Vancouver Island Vignettes

Vancouver Island is located just off the coast of British Columbia (on Canada's west coast) and is home to Victoria (BC's capital city) as well as a number of other smaller destinations, such as Tofino, Nanaimo, and Saltspring Island.

We took the ferry from the mainland to Vancouver Island and spent a couple of days in Victoria on our way to Tofino (near Pacific Rim National Park). Vancouver Island is easily experienced by car and is a wonderful place to explore--simply hop out whenever the mood strikes you. There are plenty of quaint small towns (although in certain areas they can be few and far between) and an abundance of gorgeous west coast wilderness.

Victoria is Canada's "Garden City" and boasts a mild climate, beautiful harbour, and lots of English charm. The city itself has a population of only 80,000--you'll find that it's a nice change of pace from Vancouver, with its small-town feel, manicured gardens, and many tea rooms.

For its relatively small size, Victoria offers many interesting attractions, the most famous being Butchart Gardens, The Empress Hotel, and the Royal BC Museum. If you are planning on visiting a number of attractions, you can pick up a Victoria City Passport (), which offers significant discounts and two-for-one deals for many attractions, restaurants, live theatre, city tours, and more.

As we were in town to visit family, we didn't get to experience all that Victoria had to offer, but having visited before, I can definitely recommend the Royal BC Museum and the Undersea Gardens, both located on the waterfront. Our visit centered mostly around shopping on Government Street, with its many specialty boutiques (perfect for finding that unique souvenir or gift), including Rogers Chocolates, which is not to be missed, and taking in the views around the harbour.

It was on to Tofino, which is accessed by car through the beautiful (and fairly remote) Pacific Rim National Park. Navigating some scary old mountain logging routes is required, but that's part of the fun! Tofino is a small laid-back west coast town with a big heart--the perfect base for exploring the beauty of the surrounding area. What has Tofino got to offer? Beaches, boating, whale-watching, surfing, fishing, kayaking, and hiking--a nature lover's dream. And it has a little golf and spa action thrown in for good measure, of course. It is definitely worth the trip to the island.

Quick Tips:

Victoria...

For a truly unique, truly "Victorian" experience, try Afternoon Tea at the Fairmont Empress Hotel. It's been a Victoria tradition for over 95 years! Afternoon tea includes special "Empress Blend" tea, fresh fruit with Chantilly cream, scones with Jersey cream and strawberry preserves, tea sandwiches, and miniature pastries. They have up to five seatings per day, from 12:15pm to 5pm, and reservations are required (they should be made directly with the hotel one to two weeks in advance to avoid disappointment). Dress code is smart casual and is enforced. Prices vary, but expect to pay between C and C per adult. It's not cheap but is an amazing cultural experience.

Tofino...

Wickaninnish Inn and The Pointe Restaurant. That's it. Save your pennies, check the couch for change, do whatever you have to do. It's an experience you'll never forget.

While you're there, try a trip out to Hot Springs Cove. There is a natural hot spring that bubbles up through a crack in the earth and into the waters of the bay. Water flows from a bubbling brook into a cascading waterfall and then into a number of pools that end in the ocean. At high tide the cold ocean waves lap into the thermally heated pools, creating a very "unique" bathing experience.

There are a number of tours available (most by boat or plane), and many include whale-watching, bird-watching, and other eco-friendly activities. Once you arrive, you'll be able to enjoy a 30-minute walk through old growth temperate rain forest to get to the hot springs, where there is a changing room and facilities. It’s a good idea to take along lots of water, warm clothes, and a pair of good walking shoes, and don't forget your suit and towel, of course!

Need to do a little research? Try the following websites for information on Victoria, Tofino, and Vancouver Island:

www.islands.bc.ca
www.vancouverisland.com
www.tourismvictoria.com
www.tofino-bc.com
www.gotofino.com

Best Way To Get Around:

The best way to get around the island is by car (unless you've got a boat!). Most major rental car companies have locations in Victoria, or, if you are arriving by ferry from Vancouver, you can rent a car there and simply take it with you on the ferry.

The same can be said of Victoria and Tofino: having a car makes getting around that much easier and more enjoyable. A car means the freedom to stop and smell the roses whenever you feel the need, and that's a good option to have in a place with scenery as beautiful as Vancouver Island.

The Wickaninnish Inn (frequently voted one of the top-ten hotels in North America by the readers of Travel + Leisure magazine) is where the forest meets the ocean, literally. Located on Vancouver Island's west coast, it's just minutes away from Tofino and borders on Pacific Rim National Park. Overlooking Chesterman Beach (part of the famous Clayoquot Sound), the hotel succeeds in blending into the wilderness, surrounded by ocean on three sides and nestled amongst the trees of an old growth forest.

With so much to offer, you'll have to open your wallet to the tune of between C$220 and C$440 per night for a standard room (prices range up to C$1,500 for the Canopy Suite in summer), depending on the season. The Wickaninnish currently designates four seasons: Winter Storm Season (November 1 to February 28), Whale Watching Season (March 1 to June 15), Summer Season (June 16 to September 30), and Fall Special (October 1 to 31). Of course, winter will cost you the least, summer the most.

