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Paris

Back to Paris

Fifth Floor facing the streetMore Photos
  • by pabrams52
  • A March 2006 travel journal
  • Last Updated: April 15, 2006
Journal Usefulness Rating 3 out of 5
Journal Usefulness
14
Reviews
1
Experience
14
Photos

I can hardly believe that I am going BACK to Paris. This being my second visit, I'll enjoy the sense of familiarity as well as an enhanced travel "comfort level" that only comes through prior experience.

Caron de Beaumarchais

Hotel

Fifth Floor facing the street

Caron de Beaumarchais

The hotel has made an effort to create a "feel for an era" when the music of Mozart prevailed and his opera, The Marriage of Figaro, was based on a play by the hotel's namesake, Count Beaumarchais. This play was then adapted into the opera by Mozart's librettist, Lorenzo da Ponte. http://www.reginaopera.org/figaro.htm

It's location, in the 4th arrondissement (Marais district), is amenable to accessing anyplace in the city. http://www.carondebeaumarchais.com/

The hotel is itself, as well as the rooms, small but efficient. My first reaction upon entering the hallways and our guestroom was that it felt like a doll's house, but oh-so adorable. Many of Paris's moderate-range hotels are like this, but it should not detract from the visit. We were greeted by the owner, Alain, who could not have been more gracious and inviting. He checked out our room while taking up our bags and then offered us the key. The bed is comfortable. There is small writing desk and two chairs. I liked in particular the fact that our room had two wardrobes, one on either side of the bed, which helped to accommodate our belongings effectively.

This hotel provided more hangers than some, which is always appreciated by women. The bathroom, though small, is clean and in good working condition. It includes a deep though short bathtub, and a movable wand-type showerhead. As is customary in Europe, a shower curtain is not part of the design, so it takes a little finesse not to flood your bathroom while showering. I personally am a bath aficionado and like to soak while I bathe. We faced the front of the hotel and there are tall french doors that open up for air and a view. The heavy wood beams, as well as the miniature chandelier on the ceiling, create a mood for the room, along with the tapestry-style curtains and the worn period-style carpet. The lighting is most adequate, but the unmistakable winner in features is their WI-FI connection in the rooms. This is to die for for any savvy traveler. We LOVED it! For convenience, you just can't beat it. It eliminates the need to search out an internet cafe and get used to a foreign keyboard, while sitting next to noisy and rude patrons while you're trying to collect your thoughts. Isn't technology the best.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by pabrams52 on March 25, 2006

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Caron de Beaumarchais
12, rue Vieille du Temple Paris, France 75004
+33 (1) 4272-3412

Vapeurs du Marais (Les)

Restaurant

Les Vapeurs du Marais

This was the location of our first meal after arriving in Paris. It was in our neighborhood (Marais) and looked to be a small, cozy bistro-style offering. We perused the menu outdoors and quickly decided to give it a try. We were not disappointed. The service was warm and cordial, though English was not their strong suit... we all made due and managed. Both my husband and I ordered mussels accompanied by an excellent Guwurtzraminer. We sopped up the delicious sauce with the ubiquitous baguette, and finished off with an espresso. Due to the convenient proximity, we enjoyed a short stroll back to our hotel. I would definitely return to this restaurant again.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by pabrams52 on March 24, 2006

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Vapeurs du Marais (Les)
50 rue Francois Miron Paris, France
+33 01 42 71 99 00

Camille

Restaurant

Camille

My husband and I visited this lovely restaurant on a single recommendation from a trusted guidebook, "Paris by Bistro" by Christine and Dennis Graf. Camille is located in the trendy Marais district which has much to offer in great shopping and delightful dining experiences. I placed great trust in our reviewers assessment, and we were not let down. My husband generally assesses the success of a restaurant by the volume of visible business being done. Generally, that is a good measure and we found it to be a useful gauge in this case. This small establishment was packed at 9:15pm on a Saturday night. We were third in line of priority and were greeted nearly immediately after walking in the door. This was followed by a complimentary glass of their house rosé wine as we awaited our table.

