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Sydney

Sydney - Where Music and Fireworks Float

Mrs. MaquarieMore Photos

by Carmen

A December 2005 travel journal

Last Updated: January 20, 2006

Journal Usefulness Rating 6 out of 5
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Pinch me. I can't believe I got to not only see this great city, but spend New Years Eve 2005 here!

Mrs. Maquarie
Sydney is the jewel in Australia’s hat. It’s flashy, it’s a show-off city, and I ate up every bit and licked the plate, too!

Certainly it features the most recognizable and most beautiful harbor in the world. With the sails of the Opera House reaching over to look at their reflection in the water and the Harbor Bridge spanning it, there’s no doubt that you are, indeed in Australia.

My hands-down best night in Sydney was New Years Eve. It’s ruined me for all other NYE for the rest of my life. I was on a boat in the harbor, watching the magnificent Harbor Bridge not only put on a show for those in Sydney, but showing the rest of the world how it’s done.

Upon my arrival in the city, my first glance of the Opera House and the Harbor Bridge brought tears to my eyes. I almost asked someone walking by to pinch me to make sure I was really awake. This was my dream trip, and I was standing there looking at these two icons, thinking to myself that my dreams hadn’t done them justice.

Climbing that “coat hanger,” as the Sydney-ites call it, was another high point for me. The Bridge Climb was exciting, and not as challenging as I had feared. The vantage point was incredible, and since my birthday was a week away, I was serenaded at the top by my climb group. There’s nothing like a sunset from atop the bridge, either.

The best Sydney meal was at Wolfie’s Grill, a very nice steak with potatoes and a view of the aforementioned Opera House. The best drinks were with an American whom I met on the flight over who works in Sydney, and she recommended the HarborView Hotel. Hanging out with her, meeting authentic Australian boys and drinking a “Sex on the Bridge” was a great way to close out my Australian journey on my last day.

Quick Tips:

For NYE, the best spot is on a boat in the harbor. Second best spot would be Mrs. Maquarie’s Chair, but you’ll have to get there pretty early in the day. By 10am the space around the opera house was already filling up.

Ask your travel agent for coupons. Mine gave me some coupons for dinner, and through my tour group, I had a certificate for a free koala pin with an opal from one of the opal shops as one of many "vouchers" we were given to attractions around Australia.

Sydney is also probably your cheapest option for opals, unless you’re mining them yourself. However, gold is more expensive there, so you’re not saving much.

Photographers: The best place to get a bridge/Opera House combo photo is Mrs. Maquarie's Chair. For sunset in January, I recommend the other side of the bridge at Milson's Point.

Lastly, If you can’t book a Bridge Climb, go to the offices anyway. While I was there, I was able to even move tour times, so your best bet is to go direct to the source, rather than through your concierge, who probably blocks off batch tickets, and it’ll cost you more that way, too.

Read other reviews from my Australia trip:

Melbourne | Alice Springs | Uluru | Cairns

Best Way To Get Around:

I think the best way to get around is by foot. That way, you can stop in all the shops and really get the best look at Sydney. When you wear yourself out, cabs are easily available and inexpensive options. (Look for taxi areas, or just flag one down.)

When my new Sydney friend joined me for drinks, she took a train in, and mentioned that she once walked an hour or so home because it was a nice day. So everything is accessible as a modern city.
The room was really nice.
Even though I’d booked my trip in February of 2005 for New Year’s Eve, my travel agent was having difficulty finding me a room for only one night on the night of all nights in Sydney. Most hotels wanted a two-night stay, and $300 a night on top of that.

In an effort to find some hotel names to email directly and plead for an exception, I came across the Rydges Jamison Sydney on Expedia.com. They would allow a one-night stay and the cost was $279 a night. I couldn’t believe it! I even called Expedia to make sure I was reading things right. They said it was an honest deal, so I booked it on the spot!

