Washington: Big Beaches, Big Mountains, Big Forest

Memorable Moments
We packed a lot into a week, and a lot sticks out. Two of the best moments were gazing into the top of Mount St. Helens as steam vented from the lava bridge, and walking the wonderful beach at Kalaloch in Olympic National Park as the mists swirled over the sea stacks off shore.

We emerged through the mist and fog to a spectacular view of the Olympic Range at Hurricane Ridge. That gave our carful a surreal, heavenly experience: at sea level, it was a misty, gray day with no hope of sunshine. As we drove up the mountain, heading through one of the tunnels, the sunlight crept in as we neared the tunnel's end. All of us gasped at the halo-like effect as we emerged into the open.

Lodging
We're not a campin' family, so we try to head for a motel with separate kid/parent rooms, or a lodge with a view. We spent the extra money to stay on the bluff at Kalaloch Lodge in Olympic National Park for two nights and were glad we did.

Best Sights
Olympic National Park amazed us with the variety of landscapes and climates. Rainforest, endless beaches, alpine lakes, virgin forest, 8000-foot mountains only miles from the ocean--it truly is about three or four parks in one.

Mount Saint Helens blew us away. Even a quarter-century after the mountain exploded, the damage and reshaping of the landscape is unbelievably evident. Those who've been here before can see some signs of regeneration emerging, which means it must truly have been a moonscape for years afterward. There's a chain of visitor centers on the drive toward the mountain which are worth your time, culminating with a fantastic movie at the Johnston Ridge Observatory (the closest to the mountain itself).

Don't miss the Grove of the Patriarchs in Mount Rainier National Park near the Stevens Canyon entrance. An easy 1.5 mile round trip, this walk takes you to a stand of thousand-year-old trees on an island in the middle of the Ohanapecosh River.

Best Dining
Copper Creek Inn, two miles west of Mount Rainier's Nisqually Entrance, is a great place for a meal, featuring a wonderful old building, friendly staff, a great menu, generous portions, and a neat gift shop. We ate there once because we had to—too late to cook, no one else still serving—and then another time because we enjoyed it so much.

Quick Tips
The Olympic Peninsula is too big to fully explore in a short time. If you only have a couple days, pick out one area, stay put, and enjoy it. Otherwise, you'll spend more time driving than enjoying—and due to the logging outside the park, big chunks of the driving can be less than scenic.

The northern edge of the peninsula has plenty to do: neat towns (Port Townsend, Port Angeles), alpine lakes (Lake Crescent), mountain ridge drives (Hurricane Ridge), native peoples (the Makah at Neah Bay). But consider the western side: the ocean strip of Olympic National Park is wonderful, with misty, isolated beaches, and beautiful seashore landscapes. Plus, you have access to the rainforests at Hoh and Queets.

If you end up on the northern edge of the Peninsula, take the mountain drive up to Hurricane Ridge. And don't let bad weather at sea level stop you: check in at the National Park Visitor Center in Port Angeles. They have a closed circuit TV that will show you the view at 5000 feet, which can be quite different than the fog you're moving through down below.

A terrific family hike to a beautiful spot, Marymere Falls is one part of Olympic that's nearly right on the main road (US 101). That means you won't be alone, but as with many national park attractions, if you get there by mid-morning, you shouldn't find the crowd too bad.

The trail is wide and impossible to miss, and it winds through one of the Peninsula's many pleasant forests. It isn't rain forest, but it's damper than anything east of the peninsula. The banana slugs practically need marked crossings here. The falls are beautiful, but the uppermost viewpoint does require some climbing. That path is narrower, steep, but with handrails. It's worth it, though. It's well under the forest canopy, so photographing the falls may require exposure times longer than you can hold steady (especially given that you may be breathing a touch harder than normal when you arrive).

