Novice Survival Guide

LOCAL BUSES: I have taken local buses in several cities. If you embark at the beginning of the route there are no problems. Otherwise, they are crowded and you need to get to the door before your stop or you might not be able to get off. You get on the bus and find a place to sit or stand and a host will come to you for money. They do give change. Some buses that travel a decent distance in larger cities have different prices, so carry a piece of paper with your destination written on it or a brochure of the sight. (The latter is the best... as being a foreigner you will often be motioned toward the door, meaning the next stop is yours.) How do you know if there are multiple prices when you don’t know the language? I held out a bill large enough to know I’m covered and when I receive a strange look, or hear Chinese, I show my destination.

LONG DISTANCE BUSES: I have taken the long distance express bus that takes about 5 hours to Yichang for $13. Not that the express is any faster, but it is roomier and has toilets.

TRAINS: There are three types of trains. There are regular trains and the faster T and K trains. Onboard there are soft sleepers that contain four soft beds, have a large thermos of hot water, and a locking door. The hard sleepers have six beds of 6inch-deep foam and no door. A seat can be hard or soft. The following prices for a trip from Beijing to Xi’an illustrates why the hard sleepers fill-up quickly. Sleepers can only be reserved at point of origin. In essence, in this example, you can’t book the sleeper from one of the midway stops to Xi’an. Prices below are in U.S. dollars:

Soft sleeper = $53
Hard sleeper = $33
Soft/hard seat = $30, $20

Bathrooms consist of squat toilets with a bucket of water and ladle for flushing. A tiny sink provides cold water for washing. Take your own toilet paper, towel, and soap. Bookings for sleepers are not available for more than 10 days in advance. CITS offices are located in larger stations and are a great way to avoid the lines and language barriers, with a service fee of about $5. They will also store your luggage and direct to you to the correct platform. I had several hours before my train from Shanghai was departing, and storing my luggage was great. A nearby shopping area proved to have many great bargains.

CITS will also arrange for accommodations, which was very convenient in Datong. I only needed one night, and they literally walked out the door and pointed to a hotel across the street that they had just called to make reservations for me. Since English was definitely not spoken here, I don't know if I could have gotten a room on my own.

SUBWAYS: In Beijing, route maps posted in several places are not in English. You will need to know the stop from your hotel or map. Use the machines if you’re brave, or buy a ticket from the kiosk after showing them the destination. From the route maps you saw, I recommend counting the number of stops to your destination. On the subway, neon signs show the next stop if your view is not hindered. The overhead speaker in Beijing announces the next stop in English, but the pronunciation and incorrect syllable accent made it difficult to understand.

If I had the option to travel by subway everywhere in China, I would. The stations and trains are very clean and much faster than a taxi. A new line in Beijing will open before the Olympics.

ASKING QUESTIONS: Most people in China still fear loosing face. I have yet to learn what that encompasses, but telling me they don’t know seems to be one of them. If I ask, obviously pointing to something on a map or showing an address, they will indicate I need to take a taxi. If I ask where bus #29 is, I am told it is not running or will be pointed to the main bus station some distance away. I always ask three people the same question.

CURIOUS OR NOSEY: Whether you are pointing to a map or showing an address on a piece of paper, you will quickly draw a large crowd. While writing down an email address in English for my student, I was surrounded by people that neither spoke nor read English. I was looking at my map, when someone walked over to look at it, lifted the corner to see what was on the other side, and then walked away.

While maintenance was in my apartment, which had left my door open, a stranger walked in to see what they were doing and then walked out without saying a word.

When I was paying my phone bill, I had people stand right next to me at the counter and look in my purse while I pulled out my wallet. They will even reach over and take a closer look at my bill lying on the counter.

Those that speak English will want to practice with you or should I say "on" you. They ask four questions before saying good-bye, and leave without telling you so much as their name.

1. Where are you from?
2. How old are you?
3. How much do you weigh?
4. How much money did you make?

I am teaching my students that these are not acceptable questions to foreigners, especially women.

