Escape to Antigua

Curtain Bluff feels more like a private club than a resort, and at certain times of the year, it almost is one (it is extremely difficult to get in around Christmas and spring break, as families who have been going there for anywhere from 10 to 40+ years book for the next year as they are leaving and get priority). It is a very high-end resort with a limited number of rooms that takes all-inclusive to the extreme. Once you check in, leave your wallets in your room. Anything, sailing, water skiing, yoga classes, meals and drinks at the beach bar or at the main dining room, is included.

Tucked away on a peninsula near the village of Old Road, Curtain Bluff creates its own little world. It has beaches on either side, one dubbed the "rough beach" for its hurricane-shaped reefs and decent-sized waves, and the other the "bay beach," where there is a beach bar, beach chairs with thatched umbrellas, sail boats, a dock, and almost any water sport you could be interested in.

Lunch is served at the beach bar and is very casual, with guests eating in beach cover-ups and flip-flops or bare feet. On Wednesdays there is a steel drum band accompanying lunch.

In the evenings, formal dinner is served in the main dining room, with food and a wine list that has been featured in Gourmet magazine. Ask for a tour of the wine cellar at dinner and one of the sommeliers will happily bring you down to see their famous wine collection. Women wear skirts or dresses and men are in sport coats, tie optional, but those who have been going for years remember when a tie was mandatory and often still wear one.

The owners of Curtain Bluff, Howard and Shelley, own a dramatic Bluff House at the top of the resort. They have all their guests up to the house for a catered cocktail party once a week, usually on Fridays, to watch the sunset over the ocean. This is usually a highlight of the trip.

Curtain Bluff is really known for its tennis program, with five courts that can be lit up at night, plus great pros and organized round robins. There is even one semi-outdoor squash court.

There are a few special weeks a year in addition to Christmas and spring break. Tennis Week at Curtain Bluff and Antigua Sailing Week are both great fun.

Children under the age of 12 are not allowed for the month of February, but especially around the school holidays there are lots of children and teenagers, with a kid's camp for the very young children.

The service here is absolutely impeccable, with most of the staff returning every year and greeting guests by name as they arrive, as they often are old friends. The service is what sets this place apart.

St. John's is the main port and capital city of Antigua. There is a lot of shopping, dining, and historical attractions to see, and it is certainly worth spending a day walking around. The cathedral is beautiful and dominates the landscape. The Museum of Antigua and Barbuda has good exhibitions on the early history of the island.

For those looking for a little local flavor, check out the farmer's market on Friday and Saturday morning, with lots of fresh fruits and even some crafts. This is my favorite thing to go see in St. John's.

Shirley Heights on a Sunday afternoon is an experience that is not to be missed in Antigua. With steel drum and reggae bands playing from the late afternoon to sunset, accompanied by a local barbecue and rum punch, there is no better way to spend the evening. A mix of tourists and locals brings flavor.

Shirley Heights overlooks historic English Harbour, and combining an afternoon walk around the area with a sunset at Shirley Heights is a welcome alternative to an afternoon at the beach or your resort. Most resorts can arrange transportation, and some even offer a shuttle over there every Sunday.