Holiday in Madrid

It was about a 15-minute cab ride from the airport. The bellhop automatically greeted us and helped the driver unload our luggage from the cab. The lobby was warm and welcoming, already seating several cheery guests (a very good sign). Two narrow elevators serviced the floors and with me and my husband with our daughter on a stroller in tow, one more person would have been tight.

Our room was on the fourth floor just beside the elevator. It was tastefully decorated in creams and browns and looked recently refurbished. The room was cozy but reasonably fit twin beds side-by-side, bedside tables, a desk table with the television propped upon it, 2 chairs, a luggage holder and ample closet space (its sliding doors were full-length mirrors). A crib had also been set up at the side.

The bathroom was very nice, a bit more spacious than what I expected relative to the size of our room. The space by the sink was generous enough to hold all toiletries and capped off by the wide mirror above it. It had an old-fashioned dryer (the one that looks like a wall-mounted phone) which was working perfectly. The water-heating worked quickly. Supplies for toilet rolls, soaps, shampoos and the like were generous. Last but not least, we had a bathtub (yahoo!).

Cleaning services were great. Supplies were readily replaced and they always made sure to include extra towels for my daughter.

Every morning, we head for the 10-euro buffet breakfast. Selections include different breads and jams, scrambled eggs, sausages, ham, cold cuts and cheese slices, yogurt, cereal and fruits, with coffee, tea, juices and water served alongside. The staff is quick to furnish a high-chair for my daughter and friendly to her playful smiles and greetings.

I was really pleased at how centrally located Hotel Regina is. If you’re not averse to some light to medium leisure walking, you can reach many tourist sites on foot from here – Puerta del Sol, Plaza Mayor, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Museo del Prado, and Palacio Real among others.

Alas, not everything was perfect. Technically, we had a window but it can’t be opened (perhaps the view isn’t great?). But still, there was light streaming though the frosted glass; fresh air would just have been nicer. Also, although the ceiling lights lit the room perfectly, there were no soft-light lamps, so waking up can be a bit of a shock (but an effective method) when you hit the switch. But its worst flaw is the soundproofing. I couldn’t hear much from the neighboring rooms, but there is a lot from the hallway.

However, I believe Hotel Regina’s positives still outweigh its negatives. If your schedule is flexible, I would recommend a weekday-stay as their rate is only 50 euros compared to their weekend rate of 150 euros (breakfast is not included). Try to ask for a room at the end of the hall where there aren’t too many people passing by your area and you’ll be just fine.

Founded in 1725, it’s said to be the world’s oldest restaurant. We simply had to try it.

We came around 7:30pm and it was still cerrado (closed). I forgot that Madrillenos ate meals later than usual. With 30 minutes to spare, we just rounded novelty shops nearby. By the time we agreed on a souvenir plate we liked, it was almost 8pm, just in time.

Outside, Botin looks exactly as it was reputed to be, old and maybe a bit weary. The cheery host (owner?) opened the doors, and together with several attendants behind him, we were welcomed inside. Pictures and artifacts were scattered throughout the place, seemingly as testament to the history witnessed by the establishment. The restaurant spanned a few floors, but we opted to stay downstairs because of our baby’s stroller.

Our helpful attendant quickly produced a baby chair and coloring materials to keep her occupied while we perused the menu. I decided on the house menu, which included a soup, main course, and dessert.

I don’t remember what the soup was called. If there’s such a thing as cream of pork, this would probably be it. It looked chunky, with an egg atop it, slowly being cooked in the still-sizzling soup. Surprisingly, the texture was very smooth and creamy, even with the chunks. It looked insanely fatty and unhealthy but was oh so yummy.

Next came their house specialty--roasted suckling pig. The idea of enjoying slaughtered piglets was making me a bit uncomfortable, but the feeling slowly dissipated when I saw how wonderful it smelled and looked. By the end of my first bite, I had completely forgotten all my guilt feelings. Incredible! The pork was so tender and juicy that it almost melts in the mouth. It had a different taste to it, creamy, almost milky, well, probably because it was a suckling pig. And the skin was roasted to perfection: thin, crunchy, and breaking neatly with the knife. The serving portions were more than enough, and although I wanted to savor every lovely morsel, I was (alas!) already too full, even with still about a fourth of the serving left on my plate. By the way, this was served with some roast potatoes, very nice but completely overshadowed by the roast pig.

Last but not least was ice cream--vanilla ice cream enveloped in dark cocoa sauce. They’ve probably had some requests for more sauce because they certainly served a lot more than required for the scoops, and I slurped it to the last drop.

People really started pouring in around 9pm, and I was glad we came early since we didn’t have any reservations. And although Botin is more of a touristy restaurant, I didn’t find much difference with other restaurants, other than the fact that the attendants were more service-oriented. Our bill totaled to about 40 euros per person, and every cent was definitely worth the excellent dining experience.

I don’t remember anymore how we ended up here. We took a few wrong turns from Paseo del Prado and we ended up at Diamantino restaurante. And what a surprise – it’s actually along Calle Atocha, about a 10 minute walk from Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia.