The inn is hard to spot until you actually arrive at the reception area--it has been built to blend in seamlessly with the forest surrounding it. The first thing that struck us was the staff, which was incredibly welcoming and courteous, and everyone made you feel as if you were the only guest. After check-in, we were led to our room by the concierge (a very nice touch), and she made sure we were pleased with our room before volunteering to make a reservation for dinner (which we already had) or any activities for us.

We had a very spacious king-size room, which included a fireplace, deep soaker bathtub (definitely big enough for two!), fluffy duvet, and private balcony with a forest/ocean view. The rooms all feature welcome touches, like a book collection, binoculars, private bar, CD clock radio, writing desk, microwave, coffeemaker, and big-screen television in the armoire. The bathroom include a large shower, the wonderful bathtub (with a view over the balcony to the ocean), fluffy oversize bathrobes, and a selection of Aveda bath and body products. Everything is top-quality, and it seems they've thought of every detail possible.

The decor throughout the hotel is artisan-quality West Coast casual, with many earthy materials (natural woods, fabrics, and stone tiles) and colours used to create harmony with the outside environment. Each room even features a handmade driftwood chair. The result is very relaxing and comfortable and adds to the magic of the spectacular location.

The Wickaninnish boasts a superb restaurant (The Pointe) built out over Chesterman Beach with beautiful ocean views and a cozy lounge (On The Rocks). The Ancient Cedars Spa is located on-site, with ocean-view treatment rooms. The spa utilizes Aveda body and haircare products and offers a number of specialty signature treatments.

Wickaninnish Inn was a highlight of our trip and is at the top of my list for a return visit. It's perfect for honeymooners or couples wanting a romantic retreat.

The Dominion Grand is Victoria's oldest hotel (opened in 1876) and is located in the heart of the city's downtown shopping district. It's an easy walk to many attractions, including the beautiful inner harbour.

The hotel offers two types of rooms, the newly renovated Grand Rooms and the Boutique Rooms. The Grand Rooms offer all the amenities of a regular moderately priced room, but quite a bit more charm then your average hotel/motel. Even though the rooms have been newly renovated, they still fit in quite well with the Victorian character of the hotel itself. The Boutique Rooms are individually designed and are decorated in an updated antique style with beautiful finishes and fixtures. Additional amenities are available in these room, such as air-conditioning, ceiling fans, and complimentary coffee/tea, and some rooms even boast fireplaces or balconies.

Rates for the Grand Rooms are between C$69 and C$149, depending on the season, the amenities, and the room type chosen; Boutique Rooms will run between C$110 and C$249. Make sure to check the website, as (especially during low season) special discounts and packages are available, with Grand Rooms going for as low as $40 per night and Boutique Rooms as low as $89, including a 50%-off dinner voucher at the nearby restaurant, Syn Bar & Grille.

The hotel is in a beautiful old Victorian-era building, and the decor inside is has been kept as original as possible. We had paid for a regular room (which at that time had not been renovated) but were upgraded to a Boutique Room, which wasn't bad for C$52 (including taxes!). We found the front-desk staff to be friendly and helpful. Our room was very well appointed and fairly spacious for an old hotel, with beautiful finishes, furniture, and art. It was very comfortable and had all the amenities we could need in downtown Victoria.

A word of warning: the Dominion Grand is an old hotel, which has its advantages and its disadvantages. If you are looking for the quaint charm of a historical Victorian building, you'll have to pardon the slightly worn look of the public areas, outdated facilities, and plumbing/temperature issues every now and then. If you are looking for top-of-line amenities or are travelling for business, you may want to look elsewhere.

We found the Dominion Grand to be in an great location, a great value, and a romantic place to spend a couple of nights. If you're looking for romance, definitely splurge on the beautiful Boutique Rooms--you won't regret it.

If I ever I write a review that could be dubbed "food pornography," this is it. Let me say that our meal at The Pointe Restaurant at The Wickaninnish Inn still reigns as the best meal I have ever had. Period.

So, blah, blah... breakfast, lunch, and dinner served, reservations required, etc., etc.

First, the cursory mention of the atmosphere and service, before we get to the good stuff. The decor is beautiful--casually elegant west coast. Lots of wood, earth tones... the highlight is a beautiful copper-sculpted screen with glass globes. Across the back of the restaurant are large windows overlooking Chesterman Beach, a stunning backdrop to the perfect meal. The service is excellent; the staff members are attentive and informative but don't hover.

After ordering, we were presented with an amuse-bouche, a scallop dumpling with orange coulis and fried potato shavings, which was a perfect light start to the experience (you can’t really call it a “meal;” that just cheapens it!). Then came often our favourite part--the bread. Its freshly baked and changes daily. We got whole-wheat salmon-raisin rolls and sun-dried-tomato flatbread with a carrot-leak cream cheese spread.