PRICING BY HAND SIGNALS: When indicating price, one is indicated by holding up your pinkie finger, two includes the ring finger next to it and so on to five. Six in indicated with the pinkie and thumb of the same hand. Seven is indicated by touching the thumb to the middle finger and eight with the index finger and thumb held like a gun. Yes, I know, these last two seem backwards. Nine is represented by crooking your index finger almost like the shape of the number nine, and ten is indicated by crossing your index and middle finger. Your two index fingers creating a cross shows half yuan, as in 1.50. Therefore, 6.50 yuan would be like a hang ten sign followed by a crossing of the two index fingers.

As often as I have used these signals, it tells you that not all shopkeepers have calculators or can write in English. When they do write, sometimes you can’t locate the decimal.

FLIGHTS: There used to be a domestic and international departure tax paid by standing in a line at the airport. Now those taxes are included in your ticket price.

I have booked connecting flights with long layovers. When I arrived at the airport, I tried for an earlier connection, but was declined, as the price was too much for the fare I paid. At the connecting airport, being closer to departure time, I inquired again to receive a lower acceptable fee.

Security is much more pleasant than in the US. I did not have to take off my shoes, coat, or scarf. After having my items scanned, without touching my bag, I was asked if I had a bottle of water. I opened my bag, showed it to them, and went on my way. They do perform random wanding, which in no way indicates a power trip by security after seeing it performed on others as well as myself once.

TAXIS: Initial rates vary based on the city. You will hear about it and read about it: do not accept taxis that don’t use meters. One tried to charge me twice what the metered taxi did. You are responsible for tolls at the end of your ride. Fares are rounded up to the near yuan.

PEDESTRIANS: First, let me say that vehicles drive on the right. Why do I mention this? So you will get a visual of the fact that drivers often make a left turn into oncoming traffic lanes and then merge in. This means that when you look both directions before crossing the street that before you get to the middle of the road, someone from your right might be coming right at you.

Even where there are traffic signals, be forewarned that drivers often ignore them. Lights seem to be a suggestion, not a regulation. Crosswalks don’t make you any safer. Drivers do not slow down, much less stop, for pedestrians anywhere. This includes sidewalks. Motorcycles and motor scooters park on sidewalks. Hence, they drive on sidewalks as well and will honk at you. I have found the best idea is not to move. Otherwise, you will inevitably move the same direction as the vehicle that is trying to go around you. The middle section of the pedestrian bridges, designed for bikes to be walked across by an individual, will also have motor scooters on them. There seems to be a game of chicken going on, as well as the idea that whatever way is the most efficient is good for all.

If you happen to be walking during the meal times, which are at 8am, 12pm, and 5pm, watch where you are stepping and what is around you. People walk around slurping noodles from bowls that they promptly toss, liquid and all, onto the ground. Hence, you might be hit by one landing on the ground or step in the mess it left behind. Maybe this is why there are many shoe shiners. They have a thing about clean shoes in China.

Personally, I have noticed nothing for disabled travellers. I could not imagine someone with a walker or in a wheelchair attempting to cross the streets. A disable person would be much better off with door-to-door taxi service. I have not come across facilities in hotels either. At some of the attractions there will be one western toilet which they mark with a disabled sign. Unfortunately, it still has the typical step up of about 6 inches into the stall and no handrails.

DINING: Most locals eat at vendors whose prices are less than a quarter and range from a bowl of noodles to tofu and meat kebabs. Fried items will be in a baggie or with a strip of cardboard, and maybe chopsticks. Nonetheless, this is a very inexpensive way to taste the local foods.

McDonald’s, KFC, and Pizza Hut are prevalent in China, and a good place to go if you need comfort food or to be amused. McDonald’s offers rice and you can have eel or tuna on your pizza. KFC serves corn in lieu of mashed potatoes. Wal-mart always has two of these chains next to them.

BEVERAGES can be quite expensive at restaurants. A cup of instant coffee served in a teacup is anywhere from $2.50 to $3.75. American soda cost $2.50 per can. This brings up the idea of buying a jar of instant coffee for $3.50 or a can or soda for .25 at one of the markets. In addition to Wal-mart, other big supermarkets are Carrefours.

ICE, in restaurants where you find it, is an additional charge and I have no idea if they use bottled water. I would not order a mixed drink in bar with ice for that reason. Beer and wine are the most common alcoholic beverages. Red wine ranges from excessively sweet grape juice to lightly flavored. White wine is horrible, equivalent to straight whiskey.

