Pre-Christmas in Portugal

The Algarve region is vast and varied, stretching all the way across southern Portugal. The Moorish influence of days gone by is evident everywhere you go. Old castles are abundant and activities revolving around history and culture are everywhere. From San Vicente and it's impressive lighthouse, the most southwest point in continental Europe and nearby Sagres, nautical home to Henry the Navigator, to the fortress town of Faro, to the Rio Guardiano, natural Portuguese/Spanish border, the Algarve gives you such varied tastes to cater to every desire. Shopping for regional handcrafted items should not be missed. Head north from Sagres to Aljezur, stopping at Arrifana, perhaps the finest beach in all of Portugal. Dropping steeply from the bluffs to the white sand beach, you emerge to find a long stretch of beach bordered by high cliffs. Beyond the beach the waves crash against the craggy outcropping rocks. Aljezur boasts the oldest castle ruins in The Algarve, small but well-preserved with a great view of the area. The seaport of Albufeira presents a colorful, modern port city and perhaps the best seafood restaurants in the entire country. Don't miss the narrow street of San Sebastian before venturing into Spain.

Quick Tips:

Faro is the regional capital and boasts a modern, growing international airport. It doesn't take long to get to anywhere in the Algarve from there, but you want to tailor your accommodations to the type of activities that suit your fancy. Just west of Faro you have Quintera, home of a multitude of fine golf courses. The area is plush and green, but the resorts here offer little in the way of activities on-site. There are nice beaches on the point so families will not miss out if dad wants to play golf. The area has a wide variety of cuisine options and shopping, both budget and more exclusive. Albufeira boasts more nightlife and a faster pace than Quintera. Albufeira is a suitable base to explore the coastal areas as well as the colorful mountain towns. Faro is your best bet for the eastern coastal towns and the Spanish countryside. I especially enjoyed Catholic Mass at the San Sebastian Church. To the east of Faro nature lovers and bird watchers will enjoy the Rio Formosa Reserve, near Cacela. The mountain town Silves has a multitude of cultural icons, the regional archaeological museum and the most impressive of all the castles.

Best Way To Get Around:

When visiting The Algarve renting a car is necessary if you want to get away from your resort to enjoy the variety of the region. Auto rental rates are extremely low and most resorts have a direct tie-in with one company that gives even lower rates to guests. So one option is to take a taxi or regional bus to your resort, renting your car once you arrive at the resort. But there is a trade-off. Gasoline prices in Portugal are extremely high, around per gallon. That's the bad news. The good news is the wide availability of fuel-efficient economy cars. Most cars are manual shift but you can rent automatics for a significantly higher price. There are several tour companies offering everything from city and regional tours to specialized itineraries. One attractive alternative is a long day trip to Gibraltar, with a nice stop in Seville. The usual schedule has you leaving the Algarve early in the morning, a late morning stop for shopping, sight-seeing and lunch in Seville, then on to Gibraltar for five hours to enjoy this bastion of British influence guarding the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea. Have a pale ale for me!

Located within the Quinta do Lago resort complex, this resort is set in a 1,600-acre pine woodland bordered by the Atlantic Ocean and the Ria Formosa tidal inlet. The 36-hole golf course here is one of the finest in all of Europe. The well-equipped clubhouse features indoor and outdoor pools, whirlpool, solarium, squash courts, game room, snooker parlor and gymnasium. Other amenities include a very good restaurant, spacious lounge with occasional live entertainment and a fully-staffed salon. Spa services are available and a masseuse will come to your two-bedroom, two-floor villa at very reasonable prices. This Interval International Five-Star resort features 24-hour security to the gated community.

The grounds are manicured and well-kept, the staff is one of the finest I have encountered in the region and the villas are spacious, with all modern appliances and fully-equipped kitchens. There is an isolated area poolside for ladies that desire to remove the tops of their bathing suits. The resort general manager is British, with the rest of the staff being local nationals. Each Tuesday the manager hosts a cocktail reception. During my stay the reception honored staff receiving recognition for years of service. The number of 10, 15 and 20-year employees caught my attention, bringing me to ask the average tenure of the entire staff, amazingly over 10 years!

Your dollar goes far in Portugal, a member of the European Union. The Escudo is tied to the Euro in the transition to the common currency and the strength of the dollar is at one of the highest levels in almost ten years. Not being a golfer, I was disappointed in the lack of variety of on-site programs, a staple at most European destination resorts. The Algarve boasts temperatures in the 60''s in December, but this sun bum never wore shorts or sandals on this trip. The coastal winds are constant, making the indoor heated pool a valuable respite after a long day on your feet.

