Tales of the Alhambra

A July 2006 trip to Granada by girasol

Generalife Gardens, AlhambraMore Photos

"I want to live in Granada, if only to hear the bell of La Vela, to lull me off to sleep."

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Granada, ancient quarter
Granada is home to the Alhambra, an exquisite 13th-century palace and fortress that served the Andalusian Nasrid monarchs as a "paradise on earth." Enter, and you'll immediately understand why. The halls and chambers of the royal residence, known as the Palacios Nazaries, as well as the Generalife gardens, are astonishingly beautiful and at times are seemingly modern in their art. Take your time, every single moment is well worthwhile. And while in Granada, don't pass up the chance to also visit the Albaicin, the ancient quarter where a thriving community of artists, students, and many different cultures lie within the narrow, medieval streets. Stop at the Convento de Santa Catalina that faces the Rio Darro, ring the bell, and one of the nuns will come to the door to sell you candy! With that in hand, work your way up the winding streets to the Mirador de San Nicolas. From here you'll have a birdseye view of the Alhambra and Granada. Wander everywhere, then treat yourself to a jasmine tea in one of the Albaicin's "teteria"s. At the end of the day, join the active nightlife in the areas around the university, Campo del Principe, Plaza Nueva, or the Paseo de los Tristes that winds alongside the river, just below the Alhambra. Or better yet, splurge a little and get a room with a terrace that faces the Alhambra hill, then sit outside in the evening and enjoy the strains of classical Spanish music floating down from the beautifully illuminated palace. Unforgettable!

Quick Tips:

Reserve your tickets in advance, since there are only a limited number of visitors allowed each day, in separate morning and afternoon sessions. Your hotel can make the reservations for you, or else try the Alhambra's online advance sales website. If you're there in June, checkout the classical music festival that takes place in the city every year at that time, you may be able to attend a night concert on the Alhambra grounds.

If you must visit the Sacromonte cave houses, do so during daylight hours. Stay away from the flamenco spectacles at night unless you're prepared to be totally exploited. And skip the cathedral, it must be the ugliest and most poorly kept church in all of Spain. But if you have time, do definitely take a trip outside the city into the Sierra Nevada mountains and Las Alpujarras, it's an absolutely breathtaking and unique area.

Best Way To Get Around:

To get to the Alhambra from the city, take the Alhambrabus that leaves from Plaza Nueva to the Alhambra. The hike up the hill is quite steep and your energy would be better spent touring the buildings and grounds. Walk down to the city afterward and pass through the magnificent Puerta de la Justicia.

Granada has a modern and recently upgraded airport on the edge of the city. Flying is a great option if you're traveling from Madrid without a car. It'll save you 6 to 8 hours on a train or bus, and the Spanish airlines often have ultradiscount fares available on their websites.
Casa de los Migueletes is a very special, small hotel located on the edge of the Albaicin in Granada, just off the Plaza Nueva by the church of Santa Ana. The hotel was opened in 2003, the product of a lovely restoration of a medieval building in the ancient quarter. Inside is a serene courtyard around which are the galleries leading to the hotel rooms. Some of the rooms have terraces that face the Alhambra and the Albaicin. The terraces are a wonderful treat, and the rooms are beautifully decorated, with much obvious attention paid to details that provide charm and comfort. The staff is extremely attentive, friendly, and helpful. A generous buffet breakfast is served in a renovated wine cellar. If you want the atmosphere of old Granada without having to stay on the Alhambra hill or too far into the Albaicin, this is a perfect place. However, you should exercise caution and common sense when returning late at night. The hotel is located on a cobbled, side street that becomes rather isolated after dark. Also, beyond a certain hour (1am) the front door is locked, but there is always someone present at the front desk who will let you in.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by girasol on March 14, 2006

Casa de los Migueletes
Calle Benalua 11 Granada, Spain 18010
+34 (958) 210700

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