The hotel is on Jamison Street, right off of George Street – a main road down to the harbor. It was only a three-block walk to Circular Quay (pronounced “key”) which took about 5 minutes. It was a 20-minute walk to Darling Harbor, which is where I had to catch my New Year’s Eve cruise, which was a longer walk, but turned out to be a non-issue. I was able to catch a cab there, and the walk back was safe, as there were a million other people out as well, and no cars as the roads were closed.

I was also impressed by the security on NYE. There was a bellman posted at the front door checking to make sure that anyone who entered the hotel was a registered guest. Bravo!

The hotel was listed as a 4-star, but I’d venture it was on the verge of 5. The rooms were beautiful, and mine had a view behind some buildings into the harbor. The room had black out shades, which came in handy when sleeping in after a long New Year’s Eve, and all the amenities you’d expect.

The staff was wonderful, making me feel like I was the most important guest everywhere. They were quick to answer questions, and the concierge was a fount of information.

There was a business center available as well, charging $5 for 20 minutes of Internet time. I will say that the hotel gave off more of a business-traveler vibe, but I was never treated as unwelcome as a tourist – just the opposite.

I was very pleased with my luck on getting to stay in this hotel, and would highly recommend it to anyone venturing to Sydney!
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Carmen on January 19, 2006

Rydges Jamison Sydney
11 Jamison Street. Sydney, Australia 2000
+61 (2) 9696 2500

I thought the cirucular bathroom was cute.
The five-star Softiel is located on Phillip Street in Sydney, just off of Pitt Street, one of the major veins of the city. It’s a five-minute walk to Circular Quay (“key”) where the Opera House sits. I wouldn’t say it’s one of the closest hotels to the harbor, but it’s certainly one of the nicest.

The rooms, as in any major city with land availability issues, were small, but not uncomfortably so. My single room had a king bed, and everything was organized so as to be available, but not in the way (such as a TV on a fold-away-into-the-cabinets stand). The bathroom was circular, with an enclosed shower.

The bed was soft, and for those allergic to down, there was a non-allergenic pillow in the cupboard. There was also a well-endowed mini bar, but the prices kept me out.

I did order room service for dessert/dinner one night, and the service was not only fast, but very luxurious. I was “yes-ma’am-ed” a little too much, I’d say.

The rest of the hotel staff was also very accommodating. The concierge will help make a dinner reservation or just be there with an encouraging weather report. (It’ll clear up this afternoon, I’m sure of it!”) They’ll also wave down a cab for you, and open the door to put you inside. They’ll also open the door for you when you return, and make sure you have all your belongings before getting out.

As this hotel was booked as a part of my tour package through AATKings, I’m not sure of the specific hotel rate. The room servies was $16 for a slice of chocolate cake and some milk, and internet service was $5 for 15 minutes. The Web site lists their best unrestricted rate as $239 a night for the same stay – a Tuesday check in and a Friday check out. Breakfast is not included (it was for our tour) and comes at an additional $35.

The Sofitel Wentworth Sydney was a delightful hotel, though a bit further from the main attractions than I’d like. That said, it would be a great choice for anyone with some good walking shoes or cab money.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Carmen on January 19, 2006

Sofitel Wentworth
61-101 Phillip Street Sydney, Australia 2000
+61 (2) 9230-0700

Australians have the most national holidays of any industrialized country, and they take their time off very seriously! That’s why there were few places open for breakfast on New Year’s Day. The concierge suggested I take a cab down to The Rocks, to have breakfast at Pancakes on the Rocks. He assured me they’d be open.

It was a bit challenging to find the place – even the cab driver wasn’t sure. It’s in a converted brick warehouse (the Rocks is the oldest part of the city) and there was a small sign.

Once I located the sign, however, I could smell the delightful breakfast smells and my stomach started to rumble. I was seated immediately in the loft-like restauarant, and noticed the posting on the door that said there’d be a 2% surcharge due to the holiday. (Australian restaurants and establishments often add this surcharge on holidays, as I found out, and their New Year holiday extends to Jan. 2).

