In Bolton's Green & Pleasant Land

Bolton is a charming town in the North of England and part of the greater Manchester boundary, and its situation besides the West Pennine moors make it an ideal spot for country walks or moorland hikes.

In 1251 Henry the third granted its market charter, to this day it is the best of the traditional open markets in the north.
Flemish weavers fleeing the Huguenot persecutions settled in the town in 1337, and its damp climate was ideal for wool thus the town developed into a major center of woolen trade.
Following the industrial revolution cotton spinning became the main industry and textiles from Bolton were top quality. Today its cotton mills are silent; many have been transformed into upscale condos or parceled off into small businesses.

Bolton fared badly in the civil war; a legacy of those days still stands at the corner of church gate.
The seventh Earl of Derby was beheaded at the market cross {he supported the royalists}. Ye Olde Man & Scythe, Bolton’s oldest pub faces the cross and was the Earls final stop, he spent his last hours there awaiting execution.

Shopping is a pleasure; browsing outdoors among its Victorian buildings or undercover in its unique market hall, {opened in 1855} and one of the nicest aspects of Bolton is the scenic view of the moors, wherever you are in its center the rugged countryside is minutes away by car or bus.

Don’t miss the Textile museum; it demonstrates early textile machinery and examples of Crompton’s Spinning Mule and Ark wrights’ spinning frame; two Lancashire men who changed the face of the textile industry.

Outside of Bolton, the Trafford center in Manchester is minutes away as is old Trafford for those who wish to take in a Man U game.
Bolton also has a premier football team Bolton Wanderers {they are doing well at the moment}

And as to it famous people they are to name a few.

Robert Shaw {Actor/Jaws} Sir Ian McKl ellen, {Actor/ Lord of the rings}
Bill Naughton. {Author/Alfie the family way}
Nat Lofthouse {Football great}
Lord Lever {Soap magnate}
Joseph Foster {Reebok founder}
Gary & Phil Neville {ManU players} And most important of all it people are the friendliest in the country. I am proud of this town of my birth it will surprise and delight any visitor.

Quick Tips:

Start your exploration in Victoria square, the museum, markets, shops and pubs are all within walking distance.
In the summer the square is alive with activity, various entertainers and special exhibitions, annual events such as the busker’s ball and Victorian fair are very popular.

Tourist attractions are sign posted from the town center.
In some areas around the back of Crompton place shopping center you will still find stone flagged sidewalks and cobbled alleys.

Check out the detail sculptures beneath the town clock if you look carefully you will see amongst other things an African boy holding a basket of cotton, a reminder of Bolton’s textile past.

The impressive town hall opened in 1873, a magnificent building both inside and out. Two stone lion’s guard the main entrance { dignitaries only} local stone was quarried for its facade, as long as I can remember local people have set their watches by its clock.

The interior houses the main tourist office, friendly staff are very knowledgeable and you can pick up maps, souvenirs, and good advice.

Do peek in and take a look at the sumptuous Albert Hall. The old hall was destroyed by fire in the 80s thankfully they were able to save most of the inner building and the new Albert and festival halls are a credit to the planners.

Behind the town hall lies what I consider one of the nicest aspects of the center the Le Mans Crescent and its striking regency buildings.
These were formerly the civic offices and it is here you will find the museum, art gallery and library {with free Internet access}.

Across the street from the museum is the Octagon theater, it is a great place for lunch and you can view its theater in the round, perhaps return in the evening and take in a top class show for a reasonable price.

Behind Le Mans Crescent you will find the traditional open market; there are many bargains to be found.
There is also an indoor part to the market plus a fish, meat and produce section, the market is unchanged since I was a child and that was a long time ago!
Market days are Tue, Thur, Sat. On Sundays there are " Garage" type sales locals call them "car boots" you might find treasures in other peoples cast-offs.

Best Way To Get Around:

There is a direct train from Manchester airport which runs every 15-20 min.
Bolton lies around 15 miles from manchester and the local bus services Manchester center on a frequent basis.

A car would be the ideal way to access the moors and country pubs but there is local transport running around every 30 minutes.

In the town center, there are pay and display parking areas and from my experience the "Wardens" are very vigilant and the fines for violation are on the spot.
The parking lots are small and you will see some very creative parking.

Bolton’s center is a great place for walking; when I visit, I usually walk the 20-minute trek into town although I have taken the bus in rainy weather. Fares vary and they will give change, if you have the correct amount; just drop it into the slot beside the driver.

This hotel and spa is simply splendid. we spent only one night here for a family function and our suite accommodation was a gift.
We have visited this village many times and the site is a popular spot with locals for Sunday meals and browsing the unique shops.

There are regular weekend attractions- art craft and antique fairs and special events throughout the year.

The once derelict historic farm {owned by my ancestors} have been refurbished, the old cow barn is now a superb restaurant with beamed ceilings and huge open fireplace.
Cobblestone walkways leading in and around the village maintain the 18th century atmosphere. The old farm kitchen is home to the village jewelers; the flower shop was once a workers cottage, as was the bake house, pub and gallery.