As many travelers in France know, the pleasure of dining in Paris is the ability to linger and enjoy the moment at either cafes, bistros, or restaurants. The French staff will never hurry or rush you, which is a divine custom—that is, if you're already seated. If you are the one waiting for a coveted table, this could present a dilemma. Does one wait and hope for turnover? We quickly surmised that this bustling and appealing establishment was well worth the wait! We were rewarded for our patience many times over. The dishes are pure French, and reasonably priced. They offer a nice range of appetizers and main courses. I started my meal with a pureed vegetable soup. I ordered the veal blanquette, while my husband had their codfish with mashed potatoes. We accompanied our meal with a refreshing "Sancerre" (white wine). See attached link for information on this wine:

http://www.maigret-in-france.net/travsan.htm

The service was efficient and helpful. I noticed that the owner/manager was unobtrusively surveying the restaurant personally to ensure the contentment of his patrons. That is also a good sign of a well-run establishment.

We concluded our meal with a divine creme brulee which was cooked to perfection... lightly browned and crispy on top and creamy underneath... Mmmmmm! The atmosphere is quite friendly, though the tables are situated fairly close. The atmosphere is quite pleasant and we even exchanged some friendly words with our neighbors at the next table. We had no doubt in our minds that we had made the right choice and would not only recommend it to others but would return there in a heartbeat.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by pabrams52 on March 25, 2006

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Camille
24 rue des Francs-Bourgeois Paris, France
+33 01 4272 2050

Trumilou

Restaurant

Front entrance on rue de Rivoli

Trumilou

I selected this restaurant, as I frequently do, from the dependable Zagat Paris Restaurant Guide (2004/2005). I find this source to be an excellent starting point. I particularly like its organization style (by area, by cuisine, by $, etc.) in helping the traveler find what works for them. Trumilou has an extremely nondescript storefront, but do not let that deceive you! Trumilou is located on the Right Bank, just east of the l'Hotel de Ville (on the river side). What is inside is pure French food heaven. As the guide describes, one feels like they are eating from their French mother's kitchen! The staff is warm, inviting, and efficient. Though the capacity is not large, they make the most of their space, so be prepared to sit close to the next table. I find that nice though, as it cultivates a feeling of community while dining. We ordered a lovely, refreshing bottle of Alsace Reisling to go with the veal cutlet dish I ordered. It was prepared in a "to die for" cream sauce with mushrooms. My husband ordered their duck in a sweet prune sauce. This also was "to die for". Needless to say, we mopped up all remaining gravy with their excellent bread... I wasn't about to leave one drop one the plate—it was THAT good. We finished with an un cafe (espresso). On a scale of 4 stars for the food, I would give them 4 without hesitation. Bon appetite.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by pabrams52 on March 29, 2006

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Trumilou
84 Quai de l'Hotel-de-Ville Paris, France
+33 01 4277 6398

Le Petit Bofinger

Restaurant

Petit Bofinger

While the Zagat guide refers to this restaurant as a "chain," my experience was ANYTHING BUT that type of impression! We were warmly greeted at the door, and the maitre d' explained that he had a little table in the rear section that was non-smoking. We accepted and it turned out to be the beginning of a wonderful dining experience. The gentleman seated at the next table noticed that we were grappling a little bit with the menu and seized the opportunity to break the ice and offered some assistance. That broke the ice and from there, we enjoyed the most delightful and varied conversation with this businessman from Normandy. I have found that encounters such as this are what make a visit most memorable and enjoyable. The dinner we ordered was delicious - my husband and I both settled on fish dishes (mine being salmon with pea pods in an Asian sauce, and his a variety of fish with sauerkraut). We went against custom and ordered a bottle of Bordeaux, and finally finished our meal with sorbet citron (how very refreshing). I have to strongly disagree with Zagat... at least at this location near the Bastille, had an excellent staff that went out of their way to make us feel at home.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by pabrams52 on March 30, 2006

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Le Petit Bofinger
8 rue de la Bastille Paris, France
01 42 72 87 82

L'as du Fallafel

Restaurant

L'as du Fallafel

I set out looking for some chicken soup but ended up at this Middle-Eastern, Jewish delicatessen in the Marais district. This efficiently run restaurant is part sit-down and part take-out providing fare for the local lunch crowd. Their menu predominantly consists of fallafel sandwiches as well as more extensive plates... I had the poulet schnitzel (sauteed breaded chicken breast). The business is brisk and the service is friendly. But what bowled me over was the large crowd of dedicated followers of this establishment standing outside in line at the "to go" window. The restaurant across the street was doing its best to keep up with the competition but L'as du Fallafel makes it tough. They are located in the heart of the Marais district, 4 blocks north of rue de Rivoli between rue Vieille du Temple and rue Malher. Give them a try!
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by pabrams52 on April 6, 2006