I was waited on rather quickly by several different waitresses, and ordered a plate of pancakes, hashbrowns, scrambled eggs and bacon (which is more like ham and less like American bacon--I didn’t like it much). No one short of a sumo wrestler could finish off such a feast, but I made a dent in it. Everything was very tasty, and even the glass of milk I’d ordered to wash it all down came fairly cold (it seems Americans are the only ones who drink cold milk) and was also quite tasty.

I rolled myself up to the counter to pay (I came across very few places where you pay at the table), and the bill came to about $16 (with the surcharge). I don’t care what people say about tipping in Australia, it seemed to be a common practice, and the dumb American left a $2 tip and went along her merry way none the wiser.

This is definitely a choice stop for breakfast, or any time of day, as it’s a 24-hour establishment.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Carmen on January 19, 2006

Pancakes on the Rocks
4 Hickson Road Sydney, Australia
+61 2 9247 6371

The view, unbelievable
I wanted to eat at a nice sit-down spot that wouldn’t ruin my budget (ie: I didn’t want to pay $25 for a hamburger.) My travel agent had given me some coupons for a set of waterfront restaurants in the rocks, and it just so happens that the concierge at the Sofitel recommended one of them – Wolfies Grill. He called up and made me an 8:30 reservation with no troubles.

With all the walking and shopping, I was getting hungry. I made my way over to the Rocks to see if I might be able to snag an early seat.

When I arrived at this warehouse-turned-restaurant, they were setting up their outdoor seating tables – they opened at 5:30 so I waited on the steps outside and stared a little while at the Opera House.

When opening time came, they said of course that they would change my seating time, and I got a table for one at the edge of the wall (the restaurant sits slightly below the sidewalk.) My view? I got to stare at a few purple and white petunias framing the Opera House. I could get used to this.

The menu was full of beef specialties and fish specialties, and having tried the very good barramundi fillets at other times, I wanted to sink my teeth into some good Australian beef. I choose the petite filet (at $25) with mushroom sauce (you had your choice of about 5 different kinds) and it came potatoes. I ordered Lemonade to go with the meal, which is not made of lemons and sugar, but is the Australian version of Sprite.

The beef came and was very tender and quite tasty. I found throughout my travels that Australian steak has a bit more taste to it than American beef, a slight bit more meaty. The potatoes were also soaked in the very nice mushroom sauce, so I used it as something of a gravy. All in all, the meal was over much too soon.

So, I ordered dessert (I had a coupon for 10% off, after all). I chose the crème brulee, and it was very sweet, with the top not too hard to get to the soft stuff underneath. If it wouldn’t have been a fancy joint, I would’ve licked the plate.

With my coupon, the bill came to $40, which was about what I spent each night at dinner anyway, and at least this dinner had some substance and flavor to it. Actually, it was one of the best meals I’d had in Sydney. That, combined with the view and the wonderful service, made Wolfie’s someplace that I’d recommend. Actually, I told the tour group about it when I returned that night!

The stupid American also left a $4 tip. For a country who I’d been told doesn’t tip, there sure was a spot on the bottom of every receipt to do so. And in this case, it didn’t hurt one bit.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Carmen on January 19, 2006

Wolfie's Grill
17-21 Circular Quay West Sydney, Australia
+61 (02) 9241 5577

The Rocks, at the end of George Street, was one of my favorite areas to souvenir shop, take a stroll – whatever. It’s the oldest part of the city, with the oldest buildings. It’s atmosphere lured me there several times. One of these times happened to be lunch, so I strolled along (stopping in shops along the way of course) reading menus and looking for nothing in particular, but something good.

As I stopped in front of Amo Roma, the smell wafted past as the hostess popped out onto the steps. We exchanged pleasantries, and I excused myself to go next door to Sydney’s Oldest Pub to get some money out of their ATM, then back I went to ask her to seat me.