You will find little choice in the way of Italian, French, and Mexican food. Cheese is an expensive item in the grocery store and has little flavor unless it is an American brand. Bread, while available, is usually white with a sweet taste. You won’t find wheat or dark breads.

You will find many interesting foods in China. Dining with a group, I have seen PIG’S ears, DUCK’S feet, and TURTLES floating in the soups. I will avoid telling you about what type of animals I have see skinned and hanging in the meat markets. Much to my dismay and chagrin I discovered vegetarians can have a difficult time dining. Years ago, only the very poor did not eat meat. I am continually asked why I do not eat meat and continually told to try it, as it won’t hurt me. Superiors at my school are relentless. They put the previously mentioned foods in my bowl expecting me to eat it. As a VEGETARIAN I strongly recommend the egg and tomato, stir fried eggplant with peanuts, and the bean curd with bok choy.

SALADS with lettuce are difficult to find. I ordered a tomato and cucumber salad and received just that without a single leaf of lettuce. Mayonnaise was served as dressing.

STRANGE SNACKS include cucumber, strawberry, lemon, and shrimp flavored potato chips. Popsicles come in flavors like lentil and pea. If you like chocolate, buy name brand like Snicker's, M&M’s, and Dove Bars. The taste of their candy bars seems to be more like carob than chocolate.

MAIL: Postcards are difficult to find in all but the major tourist cities. You need to go to China Post for stamps, and they require four stamps of .80 yuan each to mail to the U.S. There doesn’t seem to be a single stamp that covers the postage. Postcards mailed within China cost .60 yuan.

If you mail any packages back, do not seal the box. A postal clerk needs to look at the contents. Tape is available to seal the box. You will be given a form where you need to list the contents and prices. Standard delivery by ground or ship takes approximately 4 weeks. Express takes less than a week.

PHOTOGRAPHY: You will have no problem purchasing standard batteries, flashcards, or 35mm film. I strongly urge having extra batteries. Perhaps it is the humidity, but batteries don’t last nearly as long as they did in my home country, including ones I had brought with me.

Having film developed into pictures is interesting. They are coated in thick plastic. I chose to have mine put on CD/DVD for a cost of about $2.50, including the disk. Contrary to what I would have thought, this process is not available at Wal-mart; you need to go a Kodak developing shop.

MAPS: The maps in China are either overly detailed or very general. A good idea is to purchase maps of the areas you wish visit before. Another option is to bring a guidebook or print the maps from the guidebook websites. These maps, combined with the maps you find in China to buy or in your hotel room, work best. I try to match what I want to see on the maps I brought with the versions here, and circle the names in Chinese to use for taxi drivers. Another suggestion is to have brochures of the individual sights you wish to visit, which can be picked up at information booths and tourist bureaus. Chinese characters are used on the streets, shops, and everywhere else, but nearly everyone understands pinyin, which are Chinese words that are printed using the English letter alphabet. Guidebooks list names of sights in both English and Pinyin. The problem is that the font is so small.

ACCOMMODATIONS: I have stayed in a variety of accommodations from four-star hotels to hostels. I have found shampoo and conditioner, toothbrush and toothpaste, slippers, and combs in all but the hostels. Most will also provide tea and an electric water heater. Since bottled water isn't provided, either bring some or boil the water for brushing your teeth. In the two-star and sometimes three-star hotels, you will find that the shower is not separate from the rest of the bathroom. This means that the water from showering is all over the floor by the sink and toilet. The water flows into a drain under the shower. If you shower in the morning, the floor will be dry of its own accord when you return, or house cleaners will have mopped it dry.

For disabled travellers, I would strongly recommend checking with the hotel directly to see what facilities are in the bathroom.

China does not seem to be able to accommodate disabled travellers. I don't know that someone in a walker would feel very comfortable traveling in this country, which is a shame considering all there is to see.

SHOPPING: Prices by comparison to western countries are inexpensive, although bargaining is the norm everywhere there are not prices listed on the items. If you want to make sure you are getting a decent price or simply don’t like negotiating, Friendship Stores, which are government stores, are available in many cities. On the other hand, this store as well as Wal-mart and Carrefour, have souvenirs, electronics, and household items that give you an idea of what the prices should be in the open markets.

