Artsy Old-Time Florida in Cedar Key

Cedar Key is small laid-back island west of Gainesville, Florida, 3 miles out into the Gulf of Mexico at the end of Route 24. This is a relaxed place filled with funky art galleries and gift shops. There is a small beach and some fun restaurants. If you're lucky, you'll see some of the wilder residents, like pelicans, dolphins, and horseshoe crabs.

Quick Tips:

Pick up a Cedar Key Beacon for a mere .50. The weekly paper is new on Thursdays, and most shops sell copies at the cash register.

Dock Street has most of the restaurants, including the Seabreeze, The Depot, The Captain's Table, and Froggy's which all have great views of the Gulf of Mexico. In addition to watching pleasure boats, sailboats, fishing boats and kayaks leave the boat launch at the end of the street, you will also see plenty of pelicans and cormorants flying around, and possibly some dolphins. Most all of the restaurants feature the local speciality, clam strips. Cedar Key has the largest commercial clam farms in the nation.

Second street features plenty of local artist galleries and shops. The Cedar Keyhole is a cooperative of local artists, and the person at the register probably has work for sale in the shop, so you may want to ask them to autograph your work. Most items are relatively inexpensive. Down the block and to the right (behind the bank) is another small gallery with higher-end items that are lovely to see. This gallery features more paintings and wall art. A short walk two blocks to Dock Street brings you back to the water and a few other gift shops between the restaurants.

Just past the Seabreeze and the boat launch you will see a few tour boats, and just beyond, the public park.

The park is being updated with new playground equipment, restrooms and changing rooms. There is a small crescent shaped public beach where you can put your toes in the gulf. The water is usually a murky brown here. It's a fine beach if you want to say you've been in the ocean, but if a day on the beach is what you're seeking, you would be better served by traveling two hours south to the Tampa area beaches for white sand and blue water.

Best Way To Get Around:

Park the car downtown at the lot near the city park. From there, you have an easy walking loop of about 2 miles to circle the downtown and see the galleries, shops, and restaurants. You can also rent a golf cart if you plan to explore farther out, such as going out to the airport or the state museum.

You will need a car to get out to the island. Be sure you fill up with gas in Gainesville or Dunnellon before heading out on Route 24. There are just a couple gas stations at or near the island, and prices tend to be higher.

The Seabreeze dominates the skyline of Cedar Key along Dock Street. One corner of the building has a tower that resembles a lighthouse, so it is easy to spot. The entrance is at ground level, and the bar is located on that floor. The main dining room, however, is on the second floor, which can be reached by either stairs or elevator. The decor suits the atmosphere prevalent on Dock Street, with weathered wood, sailing and fishing artifacts, and nets that have probably had a former life in the Gulf. The real attraction is the floor-to-ceiling windows on three sides of the dining room, affording a fabulous view of Gulf and Atsena Otsie Key. You will certainly see local fishermen bringing in their catch and usually a few sailboats. Pelicans often perch on the roof and fly close by the windows. You may even be lucky enough to watch dolphins play as you dine.

The food features local seafood, particularly the clams, which are farm-raised in the area. There are also non-seafood entries, such as steaks and sandwiches. The best desert is key lime pie. The Seabreeze definitely gives a true island experience.

Every year in mid-April, the tiny population of Cedar Key swells with pride and excitement for the Arts Festival. The many local artists flood the galleries, and other artists bring their wares to a myriad of booths set up on the main streets of downtown. Come prepared to walk, as you won't get near Dock Street with a car. The atmosphere is fun and festive, and the artwork ranges from gallery quality to just fun and funky.

Just about 90 minutes south of Cedar Key is Homossassa State Park, home to the endangered manatees. It originally began as a private enterprise, but is now run by the state. This is your best opportunity to get an up close look at manatees, or sea cows. They resemble small whales, but are actually related to the elephant. These incredibly gentle creatures have no natural enemies, but their curiousity and slow speed means that they often have enounters with the problems of man, getting injured by boat propellers and underwater debris.

After parking in the front lot, walk through the headquarters building to either the boat dock or the tram station. Either one will take you through a bit of a wilderness ride to the real park entrance where you will purchase tickets. After receiving the hand stamp, head off to your left to see the manatees.

If you arrive in time to see a feeding, try to sit as low as possible on the bleachers and near the front. You will be viewing the manatees here from above the water, and it is difficult (especially for children) to see beyond the first couple rows of the bleachers. Don't worry about being splashed as the manatees move very slowly. You will also see some mullet fish jumping out of the water as you wait.

Next, continue on the path to the floating observation deck. You can see the manatees, and the feeding show, from the top deck. Also, walk down the steps to the lower level to see the manatees and plenty of other fish from below the water.

Continue on the path to the rest of the zoo exhibits. There are about two dozen open air exhibits featuring mostly Florida native animals. There are portions of the path that do not have much shade, so if you are visiting in the summer heat, be sure you wear a hat and carry your own water. The bird exhibits are particularly extensive, including some bald eagles and a large collection of flamingos.

The entire loop takes about two hours at a leisurely pace. In addition to seeing the rare manatees in their natural habitat, this is a good small zoo for young children short on attention spans and stamina.