I had the choice of outside or inside seating, but it was starting to sprinkle, so I chose inside. The tables are numbered, and spaced close together, so it’s a cozy dining experience, but not uncomfortably so. It has a modern Italian café feel, and the waitresses are all in good shape, as they have to run up the stairs to the kitchen, which is located on the second floor, and sometimes to patrons seated up one more flight on the third floor.

I was bombarded by Italian dishes on the menu, but it was the hamburger that fueled my desire. I ordered it with everything on the side (which always gets a funny look from the Australians) but the obliged anyway. Even the side salad with vinaigrette was good – and I don’t like salads. But the lettuce was leafy, not all stalks, and the dressing was very tasty. The burger was cooked to doneness, but still juicy, with onions cooked inside the burger. The BBQ sauce that normally comes on it (but I had on the side) was sweet yet smokey, and I enjoyed adding it to the burger myself.

Still hungry, I ordered a slice of lemon meringue pie for desert. It wasn’t as pudding-y as in the states, more dense, like lemon curd, with enough meringue to be a dessert on it own. I gobbled it down and tried not to look like a glutton.

The bill came to about $30 with tip (yes, I tipped again.) It was a quaint little café with good food and good service in a great area. Yes, I say stop in if you’re in the Rocks, and maybe even if you aren’t.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Carmen on January 19, 2006

Amo Roma (Pizza on the Rocks)
135 George Street Sydney, Australia
+61 02 9247 1920

Can
Probably one of the most distinctive city icons in the world, the Sydney Opera House beckons you to look at it from every angle. One of the most interesting of those angles is from the inside.

Book a tour of the Opera House, and you’ll get a guided walk-through of this fascinating building. Get up close and personal with the tiles on the sails (which are not white, by the way, but several shades of off-white, otherwise, we’d all be blinded from the reflection.) Take a seat in the concert halls. Take a gander at the organ that took seven years to build and two years to tune.

And, of course, hear about the building of the Opera House, and it’s famous designer, Utzon. Utzon’s design was originally put into the reject pile. The design committee was waiting for their American member to join them and make the final decision, but before he did, he took a look through that rejection pile, saw Utzon’s design, and convinced the rest of the panel that this was the design that should win. Funny enough, Utzon had designed the sails without really knowing HOW to build them. (He’d only designed three other buildings, I’m told, and they were nowhere near the magnitude of this building). It took Utzon two years to come up with the “Spherical Solution”, which was taken from the idea that all of the sails could be cut from a single sphere. Of course, that two years had increased the amount of time that the city had been told it would take to build the Opera House, and Utzon’s solution increased the price as well – from $20 million (nothing to sneeze at in the 1950s) to $170 million. Utzon used all of his money on the outside design, and didn’t have the money for the interior. He resigned after a disagreement with the city and has never returned to see his masterpiece.

He was, however, re-involved in 1999 to write a book about the design principals for the Opera House, so if any future changes needed to be made the builders would know how to do it.

There’s no photography allowed in the concert halls, and there are occasions when there are rehearsals or performances that might restrict you from even seeing them at all, so ask when you book.

The tour drops you off at the box office so you can buy seats. My advice? If you want to see a show here, book WAY in advance.

While the outside of the Opera House is a must-see (and you can’t miss it), the tour of the inside wouldn’t be on my one-day-in-Sydney list, but would definitely be on the two-day option.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Carmen on January 19, 2006

Sydney Opera House
Bennelong Point Sydney, Australia 2000
+61 (2) 9250 7111

Me on the boat with the Bridge in the background
PHONE ENQUIRIES CALL 61 2 9206 1122

Included in my AAT Kings tour was a lunch cruise through the harbor, and I learned when we arrived at Wharf 6 that it was to be aboard a Captain Cook ship.

We were met at the ticket counter by Captain Cook himself – well, not really, since he was eaten by natives in Hawaii some 200 plus years ago – but a poor suffocating soul dressed as Cook to greet people and help them decide on tickets.

