Powder Heave—Niseko

The Niseko area in Hokkaido, Japan's northern wilderness island, is a powder hound's dream. Originating in Siberia, storms cross the Sea of Japan pick up moisture and, on hitting the mountains around Niseko, dump some of the driest deepest powder snow around. An average season sees well over 10m, with 15m falls being common.

Niseko's scenery, people, food, onsens (hot springs), and, of course, snow all combine to create the ideal ski holiday destination.

Quick Tips:

Don't take a package tour. While these are okay, you lose your freedom. Many people get daunted by "language" problems. Niseko is fast becoming an international resort with many native English speakers, and as many of the local Japanese can speak some English, you needn't be concerned with language barriers.

The locals are very friendly and eager to help visitors. Add all this to Japan's safety and fantastic sense of hospitality and even a first-time overseas traveler will have no problems visiting Niseko.

Arranging all your own accommodation (I used www.thenisekocompany.com), ski tickets, etc., is a piece of cake.

Best Way To Get Around:

In winter, there are many free shuttle buses, and they run between the four resorts, around the main resort town of Hirafu, and even into the regional centre of Kutchan.

Cars can also be rented relatively easy for international drivers. Chains are not used, but don't freak out! All cars have snow tyres over winter.

In the Hirafu village, it is possible to walk everywhere, or if your legs are powder burnt, take the shuttle.

Higuma is a western style luxury property recently built. It's run by The Niseko Company(www.thenisekocompany.com) who were extremely helpful in arranging everything.

The house sleeps 10 (more if you sleep on futon), has all the mod cons you need(including free high speed computer line, and wide screen DVD entertainment area), and is well located. All the linen and towels are provided, even a "modesty towel" for an Onsen (natural hotspring) visit. Make sure to check out the high tech toilet —it's good for a laugh!

The number of interesting restaurants, cafes, and bars in Hirafu village has increased recently. Walk around the village and discover what is tucked away: Gyu+ (some call it the fridge bar due to its fridge-door entrance), The Ice Bar(yep, all made from ice!), Yo's (renowned for its nonstop Japanese cuisine), and many more. All foreign visitors are surprised at how cheap it is to dine out in Hirafu, and with the quality, service (Yo and others will come and pick you up and drop you off), and affordability of Hirafu. It is definitely cheaper than other major ski resorts around the world.

Be sure to grab a copy of Hirafu/Kutchan Wine and Dine, which has a good map and gives a brief introduction on many of the dining options in the area.

What can you say? The snow doesn't stop, there are no queues, and there is a fantastic lift system, which all make a memorable experience. Accessing back country areas is easy and, provided you know where to go, relatively safe. You should obey the patrol's warnings of avalanche and dangerous areas (meter-deep cracks aren't fun to fall into), as people have died here.

A walk to the peak is a must on a clear day-the view alone is worth it (Mt. Youtei-Hokkaido's Fuji-like volcano dominates the view), but after bombing down ungroomed knee-deep runs, you'll be ready for the 30-minute (max) hike again!

While many people visiting the Niskeo region are more than content to stay in Hirafu and explore the four zones that make up the United Niseko field, I wanted to explore. John, from The Niseko Company, took me to other ski hills nearby which were amazing. Looking at the trail map, I wouldn't have even considered it—a single chair and two or three runs didn't look worth it. However, from a single chair there proved to be access to countless private bowls and fresh tracks through the forest all day.

After 4 or 5 hours of that my legs were burnt, so the "compulsory" visit to a hot spring was called for. Hot springs can be founded dotted throughout the Niseko area. For about $5 (sometimes free) you can soak as long as you like and emerge feeling refreshed and keen for more.