Endlessly Fascinating Edinburgh

We have friends and an adult child in Edinburgh, so we have made repeated visits to this beautiful city. Edinburgh has many attractions, but after five visits we have yet to do them all. This is a review of some of the things we have seen and done.

For a lover of history, architecture, and culture, Edinburgh has to be one of the greatest cities in the world to visit. The population is about 600,000 and like Rome, it is built on seven hills. The sea and the hills confine the city to a concentrated area. This makes Edinburgh a very easy city to get around.

There are signs of history and culture everywhere. Edinburgh is the birthplace of David Hume, Adam Smith, and other founders of modern thought. Robert Louis Stevenson, another native son, called Edinburgh the Athens of the north. World heritage sites are many, and the long history of great architecture makes Edinburgh a visual treat. It is the capital city of Scotland, and has many institutes of higher learning. When in Edinburgh, I feel surrounded by culture and history.

It is easy to get yourself oriented to the basic layout of Edinburgh even on a first visit. The two major areas for visitors are the Old Town and the New Town. Old Town includes Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, along with many other mediaeval looking structures. While the main road is the Royal Mile, I like walking through the closes (the covered streets which lead away from the Royal Mile). New Town contains most of my favourite shops, hotels, and restaurants. As a North American, I was amused to learn that New Town was created in the 18th century, which doesn't make it seem new at all. But the Georgian architecture, planned street layout, and small green areas make it a delightful area to wander about and enjoy.

Between the two areas are the Princess Street Gardens, the location of the National Galleries and site where many of the seasonal festive activities occur. Waverly Station, Edinburgh's main train station, is also located in the area between Old Town and New Town. One time we arrived by train, which passed under the shadow of Edinburgh Castle right into the heart of the city.

Although British food is much maligned, we have found Edinburgh has a lot of great places to eat and have tried a number of them.

Quick Tips:

A walk down the Royal Mile is one of the best introductions to Edinburgh. The Royal Mile is two streets, High Street and Canongate. We've always started at Edinburgh Castle, so you can walk downhill. At the end of the Royal Mile is Holyrood Palace. In between you can take in a lot of what Edinburgh offers tourists. There are historic buildings, small museums, bagpipers playing, many places to eat, and shops with items of interest for souvenirs.

Because of the many hills, it is easy to get a good view of the city. Edinburgh Castle is probably the most frequented viewpoint for tourists, but we have found good views from Calton Hill and Arthur's Seat/Salisbury Crags. Unlike Edinburgh Castle, you can get those views for free.

The English pound is currency in Scotland, but the Scottish have their own pound as well. It is the same value as the English pound. The notes are issued by various Scottish banks, each with different figures and scenes. Instead of Queen Elizabeth, you might find a Scottish bill with Robert the Bruce on it. We like to keep track of the different notes we have seen.

Best Way To Get Around:

Edinburgh has a lot of one-way streets in the downtown area and very little parking. Some of the streets are pedestrian only. Combined with the Old Town design, where none of the streets seem to be straight, driving in Edinburgh is best avoided.

The buses are frequent and the drivers very helpful with directions. If you are a North American, just be sure you pay attention to the direction the traffic is going. You may find, like we did, that you need to be on the other side of the road.

Taxis are also a good way to get around, although they aren't cheap. Luckily distances are not long and many of the taxis will hold five passengers, so splitting the cost reduces the expense.

The best way to see Edinburgh, however, is on foot. The New Town and Old Town are both small enough areas that you can easily walk around them. But be sure you are in fairly good shape if you decide to walk up one of the many hills. The street going up to Edinburgh castle from New Town is called the Mound, a seriously understated name.

The Caledonian (or Caley as the locals call it) is a landmark red sandstone hotel on the west end of Princes Street in Edinburgh's New Town. It is now run by Hilton. Because of its status, and the rumour that Sean Connery likes to stay there when he is in town, we had to give it a try.

Booking the hotel can be done on the Internet, which makes it very convenient. It also gives you the opportunity to compare prices. By paying in advance we were able to get a reasonable, but not cheap, rate. The price was lower than the Scotsman, the Balmoral, the Sheraton Grand, other luxury hotels in Edinburgh.

The exterior of this hotel (built at the beginning of the 20th century) is very grand, reflecting its origins as a Victorian railway hotel.

When you walk into the hotel, you will note that the photos showing previous guests includes one of Sir Sean. When you walk in you will also notice the staff are very attentive and helpful as one would expect from a this type of hotel and from a chain like the Hilton.