The ship itself was the Sydney 2000, and we entered and climbed to the second floor where our lunch tables awaited us. It was a buffet style lunch – but let me warn those of you who, like me, can’t eat seafood – there wasn’t much else. Oh, there was chicken (dark meat), curry mystery sauce with rice, bread and dessert, but it left a lot to be desired. Though, I will admit, I’m a picky eater, and wasn’t expecting much to begin with.

During the 2-hour cruise, there was a commentator giving a description of what we were seeing and a bit about the history of the city. I think that the Sydney natives are taught to spell and say “Utzon” (the architect of the Sydney Opera House) before they can say much else. Ha.

After lunch was (quickly) over, I climbed to the top deck to take in the sun (a rare sight on this particular Australian trip) and the views of the harbor. I will say that the commentary on top of the ship was hard to hear, as the harbor is quite windy – plus being on a ship made it windier. I didn’t really need to hear as much as I needed to see – the marvelous coastline, the envy-inspiring, Mediterranean-style homes along the shore, the sailboats, etc. And, of course, the view that inspires millions – the Opera House and the Bridge.

I think a cruise on the harbor is a must-do for any Sydney visitor. It’s the life-blood of the city, and it’s likely one of the most distinctive waterways in the world. You have many options of cruise companies, and I’d say Captain Cook Cruises is as good as any. You could save money and take a water taxi, but you’d miss the bad lunch and the commentary, plus, it wouldn’t be as big of a boat.

Oh, and bring your Dramamine, no matter which one you choose.

Since this was included in my tour, I don’t know the exact price, but the web site http://www.captaincook.com.au/sydney/dining.htm indicated a price range of $60-$75 Australian dollars.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Carmen on January 19, 2006

Captain Cook Cruises
Number 6 Jetty, Circular Quay Sydney, Australia 2000
+61 (0)2 9206 1100;

That
1439. That’s the number of steps to reach the top of the Sydney Harbor Bridge. 1439 reasons not to go. 1439 racing heartbeats. 1439 leg cramps.

Are you kidding? You’ve GOT to climb the bridge. It was one of my best Sydney experiences. The climb is actually not that difficult (if you’re scared of heights, it might make it worse). I did get winded a few times, but that’s what a two-week vacation from the gym will do to you.

Start by signing your life away and taking a breathalyzer test (don’t drink AT ALL that day). Then walk through the door and get assigned your highly fashionable climbing suit. You can wear one layer of clothing underneath, but bulky clothes have to be removed. If you go commando, I don’t want to know. You’re not allowed to wear watches, earrings bigger than a one-dollar coin, hairpins, etc –nothing to drop on the eight lanes of traffic below you.

Then, you meet your guide (ours was Nick, Melbourne-born and very cute, also quite a ham) you get your belt – this has the “latchy” that holds you onto the bridge. After strapping up, you go “shopping”. Choose from a wrist-bound hanky, a scrunchy and/or hat, sunglass holders, etc. – EVERYTHING clips onto your stylish ensemble.

Next is a practice climb, “the second best Sydney view” Nick jokes. He tests us out here, making us lean right, then left, then kick. How far will his group go? What will they do? (For us, it turns out to be both the YMCA on the way up and the Chicken Dance on the way down.)

Before you get to the bridge, you’re given a radio for the guide commentary, and then you’re off.

Cross over the residential area, feel the rush of Australia’s busiest roadway below. Duck and goose-step your way through the first few railings, and then it’s up, up, up you go. (Lean back as you climb the stairs, so as not to hit your knees, but HOLD ON!)

Of course there are your tourist photo stops along the way, for purchase upon return (though one is included, as is a certificate.) When you reach the top, you really feel a sense of achievement as you admire the city and the harbor beneath you.

I had a special treat. My birthday was the next week, so the group sang to me, (and then we screamed like we were falling off!) Then I got to descend the bridge and watch a wonderful sunset.

You’re a bit of a celebrity when you climb, as people below wave to you and take your photo. Real celebrities have climbed too – Will Smith, Matt Damon, Bette Midler, and now ME!