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L'as du Fallafel
34, rue des Rosiers Paris, France
+33 01 4887 6360

Poule au Pot

Restaurant

La Poule au Pot

This lovely bistro is owned by the same proprietors of Le Trumilou, at which we had dined several nights earlier. Having enjoyed that experience, we knew we couldn't go wrong at La Poule au Pot. We stumbled on this restaurant while walking not far from the Seine (near Pont des Invalides). The restaurant's specialty, as one can gather from the name, is poulet... CHICKEN, and they do it quite well. The restaurant has a welcoming and cozy feel to it and is staffed by friendly waiters. I very much enjoyed their chicken stew. It was served in a light broth with carrots and potatoes. It's a serving that is almost enough for two, so come with an appetite. Though their wine list is not extensive, the ones they offer are fine compliments to their menu offerings. This lovely restaurant serves you within a reasonable budget and you'll walk away with a memory of a wonderful French meal.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by pabrams52 on April 6, 2006

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Poule au Pot
121 rue de l'Universite Paris, France
+33 01 4705 1636

Jardin du Marais

Restaurant

Jardin du Marais

The outside of this corner Italian restaurant is deceiving. It has a neon sign which says: PIZZA GRILL. One thinks they are going to walk into a casual, laid-back pizza parlor type atmosphere. I was pleasantly surprised NOT to find blaring music and pinball machines as part of the ambiance. The decor is more upscale with a real candle on each table, velour chairs and banquettes and friendly, welcoming staff. The menu is a wide assortment of Italian fare: spaghetti and various other pasta, veal scallopinis and pizza (in many flavor combinations), accompanied by a reasonable wine list. They also include both an assortment of antipasti and dessert offerings.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by pabrams52 on April 7, 2006

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Jardin du Marais
rue Vieille du Temple & rue du Roi de Sicile Paris, France

Kyo

Restaurant

Kyo

Kyo is but one of many trendy restaurants in the popular 4th arrondissement of Paris. Its proximity to our hotel made it a convenient choice while wandering our "neighborhood". We stopped in for lunch and found their flawless Japanese cuisine to be a nice change of pace from the standard Parisian bistro fare. This delightful change of pace offered a modern, minimalist decor with efficient and friendly service. They offer a wide range of "combination plates" from sashimi, to sushi, to rolls, as well as cooked selections. Judging from the bustling business they had during my visit, I would say they've definitely got a foothold in Paris! When you simply cannot look at one more baguette, give them a try!
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by pabrams52 on April 8, 2006

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Kyo
9, rue de la Verrerie Paris, France
+33 01 4272 5648

Kodo

Restaurant

Kodo

Situated within walking distance from the Hotel de Ville metro stop (Line #1), the chic restaurant Kodo is the perfect place for either drinks and hors d'oeurves, dinner with friends, or a night with that special someone. Its "calling card" is the unique decor which is partly a throwback to the 60s/70s style, mixed with contemporary touches, along with its amazing food presentation. Their sleek twist on classic French fare is eye-appealing and delicious. They are situated on the same street as the well-known famous tea purveyor, Mariage Freres and just a couple of doors down from the classy, modern Hotel Bourg Tibourg. Kodo is open from Tuesday through Sunday for dinner and on the weekends they also offer brunch and tea.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by pabrams52 on April 8, 2006

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Kodo
29, rue du Bourg Tibourg Paris, France
+33 01 4274 4525

Cathédrale Notre-Dame

Activity

Inside during Vesper service

Vesper Service at Notre Dame

A friend local friend of ours asked me if I'd be interested in attending the Vesper Service at Notre Dame. I jumped at the opportunity and said, "YES"! It performs on Sundays in the late afternoon at 5:45pm and runs about a half hour. It is free to the public, and is one of the "best deals in town". It gave me a chance to experience the beautiful music played on their magnificent organ. Smelling the incense, hearing the choir, and listening to that glorious music in that setting is a treat not to be missed. As someone who is not Catholic, I relished this rare opportunity. I would recommend it to others as well.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by pabrams52 on March 26, 2006

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Cathédrale Notre-Dame
6, place du Parvis-de-Notre-Dame Paris, France 75004
+33 (1) 42 34 56 10

