Adventures in Sydney

A stunning harbor setting, mild climate, and laid-back attitude combine to make Sydney one of my favorite cities in the world to visit. Although it is far, far away for U.S. visitors, it is well worth the long flight. It’s one of those places where I immediately felt comfortable, thanks to a common language and Aussie hospitality. And with a good map, it’s easy to navigate by either foot or public transportation.

Sydney is one of the world’s most well-balanced cities, offering cultural and outdoor opportunities in equal doses. You can spend a day at the beach and the night at the opera. Galleries, museums, cinema and live music all thrive here, while scenic national parks lie a short ride away.

Above all, the gregarious, outgoing Australian people make Sydney a worthy destination. This is a town that knows how to host a party and make visitors feel welcome. (The recent Olympics and Millennium celebrations and the annual Mardi Gras parade attest to this.) If it were closer, I’d visit Sydney every year.

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I was highly content with my choice of lodgings, the Sydney Marriott Hotel. In many respects, it seems a typical business class hotel. However, its location, reasonable tariff and comfortable rooms distinguish this property. The Marriott also offers a small rooftop pool that affords views of downtown and Sydney’s harbor. There is a minor workout room up there, too -- better gyms are within walking distance.

The Marriott is situated on College Avenue across from Hyde Park. Many rooms offer a view of this green gem that features the ANZAC War Memorial. Stroll through the park in the morning and inhale deeply as you pass beneath the boughs of eucalyptus. Continuing up College Avenue, the Australian Museum is just a short walk away. A subway stop located at the foot of the park makes it easy to get downtown, to Circular Quay, or to Central Station, where you can connect to trains that travel further afield. Also, the hotel stands in close proximity to the many restaurants of Oxford Street.

My double room was quiet and comfortable and included a well-stocked minibar, a good-sized bathroom and adequate space to lounge. The rate was A$215 per night in high season, a bit more than one might pay for less comfortable digs down Oxford Street but less than many of Sydney’s other business class hotels. And certainly affordable considering the current favorable exchange rate.

If most of your Australian trip is centered around the major cities, it’s unlikely you’ll encounter a kangaroo, koala, crocodile or platypus. So to get a sample of Australia’s unique fauna, I recommend a trip to Taronga Zoo, located on the north shore of Sydney Harbor. I’m a sucker for both zoos and boat rides, and I got to do both by buying a $A20 combination ferry/admission ticket at the Circular Quay on Sydney’s waterfront. (That’s pronounced "kee" for those of you not used to hanging around quays.) On the ferry ride, you’ll get great panoramic views of the skyline and those famous landmarks, the Harbor Bridge and the Sydney Opera House.

Upon arrival on the other side of the harbor, take the free bus to the entrance at the top of the hill. Working your way down, you’ll see favorites from Africa and Asia in addition to the native species. Be sure to get a photo of the giraffes with the harbor and Sydney skyline in the background. The reptile house displays a large selection of Australia’s many snake species. Of course, the highlight of the visit will be the koala encounter and kangaroo areas. Koalas move slowly and don’t do much when they do move. Still, who could resist their so-ugly-they’re-cute faces? The kangaroos, like most animals, are more likely to be active in the morning, so get there early if you want to see some hopping. You can even take a bit of Skippy home with you: roo skins are a popular souvenir sold in shops all across the country.

Sydney’s Royal Botanic Gardens quickly became my favorite place in the world to jog. It’s a very user-friendly park; signs even encourage visitors to "Please Walk on the Grass." The extensive paths lead from the entrance at Macquarie and Bent Streets through rose and herb gardens, past the Government House out to the landmark Sydney Opera House. While lapping around the Opera House, check out that famous sail-inspired roof. Up close, it’s even more richly textured than you imagined.

Next, reenter the Gardens continuing along the waterfront. You’ll come to Mrs. Macquarie’s Chair, the lookout from which the wife of an early governor would watch the harbor. Take a moment to savor the view from her vantage point. The trail then leads back towards town past the Andrew Charlton Pool. For $A2, you can refresh yourself in its saltwater.

