Ancient Yazd: Pearl of the Desert

Overview

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A barren plain in the heart of the Kevir Desert between the great mountains of Dasht-é Kevir and Dasht-é Lut is a curious place to build a city, but its position as a key pass on the old Silk Road to China meant that this was exactly what founders of Yazd had to do.The story of the technical breakthroughs that allowed these pioneers to make the desert bloom is told in the fascinating Yazd Water Museum, while the results of their endeavours are still to be seen to this day on the streets of the old city.The story of their day to day lives is retold in a pleasant little ethnographical museum at the Zendan-é Eskandar (Alexander`s Prison...Read More

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Yazd Old City

Attraction | "Old City"

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The old city of Yazd is believed to be the second oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. It consists of a vast mass of adobe (clay and straw) houses interwoven with a labyrinthine network of thin alleyways called kuchés and getting lost amongst these is an unmissable part of the Yazd experience.Most historians place the foundation of the old city in the reign of Sassanid Dynasty (226–650AD) ruler Yazdegerd I (r.399-420AD) and while Yazd may now have developed into a prosperous and industrialised metropolis the old city at its heart has become home to the urban poor meaning that little has changed structurally in the 1,600 years since it was built. The rows of...Read More

The old city of Yazd is believed to be the second oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. It consists of a vast mass of adobe (clay and straw) houses interwoven with a labyrinthine network of thin alleyways called kuchés and getting lost amongst these is an unmissable part of the Yazd experience.

Most historians place the foundation of the old city in the reign of Sassanid Dynasty (226–650AD) ruler Yazdegerd I (r.399-420AD) and while Yazd may now have developed into a prosperous and industrialised metropolis the old city at its heart has become home to the urban poor meaning that little has changed structurally in the 1,600 years since it was built. The rows of dull sun-dried mud-brick houses are interrupted only by the occasional brightly tiled mosque and high above them all tower the ever present badgir (wind-catchers). These massive towers capture even the slightest of breezes and funnel them down into the living quarters below as an early and much more environmentally friendly form of air-conditioning. If you ask around politely, you should find someone willing to let you into their home where you can truly experience the effectiveness of these in action.

While wandering the kuchés keep an eye out for the traditional knockers on the heavy wooden doors. As you will see there are two knockers, one for use by women, and a long-dangly knocker for use by men the differing sounds produced by the differently shaped knockers would alert the occupant as to who should go and answer the door. The most famous of the old city’s kuchés is known as ashti-konoon (make-up) because if two locals fell-out they were set-off from opposite ends of this long winding alley and when they met in the middle the two would literally have to kiss and make-up if they hoped to pass each other in its narrow confines. This is therefore the perfect place to get up-close and personal with the locals. You will receive many invites to tea and you should take-up as many of these as your bladder will hold, to fully experience the resident’s life-style.

Just wandering the atmospheric kuchés of the old city is the highlight of any visit Yazd and I found myself drawn back here time and time again to soak up the sights and sound of this ancient way of life. I would strongly urge you to do the same, and yes you will get lost but don’t worry as some friendly local will always pop-up to lead you back to the right path or to somewhere far more interesting.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 17, 2006

Yazd Old City

Yazd, Iran

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Yazd Water Museum

Attraction

Quote:

Just off of Meidûn-é Amîr Chakmâgh is an old building illuminated by an enormous flashing neon sign that in any other country would be advertising a tacky night-club or run-down casino but here in Yazd it is calling your attention to the equally thrilling sounding Yazd Water Museum.Building a city in the desert was never going to be easy but the 5th century workmen who set-about laying the foundations succeeded through hard-work and ingenuity the story of which is retold in this former merchant’s house. A series of exhibits of ancient tools and machinery, all well labelled in English, relate the design and construction of the engineering marvel that allowed the dessert to bloom. The...Read More

Just off of Meidûn-é Amîr Chakmâgh is an old building illuminated by an enormous flashing neon sign that in any other country would be advertising a tacky night-club or run-down casino but here in Yazd it is calling your attention to the equally thrilling sounding Yazd Water Museum.

Building a city in the desert was never going to be easy but the 5th century workmen who set-about laying the foundations succeeded through hard-work and ingenuity the story of which is retold in this former merchant’s house. A series of exhibits of ancient tools and machinery, all well labelled in English, relate the design and construction of the engineering marvel that allowed the dessert to bloom. The idea is simple you find an underground source of water that is higher then where you are, pretty easy on a plain surrounded by two of the country’s tallest mountains, and then you dig a long underground tunnel to channel it to you. Simple the idea may be but the implementation of it here in ancient Persia was revolutionary and would influence city design across the Arab world from Morocco to China for centuries to come.