Luxury, however, is on a European standard. Our room had two double beds, a desk, table, and sitting chairs. It was not a lot of room for four people. Storage for luggage and clothes was available in two large armoire like cupboards. The bathroom was roomy and scrupulously clean but like so many hotel bathrooms did not have a lot of counter or shelf space. Extras included terry bathrobes and slippers and shortbreads with the tea, coffee, and hot chocolate.

The Caley is an old building so there were creaks and the heated towel rack never got warm. On the other hand, we were at the end of a long, long hallway on the top floor and the room was very quiet.

The best thing about our room was the view out the windows which looked out to Edinburgh Castle and over the Princes Street Gardens.

The hotel has a number of restaurants, bars and places to eat. Breakfast was not included. We tried the Chisholm restaurant where continental or Scottish breakfast was offered. The Scottish breakfast was the biggest buffet I've ever seen with the usual choices of sausages, eggs, toast, cereals but also pancakes, waffles, sparking wine and juice, and even whisky for your porridge.

Bar Roma is located in New Town, just off the west end of Princes Street. The restaurant is large, and bright when the daylight shines in through the windows and gleams off the chrome. It is a very comfortable place to take children, although the crowd is a mixture of old and young people, couples, and families. The atmosphere is lively with all the people and the young energetic waiters.

The huge menu has the full range of Italian fare from pizzas, pastas, to some very good classics like veal. Our large group seemed to sample most of it and everyone was satisfied. Both the pizzas and the pastas were particular favourites. The appetizers are a bit pricey. This is better than average family dining. Overall the food is tasty and good value.

The place is usually crowded, so reservations are a good idea.

If you think you would like to try haggis, my first recommendation would be to try it at Dubh Prais. The restaurant serves it as a appetizer with a creamy whisky sauce. It is excellent. We have it every time we visit.

Dubh Prais is located midway down the Royal Mile. If you aren't looking for it, you might miss it. A sign with a black pot (which is what Dubh Prais means in Gaelic) identifies the restaurant, which is located down a set of stairs. Only eight tables are available, so a reservation is a good idea. The basement location without windows is offset by the decorations all on a Scottish theme and the painted walls featuring Scottish historical characters.

The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner but closed Sundays and Mondays.

In addition to the haggis, the menu features regional ingredients prepared to perfection with a Scottish theme. Fish, seafood, venison, lamb, and beef are usually on the menu. The menu changes regularly to suit what is available. As a result, the food is fresh and tasty. The chef/owner repeatedly proves that Scottish cooking can be as good as anywhere in the world.

The small staff is very friendly, efficient and helpful. When we arrived one time loaded down with coats, umbrellas and bags of shopping, they stored our bulky belongings in the wine cellar. The restaurant has the feel that it is run by a family group because they all take a great deal of pride in the place. We have been to Dubh Prais three times and have never been disappointed.

The restaurant is on the fourth floor of Harvey Nichols store (Harvey Nicks to the locals). The spelling of Forth is not an error, but a signal that you will be provided with dramatic views from the Firth of Forth to the Edinburgh castle. The huge windows and plentiful, but discreet, lighting give the space a light airy feel.

The food is also impressive. The finest Scottish ingredients are artfully fused with Mediterranean and Far Eastern ingredients. We sampled delicious starters of seared Oban scallops with heather honey glaze, and smoked salmon with pine nuts. Non-seafood choices for mains include braised oxtail flavoured with Glayva and rosemary, and duck with sautéed foie gras. My lamb dish was delicious. The wine list is extensive.

There is both the stylish restaurant with white table cloths, and the more informal lively brasserie. Lunch at the brasserie was quite reasonably priced for the sandwiches and salads we had. The service we received in the restaurant for dinner, and the brasserie for lunch, was brisk and efficient.

The restaurant is open for lunch 7 days a week, for dinner Tuesday to Saturday. The brasserie is also open for late breakfast. Dinner reservations in the restaurant are strongly recommended as this is a popular spot.

The Tower Restaurant, on top of the Museum of Scotland, is owned by the same owner as the Witchery by the Castle. Like that restaurant, this one also looks spectacular. But instead of castle-like, the Tower is sleek and modern with tweed banquettes, suede and brushed aluminum chairs, and velvet hangings. When the weather permits, there are tables on the terrace. And there is also a great view. The space is long and all the tables have a view out the window, although some have better views of the Castle than others. Despite the style, the feel is informal and comfortable. Our children did not feel surrounded by adults, although they were.

