Rick's Guide to a New York City Thanksgiving

I worked in New York from 1979 to 1991, and when our son was little, we got in the habit of coming into town to see the Macy's Thanksgiving Day parade. We'd drive in, park under the building I worked at (50th and Broadway), and watch the parade from the steps of the building. It was a nice wide area, and the balloons always danced around in the crosswinds. And since I worked in that building, it was handy to be able to come inside and use the bathroom (or warm up on a cold morning).

But since we've moved away from the city, getting to the parade has become more of a experience. This is the kind of schedule we've kept for the past few years:

WEDNESDAY

1PM Start driving to New York

5PM Arrive at hotel and check in

6PM Hustle over to FAO Schwarz before the 7PM closing

7PM Watch the balloon inflation

10PM Dinner at Stage Deli (7th Avenue)

THURSDAY (Thanksgiving Day)

7AM Leave hotel to get to viewing spot

9AM Parade begins

11AM Parade ends

Noon Back to hotel to change and check out

1PM Dinner at favorite restaurant

4PM Radio City Music Hall Christmas Spectacular

7pm Drive home

The Macy's parade is a unique American experience. Where else can you see almost 2 MILLION PEOPLE in one day, all in a good mood?

And even on Thanksgiving 2001, after the 9/11 attacks, we went to the parade. New York is in our blood, and we just felt it was important to be there. And the celebration was muted, to be sure, but the crowd was bigger than ever. People needed the parade. They needed to smile.

After the parade, we took a cab downtown to Ground Zero. There were thousands of people there, on Thanksgiving, just 10 weeks after 9/11.

The World Trade Towers had a special Thanksgiving meaning for us. That's where we had our Thanksgiving dinner the previous year (2000).

Quick Tips:

A word about hotels: We used to stay at The Essex House, a terrific old place on Central Park South. It looks right out over Central Park and the rooms are spacious (but not cheap). When we stayed there, we'd watch the parade from just north of Columbus Circle (the intersection of Central Park South and Broadway), just a couple blocks from the hotel.

One time we stayed at the Novotel, Broadway at 51st Street. We tried watching from their large balcony, about five or six stories up, but frankly we didn't like looking DOWN at the balloons. But we did see one funny signt (or tragic, depending on your age). The Barney Balloon got hung up on the lamps illuminating a billboard across from the Novotel. I guess the balloon was too damaged to continue, and since the parade keeps a very tight schedule, they needed to get it off the street. So the balloon handlers had to come out with pocket knives and stab the balloon to release the helium (so the balloon could be rolled up and pushed off to the side of the street). All the parents in the crowd applauded wildly—Barney finally got his! But a lot of little kids cried bitter tears—they KILLED Barney.

We were in the laughing section, but had to repay our karmic debt a few years later when we were actually recruited to be balloon handlers in the Macy's Parade, assigned to Barney!

Wednesday Night:

If you want to see the balloon inflation (a real treat, and it's FREE), you'll need to get over the staging area between 3pm and 8pm (or so). You can enter the inflation area at 77th Street and Columbus Avenue, walk east along 77th Street past the balloons, turn north on Central Park West, and then walk west along 81st Street to see the rest of the balloons.

If you get there early, you'll see the crew attaching the long hoses to the balloons, and inflating them one chamber at a time. The balloons are held down by huge nets secured by sand bags. If you get there late, the inflation will be complete, but it's a major treat to get that close to the giant balloons.

They'll close the entrance at about 9pm, so it's best to get there early if you want to linger a bit and see everything.

Best Way To Get Around:

Thursday:

People start getting to their favorite spots at 6am or earlier, so you'll want to do the same.

The parade starts at 9am at 77th Street and Central Park West (CPW), proceeds down CPW to Columbus Circle, and then goes down Broadway to 34th Street (in front of Macy's). All the bands, singing groups, dancers, and celebrities perform for the cameras in front of Macy's (that's the part you see on television), although the marching bands are playing throughout the whole parade.

Our favorite spots are between 50th Street and 70th Street. We learned some time ago to bring a lightweight step ladder to the parade. Our little son would sit on the top, and his mother and I would stand on the lower rungs. It was a great way to see the parade without necessarily standing right in front.