Olympic National Park holds the only temperate rain forests in the lower 48, and some of the few in North America. The Hoh is one of Olympic National Park's main attractions, and like many of the others, requires that you head into the interior of the park. The drive to the rain forest heads up the Hoh River Valley, and turns off of US 101 about 10 miles southeast of Forks. It's nearly 20 miles from there, about two-thirds a pleasant trip through privately-held land until you cross the National Park Boundary with about five more miles to go. You'll have nice views of the river at several spots, particularly as you near the end of the road.

There's a visitor center and ranger station, plus picnicking areas. But the highlight are the trails, which take you through old-growth forest that's covered with growth everywhere. The two guided trails are well worth the trip: the Hall of Mosses and Spruce Nature Trail are each about a mile long, and with green everywhere. Both are accessible after the visitor center closes (EARLY, at 4 pm), and weren't very busy when we arrived near 5. If you're interested in photography, be aware all the overhead greenery can keep light levels low. Consider bringing a tripod--many of my photos came out blurry.

If you're looking for more solitude, consider starting down the Hoh River Trail that starts here. It's one of the many paths back into the secluded center of the park, but you can treat it as a day hike for as far as as you care to go.

I was awed by the forests of the Northwest: trees a thousand years old, yards in diameters, and hundreds of feet tall. This is a good place to experience them.

The Olympic Peninsula is a wondrous collection of different environments: remote ocean beaches, rain forests, old growth forests--and alpine heights. Hurricane Ridge is the most accessible example of the latter, accessible via a paved road that leaves Port Angeles at sea level and arrives, 20 miles later, at 5200 feet. There's a relatively new visitor center, which includes a big gift shop, a restaurant, and a nice balcony from which to enjoy the view.

The view is spectacular--you're looking into the Olympic Range at eye-level. What's particularly impressive about these mountains is their proximity to the ocean: remember, these nearly-10,000-foot peaks are only miles away from the Pacific. Enjoy the meadows, which stretch out towards the mountains, and are flower-filled in summer time.

There are trails here, too, including the 1.5-mile Hurricane Hill Trail, an easy paved path that might allow you to get away from some of crowds. And it may be crowded--Port Angeles is the major town on the northern edge of the Peninsula, and Hurricane is a major destination in the park. Arrive early to beat the pack, or consider heading up on a day that isn't so great at sea level. The weather is unpredictable EVERYWHERE in this park, and especially so on the beaches and in the mountains. Watching the clouds and rain move can be part of the fun, plus clouds at sea level doesn't necessarily mean clouds at Hurricane. Check the closed-circuit TV at the Visitor Center (just outside of town on the road up to the Ridge) to see what things are like up top. We arrived at Hurricane mid-day in late June, but found it pretty empty: the clouds had kept folks away.

It's national park lodging, so you're paying extra for location--but what a location! Right in the middle of the ocean strip that is the western piece of Olympic National Park, Kalaloch is smack on the bluff that overlooks the beach. The bluff cabins are comfortable, more spacious than you might expect, and also overlook Kalaloch Creek as it flows into the Pacific. We housed our family of five and my sister-in-law's family of four in one of the larger cabins (no. 6). Recently renovated, with nice pine walls and tile floor, it slept eight comfortably: two bedrooms (each with a queen), another queen in the open room between the bedrooms, and a queen-size futon in the living room. We added a rollaway and enjoyed 2 nights of real family togetherness. The kitchen was small but functional, and we cooked several meals there (the kitchen is fully equipped for eight). A nice four-person booth sits in the kitchen, with two large picture windows that let you look over the Pacific as you sip your morning coffee (which is provided).

We spent 2 nights here, using it as a base for exploring the western and northern sides of the park. There's a wide variety of room types here, plus a small general store, a gift shop, and a restaurant (which we didn't experience). We thought the place and the price (about $300/night with tax) were worth it, and the sunsets were wonderful.