This is a must-do! It cost me $135, and I booked way in advance (they sell out quickly). Twilight climbs cost more. Hint, if you can’t get a time through your agent or hotel, go to the office and ask, they often get last-minute spots.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Carmen on January 19, 2006

Sydney Harbour Bridge
5 Cumberland Street Sydney, Australia 2000
+61 (2) 8274 7777

Me and the sign
Bondi isn’t famous for it’s beautiful beaches, it’s fabulous swimming or it’s rip curl surfing waves – it’s famous because it’s the closest beach to Sydney! Hop in a car from the center of the city and you can be here in 15 minutes.

According to my tour guide (a local Sydney-ite) you’ll find more English here than Australians, but there were plenty of tanned, muscled bodies there, so who cares what nationality they are. : )

My first thought when I arrived on the sun-soaked sand is that you’d have to be a pretty strong swimmer to tackle these waters. There is a designated swimming area between two red and yellow flags, allowing the surfers access to the rest of the rather small beach. Even so, there’s a warning sign for strong current, and the waves could take the legs out from under you..

Still, it didn’t look like many people were in the market for a swim. They were there to sun themselves and be seen – but mostly to surf. Surfboards abounded, and there was even a surfing lesson going on. I was more interested in watching the lifeguards than the lesson, but it still looked like fun out of the corner of my eye.

It was a bit windy, and the sand whipped sharply against my legs. It was also a bit misty, so photos became a problem.

My most memorable Bondi moment, however, was upon my arrival. I was taking in my first glimpse of the beach along the promenade when a very tanned body bent over to wipe his legs and his speedo pronounced proudly “NORTH BONDI” – now that’s a welcome if ever I saw one!

Stop by the beach to rest your weary tourist legs. You’ll get an eyeful (the men, too--there’s a topless area for you to ogle at) and some beautiful beach scenery. The sightseeing buses also make a stop here, so even if you don’t have the luxury coach, you can hitch a ride.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Carmen on January 19, 2006

Bondi Beach
Bondi Beach Sydney, Australia
+61 (0)2 9130 5311 (

Harborview Hotel

Activity

At the base of the Harbor Bridge in the Rocks area of Sydney lies the Harborview Hotel. It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but climb to the second floor (actually, the third floor, but the first floor is the “ground” floor), grab a table and a drink and get a look at the scenery.

I had met a girl on the plane from LAX to Sydney who was an American working in Sydney, so we arranged to have drinks at the Harborview on my last night in town post-bridge climb. (It’s just around the corner from the Bridge Climb office). To celebrate my ascent to the top, I ordered a “Sex on the Bridge” and because I was thirsty, I downed it quickly and ordered the second drink on the menu – the “High Heels” (a mango-flavored concoction).

All pubs in Australia must sell food as well, and it’s a good thing, because all those bridge steps had made me hungry. Food choices were basic, but I was in the mood for some going-home fish and chips, and they held a prominent place on the menu (which fit on one table stand by the way, with drinks listed on the back). My friend ordered a chicken sandwich with chips. Typical in Australia, you had to order at the bar and pay, and then it was delivered to your table.

The fish was decent, but the chicken sandwish was atrocious. That’s okay; while waiting for me, my friend had garnered some attention from two males of the species, so we were entertained, at least.

While we ate, we could see group after group of climbers crossing the rungs of the bridge to get home, and being that it was night, saw the little lights on their heads lighting the way. The harbor views snuck through the beams of the bridge as well.

It was a happening place even for a Thursday, and a favorite, it seems, of many Sydney-ites. If you’re up for a drink or two, this is a good place to get ‘em. Drink prices were like everything else in Australia – expensive, but then, they are in America too. A mixed cocktail was $10, beer was $4.50 (I’d actually paid that for bottled water one day, so it didn’t seem too bad).
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Carmen on January 19, 2006

Harborview Hotel
George Street Sydney, Australia

The 15 minute fireworks show was a sight to behold
I arrived in Sydney on December 31, 2005 at 9 a.m. after 20 hours on an airplane and one day having mysteriously disappeared in transit. What I really needed was a nap, but what I wanted was to pack some city sights into my first day – New Year’s Eve.