The channels, called qanats, are dug so that they are just large enough for a worker to crawl through and they stretch at a slight angle for up to 45km to reach their water source. These qanats are dotted with shafts to the surface that are dug every 20 to 30 meters for ventilation and maintenance access. Upon reaching Yazd the qanats split into smaller channels called kariz that distribute the water to various locations throughout the old city. These are buried deep below the city to prevent the water from becoming contaminated. An outlet from one of these kariz can be seen in the basement of the museum another can be seen below Masjed-é Jame' (Friday Mosque) that is used for ritual ablutions.

As the city continued to grow the channels were found to be inadequate to supply the growing water needs of the community and so rich merchants and officials began to dig large subterranean reservoirs called ab anbar in their gardens. These could hold up to 50 cubic meters of water, they would be filled from the kariz every couple of weeks, and cleaned once a year. The idea caught on and soon public ab anbar were built at key locations within the old city. Some of these can still be seen, from the outside they are large mud brick domes with multiple badgir (wind-catchers) rising up from them to funnel down the slightest of breezes to help cool the water. The system works surprisingly well and if you descend the long staircase to the entrance of one you will see just how cool it is inside.

The simple museum may not sound thrilling but for just 10,000 rials it allows you to fully appreciate everything you see in Yazd from the old city to the pomegranate and apricot plantations that dot its outskirt.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 17, 2006

Yazd Water Museum
Amir Chakhmagh sq.
Yazd, Iran

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Zendan-e Eskandar (Alexander`s Prison)

Attraction

Quote:

Legends of the old city’s foundation go back all the way to the time of the equally legendary Macedonian conqueror Alexander the Great (r.330-323BC) and while serious historian put the city’s origins much later than that, around the 4th century AD, we wouldn’t want to let it interfere with a good story or indeed a good tourist trap.A deep, circular, brick-lined pit almost 30m in diameter resembling an ancient dungeon found at the heart of the old city bears the name Zendan-e Eskandar (Alexander`s Prison). It is alleged by some to have been built by Alex to hold his captives during his conquest of Persia and alleged by others to have been built by the Persians to hold the capt...Read More

Legends of the old city’s foundation go back all the way to the time of the equally legendary Macedonian conqueror Alexander the Great (r.330-323BC) and while serious historian put the city’s origins much later than that, around the 4th century AD, we wouldn’t want to let it interfere with a good story or indeed a good tourist trap.

A deep, circular, brick-lined pit almost 30m in diameter resembling an ancient dungeon found at the heart of the old city bears the name Zendan-e Eskandar (Alexander`s Prison). It is alleged by some to have been built by Alex to hold his captives during his conquest of Persia and alleged by others to have been built by the Persians to hold the captive Alex himself. Whatever the true story the building itself is almost certainly a later construction lets say somewhere around the 4th century AD.

The original purpose of the building is unknown but it now serves as an Ethnographic Museum entrance 10,000 rials. Inside you can see an excellent scale model of the old city and a collection of dusty poorly labelled archaeological artefacts that were dug up around the city. What really brings the museum to life however is the staff of traditionally trained artisans who are on hand to show-off their skills by working the old wood-framed looms and throwing clay pots to demonstrate the crafts that made the city famous throughout Persia and along the old Silk Road to China.

Your entrance ticket to the museum also gives you access to the neighbouring Maghbareh-ye Davazdah Emam (Shrine of the Twelve Imams) and if you ask the attendant he will lead you across the road and unlock the door for you. This is a Seljukid Dynasty (1037–1187) funerary mosque where exactly none of the Shi’ites most holy saints are buried but inside the dusty and yet to be fully restored interior you will see their names inscribed on the walls in finely-decorative Kuffic script.

This little museum has more gift shops than actual exhibits, selling the works of the artisans who are trained in the small school on site, which has lead this place to be dismissed by some visitors as a tacky tourist trap but personally I was glad to see traditional crafts being kept alive and enjoyed seeing the artisans in action.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 17, 2006

Zendan-e Eskandar (Alexander`s Prison)
Old City, Yazd
Yazd, Iran

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Kahn Bazaar/King's Bazaar

Hotel | "Bāzār-é Khan (King’s Bazaar)"

Quote:

Yazd grew up from a caravanesi on a key crossroad of the ancient Silk Road to China. Marco Polo passed through here in 1272 and saw a prosperous community of intelligent, industrious, and talented people that he called "the noble city." Trade continues to be important for the city to this day and the bazaar is still the beating heart of the city.Bāzār-é Khan (King's Bazaar) is a massive adobe building just off Meidūn-é Amīr Chakmāgh in the centre of the city and within its miles of unmarked high-arched corridors you will soon get hopelessly lost as you discover all manner of goods for sale from the opulent ostentation of the goldsmith’s bazaar and the exotic sme...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 17, 2006

Kahn Bazaar/King's Bazaar

Yazd, Iran

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Yazd Journals

Ancient Yazd: Pearl of the Desert