Besides the Garden’s impressive collection of plants, you’ll also get to see ibises, magpies, mynas, cockatoos and other feathered friends. If you hear a loud "cheeping" commotion in the trees above, look up: there’s a good chance it’s a bevy of giant fruit bats making all that noise. They tend to be messy, so be careful you don’t get splattered on.

One of the most entertaining and inventive clothing stores I’ve ever visited is the Mambo surfwear shop on Oxford Street in Sydney’s Darlinghurst section. According to its website, this company was founded in 1984 on the "simple belief that almost any idiot could make a few dollars by sticking a picture on the back of a t-shirt and selling it." Mambo began --and continues to thrive -- as a cooperative of artists who applied their outrageous and funky art to t-shirts and boardshorts. Many of their early designs -- including the famous "farting dog" shirt -- have become collectible. Since its inception, Mambo has expanded into other product lines including: "loud" shirts (colorfully printed button-down short-sleeve tops); "goddess" (women’s) wear; caps; wallets; watches; books ("Still Life with Franchise" traces the evolution of Mambo designs); and incredible custom-painted surfboards. It’s easy to spend half an hour or more here just going through the fun and funny t-shirt designs. It is certainly more expensive than the surf shops down at Bondi Beach, but a Mambo shirt will be a much more cherished souvenir for years to come.

Sydney’s most famous beach, Bondi, is easily reached by taking the city bus from the foot of Oxford Street. If you’re planning a day at Bondi, I suggest an early start. You can enjoy breakfast at any of the cafes that line the street across from the beach. (There all seemed fairly comparable in price, quality and menu offerings, so just pick one that has open tables outdoors and admire the scenery going by.) These cafes are a good choice for lunch, too.

On Bondi’s long, crescent of white sand, certain areas are cordoned off for surfers, other for swimmers. Families, youths and gays seemed to each have their own areas, as well. Wherever your spot is, you’ll get to see the famous Aussie lifesavers at work. If you get tired of Bondi, take a walk over the hill at the south end to the prettier, more cloistered (and gayer) Tamarama Beach. The walkway, which takes you over cliffs and past some stunning rock formations, continues beyond Tamarama to Bronte and Coogee Beaches.

There are a couple of natural hazards that one needs to be aware of at Sydney’s beaches. First is the brilliant Australian sun. Skin cancer rates are high here, so be sure to use a strong (SPF15 or better) waterproof suntan lotion. The second danger is sharks. The day after my visit to Bondi, a hammerhead rammed a boogie boarder (who escaped without injury) at nearby Tamarama Beach. Bondi is netted, making attacks there uncommon. Still keep an eye out for suspicious fins.

If you’re a hiker (or "bushwalker" as they say here), then definitely take a day trip to explore the Blue Mountains. The scenery is terrific, and there’s nothing quite as refreshing as a few lung-fulls of cool, eucalyptus-scented mountain air. (The oil released by the eucalyptus leaves combines with mist to give the mountains their blue hue.)

You can take the train, as I did, from Sydney’s Central Station to Katoomba. The ride is dirt cheap (A$12 round trip, off peak), comfortable and easy. Sit in the upstairs section of the double-decker train car for a better view of the scenery.

Katoomba is touristy, but not without charm. On the 20-minute walk down Katoomba Street from the train station to the trailheads, you’ll pass some fun galleries and shops, nice cafes and convenience stores for those last-minute supplies.

Try the National Park Service information desk at Echo Point for hiking trail information. The nearby trailhead will take you down the Giant Stairway (860 steps), around the famous Three Sisters rock formation, and into the Jamison Valley. It’s a down-up hike, with the hard part, the ascent, towards the end of the trip, so budget your energy accordingly. And watch your footing on the way down; sections of the trail here are steep.

When you arrive on the valley floor, the trail levels out. Keep a sharp eye out for the elusive lyrebird, so called because its tail feathers when fanned out resemble a lyre. After hiking the valley floor for about a mile, you’ll arrive at the funicular railroad, which once transported ore from local mines, but now carries tourists in and out of the valley. You can continue beyond this point to see the mine and the site of a landslide, or if you’ve had it with hiking, you can hop on the tram. A better option is to take the Furber Steps up out of the valley. This trail offers some impressive views of the Katoomba Falls that you’d otherwise miss.