People used to laugh at us, taking a step ladder into the elevator of The Essex House—until we told them what it was for!

New York in November can be biting a** cold, so dress accordingly. Your toes WILL freeze because you're standing still. We always take a couples packages of those little chemical hand warmers that you can get at sporting goods stores.

The balloons, of course, are the best. But the marching bands are always amazing. And the balloons handlers, band members, dancers, clowns, and cheerleaders always respond to the crowd. So cheer away, and remember that clapping keeps your hands warm!

Our family tradition is to come into the city for Thanksgiving, watch the parade, see a show, have dinner, and head on home. This year we were balloon handlers in the parade, and wanted to stay at a place that would accomodate all five of us. The Doubletree Times Square fit the bill, with comfort and style. Great location, nice big rooms (ours had two double beds and a king-sized sofa bed). Not cheap, mind you, but exactly what we needed (finding a room for five in New York is virtually impossible). I liked it so much that I've already booked a room for Thanksgiving 2006!

And, of course, we ALWAYS go see the Radio City Music Hall Christmas Spectacular. Where else in the world can you sit for 90 minutes with an absolutely STUPID GRIN on your face! Expensive (for orchestra seats), but worth every penny! See Separate Review.

For Thanksgiving Dinner, over the years, we've done Tavern on The Green a number of times. While the ambience can't be beat, the dinner is awfully expensive (something like $140 per person in the main room) last time we were there.

In 2004, we had a terrific dinner at The Sea Grill, in Rockefeller Plaza. It was wonderful to have our dinner and be entertained by the skaters on the Rockefeller Center Ice Rink!

Our favorite Thanksgiving Restaurant happens to be our favorite New York City restaurant - Mesa Grill (about $60 per person, without drinks). See my review for The Mesa Grill.

And please don't hesitate to drop me a line with your own observations about this journal/review. I like to see if my advice has value. email me at rickhowe@aol.com

For Thanksgiving, 2005, after a long walk down Broadway (we were balloon handlers in the Macy's Parade) on Thanksgiving, we had a stupendous dinner at Mesa Grill. Bobby Flay's signature restaurant has always been a favorite, but living out-of-town we don't get there as often as we'd like. But when we were looking for a place for Thanksgiving, The Mesa Grill was our first choice. MUCH less expensive than the tourist traps (like Tavern on the Green), and MUCH, MUCH better! You won't go wrong at the Mesa Grill.

I found our menu from Mesa Grill, Thanksgiving 2005, and thought I'd share it with you. WARNING - DROOL ALERT. Please protect your keyboard with an appropriate covering . . .

APPETIZERS (between the five of us, we tried ALL of them!)

- Roasted Rumpkin Soup with Pomegranate-Pecan Relish & Smoked Chile Crema.

- Cornmeal Crusted Oysters with Mango-Habanero Hot Sauce & American Cavier.

- Caramelized Granny Smith Apple & Black Walnut Salad with Watercress, Maytag Blue Cheese & Spiced Orange Vinaigrette.

- Crab & Salmon Griddle Cake with Green Onion Creme Fraiche, Smoked Salmon & Pickled Red Onions.

ENTREES (We also had each of these!)

- Roast Turkey with Mustard-Maple Glaze, Toasted Cornbread & Wild Rice Stuffing, Cranberry-Tangerine Relish, Horseradish-Black Pepper Mashed Potatoes and Smoked Chile Gravy.

- Roasted Venizon with Crushed Cranberry-Ancho Chile Sauce served with Sweet Potato Gratin & Creamed Kale.

- Hot Smoked Salmon on Smoked Yellow Pepper Grits with Crawfish and Roasted Green Chile Sauce and Spinach.

- Romegranate-Black Pepper Glazed Center Cut Pork Chop with Wild Rice Tamale with Sage Butter and Brussels Sprouts with Pomegranates & Pecans.

By the way, most New York restaurants don't open their reservation book until about one month before the date. So you technically can't make your Thanksgiving Dinner reservation until October 23 or thereabouts. BUT TRY CALLING DURING THE FIRST WEEK OF OCTOBER in case the dining manager decides "one month" means open up all of November on October 1 (it happened to me one year), and then call back each week. If nothing else, the reservation manager will know your name!

