11pm daily.

Major credit cards as well as the Budapest Card are welcome.

One of the more interesting trips to do in Budapest is an evening restaurant cruise on the Danube River. There are several boats that cruise every night during the summer season, and weekends for the rest of the year. They leave from a couple of different points on the Pest side of the river.

One such operator is the Mahart Passnave Personal Shipping Co., which has a departure at 7.30pm from Vigado ter in the heart of the city. The trip consists of a 2-hour, pleasant sight-seeing cruise with live music and dinner choice. The boat cruises around Margaret Island first, and then cruises south to the New National Theatre before it moors again at the Vigadó tér Landing Stage.

The sight-seeing is good because many of the buildings along the banks, and some of the bridges, are well lit. Parliament House and Buda Castle are particularly impressive. The view from the river is quite unique, and the gentle movement of the boat provides a great relaxing atmosphere.

On board there was a dinner choice from a buffet-table. On our cruise there were four cold dishes, three warm dishes, cheese plates, salads, and desserts. The food was good and there was plenty for everyone. The boat had a drink bar with a wide variety of drinks for purchase.

Ticket for adults (includes the buffet-table dinner) were 4.990 HUF, and for children between 6 and 15 years (includes the buffet-table dinner) the price was 2.490 HUF. Children under 6 years were free.

I didn’t see it but I was told about the Operetta ship, which operates from April to October. During the candle-lit voyage there is an international program of singing, instrumental music, and dancing by artists of the Hungarian State Opera House and Budapest Operetta Theatre. They sing and play popular passages of operas and operettas, Italian and Spanish songs, and musicals in their original languages, and perform folklore, classical and step dances in elegant costumes. Further information is available by calling  402-00-63.

There are also restaurants on boats that don’t move. The Columbus was one of the first, and is still one of the most interesting. If you can get a table on the deck, you will be able to enjoy one of the best views in town–the magnificent panorama of Castle Hill, the Liberation Monument and the bridges spanning the river. Try to get a seat facing the river rather than the touristy promenade.

Inside, the theme is nautical, with lots of wood and brass fittings giving the impression of dining on a boat, even if this one never moves. The place was packed when I saw it and I am told this is often the case.

Unfortunately I had no time to eat here but a friend told me the smoked knuckle of pork is only for those with giant appetites, and the five chicken wings covered in a fiery sauce and the fresh Greek salad is tasty and filling, especially when accompanied by a basket of bread.