I walked for four hours starting at about 9 a.m. The area was not crowded, jazz music filled the streets and the sun was shining, so I got to be outdoors and experience the French Quarter in its morning glory. The disgusting smells sometimes churned my stomach, but as soon as I was away from the "infested" area, it was fine. I walked up and down each street, looking at the wrough-iron balconies, unique homes and private gardens. I learned from locals that the French built the Quarter apartments to face inside gardens. This was to protect their privacy. There is the more residential section of the Quarter, which I explored, but the more lively section with the bars, restaurants, museums, shops and shows, is definitely full of more action. Whatever your preference, you will find it in New Orleans. I also followed my nose to the Mississippi River, Jackson Square (the exact center of the Quarter), a few cafes, shops and bar for a strawberry daiquiri. You will encounter a lot of drunk people, even in the morning, but for the most part, people are civil to one another. The shopkeepers are very friendly and prominently display their southern charm. I was fortunate to have an intelligent and informative cabbie who told me alot about the area as he drove me from my hotel to the Quarter. That helped me understand what I was seeing and gave me a lot of valuable background information. (Try Elk's Taxi, as I took them both ways and had very informative people both times.) I also made it past Preservation Hall - the Birthplace of Jazz. That was quite an experience. The place is so small inside - barely fits 25 people. There are also a lof of street performers, so that keeps it interesting, as well.
by Christina A. Parsons on February 1, 2001
French Quarter
New Orleans, Louisiana