If any two people could pull off the perfect wedding, it would have to be my daughter Saskia and her husband Neal. Fifteen months of planning and research went into this extravaganza, during which they came to realize and create exactly what kind of wedding they wanted. Like the pieces of a puzzle falling together into a cohesive whole, their wedding took shape in the planning stages. But more than a mere puzzle, this event was an entity with life of its own, whose culmination on June 4th, along with gala festivities on the days preceding and following, was truly a memorable and breathtaking celebration of their union.
Biggest highlight:
the Wedding, of course! Yes, my daughter and son-in-law splurged, but they got the wedding of their dreams and memories to last a lifetime. Also fabulous,
the Food! From the cozy dinner with eight at Nico Restaurant in Carmel to the wonderful Hawaiian Fusion post-rehearsal dinner at Roy’s at Spanish Bay to the wedding reception and outstanding hors d’oeuvres and dinner at the Beach and Tennis Club, the food was out of this world.
The landscape of this lovely peninsula is a highlight, whether enshrouded in mists, ethereal in bright sunlight, or, as is more often the case, somewhere between the two, with dampness, mist, and breezes increasing with the proximity to the bay and ocean. Old-growth Monterey pine forest, such as Del Monte Forest in Pebble Beach, and wind-contorted cypress trees along the coastline, plus all kinds of parks and greenbelts, give this populated peninsula more of a country feel.
I grew up in the southern Santa Clara Valley, a stone’s throw from Monterey Bay and its distinctive cities and enticing attractions. My first memories of the area include trips to Carmel, Point Lobos, and Big Sur with my parents. After my father survived two heart attacks in 1963, our family celebrated his recovery with a stay at Lovers Point Inn in Pacific Grove.
During my high school years, I went on double dates to Cannery Row, Carmel, and the 1966 Monterey Jazz Festival. While attending college, I lived for 4 years on the northern shores of Monterey Bay in the enchanted city of Santa Cruz. Towards the end of my working years, I enjoyed a conference at historic, beautiful Asilomar. The region has a hold on me, so I was delighted when Saskia and Neal chose Pebble Beach to marry.
Quick Tips:
Not a town, but a company: I was surprised to learn that Pebble Beach isn’t a town at all. It’s a corporation. Pebble Beach Company owns 5,300-acre Del Monte Forest, 17-Mile Drive, three luxury resorts, shops and fine restaurants around the resorts, four world-class golf courses, and a full-service spa and salon. Under separate ownership/management is Pebble Beach Equestrian Center, providing trail rides, lessons, horse camps, and horse shows. Privately owned homes along 17-Mile Drive and winding back roads are part of the Del Monte Forest census tract, and the owners pay homeowner dues to Pebble Beach Company.
Toll road 17-Mile Drive charges at four entrance gates, Pacific Grove, Country Club, Highway 68, and Highway 1. Entrance fee is waived to homeowners and event guests. One can start the drive at any gate and take as long as desired to stop at many scenic viewpoints and historic landmarks, shop at resort stores, picnic, or enjoy a meal at a resort restaurant.
Lone Cypress and Ghost Tree: As a child, I remember my parents and I gaping in amazement at the houses half-hidden from view in the forest or completely hidden by massive locked gates. But these dim in comparison with ocean views, breakers crashing against rocky shorelines, and tortured cypress trees. Most famous are Lone Cypress, symbol of Pebble Beach Company, and Ghost Tree, the bleached contorted remains of another cypress.
Just right describes the even coastal climate of Monterey Bay. Mornings and evenings can be foggy, mid-day is sunny. Mild daytime temperatures rarely fall below 50 degrees F and rarely rise above 75 degrees F. Bring a light jacket or sweater for cool mists and breezes. Rain is infrequent between April and October.
Nearby, Monterey Bay Aquarium on Cannery Row, constructed in 1984 on the site of an old cannery, displays about 550 species in its 200,000 square foot aquarium and outdoor exhibits. Allow at least half a day, but a full day can easily be spent here.
As California’s first capital, historic Monterey is overflowing with history. Monterey State Historic Park includes an old Customs House, a theatre, and two museums. There are numerous walking tours.
Artsy Carmel By-the-Sea is pricey, but window-shopping is free. Quirky Carmel is known for threatening to secede from California when the state decreed that all houses must be numbered and made high heels illegal without a liability waiver (1963). And Mayor Eastwood, of course.
Best Way To Get Around:
Getting there: At
Monterey Peninsula Airport, just east of Monterey on Highway 68, four carriers provide more than 40 daily flights to and from six major Western US hubs (San Francisco, LA, Phoenix, Denver, Las Vegas, and Salt Lake City.) From the airport, you can rent a car at one of six car rental agencies, or take a taxi or
bus into town ( fare).
If you prefer to land at San Jose or San Francisco International Airport, Monterey Salinas Airbus will provide a cheap ride ( round-trip SJC, round-trip SFO). The Monterey pick-up/drop-off point is the Monterey Transit Plaza (Pearl at Alvarado). Vans run from 4am to 10pm about 11 times daily.
Amtrak’s Coast Starlight stops at Salinas, 19 miles east of Monterey. This Amtrak Superliner between Seattle and LA has sleeper and dining cars and a sightseeing lounge. From Salinas, the Amtrak bus will drive you to Monterey (takes about 30 minutes) and drop you off at major hotels or the Transit Plaza.
By car from the north, take either Highway 1 (scenic but slow) or cut west from Highway 101 on Highway 156 (near Prunedale). From the south, take either Highway 1 (very scenic and winding—we're talking about Big Sur coastline here), or cut west from Highway 101on Highway 68 at Salinas.
Getting around while there is very easy in a car. Routes are well marked and peninsula city layouts more or less make sense. Parking can be a bit difficult to find near popular attractions and in Carmel-By-the-Sea. Monterey Salinas Transit has more than 30 routes traveling to and through most Monterey County cities.
Ride the WAVE. These free trolleys and buses (Waterfront Area Visitors Express) are the best way to get around downtown Monterey and Cannery Row during peak season, Memorial Day to Labor Day. The WAVE is free and runs from 10am to 7pm daily.
Though street traffic by motorized vehicle can be heavy and sluggish, the coastal route is a walker’s, jogger’s, and bicyclist’s dream. Monterey Bay Coast Trail runs from Marina to Pebble Beach via Seaside, Sand City, Monterey, and Pacific Grove and is 29 miles long and growing. The peninsula’s mild climate and clean air make outdoor activities positively invigorating.