The menu is Scottish with some Mediterranean influences. We tried Argyll oysters and the famous char-grilled Angus beef for dinner. How can you go wrong with oysters as long as they are fresh, and these ones were. The beef was perfectly cooked and tasty. The wine list was extensive. Desserts should not be missed. Raspberry and ginger soup, and white chocolate and pistachio were a treat for the eyes as well as the tongue. Service was convivial. Dinner was expensive from the a la carte menu. There was also a pre-theatre menu offered but with fewer choices. The restaurant is open Sunday evening a time when many others are closed.

One time we arrived in Edinburgh at 7am and were looking for breakfast at 8:00am. Not much was open except Henderson's. It has a number of different parts: a health food shop upstairs, a bistro also upstairs, and the Salad Table is downstairs. There's also a wine bar downstairs. The Salad Table is where breakfast was served, cafeteria style. You pick up a tray and move along the serving area to see what is offered. Fruit, baked goods, juices, tea, and coffee you pick up yourself. Some of us asked for hot porridge or eggs and it was prepared and brought to our table. The food was good. Many locals rave about the lunch and dinner but we have never tried it. We were just thankful for a place for breakfast.

The Witchery by the Castle has two distinct settings. There is the original, low ceiling, tapestry walled dining room, and the Secret Garden with its high ceiling and arched windows. Both have the same menu. Each can make for a romantic setting for dinner. Located barely a step away from Edinburgh Castle, you may want to decide which room you want before making a reservation—you will need a reservation. Despite the very high prices, it is a very popular spot.

The menu is French with a wide range of choices, and the wine list could take a year to read. We dined as a group of eight and the service was impeccable, although not particularly friendly. We had no complaints about the food—very classic gourmet French. We had typical French offerings of oysters and foie gras as starters. I had a vegetarian terrine as a main, which was colourful and flavourful. Others had lamb, beef, and shellfish. While the food was good, it was not as good as you can find elsewhere in Edinburgh. The dessert selection, however, was particularly notable: chocolate torte, vanilla panacotta, pistachio brûlée, and pear parfait. Everyone loved their sweets.

The Witchery has long been a prestige dining spot in Edinburgh. Overall, the setting is more impressive than the food given the prices.

The Grain Store is located in the Grassmarket area just south of Edinburgh Castle. The streets are full of old buildings tightly crowded together. If you aren't looking, you can easily walk past the door for the Grain Store. The door is on street level, but the restaurant is located on the upper level of Victoria Street, next to the arched elevated walkway of Victoria Terrace.

The Grain Store used to be storage for the shops below. You walk up a nondescript stairway and into the restaurant, which consists of a number of small stone walled, huge timbered rooms. They still retain the feeling of an ancient building. At nighttime, the lighting is very subdued, which adds to the private and potentially romantic feel to the place.

The tables are made of substantial oak wood, polished to a gleam and not covered with linen to effect a stuffy or formal feel. The food at the restaurant is much the same. The cuisine at the Grain Store is described as Scottish, which means local products and produce. We had oysters, Angus beef, hare, chicken, and risotto. The flavours of the food come through in the expert but not overly fussy preparation. Everyone found their food delicious. The sweets we had, chocolate torte and lemon mousse, were excellent. The wine list had a reasonable choice of inexpensive and mid-priced wines.

Service was very friendly and efficient. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal at the Grain Store and would recommend it highly to anyone looking for good food and a charming atmosphere.

Even if pubs are not your favourite places, a visit to Cafe Royal is worth the viewing. It is a model of Victorian elegance with a central circular bar, wood panelled walls, and an ornately carved wooden fireplace with a huge mirror above. On one wall there are painted tiled panels, nearly 8 feet high, depicting famous inventors. The plaque states, "These six pictures painted by John Eyre and manufactured as tiles by Katherine Sturgeon and W J W Nunn of Doulton and Co. All show inventors each at the moment of his discovery. The pictures were shown at the 1886 exhibition, held at the Meadows in Edinburgh and purchased as tiles by an early licensee." The leather seating adds to the ambiance. When we went, the crowd was very respectable looking. It was noisy but not boisterous.

A mirrored wall separates the bar from the Oyster Bar restaurant. The beers include Directors, Deuchars, Theakston, Harviestoun Natural Blonde and McEwans 70/- and 80/-. For those that don't like beer, there's a short wine list. Not being much of a beer drinker myself, but wanting to partake in the pub atmosphere, I opted for a half pint while I surveyed what is one of the loveliest pubs I have ever been inside.