When you reach the top of the steps, you can connect with the Prince Henry Cliff Walk, which leads back to the trailhead at Echo Point. Along the way, there are several lookouts that provide stunning views of the Three Sisters and offer perspective on the awesome expanse of this valley.

The entire hike, which I’d rate as moderately strenuous, takes about three hours to complete. Once back at Echo Point, you can return to the station via Katoomba or Lurline Streets.

During the summer months, the mountains can get crowded on weekends. You’ll have more room in town and on the trails if you visit mid-week. If you have an extra day and want to do more hiking, other trails originate in nearby Leura and Wentworth. And a note on the weather: if it is cloudy or raining in Sydney, it is probably worse up here at 3,000 feet. Wait for a sunny day to visit.

You can find paintings and other crafts by indigenous Australians for sale in galleries and shops throughout Australia. But before you buy anything, I suggest a visit to the Yiribana Gallery in the Art Gallery of New South Wales (on Art Gallery Road in the Domain) to learn the history of Aboriginal Art and see works by some of its major practitioners. Arriving for the 11 a.m. gallery talk will enrich the experience. For example, you’ll discover that many of the large graphic paintings are stylized maps depicting paths that link sacred sites. And bright star-shaped blotches are actually representations of bat droppings. The Aboriginal Australia area of the Australian Museum (on College Street across from Hyde Park) gives even further insights into the native culture.

Large canvases and bark paintings tend to be the most collectible. Other artifacts offered include painted boomerangs and didgeridoos, long wind instruments fashioned from hollowed tree branches. Whatever you buy, be sure you get a Certificate of Authenticity as there are many inauthentic "Aboriginal-style" artists out there.

All sorts of good eating at reasonable prices can be found along Oxford Street through Darlinghurst and into Paddington. Check first to see if your choice of restaurant is "BYO," bring your own beer or wine. If so, hit the nearest liquor store (or "bottle shop" as the locals say) to select a bottle of Australian wine. The country produces some terrific, inexpensive vintages. The Capal Vale chardonnay was a favorite at my table.

Among the restaurants I’d return to on (or just off) Oxford Street are:
-- Thai Nesia, where I enjoyed outrageously good red curry chicken with pumpkin. (BYO)
-- Clove, neatly set in an old church on Crown Street just south of Oxford. Here, tasty Indian cuisine is served dirt cheap.
-- Kelly’s (further off Oxford on Crown) promises the "best steak in town." Certainly, my rare slab of sirloin was as good as any I’ve eaten.
-- Roo Bar (also on Crown) is a good choice for breakfast, especially its filling pancakes and egg dishes. At the internet cafe in back, you can log on and check your e-mail.
-- Balkan Sea Food on Oxford grills up an excellent assortment of fresh fish. I loved the red snapper, though the John Dory is also a popular choice. Don’t miss the local oysters. Dinner includes a generous Greek salad. (BYO)
-- Cafe 81 offers great people watching at its outdoor tables fronting Taylor Square. It’s a solid choice for coffee, breakfast, or a light lunch.

To gain a different perspective of Sydney and its sprawl, catch a view from high up. At 305 meters above street level, the AMP Tower at Centerpoint is Sydney’s tallest structure. It’s one of those Space Needle-type towers so ubiquitous in modern skylines that one might think they all belong to a franchise. Sydney’s version is anchored by a shopping mall, and -- surprise, surprise -- there’s a revolving restaurant at the top.

The view is worth the A$12. You’ll get to see the high rises of downtown, the expanse of the harbor, the sprawl of the suburbs. To the east you’ll spot the beach communities and Pacific Ocean, while the Blue Mountains lie to the west.

For closer views of the harbor, walk across the famous Harbor Bridge. (The pedestrian entrance is at Cumberland Street.) It’s possible to scale to the very top of the bridge’s steel arch on a supervised tour. However, this is a costly, controlled and time-consuming option. Instead, you might try walking up the bridge’s concrete pylon. For A$2, you’ll get to watch a video presentation detailing the span’s construction and history. (It opened in 1931.) Then, spend as much time as you like enjoying the view from platform at the pylon’s top.