The entire Algarve region hosts a month-long celebration of song, dance, theater and celebration. Many of the towns and cities stage various events, orchestrated to avoid duplication, conflict and overlap. The regional tourism authority publishes a detailed schedule with complete descriptions of all events. Don't miss driving through the smaller towns, along the main roads, brightly decorated with holiday lights arching above over the roadway. The best events are local choirs singing their favorite songs in churches, community halls and town squares.

Having a reputation as the finest beach in all of Portugal, this Atlantic Ocean beach is accessed by descending down a steep paved road to the small parking area. Adequate parking is also available at the top of the cliffs above the beach. Nestled between two protruding points, this beach stretches over 1/2 mile. The white sands emerge from the base of the rocky cliffs, sloping down over 200 feet to the shoreline. The waves roll in and the surf surges against the cliffs framing the beach, completing the natural experience for the senses. Although I visited in the winter I can imagine the summer sun covering sun-worshipping beachgoers and their lounge chairs, and water rats frolicking in the surf.

As history has shown us, in centuries past Portugal was the world leader in maritime exploration. The father of modern navigation, Prince Henry, left his legacy all along the southwestern and eastern shores of the Atlantic. The highlight of my travels was the Fortress at Sagres, a fully restored monument that served as the nexus of Portugal's glory days of world exploration. This gem of Portugal's network of national historical sites and monuments sits on a prominent peninsula jutting out into the Atlantic, just a few miles from San Vicente, the southwestern-most point of the European continent. Entering the fortress through the massive gated walls, you walk into a large open field featuring a large land compass best seen from above the redoubts. The fortress features a cafeteria, small museum and art gallery of rotating temporary exhibits of local artisans housed in the main building. The original chapel, restored and still an active place of worship, sits to the far side of the grounds and gravel paved pathways give access to the entire perimeter of the peninsula.

Just up the coast on a local road you come upon the San Vicente lighthouse. San Vicente is the most-southwestern point on the continent and the view over the walls to view the power of the sea as it violently crashes into the high cliffs is not to be missed. The wind blows with great force here, coming in off of the Atlantic Ocean. The rugged coastline here provides many fine photographic venues. There is no admission here and local vendors giving good deals on wool sweaters made in the area can always be found.

Other lesser-known maritime gems are found all along the southern Algarve coast and can bring additional pleasure to your days

During the off-season this trip is by van, taking 6-8 people. I would have rather had the comfort of a full-size tour bus, complete with reclining seats and individual climate controls.

The hardest part of the trip was getting up to ready for the VERY early pickup time of 5:30 am!!! Since I was the first passenger, I had my pick of seats and chose the middle seat, having the most legroom and the added 'comfort' of the side of the vehicle to give my body support as I wanted to sleep during the early morning ride to Seville.

We arrived in Seville in the late morning. An almost two hour stop gave ample time for sight-seeing and a delicious lunch of the local Catalan cuisine, complete with a tasty Sangria. The architecture in Seville is mostly the traditional Baroque style, majestic with sharp lines of sight and whitewashed exterior walls.

Back into the van for the final leg of the journey to Gibraltar. Even though I enjoyed a good lunch, I was able to stay awake for the long drive to the coast.

I have seen pictures of the Rock of Gibraltar, but there is no substitute for being there. As you approach from afar, the Rock begins to come into view, growing with each passing kilometer. I was reminded of my first trip to Mt. Rushmore and the excitement of that first sighting after rounding the bend. This was no different. In the blink of an eye you leave Hispania and are suddenly transplanted into the British Empire.

The flavor of Gibraltar reminded me so much of Berlin before The Wall came down. A very international, cosmopolitan flavor; an island isolated by it's borders.

We had five hours here to enjoy this 'outpost' in whatever fashion we desired. Of course, the favorite activity of visitors seems to be shopping. Lots and lots of shopping. But because I have always had such a fascination with The Rock, I attempted to photograph it from every conceivable angle! I think this is the first time I have shot one entire roll of film on one feature or landmark!

But I did get my shopping in, adding to my stamp collection, which was lacking in the stamps from this remote outpost. After taking more photographs and mailing postcards to the four corners of the world, I snuck in a couple more pale ales and a great fish dinner before trudging back to the van for the LONG ride home. Needless to say, I was asleep before we even re-entered Spain and barely remember waking up for a bathroom break in the darkness of the early winter night.

The trip FINALLY around 11:00 pm (the joy of being picked up first was now into the disappointment of being dropped last). Exhausted, yet extremely pleased and satisfied, I gave Eduardo a handsome tip. He was a great driver and guide, but then, that is another journal story all together!