Stop one was, of course, the Harbor Bridge and the Opera House. My first sight of these magnificent city icons stirred something inside me. Was I really here?

Everywhere there were signs of the night to come. Flag banners lined the streets for NYE with the 2005 theme of “Heart” prevalent in all. Digital road signs flashed “Happy New Year” with instructions on road closures and instructions for spectators.

It wasn’t even 10 a.m. when I got into the city center, and already folks had staked out the “good” spots for the show that evening. People had blankets laid out along the railing of the Opera House walkway, and plenty of water – it was one of the hottest New Year’s on record!

I smiled, because as good as their spot was, I had planned for the best spot – onboard the Harbor Queen (http://www.harbourqueen.com.au) for a New Year’s eve cruise in the center of the action ($350 incl. dinner & 6 hour cruise).

We set off at 7:30. I watched the sun set behind the Anzac bridge on the back of the ship, then turned around to see the Harbor Bridge and the Opera House appear from the front. The anticipation was building.

There are two fireworks shows, one at 9pm and “the big one” at midnight. At the stroke of 9, facing the Opera House, five minutes of fireworks dazzled the crowds. How many people get to have the Opera House for a fireworks backdrop? Unreal and spectacular is the only way to describe the experience.

After the preliminary show, the boats in the harbor – all decked out using the Heart theme – showed off in the boat parade, circling the harbor. After circling the harbor 6 or 7 times, we angled the boat into place for the big show.

As midnight rang, a beam of light from each side of the bridge snaked across to the middle, and upon meeting, the bridge lit up with color and light. There was a heart in the center of the bridge, beating and pulsing along with the display. Behind me, one of the crewmen said, “Mates. That bridge? She’s not even warmed up yet.” Fifteen minutes went so fast, yet stood still, as Sydney – the first major city to arrive in 2006 - showed the world how it’s done.

Though I’ve tried, it was an indescribable night. I see the photos and the images in my head, and think to myself – “I was there!”
Cute George and me
In my opinion, there is no other way to witness the amazing display of Sydney’s New Year’s Eve than on a boat in the harbor. I could see the number of people amassing in the other viewing spots, and was so glad not to have to fight the crowds. (Though, I’d wager that Mrs. Maquarie’s Point is the best vantage spot for the action on the ground.)

I’d done some Internet research to find a boat for New Year’s Eve. The Harbor Queen was reasonably priced ($350 per person included dinner, dancing, and a great spot in the harbor for the fireworks.) One of the reasons I booked the Harbor Queen specifically is that, through email communication, the staff agreed to help me get a good spot and set up my camera equipment to capture the night. I booked in August, and there were limited spots on all of the boats even then, so I recommend the earlier the better. New Year’s Eve in Sydney takes a bit of advanced planning.

I was to meet the boat at the Casino Wharf in Darling Harbor at 7pm. At 6:50, the ship pulled into the harbor, but didn’t pull up to a dock – there was another boat there. There was a big argument between the captain of the docked boat and the administrator of the Harbor Queen. Apparently, there are assigned 15-minute dock time increments, and the other boat had snuck in. Police were called, but in order to get things moving, the other boat was allowed to finish, and we boarded at 7:30. Needless to say, the natives were getting restless at this point.

Some new friends that I’d met and I rushed to board so we could get a table on the top deck. We got up there to find that they were all reserved (all of us had tried to book a table on top, but were told there were no reservations.) We all headed toward the outside seating area a bit miffed, but accepting of our fate.

To add insult to injury, the food, as expected, was less than par. Plus, by the time I’d gotten down there (I’d watched the 9pm fireworks first), there were some slim pickin’s.