Arthur's Seat is the peak of an extinct volcano. The nearby cliffs are called Salisbury Crags. They are located east of Edinburgh Castle, south of the city centre, and near the main campus of the University of Edinburgh. It is a very popular walk because getting to the top gets you a great view of the city and the surrounding area.

There are any number of ways to start a walk. Most people park in the lot by Holyrood Palace and start on the walk nearby. We started from the other side in the village of Duddingston. There is parking available near Duddingston Loch. The walk is relatively easy until the very end. Depending on your route, you may pass by one of the three lochs around Arthur's Seat. A short steep climb is required to get to the top. From there, because it was a clear day, the Firth of Forth bridges could be seen.

The walk can easily be done in an hour and costs nothing. After descending from Arthur's Seat, we walked along the edge of the Salisbury Crags. If you choose to do so, be careful. Almost every year, someone falls from the Crags to an unfortunate end.

Calton Hill is located at the east end of Princes Street. It is instantly recognizable as the hill with what was intended to be a Parthenon, like the one in Athens. It was started in 1816 after Napoleon's defeat at Waterloo, but never finished. It is called the National Monument, sometimes it is called Edinburgh's shame, but it is a great place for a view of the city.

Getting to the top of Calton Hill is really a walk rather than a hike. Calton Hill is easily accessed and less strenuous than a climb up Arthur's Seat, another good spot for a great view. To get to Calton Hill, we walked to the east end of Princes Street and climbed about 5 minutes from the staircase at Waterloo Place. It is also possible to drive up most of the hill and park. There is a path that runs around the edge of the hill.

On top, in addition to looking at and climbing on the unfinished Parthenon structure, we walked around to view historic memorial structures and two observatories: the Old Observatory, designed by New Town architect James Craig in 1792; and the City Observatory, built in 1818, which has exhibitions and viewings of the night sky. Opening times are limited, so check before you go because it wasn't open when we were there.

One of the best things about getting to the top of Calton Hill is the view down the length of Princes Street, the Princes Street Gardens to the Castle. Looking south, it overlooks the new Scottish Parliament and provides a good view of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags.

Nearby is the Calton cemetery where some famous residents, like David Hume, are buried.

The Museum of Scotland is housed in a modern building in Edinburgh's Old Town. The access to the building is very well thought out with easy ramps, stairs, and a roomy elevator which announces each floor and its theme in a charming Scottish female voice. Admission is free.

The Museum chronicles all aspects of the history of Scotland. Displays are set out so that you walk around one floor, each dedicated to a different period of Scottish history. There are five floors in total. There are also special exhibits with a variety of topics related to the Scottish people and their history. It is very easy to explore the Museum and a visitor will learn a lot even during a short visit. Anyone interested in Scottish history could spend well over an hour on each floor.

The Tower Restaurant is located on the top floor for some very good food when you need a break. There's a museum shop with interesting items and books related to Scotland in addition to the usual T-shirts.

The Edinburgh Zoo is about 3 miles west of the city centre, accessible by bus, taxi, or car. It is located on a hillside that makes the visit, like much of Edinburgh, an exercise in hill climbing.

Admission is charged. For a family of four, it was 15 pounds.

The Royal Zoological Society of Scotland runs the zoo. There is information and displays about conservation of wildlife. Although it seems small compared to the San Diego and Calgary zoos, it has a number of animals, including snow leopards, white rhinos, and pygmy hippos. We walked, some of us ran, but if you don't want to hike around the inclined zoo walkways, there is a small tour bus with a guide.

What made the visit really worthwhile for us were the penguins. The zoo has the largest penguin colony in Europe, with four species, plus the world's largest penguin enclosure. You can stand on a bridge area and watch them zip along from one pool area to the next as they go underneath your feet. Their speed is amazing and you feel very close to the penguins. From April to September, a penguin parade is held daily where the penguins tour around the zoo grounds. During the winter months, there is a visit to the penguins program, which also gives you a close-up experience.

Fans of mystery writer Ian Rankin know the Oxford Bar as a favourite watering hole of Rankin's character, John Rebus. The Oxford Bar, like many Edinburgh places described by Rankin, actually exists. It can be found in the New Town area along a rather quiet street. Interestingly, the Oxford Bar is a few doors away from the Cambridge Bar.