Sample prices based on 8 yuan to $1:

Bottle of water: 1 yuan
Can of soda: 2 yuan
Bottle of orange juice: 2.5 yuan
Gum: 1.5 yuan
Pastry: .5 yuan
Loaf of Bread 3.5 yuan

THINGS TO BUY: Hand painted scrolls with scenery and oriental figures come in sizes that would be great for coasters on up to 4’ long. They are lightweight and easy to pack. Scarves made from pure silk and a blend of silk and cashmere called pashmere are inexpensive. For teens, the oriental dolls are beautiful, and for younger children there are travel size games of chess and checkers with oriental characters on one side. Playing cards with various local sights printed on them are about $2.50 each.

DVDs and CD’s are inexpensive, but are best to buy in chain stores. Someone sitting in a theater, or listening to music records, sells them in the smaller shops. Others are yet-to-be release pirated ones in Chinese. Some countries have laws against bringing in articles that violate copyright laws.

MONEY: First, foremost, and extremely important is; KEEP YOUR EXCHANGE RECEIPT. If you need to change any money back into your home currency, you need the original exchange receipt. Cash advances are available through ATM’s using your PIN. Bank of China and China Bank are places to exchange currency. Legally, locals aren’t permitted to have foreign currency. Those that do are called ‘touts’ and serve a purpose if you don’t have your receipt and want to convert your money back. Finding a reputable one, I am told, is necessary.

Credit cards not issued in China are accepted at the upscale hotels and restaurants. If you check on the charges Visa/MasterCard and American Express charge as well as the issuing bank, you may discover you didn’t want to use them anyway. Last I checked, these fees total 3 percent and that doesn’t include the markup several merchants tack on for using them. Traveler’s checks need to be exchanged at the banks, as merchants do not accept them.

China’s currency is the Reminibi and consists of yuans and jiaos. Yuan bills come in denominations of 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1. Jiao bills are slightly smaller come in 5, 2, and 1. Jiao coins come in the same denominations. There is also a 1-yuan coin that is larger than the jiaos. Ten jiaos make 1 yuan. The fen is the tiniest lightweight coin and practically useless.

Living in China is very insightful. Located in a suburb of Wuhan, Hubei, I am exposed to cultural aspects that tourists couldn’t imagine, and problems in my accommodations that aren’t fixed or band-aided at best.

The Chinese can be quite offensive and rude. The only other foreigner, a fellow teacher, is heavy. When she had to have her blood drawn, the nurse told her she couldn’t find a vein because she was fat. Students and parents refer to fat Americans and tell her she shouldn’t eat fast-food. Mind you, both of us are vegetarians, for which they chastise us, and 90% of the vendor foods we see them eating are fried.

We are accustomed to bathing every day, and some of these people don’t even have showers. A local teacher told me it was so cold during that winter day that she only washed her face, feet and a**, and no I didn’t say anything. Then her daughter mentioned periodic trips to the bathhouse to clean the whole body. The mother shot a look of disapproval to her child. As a side note, deodorant isn’t sold locally. I had to go to cosmetic store in Wuhan, where they sold one expensive brand. Cleaning the entire body is not important. Yet people here have a shoe fetish; having clean ones that is. They will look down at my dusty tennis with a look of disgust.

More than the constant and continual staring the LAUGHING IS DEPLORABLE. If they can’t or won’t help you in a bank, post office, or in my friend’s case the hospital. They will start laughing at you with others joining in the raucous. She had to have a doctor come to her apartment to remove the stitches from surgery she had performed in Wuhan rather than locally.

When we mention these events to our Foreign Affairs Officer he does what they all do, covers for a fellow Chinese. He says maybe they didn’t understand you, or maybe the bank ran out of money. He gives the LAMEST EXCUSES (***see transportation entry***). On the other hand, maybe this is how Chinese "save face."

Chinese here have NO SENSE OF PERSONAL SPACE, PROPERTY, OR HOUSING (***see curios entry***). If you are dining and have your sunglasses on the table, they will pick them up, look at them, and put them down. They don’t smile or motion asking permission. They will look at the book you are reading, and even take it out of your hands to see the cover.

They seem to THRIVE ON NOISE. The fireworks that lie on the ground, making a series of loud bangs, are a daily occurrence. They honk their horns down the streets and sidewalks (***see pedestrian entry***). They yawn, sneeze, and chew loud as well. Moreover, yes, it always appears they are yelling at each other.