I will say this: the staff of the Harbor Queen did keep their promise about setting me up for the photography. I was allowed out on the bow, underneath the captain’s nest, where only the staff were permitted. In addition, they were kind enough to allow me to bring my three new friends out there with me, so I wouldn’t have to be alone to celebrate. I also made friends with a very cute and very nice Sydney-born-and-bred crewman named George. He was as fascinated with America as I was with Australia!

Funnily enough, most of the bad stuff didn’t really matter once the fireworks got going. I wouldn’t have been anywhere else.

http://www.harbourqueen.com.au
I’ve made many observations and been asked many questions about my trip, so I thought I’d share my knowledge.

FAQs
1. How was the flight? Long, but not too bad. It was a 5 hour flight from D.C. to L.A., and then a scheduled 15 hour flight from L.A. to Sydney (a tail-wind brought ours down to 14.) For some reason, it was only 12 and a half back to L.A., but whatever. Quantas flights are comfy, with decent food. There are movies and games on the console. On the way out, I say sleep if you can. Also, see if you can get a bulkhead seat.
2. Is it expensive? Yes, Australia is an expensive country. I’d say budget $50 a day at least for food and bottled water. (Though the American dollar is strong as of now to the Aussie dollar). Also, count on a levy or a surcharge for everything. Restaurants charge a surcharge if they're open on a holiday. Fuel surcharges, aviation surcharges, etc. etc. Well, the Australians do pay nearly half their salary in taxes.
3. Are the men hot? Yes, they are for the most part. However, Sydney has a very high gay population, and the ratio of straight men to straight women is in the men’s favor by quite a bit. Sigh.
4. Are the people nice? The nicest I’ve encountered. They feel very friendly towards Americans (saying we saved them in WW2), and they’re just friendly by nature.
5. How do you speak Australian? Shorten everything and add an “ie”, it’s a lazy language. Footie is football, cossie is costume (bathing suit), Aussie is Australian, etc. Don’t pronounce “l”s at the end of words (people, novel, etc.). If someone said something that you’d say “no way!” too, your response would be “Fair dinkum?” and if it was true the response back would be “Fair dinkum!”
6. What’s the weather like? Summer is December – February, and January is their “rainy” season, though they are in a 30-year drought. Supposedly, it never rains in the Outback, but it was cloudy and rainy the whole three days we were there. It was still hot in the Outback – 110 degrees F. (Take their Celsius forecast, multiply that by two and add 30). Sydney on New Year’s Day was 44 degrees Celsius, the hottest on record.
7. Is it dangerous? You do have to take precautions. Wear sunscreen – the ozone is thinner down under. Don’t swim where it tells you not to. When you’re swimming in marked areas, be aware. I was stung by a blue bottle jellie (jellyfish) and didn’t even see it. Spray vinegar on it right away and put ice on it. (I’m ok, btw.) Don’t swim in murky water or where there are a lot of bait fish. Every day I was there, there was a FATAL headline. FATAL JELLYFISH. FATAL SHARK ATTACK. FATAL PLUNGE (someone fell off a crane.) Just use common sense.

Observations:
A. There are two buttons to flush a toilet, one for “light” flush and one for “full” flush.
B. Many places you order at the counter where you pay, and then find a table.
C. Meat pies are great
D. Barramundi is the fish to eat
E. Ketchup is called tomato sauce
F. Lemonade is the Aussie equivalent to Sprite in the U.S.
G. An Aussie buscuit is an Anzac cookie
H. Aboriginals don't like their picture taken. When one dies, they don't look at images or speak the name of the dead.
I. Aboriginals are a matriarchial society. Women rule!
J. When the first ship came from England, not one person aboard was a builder or farmer!

Interesting stories:
1. When the white man first asked the aborigine what the animal he saw was standing there hopping around, the aborigine said "kangaroo" - which meant "what did you say?" The aborigines called it a maloo, and there's a town just outside of Sydney called Wooloomaloo. :)

About the Writer

Carmen
Carmen
Fairfax, Virginia

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