You'll do some driving if you share our plan: the northern park destinations of Lake Crescent, Port Angeles, and Hurricane Ridge are a good day's expedition from here. And don't be surprised to see more tree stumps than you've viewed in a lifetime. As US 101 winds north and east through the private property between the ocean strip of Olympic and its more central, rugged, and forested core, it won't escape you that this is timber country. It makes you very grateful that large pieces of this rich and varied peninsula were indeed protected.

Right outside Mount Rainier National Park--and in this case, that means only 200 yards--is this pleasant collection of cabins, each adorned with colorful flower boxes. Our crew spent 2 nights here in the fairly large, clean, and comfortable Garden Cabins that slept the five of us well, albeit in one room. The queen-size bed was indeed snuggly, as advertised, and covered with a colorful quilt. The bathroom is small (Manhattan apartment small), but that seems like a small thing when you're in the mountains. Your host, Sandy, is gracious and kind and provides a roaring campfire every night. She's provided each cabin with a notebook full of park information that's really helpful. I thought $125/night was a good deal. (If there's two of you here sans children, try the Mountain Cabins instead.)

The cabins included a kitchenette, coffee, and a small table. We cooked breakfast there but ate down the road at Copper Creek Inn both nights. In the mornings we were up and into the park in no time at all. Kautz Creek is about 5 miles from the Nisqually Entrance to the Park--and thus 5.1 miles from your cabin--and looking north up the creek gives you a view of the mountain (if it's out that day). That was really helpful on our last morning, when a quick check showed that the clouds had finally lifted, and we thus raced the 30 minutes up to Paradise to see what was completely hidden the day before.

State Route 706 (the highway through Ashford and into Mt. Rainier) seemed to be what a park in the mountains ought to feel like: narrow, forested, and with all local businesses, not chains. Sandy's Lodge fits right in. If (and I hope that becomes "when") I return to Rainier, I'll stay here.

This comfortable, friendly, and excellent restaurant is nearly the perfect mountain inn. Located in the woods of Highway 706, 2 miles west of the Nisqually Entrance to Mt. Rainier, the structure dates from the 1920s. The all-wood interior and cedar-lined walls still retain that classic feel. There are 12 tables or so, and even during the late hours at which we dined (after 9pm on both nights), we weren't alone.

We stumbled onto this place after arriving late at Nisqually. The first place that was recommended had closed, and we walked in here just because they were the only ones still serving. The menu was varied, hearty, and interesting: chowders, stews, chili, grilled trout, steaks, chicken, and a variety of interesting salads. The servers were friendly and engaging and really seem to enjoy taking care of us and our children, and everyone wanted to go back for a second night.

I had the hearty meat and three bean chili, along with the Copper Creek Cobb Salad, the first night. Both were great and a good way to finish a day of hiking and traveling. The next evening, I had the seafood chowder, which comes with a great loaf of homemade bread. Washington wines and beers are featured (my wife decided to start a beer bottle collection while looking at the assortment here), but there's also a nice selection of others. I'm glad I was talked into ordering the blackberry pie a la mode (and so is my wife, who swore she didn't want dessert).

In addition, there's a neat gift shop with items you might not find other places. It has the feel of a great place to come for breakfast, too, but we weren't able to work that in. I'd certainly eat here again any time of day.

The last stop on our swing through Washington, we arrived at Stone Creek Lodge near Nisqually Entrance near dusk. That left just a day to explore this large park, which can't possibly do justice to this beautiful area. Most of the driving is on (paved) mountain or near-mountain roads, so don't let the distances fool you into thinking you can get everywhere with ease. Plus, this place is best experienced by getting out of the parking lots and visitor centers, and into the meadows, mountainsides, and trails.

Paradise, the aptly named subalpine valley on the south side, is a 35-minute drive from Nisqually Entrance. Here, you'll find the soon-to-be-replaced Jackson Visitor Center, slated to be torn down partially because its round concrete structure doesn't fit with the 'feel' of the park and the rest of its architecture. Since Rainier is only about two hours from Seattle, this place can fill up fast on a nice day, so arrive early, park your car, and get going.

