Northeastern Utah in Winter!

Having the opportunity to go to Utah was a quick, spur of the moment, plan. My friend asked me to go with her to visit her brother, who lived in Park City and had just bought a new house high on a hill overlooking the city. I had no idea what to expect, but as soon as I got off the plane in Salt Lake City I fell in love with Utah, and as we continued to drive to Park City, I was just amazed at its dramatic beauty.

Park City was the 2002 Winter Olympics area for the skiing events, and it is a skiiers paradise with some of the best packed powder conditions you can find in the West. It was also a mining town before it was discovered to be a winter retreat for the serious skier and skateboarding enthusiast. A picturesque small city, nestled in a valley, with the Rocky Mountains as its backdrop. Numerous ski slopes shoot up and out, all around the city. The main street was a bustle of activity, for it was also the same time as the Sundance Film Festival, which was in full swing when we arrived.

Staying in Park City in a gorgeous home was a treat in itself, the views were spectacular, and even eating-in was fun after stocking up at the local "Wild Oats" health food store. We did, however, manage to get reservations at Adolph's Restaurant for two nights in a row. A wonderful well-known place to eat. However, my favorite thing to do was to visit Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake, just north of Salt Lake City. What an experience to see the beauty and wildlife in the winter months. Also, a ride to Provo Canyon, through Heber, proved to be an amazing display of more mountainous dramatic landscapes, and great beauty. I like the slower pace and the people are extremely friendly. I never expected to have such a good time and to enjoy the wild rugged environment as much as I did. I can't wait to go back.

Quick Tips:

As with any other place one visits, it is good to be able to spend a longer time in each individual destination. Rushing around can overload your ability to take in each beautiful view and enjoy it to the fullest. Take your time. Utah will never let you down.

Best Way To Get Around:

Renting a car (recommend SUV) at the airport is a good way to be spontaneous, and in control of your own comings and goings. Utah is very diverse and from one corner to the other, there is more and more to see and do. The canyons are the best and most beautiful you will ever see.

Antelope Island State Park is the largest island in the Great Salt Lake, which is the largest natural lake west of the Mississippi River, formed by the Ice Age. It is home to free-roaming herds of bison, bighorn sheep, mule deer, and antelope. The bison are the most famous residents of the island. What a thrill it was to see a herd, way off in the distance, grazing in the lightly falling snow. The landscape of the island makes for an amazing backdrop to see this incredible wildlife. I saw them while it was snowing and you could see the snow sticking to their backs—it gave them a mystical look. All I could think of was the "Great White Ghost" bison of folklore and tall yarns of long ago.

It is because of the many fresh water springs on the island, which is in the Great Salt Lake with no inlets of it's own except the melting snows of winter, that makes it a supportive place for wildlife and vegetation. Sort of a life source in the middle of the dead salt lake. I found it interesting that there is no fish or vegetation in the Great Salt Lake itself, only shrimp brine, lava, and flies can survive, which is what draws so many millions of migrating birds.

My visit was in January on a snowy day, so it was an unusual setting of stormy skies and beautiful landscapes that were muted by the fog on the edge of the lake. I saw my first Jack rabbit, with huge long back feet, and also a coyote alone in a deserted field. But the bison was the most dramatic of all, as you can see them in their natural environment.

Fielding Garr established the first permanent residence in 1864, and ever since then it has been a ranch still in operation. Artifacts reveal that people first inhabited the island more than 6,000 years ago. It was first explored by John Fremont and Kit Carson in 1845. Utah State Parks purchased the 2,000 acres of the island in 1969 and it is enjoyed by many people who visit it all year long. I was really impressed by the Visitor's center that showed wonderful films of the history of the island, and the gift shop was full of wonderful wildlife gifts.

I wish I could have seen the island on a clear day, but the winter weather showed us a whole different beauty of the island. We could not see past the edge of the shoreline, which gave it an even more remote feeling of isolation.

The most impressive thing was the 7 mile long narrow causeway that takes you to the island, through the lake, by car. In other seasons it is a haven for hikers, campers, and bikers who enjoy the many trails by foot, car, or bike.

Heber was an unexpected delight as we drove through it to get to the Provo Canyon from Park City. A smaller city that still has the feeling of original western charm. The scenery was strikingly beautiful, with the mountains rising sharply from the flatter valley. Horses and cows were scattered along the pastures that bordered the road, and it all had a feeling of naturalness and everyday lifestyle, away from the commercial atmosphere of the ski resort in Park City. I liked it a lot. It felt like being home, and I could actually picture myself living here. It is only 20 minutes from Park City, and the rates for hotels are much less even with access to the same quality of skiing. If you want to get away from the high end prices and atmosphere of Park City, Heber is a wonderful refuge.

Heber still offers you a busy schedule of events and things to do, it just doesn't feel so plastic and trendy. The winter weather covered the place with an almost sleepiness when I was there. Yet, I've been told that during the summer there is fishing, horseback riding, tubing, and day trips by train through the valleys and canyons. It is also well known for it's golfing.

It is easy to mix-up the Sundance Film Festival in Park City, Utah with the Sundance Valley Ski Resort, owned by Robert Redford. Granted, both are in connection with this handsome actor, but Sundance itself is a beautiful narrow valley that is situated off Route 189 between Heber and Provo. It is actually very close, and possibly even part of the gorgeous Provo Canyon. To meander up through this valley of very steep mountainsides and pointed fir trees is an enjoyable adventure... eventually, you will finally come upon the ski resort itself. Everything seems to be tucked away very tightly in this area, including numerous grand ski lodges.

I tried to imagine the intrigue this area had on Robert Redford, and what would possess him to want to buy-up the whole valley. Perhaps because it is so remote and provides excellent ski conditions, or maybe just the fact that at the time it was a pioneer settlement in itself. He certainly must have had the resources and the foresight to envision what it could be someday... and that is what he did. And, it is now a spectacular place.

Driving to Sundance made a nice outing from Park City for the day, and I especially enjoyed the whole experience of seeing some of Utah's many scenic routes.

Provo Canyon, along the Provo River of northeastern Utah, is a beautiful and scenic drive in any season. I happened to be visiting Utah in January, where I found a subtle mixture of muted colors in the wintry months. It was a snowy day and the sky was a steel blue gray. I was continually amazed at the diversity of the Utah landscape, and even though the mountain views were numerous, each one showed a different shape, color, and depth of beauty in itself. The contrast of textures made wonderful photographs, and I was in heaven as I stopped to click away at each spot that caught my eye. I tried to imagine how this Canyon looked in the summer months, which I am sure is totally different than I was seeing.

As I was growing up in the 1950s, watching Roy Rogers, Gene Autry, and Zorro on Saturday Morning television, I became intrigued with the West. Now as I visit Utah, that West has become alive in me again.