Then it was on to the appetizers. For myself, it was the salmon tasting ($14)--incredible, beyond my imagining. There was salmon jerky with baby asparagus, hot smoked salmon in a cream cheese horseradish terrine with cucumber relish, and my absolute favourite--candied salmon with red onions and capers (smoked and then glazed with maple syrup). For my husband, it was the clam chowder ($13) made with narrow-neck clams and some sort of barnacle(!), which had a very fancy presentation, too. And it was tasty.

Main course: I had the medium Dijon-glazed lamb with red wine lamb jus reduction ($40). The lamb came with roasted, spiced russet potatoes and baby spinach with caramelized shallots, cauliflower, and red pepper. This lamb was a baby. I mean, I don’t think it was at the point where it would have even said, “baaaaaah.” It was almost butter. For hubby, it was another of the Wickaninnish’s signature dishes--Dungeness Crab Medley ($40). It was half a steamed crab (with butter and a seafood dipping sauce), crab and chorizo risotto, crab salad with corn salsa, and steamed baby carrots, asparagus, and snap peas. We both had numerous samples of each other's meals because it was just that good.

Dessert--mmmmmm. We actually avoided the call of the $19 Chocolate Symphony (five distinct chocolate items) and settled on Okanagan Goats Cheese Cake ($12) served with caramelized pears and sugared hazelnuts, with pear and raspberry coulis. Hubby had the homemade sorbet/ice cream ($9)--blood orange sorbet (amazing), Belgian chocolate, and Belgian vanilla ice cream... again, it was just fantastic. As if we weren’t stuffed, the final surprise was complimentary honeyed almonds dipped in Belgian chocolate as the piece de resistance.

About $190 later, we both agreed it was definitely the most spectacular meal we’d ever had.

We did have breakfast at The Pointe the next morning, but that's another story for another day.

Okay, so Milestones is a chain restaurant (with over 30 locations in BC, the Greater Toronto Area, and Alberta), but this particular location on Victoria's beautiful Inner Harbour is one of my favourites--everything seems to taste a little better when you're looking out over the water towards the imposing BC Legislature.

Milestones is casual dining at its best, with elegant and trendy decor and excellent waitstaff and service, but no fine-dining attitude. The menu is all over the place, with inspiration drawn from all types of cuisines, but at its heart is west coast cuisine with a Pacific Rim/South American/Italian twist. There is generally always a seasonal menu insert, and this is where the restaurant truly shines, coming up with exciting new dishes that won't break the bank. There are also a number of good Vegetarian options available, for you non-meat-eaters out there.

Having been to many Milestones, we have a number of favourite menu items. Our meals usually include Cajun Dusted Popcorn Shrimp, Milestones Dry Cured Ribs, or Calamari with Andouille Sausage for starters; Roasted Garlic Caesar to cleanse the palate; Italian Sausage Ravioli, Grilled Chicken Pesto Fettuccine, Angus Beef 8 oz. Top Sirloin, or Portabello Mushroom Chicken for mains; and, if we can squeeze in dessert, the Chocolate Ganache Torte is to die for!

But the one must-do at Milestones is the famous Bellini, a frozen blend of premium white rum, peach liqueur, and champagne, topped with Boone's sangria (you can even get them to add an extra shot of Stolichnaya Raspberry vodka or Malibu Pineapple rum). A couple of these and you'll be well on your way! Milestones also serves excellent martinis, mojitos, and craft-brewed Palomino beer.

Prices will run you around C$15 to C$30 for main courses, but there are plenty of hearty salads, appetizers, and casual plates that can make an excellent meal for the budget-conscious. It's a great place for a romantic dinner, drinks with friends, or even a large group. We always find that Milestones delivers excellent quality and great value.

Chesterman Beach is a 1.7-mile stretch of sand bordering the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve on the west coast of Vancouver Island. At the centre of the Clayoquot Sound UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, the old-growth temperate rain forest meets the Pacific Ocean.

There are a large number of excellent accommodations available along the beach--we were lucky enough to spend the night at the beautiful Wickaninnish Inn, which we highly recommend. It is built out over the rocks, and all rooms and the gorgeous restaurant overlook the pounding waves of the beach.

We visited in early March, during the tail end of the winter storm season, and were treated to a fairly wild display of the ocean's might. Still, the beach was an absolutely beautiful place, almost magical, looking out over the rough surf at the very edge of Canada. It's amazing to be standing on the sand with the water lapping at your feet and turn around to see the dense forest directly behind you. Although the weather was chaotic, it was at the same time so peaceful and energizing to just be still and take in the power of nature.

Truly, on the beach, you can feel at one with your environment and understand your place in the natural world. There is a energy that you take in from the waves, a deep understanding as you look out towards the vast ocean--and its' just plain fun, too! The beach has all kinds of interesting shells, driftwood, and strange little treats left behind by the tide, and the sunsets are apparently unbelievable.

I am certain that the beach must be absolutely fantastic when the sun is shining and the water is a sparkling blue--it's a popular destination for the surfing crowd, too. Although there are certainly many outstanding beaches to be found in many parts of the world, this one is a bit different. How many places can grab you, even on a dim, dreary, overcast day? It truly feels like you've reached the end of the world.

Or is it the just the beginning?