The interior of the Oxford Bar is very utilitarian—no plush furniture or fancy decorations. Posters for theatre and sporting events are all that adorn the wall. Bare wooden tables and chairs are available in the rather small two-room establishment. The place always seems crowded. I had the impression that most of these people were locals, with a few very obvious tourists. If you do not like smoke, you won't like this bar; it was extremely smoky when we went. But for a Rankin fan, a pint here is recommended, because you will recognize that this bar is very much as he describes it.

The Gallery building alone is worth a quick visit. Made out of red sandstone, with turrets and statuary adorning the exterior, it looks like a Gothic castle but was built in Victorian times.

Inside is also castle-like, with wide staircases and mural paintings on the walls. Admission is free.

Like the National Portrait Gallery in London, the paintings and sculptures are often important for the sitter rather than the quality of art. But some good art is to be found, including many Raeburns, and some Reynolds. Portraits of key historical figures make up most of the collection. There is a particular emphasis on the Scottish royalty, but you can find some contemporary portraits including Sir Sean Connery, who was born in Edinburgh.

St. Giles Cathedral, or the High Kirk, is located on the Royal Mile. From the outside, it captures the eye because of the crown like spire. But its real importance lies in its history. A church has stood on its location for almost a thousand years. The current cathedral dates back to 1495. John Knox, the founder of the Scottish reformation preached at St. Giles.

It does not take long for a visit but since it is free, it is well worth the time. The interior is filled with statues, stained glass, memorials, and beautiful small chapels. I like to look up to admire the ribs on the vaulted Gothic ceiling. If you want to take longer, the staff are full of stories about the history of the church. They can point out the spot where, 400 years ago, Jenny Geddes threw a stool at the cathedral's dean while he was reading a prayerbook printed in England.

Holyrood Palace, sometimes called Holyroodhouse, is the Queen’s official residence when in Edinburgh. On one trip to Edinburgh, we could not go to visit Holyrood because one of the members of the royal family was in residence at "the wee house" as one server at a restaurant explained. A visitor may want to check that Holyrood is open before visiting. Admission includes an audio tour. We opted not to use the audio tour since our knowledge of Scottish history is fairly good, but those who haven't read up on Scottish history, especially Mary Queen of Scots, might find the audio tour informative.The Palace is located at the east end of the Royal Mile and is very accessible from the city centre.The Palace was founded in the late 15th century, but is most historically famous for its connection to Mary Queen of Scots. She was crowned at Holyrood and her Italian secretary was stabbed within its walls. Even when there are no royals in residence, not everywhere is open to visitors, but Mary Queen of Scots’ apartments are. Also open to the public are large rooms with massive fireplaces and tapestries which look very authentic. I thought it gives a feeling of what life might have been like many centuries ago. I certainly decided that people were small back then. Mary Queen of Scots' bed is unbelievably tiny and unless you are short, like me, you need to duck to get through the doors. Holyrood Abbey, which is adjacent to the Palace, can also be visited as part of the admission. It is now a ruin but was once the site of many royal events. The Palace is by Holyrood Park, the largest park in Edinburgh where the extinct volcano, Arthur’s Seat, is located.The Queen's Gallery is also located in Holyrood Park. It displays some of the Queen's art collection. Located in an old church and school house, the interior has a very modern feel with some high tech equipment and is well set up for visitors. A computer can be used to see the Queen's art collection which is not on display. She certainly owns a lot of good art.Admission to the Gallery is in addition to the Palace. A ticket for a family of four for both is £31.50.

The Royal Museum of Scotland sits next to the new Museum of Scotland. The older building and the new building are connected. While the Museum of Scotland focuses on Scotland's history, the Royal Museum is a more eclectic collection of art and artifacts from around the world, although mostly Europe.

The space itself is wonderful. You enter into a light-filled ground floor that rises three stories up. Except for special exhibits, no admission is charged. The ground floor has a simple cafe, an area for children's activities, and pools with fish. It can be very soothing just to sit and gaze around. At the far end is the Millennium Clock, a fascinating sculpture and mechanical piece created for the year 2000.

The displays we enjoyed were the stuffed rare animals and birds, and a display of glass.

Valvona & Crolla is described as a specialty food and wine shop, but that hardly describes what delights can be found in the shop. They have two, one on Elm Road and one on Multrees Walk, both in New Town. The Elm location is the original. The Multrees location opened in late 2004. The Elm location has a small restaurant at the back. The Multrees has a larger restaurant on the upper floor, with a wine bar and deli on the ground level.

