Cuba

Like Vietnam, being an American in Cuba means something else entirely than if you come from any other nation. Just having the chance to walk in Havana (probably the safest big city in the world) is one of life's great joys. True, poverty is everyway visible, but a different kind of poverty than we've come to know. The place sings with life 24 hours a day.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

Do yourself a favor and rent a bike.

Don't go to Coppelia for the ice cream, go for the experience of it. Located in the heart of Havana, the Copellia is a huge 'ice cream park' where Habaneros line up everyday for up to an hour to have a seat and enjoy some ice cream. This place was featured in the Cuban film 'Strawberries and Chocolate' and should be checked out by anyone visiting Havana. It's possible to pay a couple of bucks and jump the line, but it's much more interesting to take the time to wait in line, watch kids get excited, and teenagers get impatient. When you finally sit down, (usually at a table of four no matter how many are in your group,) you chose from a list of the days offerings. They are served quickly and with a glass of water, by women wearing Hot-Dog-on-a-Stick style uniforms. For under $.30, I think you can't beat this experience.

After your first day of walking in Havana you realize this isn't the place that you've heard denounced on your local news for your whole life. I'm sure Cubans who come to New York can say the same thing. Havana is far from a depressing place and in terms of quality of life it is much better off than all other third world countries I've visited. The setting of the city is idyllic. Located in a blue bay in the Carribean, a cool breeze blows along the Malecon (the waterfront wall of the city.) In just one afternoon I guarantee you'll see 10 things you never imagined before.

The Cafe Cantante is a bar/club located directly under the National Theater of Cuba. It is one of the few spots in Havana that draws a good mix of Cubans and foreigners and it feels much more authentic than many of the clubs and music venues in other sections of Havana. There are afternoon live music performances, usually by bands specializing in traditional Cuban music or salsa. The day I went, there was also a stand-up comedian performing. Another plus is that it's air conditioned, which can be a life saver sometimes in the heat and humiity of Havana summers. A variety of food and drinks are available. Admission is $10 for foreigners and 10 pesos for Cubans.

One of my favorite places to hang out at in Havana is the Casa de Amistad. It's equal parts bar, restaurant, and music garden. It feels like what I imagine pre-revolutionary Cuba to have been like. Located in an old colonial house in the nicest section of Havana, this is a great place to go have a few drinks or even lunch. The place isn't cheap, but prices are fairly reasonable. Local criollo food is available. At night the place gets going with live performances in the beautiful garden in the back. The whole place is sometimes rented out for weddings or other celebrations. It's a good place to take a date.

Forget what you've heard about Cuba. All of it. While Cuba may be a 'socialist' or 'communist' society this is in no way reflected in their attempts to get ahead. Cubans are among the most industrious and resourceful people on the planet. This most likely stems from world class education, or perhaps goes back to something more ancient. I'm not sure which, all I know is that capitalism is alive and well in the streets of Havana. Lack of material supplies has necesitated Cubans to take advantage of what they have. We all know about the big 1950s model American cars rolling through Havana, but what few outsiders see are the much smaller markers of this same phenomenon. Example: Cigarette Lighters. Because their island produces the most acclaimed tobacco in the world, Cubans are also world class smokers. Tobacco is plentiful, fire is not. Throughout Havana you'll find old men sitting at tables in the street repairing disposable lighters that should have been disposed of long ago. From the looks of the lighters, most appear to have been 'in the shop' before. There are similar stalls working on bicycle tires and kitchen appliances. On a similar note, look for the guys in front of the Capitol building using turn of the century cameras to take amazing black and white pictures that they process while you wait. There are only 8 such cameras remaining on the island, or so I'm told.