Our ground floor suite overlooked the fountain courtyard in a terraced cottage style building.
All accommodations look out onto scenic vistas. The hotels tranquil atmosphere is due to its location on the edge of the Pennine moorland. All village staff dress in 18th century clothing, it is truly a unique experience.

Accommodations range from standard to executive. All rooms have coffee and tea making facilities, iron/ board, satellite TV. Other amenities are; indoor pool and thermal spa and gym.

Our suite comprised three good-sized rooms. The sitting room was homey and furnished in the cottage style spotlessly clean and welcoming. Breakfast is included in the room rate, which can vary from ninety – one hundred and twenty pounds per night. Breakfast is " full English" and hearty.

The carriages restaurant serves up local cuisine, and a range of dishes including vegetarian.
For a good pub lunch the steakhouse is the place to go and it is reputed to have the best steak around.

Throughout the year the hotel offers good value package deals.
Trafford shopping center in Manchester is a short train ride away and for Manchester United Fans old Trafford is handy.
The local premier football club Bolton Wanderers is even closer.
For hikers many trails and country pubs abound.

Hall,i th’ wood once the home of wealthy merchants was gifted to Bolton by Lord Leverhulme in 1902.
Before Lord leverhulme could live in it {1889} he spent a fortune on restoration. The hall had been inhabited for four hundred years from the early 16th- 19th century.
It was originally built as a half-timbered hall in 1483- I love the facades black and white timbers and my childhood memories are of playing tag around this house.

At one time, the house was divided into private residences. Its famous tenant Samuel Crompton invented the spinning mule which revolutionized the textile industry.
Most of the world’s cotton was spun on Sam’s mule yet he died in Poverty, as he didn’t patent It.

The interior is a delight. This is definitely a hands on place. You can dress in Tudor costumes, and actually touch the pots and pans, open doors, sit on chairs.
Fine 17th- and early 18th-century furniture is well placed throughout the dwelling; some of the rooms have superb oak paneling and ornate molded plaster ceilings. One of the bedrooms showcases a tester bed with canopy that dates from 1627.
The rope base would have needed to be tightened periodically hence the saying " Sleep tight."

The tour starts in the great hall and little has changed here since 1570’s this was the original living room.
A huge stone fireplace dominates one wall and holds a collection of cooking implements. The long black refectory table dates around 1670 Lord Leverhulme donated most of the furniture.

The kitchen is one of the oldest parts of the house; it is furnished in the Lancashire style with huge Iron grate. Upon the table are numerous Lancashire recipes and cooking pots.
In a corner stands a ducking stool the horror of recaltrant gossips plus a spinning wheel. Along side are the dairy and a stone cheese press valued at 3 shilling in the household books.

Three rooms are devoted to Samuel Crompton. On display are personal objects photo’s and his hand made violin {He was an accomplished musician and was paid for playing}
Room 8 is the room where the invention took place. Samuel felt Hargreaves spinning Jenny could be improved upon as threads broke frequently.
Despite Sam’s secret work, machine wreckers who were concerned for their livelihoods began wrecking the mechanized aids. Samuel dismantled his mule and hid it in the attic. When all was well he reassembled it and mill owners saw potential for mass usage.
Samuel died in 1859 and is buried in Bolton Parish churchyard.

All in all there are ten interesting rooms in this museum. This building is one of the last surviving examples of a Tudor wooden frame house in Lancashire. Admission. Two pounds adults, one pound over 60 or student. Closed Mon & Tues except Bank holiday Mondays.

From childhood, this museum has been my favorite place.
Its interior is filled with lovely oak doorways plus a grand marble stairway. A few hours are needed to fully appreciate all exhibits. There is no admission charge and it is open weekdays 10- 5pm

The basement aquarium opened in 1941 holds a vast amount of different aquatic life, it is said to be the oldest aquarium in Britain and a great place to entertain children on rainy days.

There is an extensive Egyptology collection on the first floor from " The Lady Of Takhennes" mummy case {c700BC} to limestone Stela and other funary objects from the Nile Delta area.

The heart of the collection however is its ancient textiles.

Bolton was once an important cotton-spinning town.
Raw cotton was purchased from the U.S. and India. The civil war blockade and Gandhi’s campaigns in India caused severe hardship to the people of Bolton and so Cotton was obtained from Merchants in Alexandria.

The museums first curator {1883} began the collection. He undertook a scientific study of Egyptian textiles in Great Britain; his son who became curator after his father’s death carried on his work. They examined thousands of textiles, local industrialists contributed funds and the textile collection grew.
The collection includes woven cloth in Linen, silk, and wool. It ranges from elaborate embroidery to scraps of linen dating to 5.000 BC through to the Christian period of the 4th- 13th AD

The local history collection is my favorite, albeit nostalgic. This collection ranges from Postcards, toys old photographs and mock-ups of coal pickers. Weavers clogs, shawls and everyday items are in surprisingly fine shape.
Pride of place is the only surviving example of Samuel Crompton’s spinning mule, which revolutionized the cotton industry and made the mill owners very wealthy.