The overall orientation of the place is Italian, but the foods and wine includes much more than Italian. In the Elm location, which I particularly recommend, there are specialty items, like Italian soft drinks, chocolates, baskets of fresh baked breads, and an immense variety of dried pasta, but the prepared foods are the real treat. They include fresh pasta, cured meats, and cheeses. You can select what you want and take them home, or, if you're lucky enough to get a table, you can sample the menu at the restaurant.

The wine selection is extensive and particularly good for Italian wines. Prices are very reasonable. In addition to wine, the shop has other alcohol, including an extensive selection of single malt Scotch whiskey. There are also kitchen items, such as mugs, tea towels, and corkscrews. If it weren't too heavy to take home, I'd buy the mortar and pestle they sell.

If this sounds like another deli, it has to be one of the best anywhere. Most of the staff seems to be part of the Valvona and Crolla families, because they care about what they are doing. The staff is very knowledgeable, friendly, and helpful. It would be possible to spend hours browsing, and making a choice can be difficult. I stop in at Valvona & Crolla as often as I can during a stay in Edinburgh.

Rosslyn Chapel is located outside of Edinburgh. You can take a bus but we decided to get there by taxi. Six of us took what the Scottish call a people carrier, what North Americans call a mini van. With that number, the cost of the taxi (about £20) was competitive with the bus and much more convenient.The drive from downtown Edinburgh to the village of Rosslin was less than 30 minutes. Numerous signs point to the village and once at the village, further signs point to Rosslyn Chapel.Rosslyn Chapel is a fascinating structure which has become a greater tourist attraction because of Dan Brown's Da Vinci Code novel. Building of the Chapel started in the 15th century and the full planned version was never completed. The Chapel is not huge compared to many other Gothic style churches.When you first see it from the parking lot, you notice the corrugated steel roofing above the building and the scaffolding which surrounds it. At first glance, it looks like a ruin about to fall down.Admission is charged to see Rosslyn Chapel's interior (£6 for adults, children are free, £5 for students and seniors). Admission is paid in a small building which sells souvenirs and has a small coffee shop.The fascination of Rosslyn Chapel lies in the extensive and intricate carvings. As readers of the Da Vinci Code know, many of the carvings appear to make references to the Knights Templar and the Masons society. Even for those not caught up in the theories of the Da Vinci Code, or think they're bunk, the carvings are nevertheless captivating as they are replete with historical, biblical and artistic interest.Signs describe some of the history and significance of the building and its details. You can also listen to the tour guides. One of the fascinating stories told to visitors is that of apprentice pillar. The master mason began a pillar but was unable to complete his work and so journeyed to Rome to receive further guidance and inspiration. However, on his return he found the pillar had already been completed in his absence by his apprentice. In his fury at the superior work of the apprentice, the master mason killed the young apprentice, and so the pillar was named.You can climb up the scaffolding on the exterior to view the upper levels. This short trip is worth the effort.

Any art lover should visit the National Gallery of Scotland. The National Gallery is relatively modest in size but immense in its collection and its importance.

The gallery is located in the Princes Street Gardens in the heart of Edinburgh. Its sandstone exterior is a beautiful classical architectural design. The main entrance is a modest door along the street heading up to the Mound. Inside there is a coat check with a staff who will ask you to check large bags or backpacks. No photography is allowed.

Likely because of its long history and generous patrons, the National Gallery has a significant number of old masters' works. Viewing the permanent collection on display can easily be accomplished, unlike some massive galleries, like the National Gallery in London or the Met in New York. And if you get tired or want to pause to admire a work, there are numerous leather-covered benches and chairs.

On the main floor there are paintings by Raphael and Rembrandt, and sculptures by Houdin, to name only a few. My favourites are the large Titans. I think there are more Titans in Edinburgh than almost anywhere outside of Italy. On the second floor are a number of Impressionist painters, including a lot of Monets and Renoirs, as well as British painters, such as Turner and Reynolds. The gallery's advertising uses Raeburn's painting of a minister skating on Duddingston Loch. That painting can be found on the second floor.

Most of the permanent collection can be found on the two main floors, which make up the National Gallery, with special exhibits usually located in the connecting building, the Royal Scottish Academy of Art. We have enjoyed special exhibits of the American painter Helen Frankenthaler and the Royal Scottish Watercolour Society, which featured some watercolours by HRH Prince Charles, whose paintings were very accomplished.

The admission to the gallery is free, but a fee applies to any special exhibits. The special exhibit fees vary; the watercolour exhibit was only £2.

The National Gallery was recently connected to the Royal Scottish Academy by a new building called the Weston Link. The link also contains a cafe, which has received favourable reviews for its food.