And please don't hesitate to drop me a line with your own observations about this journal/review. I like to see if my advice has value. Email me at rickhowe@aol.com.

For our 2006 Thanksgiving Dinner we chose The Boathouse at Central Park. We chose wisely. After a long march in the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade (we were once again balloon handlers), we were tired and hungry. Took a taxi to the corner of 5th Avenue and 72nd St. a short walk into the park, along the main drive, took us to the entrance to one of the most beautiful restaurants we've even been to.

It's right on the lake, with views of the surrounding buildings. While we had dinner, a pair of swans were gliding across the water right outside the large windows.

The big city restaurant reviewers tend to look down their collective noses at The Boathouse. They say the food is mediocre, and can't compare to the view.

I'll agree that the view was spectacular, but I'll add that the food was spectacular as well. In fact, The Boathouse may have just replaced Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill as our favorite Thanksgiving Day Dinner place.

With a price fixed menu ($60 per person, on the low side (!!!!) for top echelon New York Thanksgiving Day restaurants, we had a lovely, relaxed and delicious dinner ... and WHAT A VIEW!

OK - it's drool time. Here is the 2006 Thanksgiving Menu. So get out your napkins kids:

APPETIZERS:

Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes with marinated cucumbers and caper Remoulade sauce (we're from Maryland, and four of us got the crab cakes and pronounced them DELICIOUS!)

Whole Wheat Farfalle and Roasted Butternut Squash Batons; smoked bacon lardoons, shaved Brussels sprouts with cauliflower cream sauce (I got this, and it was AMAZING).

Atlantic Salmon and Long Island Oyster Tartar; sevruga caviar, creme fraiche, first press olive oil and lemon zest, potato gaurfrette.

Hudson Valley Foie Gras Terrine; fig compote and brioche toast points

Boathouse Salad; beefstake tomatoes, imported feta cheese, kalamata olives, shaved shallots and olive vinaigrette.

Baby Red and Green Oak Salad; rye croutons, craisins, smoked almonds, grapefruit segments and citrus dressing.

ENTREES:

Traditional Turkey Dinner (lip-smacking good)

Prime Rib of Beef (I cheated - I got an end cut. Oh My God!), scallion mashed yukon gold potatoes, asparagus and marinated tomatoes

Atlantic Salmon and Crispy Artichoke (so light, said one in our party, that it just melted in her mouth), butter lettuce and pearl onions with carrot dill sauce

Wild Striped Bass with Chive Sour Cream Sauce, fingerling potatoes, endive leaf, crimini mushrooms

Moroccan Spiced Cod Fish

Rare Grilled Yellow Fin Tuna, caponata and escarole with basil oil

Berkshire Pork Loin Medallions, sauerkraut and macintosh apples with caraway

Filet of Beef with Porcini Cream Sauce, potato onion cake

DESSERT

Frozen Meyer Lemon Mousse, seasonal citrus Compote, Tarragon Gelee

Maple Pannacotta, Cranberry-Quince Compote and Brown Sugar Shortbreat

Warm Chocolate Truffle Cake, mixed berry compote and whipped cream (WONDERFUL!)

Pumpkin Pie, spiced pumpkin seeds, whipped cream and caramel sauce (OUTSTANDING!)

Apple Crisp, apple cider reduction, cinnamon ice cream

Caramel-Walnut Cheesecake, chocolate sauce, whipped cream.

And they make a dyno-mite Martini!

Part of our Macy's Thanksgiving tradition has been going to the Radio City Music Hall Christmas Spectacular. We've probably seen it six or seven times over the years. For awhile we would see the Broadway-style musical version of "A Christmas Carol" at the theater at Madison Square Garden. But they've discontinued that in recent years.

The Radio City Christmas Spectacular is just as magical as it could be. From the moment you walk into that astounding Art Deco palace, and the twin Wurlitzer organs roll out from behind their curtains, the place just embraces you.

Then the show begins, and the orchestra rises up on the motorized stage, and then the entire orchestra rolls back to the rear of the stage, and rises again. AMAZING!

When Santa comes out, the kids go crazy. The Rockets live up to their reputation, including the classic March of the Wooden Soldiers. Followed by ice-skating on the stage (!!!) to the tunes of Christmas in New York. The "Santa's Gonna Rock and Roll" (corny but wonderful!) The Nutcracker Suite, Rag Dolls, The Living Nativity. I remember every minute (even though last year we decided to see The Lion King instead...)

