Even though our experience was first-rate, I find it difficult to summarize Bagan because of its uniqueness, its strangeness, and its size. Bagan, formerly known as Pagan, is a 42-square kilometer plain that contains over 2000 pagodas, temples, and other structures representing the rich Buddhist cultural heritage of the 11th to 13th centuries. At one time there were over 13,000 pagodas, pahtos, stupas, and zedis here but a threatened invasion by Kublai Khan from China caused people to leave and the site was abandoned. Our entire trip was arranged by Country Holidays Ltd., reviewed in the Yangon Journal. We flew in very early from Yangon and were met by our guide, Zaw, and a
...Read More
Even though our experience was first-rate, I find it difficult to summarize Bagan because of its uniqueness, its strangeness, and its size.
Bagan, formerly known as Pagan, is a 42-square kilometer plain that contains over 2000 pagodas, temples, and other structures representing the rich Buddhist cultural heritage of the 11th to 13th centuries. At one time there were over 13,000 pagodas, pahtos, stupas, and zedis here but a threatened invasion by Kublai Khan from China caused people to leave and the site was abandoned.
Our entire trip was arranged by Country Holidays Ltd., reviewed in the Yangon Journal. We flew in very early from Yangon and were met by our guide, Zaw, and a driver. He hustled us along from the beginning, and I don’t see how we could have covered as much ground as we did without him.
Of the over 2000 temples, we managed to visit only 10 of them in 2 days—and that was with a guide and car. We did other things, of course; took a horse cart ride, a boat trip on the Ayeyarwaddy (Irawaddy) River, visited a market or two, were dragged to a lacquer-ware workshop, went to Mt. Popa (a must-see by the way), stopped at a palm sugar processing factory, visited the home of our guide Zaw (met his parents too), took morning walks, and ate at four different restaurants—plus had breakfast at our hotel. See the reviews for more details on most of these stops.
Now that I think about it, that’s a lot to cram-in over 2 days.
We stayed at the Bagan Hotel in Old Bagan. There’s also a New Bagan (Bagan Myothit). When the government decided this area was going to be an archeological preserve they just moved everyone living within the preserve’s limits outside of the area to New Bagan. Such is the nature of an authoritarian Government. People were given a piece of land, but no money with which to build a house. Some tore down their old house and moved it, piece by piece, to the new site. Others did what they could to shelter themselves. The new town is quite vibrant now, and we enjoyed one of our dinners there at the Si Thu Restaurant.
In spite of the blurry speed with which we explored Bagan, it stands out as one of the most outstanding travel experiences I’ve ever had.
Quick Tips:
Note: You are required to be barefoot when visiting all temples in Myanmar—no stockings or coverings of any kind allowed, including walking up the hundreds of steps to the temple at Mt. Popa.
We were on a custom tour, partially because of time constraints. If you can afford it, that’s the way to go. You’ll cover more territory and learn more from the guide. Our guide was outstanding, and a college graduate. You can arrange for a guide after your arrival. Most of them are freelancers, and may work for less on a negotiated basis than if booked through an agency.
Another plus with a guide is that he or she can arrange for boat rides, cart rides, recommend good restaurants, and get good seats for the cultural shows.
Two days was not enough. We should have given Bagan and its environs at least 3 or 4 days, but we were trying to cover four major Myanmar destinations in 11 days.
Since there are so many temples, you’ll have to pick and choose. I suggest that you not miss the Ananda Temple (most beautiful), the Shwe San Daw Pagoda at sunset, the Dha Man Yan Ghi Temple (largest), and the Shwe Zi Gon pagoda (operating and famous) near Nyaung Oo.
I highly recommend the Lonely Planet Myanmar Book. Its section on the Archeology of Bagan is excellent and it helps put things in perspective as you move from one site to the next.
We did not visit the Bagan Museum, even though it was very near our hotel. I regret that and have heard it is particularly valuable as a first stop, as it will give you an overview of the area.
Mt. Popa is worth whatever trouble you have getting there to see it.
Beware of snakes if you are out walking. Since there are few people living in Old Bagan, the snakes have returned. Many of them are poisonous. I almost stepped on one myself, but was rescued by a quick warning from our guide Zaw.
It costs to stay for 2 nights in the archaeological zone. It’s collected at the airport. Each additional night is supposedly , but nobody collects it according to Zaw.Best Way To Get Around:
I did not see any taxis, but I know you can hire a car and driver by the half-day. The people at the hotel can arrange it for you. Zaw explained that it costs about for a half-day, but only for a full day. It may be more expensive now, with the high cost of fuel.
Most hotels and hostels rent bicycles, and this may be the best way to get around, especially if you have time. I have no idea what they rent for.
Trishaws are the three-wheeled, pedal-powered descendants of the rickshaw. They are available everywhere and are very cheap.
Horse-carts are also everywhere, and can be rented for as long as you wish. They are not very comfortable, but they can go places a bicycle and a trishaw cannot go like sandy, dusty trails.
I did see some busses, and according to Lonely Planet there are busses from both Nyaung Oo and New Bagan to the Archeological Museum.
Boats are available, more as a tourist activity than transportation. We took a sunset boat ride on the Ayeyarwaddi River and enjoyed it tremendously. The boats are so-called fish-tail boats much like the ones in Thailand.
Last are the sunrise hot air balloon rides, which cost per person. They are definitely not to be thought of as transportation, but rather as a once in a lifetime experience. Read Less