The museum has a small zoology collection encompassing British birds and mammals. I didn’t visit that area on this visit but I remember it being interesting with good mock ups.

The art gallery, is another wonderful area. Many traveling exhibitions are held here. Its permanent collection showcases mainly British artists.
There is a special collection of the works of the Bolton artist Thomas Moran{1837-1926} he immigrated to America and became known for wonderful landscapes. One of his best {in my opinion} is his " Nearing Camp Evening On The Upper Colorado River" it is breathtaking and rich in color.

Not to boast, but I once had a picture exhibited on these walls! {Along with 300 other schoolchildren} We represented our schools on the occasion of the coronation and my exhibit was oil depicting the Golden Coach and horses.
Alas, you won’t find it there today it is sitting here on my wall.

On the first floor you will also find the library and free Internet access, there is also a small gift shop. Its location in the town center is ideal.

This is a walk we have done many times and a tradition on our trips to Bolton. We usually walk from Rivington to Belmont but walking to the Pike is challenge enough for most people

Few areas can surpass the natural beauty of the west pennine moors; England’s finest countryside is well-represented ranging from rugged hills, tranquil wooded valleys and outstanding scenery.

{1} We usually start our walk at the great house barn. There is ample parking, toilets, craft shop, and tearoom. Ensure your back is facing the entrance and turn right. Walk around the side of the building and cross the road, you will see a signpost to Rivington Hall Barn. Continue up to the top of the path, and then take the path around the left side of the barn.

{2} Behind the hall turn left up a path near the cottage, go through the gate and walk alongside the fence overlooking the Clough. Stay on the track going around the top of the Clough. You will see some steps {wooden} on your left and a path that ascend the steep hillside. Walk up that path crossing over the lane to the pigeon tower at the top of the terraced gardens.

{3} Turn right along the track at the top of the gardens, walk on for about 400m then turn left up the path toward the Pike. You won’t miss the tower and will keep it in view as you climb. For the final climb you must walk up almost a hundred stone steps that lead to the towers base. Now take a deep breath and enjoy magnificent views from all four corners of the summit

{4} Retrace your steps back down to the car park. This walk is around 3 miles and should take around two hours. We usually continue on across Rivington moor to Belmont for a pub lunch, it adds a further 3 miles to the walk but the scenery is awesome.

Points of interest: Rivington Hall. This Georgian building erected in 1780 is reputed to stand upon the site of an earlier hall of Saxon heritage.

Rivington Pike
Once the site of a warning beacon that was in use in the 12th century The Pike tower {1733} was used as a refuge for grouse shooting parties during bad weather. At Easter the pike is usually packed with picnickers and hikers and the popular Easter Saturday fell race is run from Horwich, my nephew has won first place three times.

Winter Hill
Identified by its myriad of masts is the highest point of the moor rising to 1496 ft above sea level. We usually pass by the communication buildings and can attest this stretch of the moor is one of the wettest. Thus, wear waterproof footwear even in summer.

Following local government boundary changes in 1974 Bolton was “moved” from Lancashire and made part of Greater Manchester, but any Boltonian will tell you that official or not Bolton is and always was in the Red Rose county, referring of course to the White Rose of Yorkshire and the Red of Lancashire following the 15th century war of the Roses.

Lancashire is a beautiful county bounded by the river Mersey in the south, {Liverpool & docks are a bus ride away} In the West by the Irish sea, {Brash flashy Blackpool is worth a peek} with its own Eiffel Tower- nearby Lytham- St -Anne’s is filled with charm and makes a great escape from the Blackpools’noise} In the East by the wild and evocative Pennine chain, and in the North the rugged mountains of Wordsworth’s Lake district. Each district has its own distinctive character but in the main Lancashire countryside is largely unchanged since medieval times.

In East Lancashire spellbinding Pendle hill is well known for the witch trials of the 1600’s and is also the place George Fox founder of the Quakers had a vision, which led to that religious movement. Coniston is the counties highest ground at 2,633ft also the place were Malcom Campbell died while attempting to break the water speed record on his boat the bluebird. The view from Rivington weaves its spells on visitors, walker’s meander along its paths enjoying stunning landscapes.

The Bolton of my childhood was a busy cotton town filled with tall smoking chimneys, dark mills and row upon row of terraced mill workers homes {similar to those in the British soap Coronation St}. Coal fires burned in every hearth; smoke belched continuously from the mills completely obscuring the view of the moorland. Today the chimneys and mills are gone; the magical moors are blooming and as green as they were prior to the industrial revolution.

Although I have lived in Canada for too many years to count Bolton and Lancashire are very dear to me. Fortunately I have been able to make frequent visits and have seen its landscapes transform over the years. Bolton has certainly lived up to its motto “Overcome all difficulties” despite its image of being a grimy industrial town it is today a prosperous thriving place with fine buildings.

Bolton has led the way in its education, arts, and is known for its good humored citizens hence the nickname of Bolton people as “Trotters”- to trot was, in times past, to banter, to tease. I can certainly vouch for its people I am one of them.