Tokyo and Kamakura

As you drive through it on the main highways, Tokyo isn’t the most attractive city. Drab buildings, of little architectural interest, stretch in all directions, and a hazy smog sits low over the city. It’s only when you see things closely that it starts to get interesting.

Our main objective was the east gardens of the Imperial Palace, where most of my preconceptions about what a Japanese garden would look like were confirmed. Shrubs closely trimmed and shaped, gave the garden a structure, little pools and running water, and gently curved bridges. There were no extravagant colours, just a range of greens and browns, but even in winter it was an attractive place. There is little that suggests this is a place waiting for the longer days and warmer weather of spring.

The Gardens contain the remains of Edo Castle, and the city that grew up around the castle was called Edo until 1868, when it was renamed Tokyo. Huge granite blocks make up those parts of the walls that still stand. The imperial family live in a much more modern building, in another part of the grounds and, as the current Emperor has currently no grandsons, there is a debate as to whether the law should be changed to allow female succession.

Kamakura is a place that grows on you. As you arrive, you don't really see the temples for which it is famous, and the modern city has nothing to recommend it. That impression changes as you spend time visiting the temples, and you begin to realise what an interesting place it is.

Our first visit was to Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu, thronging with people. Here you could buy a small wooden board on which to write your wishes (health and family seemed to be the most common) and hang them on a rack with everyone else’s board.

The next stop was Hasedera, which was rather more interesting—fewer people and more atmospheric, with shrines set amongst carefully crafted gardens. Here is a shrine surrounded by small stone figures, ‘to comfort the souls of unfortunate unborn children’. Some were dressed in little hats, shawls, and scarves.

One of the most famous images of Kamakura is the Giant Buddha. Actually, the site was full of people and wasn’t as interesting as the other temples, although the Buddha itself is impressive.

Jochi-ji and Engaku-ji are both close to Kita-Kamakura station. Quieter than Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu and more intimate that the Giant Buddha, these are the most satisfying places to visit. Jocji-ji in particular doesn’t rely on its buildings to impress, but its setting amongst trees gives it a real charm.