Opéra Bastille

Activity

Paris Opera Ballet

This was my very first cultural event in Paris, and I was not disappointed. As a ballet aficionado, I scrutinized the Paris Opera Ballet with a critical eye. Though the opera house is not to my liking, I found the ballet company and its production to be much more so. The building (Opera Bastille) was erected in 1990 and is too modern for my tastes. It has a steely gray cement facade and an interior that is not warm and fuzzy. It certainly functions but does not rival the great theatres of Europe. I was particularly WOW-ed by the costumes and sets. They were lavish and spared no expense. The eye for detail and beauty was amazing, and the color in the fabrics they used was unparalleled. The performers absolutely glittered, and one could not help being impressed. I would recommend catching the Paris Opera Ballet if you have a chance. They are one of the finest ballet companies in the world and are known for their precision. I purchased my tickets online at their website about 6 weeks out for our arrival in Paris. Be careful, though: if you want to make sure you see a particular event, give yourself the advantage of time. I was not able to get opera tickets due to it being sold out. The box office suggested I try them the day of the performance (hours before the curtain) to see if any unsold seats became available. For a photo and description of the location, please click on the following link, or paste it into your browser: http://www.atkielski.com/inlink.php?/PhotoGallery/Paris/General/OperaBastilleSmall.html
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by pabrams52 on March 30, 2006

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Opéra Bastille
120, Place de la Bastille Paris, France 75012
+33 (1) 43 43 96 96

Pont du Gard

Activity

Famous Roman aqueduct

Pont du Gard

Much of the beauty of Pont du Gard is due to the fact that this amazing Roman-built aqueduct has survived from its construction, around 19 BC. Taking in my first view of this incredible structure, I obviously had to ask, "how were the correct angles calculated in order to achieve the appropriate flow of water?". At the time of its use, it was reported to have transported 4.4 million gallons daily, over a distance of 31 miles (from Uzès to Roman Nîmes). These figures seem baffling to me in their achievement at a time before modern construction tools and engineering conveniences. I learned that the huge limestone blocks, of which it was built, were erected without mortar. One cannot help but be awed by this beautiful structure. If one walks down to ground level, one can shoot some amazing pictures of its reflection on the Gard River. Seeing Pont du Gard is a must and was certainly a highlight of my visit to the Avignon area. It is certainly one of the remaining wonders of the ancient world!
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by pabrams52 on April 15, 2006

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Pont du Gard
Remoulins, France

Nîmes' Roman Amphitheatre

Activity

Roman Amphitheatre in Nîmes

Nîmes' Roman Amphitheatre

If you see nothing else in Nîmes, see the famous 1st century amphitheatre. Upon entering, the audio tour guide that comes with your ticket, does an excellent job in creating a sense of "being there", as much as is possible. The guide helps to recreate what the experience would have been like for attendees at that arena. It was the site for gladiatorial fights, chariot racing and waterborne battles (it could be flooded). Visitors follow the guide in traversing the structure from entry to the top row where it provides not only an expansive view of the arena, but also of the surrounding village. I felt strangely "transported in time" while listening to the accurate depictions of a typical day at the arena—for instance, the sand in the arena would be turned over several times during the day so as to distribute and minimize the smell of the blood spilled on it. Also, it was typical for the audience to "break for lunch" at mid-day because the event that occurred during that time were merely executions of common criminals, which was of little interest to the crowd. It offered no spectacle since there was no challenge or bravado to it, as with that of the gladiators. As with other remaining Roman-built structures, the construction in this arena has stood the test of time, enabling us to imagine what life was like during that moment in history.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by pabrams52 on April 15, 2006

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Paris, Again? Mais Oui!

Experience

When I began my married life many years ago, I thought it was highly unlikely that I’d ever travel abroad. I remember thinking that there was simply not enough room for working, keeping a home, raising children, and traveling. I resigned myself to the fact that if it ever happened, it would be a long time coming, and I had just better be patient and hope. It had always been my dream to travel, and because of my love for classical music, dance, and art, it seemed like the most obvious leap to visit Europe to appreciate them. It would happen for me 21 years later. But, when it finally occurred, I embraced the experience with a verve that had been mounting for those 21 years. My first trip was a magical one, and I felt much like a kid in a candy store. I have experienced many trips since that first one, 10 years ago, and now find myself in the plum position of returning to Paris. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I would go to Paris at all, much less return to Paris. I haven’t lost that "kid in a candy store" reaction and always maintain a deep appreciation of an experience that is ever enriching. I consider myself lucky to be able to continue to do so.

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About the Writer

pabrams52
pabrams52
Los Angeles, United States

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