Trust me, you'll sit there with a stupid grin on your face for 90 minutes.

There are no "bad" seats in Radio City Music Hall, but front orchestra are the best. However, with ticket prices for those seats now approaching $200, you might want to consider sitting back a bit. To my knowledge, Radio City Christmas Show seats have never been discounted. But sometimes, you'll catch a good buy on ebay, if you pay attention to the dates.

My son is now a little old for the Christmas show, but I suspect it won't be too long before we'll be able to take our grandchildren to this classic New York Christmas tradition.

In early 2004, my wife met a gal who worked at Macy's corporate offices. They got to talking, and my wife proclaimed our family's love of the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade. Her response was, "I have an offer you CAN'T refuse!"

At that point, our family evolved from parade fans to parade participants. We filled out the paperwork, and soon learned that we would be handling the "Barney" balloon. This was somewhat of a karmic reaction to an incident a few years before when the Barney balloon had to be removed from the parade, with the help of knife-wielding officials. There were those in the crowd who cried (mostly the kids), and those who cheered (mostly the parents, who had been subjected to "I love you, You love me" for months on end. We were in the cheering section.

A few years later we finally had to pay our karmic debt. Handling the ropes on the Barney balloon!

We did have to change our usual routine. Instead of staying at the Essex House (on Central Park South), we needed something closer to parade headquarters at the New Yorker Hotel on 8th Avenue and 34th Street.

We made the mistake of getting a "suite" at the New Yorker. It was somewhat of a nostalgic trip, inasmuch as I had an office in the same building about 10 years prior. But the spacious office floor bore no resemblance to the cramped hotel rooms. It was cheap, to be sure, but we'll not go back.

At 6am on Thanksgiving morning we rode the elevator to the 2nd floor dressing area (at least it was convenient getting there), to pick up our costumes.

We hopped on the bus to the staging area at 77th Street and waited for our captain to come give us our assignments. At about 8:45am the crew came and starting taking off the nets, leaving us to hold on to Barney's ropes. We stepped off about 30 minutes later and started the long walk down the parade route.

Barney was well-behaved the entire time, and we even got him to dance a bit for the crowds (the handlers on the left pulled their ropes, and then the handlers on the right pulled their ropes). Some folks even found a way to move Barney's hand!

Seeing the looks on the kids' faces as we passed was priceless! We walked in front of nearly 2 million smiling faces that morning, and that amount of positive energy can keep you going for a long time.

But I couldn't exactly bring myself to sing that song...

Barney did fine until we got down to Macy's and turned West on 34th Street. At that point, we were walking into the wind, and Barney decided he wanted to go east towards Long Island! We finally got him under control, and turned back north onto 8th Avenue (in front of the New Yorker Hotel). Inch by inch we wound our plastic rope holders (called "bones") down to bring the big guy to the ground. Then some of us unzipped the helium pockets, and the lighter than air gas lived up to it's reputation, and dissipated into the morning air.

We had to fold Barney lengthwise, and roll him into an enormous laundry cart on wheels, at which point his parade was over and he was trucked back to New Jersey.

A brief stop at the Headquarters to turn in our jumpsuits, and we went on with our day. Dinner at The Sea Grill in Rockefeller Center, and home.

Last year, we were promoted to Chicken Little. Chicken was a bit less bulky than Barney, but taller. A windier day (there was one accident when the "M&Ms" balloon hit a lamp post and injured a spectator) meant a lot more "trimming" of the ropes (note that I learned the lingo in my second year!).

But Chicken Little was a blast, and we were a lot more comfortable. Inasmuch as I have a REALLY loud voice, I was appointed chief cheerleader for the group. Every time we stopped to wait to the rest of the parade, I got to lead the group in a sort of spastic version of The Chicken Dance!

But once again, 2 million pairs of eyes were on us, all smiling, all shouting "Chicken LITTLE Chicken LITTLE." It's a unique experience, and one that we'll repeat as long as we're invited.

Should you ever get the opportunity to serve as a balloon handlers in the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade, consider it HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!