The meadows here are gorgeous. Late June was too early for the blanket of wildflowers that arrives later, but there was still plenty to see. A spiderweb of trails head up the mountainside in all directions. Many here are paved, but they can still be steep--and you're a mile high. Check with the helpful (but busy) ranger's desk just inside the visitor center for trail suggestions.

The trail to Nisqually Glacier is a good one--easy, little elevation change, and with many of the features that make this park so attractive: wildflowers, mountainside, glacial valleys, and yes, the glacier. You'll probably encounter lots of deer as well. The skies were pretty gray, and without the sun, it's cold here in the summertime. Air temperature was about 45 degrees, so dress in layers to allow you to adjust for the day and your temperature after hiking.

Unfortunately, we left without seeing the mountain that day. (The following morning was a different story, though. A quick way to gauge the weather is to drive 5 miles past Nisqually to Kautz Creek, and look north: if it's clear, you'll see Rainier's summit from there.) There's other neat sites along the road to Paradise: Christine and Narada Falls plus Ricksecker Point west of Paradise, and the gorgeous drive along Stevens Canyon as you leave headed east.

This takes you toward Ohanapecosh and the SE corner. At Stevens Canyon Entrance is the Grove of the Patriarchs, a spectacular 1.5-mile trail along the Ohanapecosh River. The crown jewels of this easy walk are the thousand-year-old cedars and Douglas firs on a small island accessed by footbridge. This place, along with Hoh in Olympic National Park, inspired real feelings of reverence in me, and helped me picture what the Northwest must have been like 300 years ago.

You hear lots about the crowds at Rainier. We were there on the weekend preceding July 4, but didn't find them bad at all. Don't let that stop you from seeing this magnificent place.

A little-known member of the Cascade Range before May 1980, Mount St. Helens is only one of nearly a dozen major volcanoes stretched between northern California and southern British Columbia. Although it's been a quarter century since its eruption changed the landscape here permanently, the effects are unmistakably visible. It can be a haul to get here: the Castle Rock exit off I-5 is closer to Portland than Seattle, and the volcano itself is another 90 minutes east.

There's a string of visitor centers along the way. We stopped first at the one at Silver Lake, operated by the State Park System. For those over 16, there's a $3 fee per center, but a $6 monument pass gets you in here and at the two others mentioned below (both run by the Forest Service). At Silver Lake, there's several half-hour movies about volcanism in general and the risk of the Cascade Range volcanoes (something I'd never considered), plus a large exhibit on the timeline of the eruption. It's a good place, but if you're pressed for time, skip both this and the next one at Coldwater Lake and head straight to the end of the road at Johnston Ridge Observatory.

Named for the scientist who lost his life near here as the mountain rolled over him, this facility sits just 5 miles from the crater. You look straight south into the bowl left behind by the eruption, and during our visit, could easily see the lava bridge being slowly built as it oozed out, accompanied by venting. (The bridge collapsed the next day.) There are wide vistas over the valley where you can see the channels cut by the gigantic mudslides, the bare trunks of thousands of large trees knocked flat in all directions by the explosion, and the generally moon-like surrounding landscape. Twenty-five years later, some growth is returning, but you'll never mistake it for any other mountainside.

My brother-in-law said we'd be glad we went, and were we ever. Both of our families found this place a highlight equal to anything we saw on our Alaskan cruise and the experiences in Olympic and Mount Rainier. DO NOT skip the presentation in the visitor center--to say anymore would be to undercut your experience.

There's an average cafeteria here, with burgers, hot dogs, and chicken strips, but all I remember is sitting on the balcony overlooking the mountain during lunch. This place gives you some idea of why volcanologists worry about Seattle and Portland, sitting as they do in the shadows of Hood and Rainier. Coming here cut a day off of our time at Mount Rainier, but none of us regretted it.