Litter of all kinds is everywhere. Are there no trashcans? Yes, in the bigger cities there are. They are square metal containers with the side facing the gutter completely open. Workers come by with tongs and brooms to collect the refuse from the sidewalks and streets. Then later a vehicle comes by to wet the street, but no motorized street sweepers.

Since it is well publicized they SPIT unbelievably large globs and BLOW THEIR NOSES onto the sidewalk, I won’t go into it. I’ve read this is a concern in Beijing for the Olympics. Whether this would have an impact on future tourism, I have no idea.

Trying to LEARN THE LANGUAGE while in China is impossible, if not futile. The Foreign Affairs Officer and one English teacher that speak English would help me correctly pronounce pleasantries. When I would use them in shops, they would laugh at me. Locals liken it to a dog learning a trick. I had read Chinese pity people who don’t speak Chinese. Then when I would go into "the city." I would hear locals talk, and their pronunciations were different. So again, they laughed at me, but because they thought my pronunciation was wrong. They assumed I was living there, not realizing I was surrounded by a different dialect. Where I live, they speak Honganese and in "the city," they spoke Wuhanese.

China has some incredible historical and natural sights. I thoroughly enjoyed my vacations where other tourists visit. Although I have learned a lot living in China, I wouldn’t do it again for all the tea in China. Theirs is a culture too different from mine.

The Beijing 2008 Olympic Mascots, the Five Friendlies, have generated a lot of talk among foreigners and Chinese alike. Everything from personal opinions of their appearance to possibilities of a political agenda is discussed in English Corners, local website forums, and in Internet cafes. I PERSONALLY LISTENED AND READ WITHOUT COMMENT. Before getting into some of the controversy surrounding these characters, I am going to give a description of them.

The Five Friendlies were chosen and designed to represent China’s most popular animals and the Olympic Flame. Each character is colored to represent the five colored rings of the Olympic flag. Embodying the elements of nature, very important to Chinese, was also a consideration. There names combined, Beibei, Jingjing, Huanhuan, Yingying, and Nini to spell out "Beijing Welcomes You." I notice in articles written about them that they also have genders.

BEIBEI is the blue fish, who obviously represents the elements of water. She represents strength in water sports.

JINGJING is a black and white panda, standing for the black Olympic ring. In his headdress are green leaves for the lush forests of China. He is known for his physical strength.

HUANHUAN is red, with the Olympic flame for a headdress. He is an inspiration to all athletes to excel.

YINGYING is yellow, with antlers of the Tibetan antelope. He is fast and graceful, and dominates the track and field events.

NINI is the green swallow. A favorite kite in China is the swallow, like the one on her head. She is a favorite in gymnastics.

Souvenirs like key chains are sold with one of the Friendlies performing one of the sports. For example, a diver would be show with Beibei’s character while a Jingjing would be lifting weights. Of course, there are many types of souvenirs, some with the Friendlies, some with the Olympic rings, and some with the running man.

Severe penalties are imposed for selling counterfeit Olympic products. In the China Daily, I read about a raid of 16 vendors who were given heavy fines. This prompted a discussion about the lack of copyright protection of products from the USA. The bottom line was that Chinese officials won’t, not can’t, enforce laws on other items.

Several people, both expats and locals, in an opinion poll indicated that the characters were childish and that they somehow looked Japanese. No one could embellish on exactly what made them look Japanese. One person pointed out they had a similar look to the well-known Rekoko characters that are popular in Japan. A local quickly responded to this saying the Japanese steal everything from China. My curiosity prompted me to find a website with these figures. There are in fact five of them, in the five Olympic colors, with a head size out of proportion to the body. Although, the ones I was looking at were not cartoon characters.

Another heated discussion ensued when a post came out that the Yingying character was an affront to Tibetans disguised as an appeasement. The post indicated that the International Campaign for Tibet chastised the decision to include an animal native to Tibet without protecting its survival. Especially give the fact that soldiers slaughtered them for meat from the 1950s to the 1970s, and in the 1980s when it was learned of their fine wool. Apparently, the animals are still considered in danger of extinction.

More than you ever wanted to know? Yes, I suppose it is. Nonetheless, it is another interesting item I have learned while living in this country.