For a mere 7.80 euros, you get to chow down an all-you-can-eat buffet. And although I don’t know the name of the dishes served, there’s a variety of foods you can choose from, at least 20 choices of breads, appetizers, meats and desserts. Among those I remember were seafood paella, fried rice, chorizo, several meat dishes, and some kind of pudding and pie. Of the dishes, I personally recommend the meatballs and the spareribs, they were yummy.

Of course, don’t expect anything fancy. Furnishings consist of cheap foldable chairs and tables, and the table cloth is actually paper (oh so practical to just rip and replace). They have a big screen TV for guests’ entertainment where they play Spanish music videos. At the immediate entrance is a bar and the buffet is located further along the area. You pay upfront, then the fiesta begins. The flavor is a bit different, more of home-cooking than what’s served at most commercial cafés and restaurants along touristy Madrid. Service is cool but courteous. I guess it should be described more of an eatery than a restaurant, but hey, for 7.80 euros (plus a few more for drinks), you should be so lucky.

Touring Madrid on a tight budget? Or maybe you just want to try “slumming” a bit? Try Diamantino.

You may never see anything as majestic as the Palacio Real anywhere else. Although Spain’s monarchs do not reside here anymore, it has been maintained in an immaculate state truly worthy of royalty.

Since we visited in January, I can only imagine how stunning the gardens and landscaping outside the palace must be during the summer. However, the lack of greenery did not detract any of the palace’s prominence. Gigantic dimensions and splendor were the theme of all corners of the royal grounds. It is said that the palace has a total of 2,800 rooms! And although only a few rooms have been opened for public viewing, this was enough to give people a glimpse of how the monarchs lived.

Some of the rooms made available are the Throne Room, the Library, the Royal Armory, the Official Dining Room, the Chapel, the Pharmacy, the Porcelain Room, and the Game Room. It is almost overwhelming to take in the exquisite frescoes, as well as collections of sculptures, tapestries, furniture, porcelain, glassware, gold and silverware, medals, and even musical instruments. The palace also houses an assembly of artwork by masters such as Caravaggio, Velazquez, Goya, El Greco, and Rubens, among others. Rooms have been walled with royal emblems, sides have been gilded seamlessly, heavy chandeliers bejeweled the ceilings, rich curtains and carpets framed the rooms, and the list goes on. In a way, every room is different yet the same.

Although you may take pictures inside, flashes are not allowed. This is indeed frustrating, because I wanted to be able to capture all that magnificence and look at it when I’m back home. Also, we didn't take the guided tour because we wanted to be able to explore on our own, on our time, but in retrospect, it may have been a better idea to be able to place the palace in a historical perspective. If it will take you some time before you can go back to Madrid, I highly recommend that you reserve at least half a day to explore and absorb the royalty’s world.

Without a doubt, the Prado is one of the most important museums in the world.

It’s amazing how with a mere 6 euros (or lower), one can already be allowed to witness this massive collection that has successfully transcended time and class boundaries.

It really is a bit overwhelming where to begin. Although most known for its paintings, the Prado also houses collections of sculptures, coins, medals, and other decorative works. However, if you’re like me (and most people), the paintings are what you want to focus on.

I’m no art connoisseur. I’ve known of great artists and of their most prominent masterpieces and that’s just about it. If you’re not at liberty to peruse all paintings to your heart’s desire, or if you want to have a better appreciation of the paintings, do your research before heading out to Prado. Or better yet, buy the book “The Prado” (25 euros) or “The Prado Masterpieces” (15 euros) at the museum shops. Aside from serving as a souvenir, this will direct you to those works of geniuses you simply cannot miss. Here are the works that struck me the most.

Goya. Amazing, this guy. His works show a range of versatility that is uncommon even in most masters. He was commissioned by the Spanish courts; thus, many of paintings are portraits of the royal family and depictions of Spanish life. A pair of his must-see popular works are the nude and the clothed “Maja.” Then there are his black paintings, which, though not aesthetically pleasing to my eye, are riveting. These paintings are visually dark, as smoky grays and browns blend to form seemingly equally dark themes. Be sure to drop by “The Witches’ Sabbath” and “The Third of May 1808.”

El Greco. Although he is known for his portraits, I prefer his scenic paintings, particularly those that portray religious themes. Majestic is what comes to mind when I gaze at “The Holy Trinity” and “The Adoration of the Shepherds.” The play of bold yellows, blues, reds, and greens of the figures, blended with the grey-browns of the backdrop, is striking and creates a depth of emotion in the images.

Diego Velazquez. The Prado houses all his important works, and they are simply beautiful. If you get a copy of books I mentioned above, you’ll read of detailed explanations of the painter’s intellect as showcased in “Las Meninas” and “Las Hilanderas.” Aside from “Las Meninas,” a personal favorite of mine is “Los Borrachos.”

Be sure to also check out beautiful works by Caravaggio, Raphael, Tintoretto, Titian, Rubens, and Van der Weyden.

I know this write-up doesn’t do the Prado or the painters any justice. Spend at least half a day there to be able to unhurriedly absorb these masterpieces. However, I think any amount of time you spend at the Prado will leave you wanting. And hopefully, I’ll be back someday to relive this experience.